schardein

I like the idea. I posted a long time ago, my idea of mounting a factory door pocket on the rear cab carpet panel, to make a handy place to store smaller items. While I didn't actually do it, that could be another option for the pockets you are showing. I"m not sure about the attaching method you mention? The factory pockets I am familiar with are held on by screws through the door panel from the back. They feature a large washer and I'm fairly certain they use a torx bit rather than a Phillips screwdriver, but I could double check that tomorrow.

When I lived in Virginia, I went to the county dump (which is free for residents). They have a dump bin specifically for wheels and tires. Found a set of 4 steelie wheels for 76-86 Jeep CJs. They had signs posted for no dumpster diving, but that didn't stop me. When I was on active duty and stationed at MCAS Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii, there was a steel wheel painted black that was used to prop open the gate to the motor pool. One day I glanced at it, and recognized the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern and large center hole as a Jeep CJ wheel. Sure enough, turned it over and it had the stamped info on the back, made in Canada in '84. Made me wonder how long it had been there. Still in Hawaii, there was a road called Kapaa Quarry road. There was an area along that road that had some off road trails, also used for dumping trash by the locals, and sometimes used for paintball games. While four wheeling one day, I found a complete M416 trailer. The bed floor was completely rusted out, so I unbolted the bolts (they were finger loose), flipped the bed off, and hooked it to my 67 CJ5 (with pintle hook). Towed it onto base and home. Disassembled it, replaced a rusted crossmember, had it sandblasted, painted it, and put a 3/4" plywood floor on it. That was around 2003, still have it to this day. Perhaps the best was turning onto Kapaa Quarry road one day, and seeing a 76-86 Jeep CJ7 body laying in the middle of the road. A complete tub- seats, roll bar, steering column, instruments, tail lights, etc. I continued on my way to an appointment, then was back an hour later. The seats were gone and it had been pushed to the side of the road. Yes, I pulled a few parts, LOL. The M416 after sandblasting and painting. 2nd pic is after adding NOS fenders, custom stainless steel splash panels, M923 tail lights, and CJ style wheels and tires.

Factory RHD models mounted the alternator high on the right hand side of the engine. Factory RHD 1991-2001, I've never seen a Renix RHD. These photos are just mockups with the RHD alternator mount, I haven't actually ran this setup. This is on a 1991 XJ engine that was converted to a YJ setup by swamping the water pump and removing the offset mechanical fan bracket. Also this engine has the 99+ horseshoe intake manifold and matching PS bracket.

My first thought was you did not bench bleed the master. But I see your last comment, that you did. Finding air in it when you bench bled it again makes me wonder if the line connection at the master was letting air in. Yes, you would think that you would see a fluid leak if that was the case. I haven't done this swap myself, but I seem to recall that the master cylinder uses bubble flares rather than traditional double flares. Do you know if that is the case?

Here is a link to an eBay listing with some good info. It’s easier to post this than write it all again. If you live near a self service junkyard, you should be able to find the late model replacement, although you may have to be patient for one to show up in the yard. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234189152380?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bpFa1QANQb2&sssrc=2051273&ssuid=bpFa1QANQb2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Did you try jiggling the key tumbler after the key was removed? I've seen some old steering columns that were worn, to the point that when the key was switched off, the ignition switch (the actual switch on top of the column) would still be in the "on" position and drain the battery dead- even though the key was "thought" to be in the off position. A similar situation could cause the "key-in" switch in the column to remain on.

Good to hear someone had the same experience. It's been a long time since I messed with this one, I think I searched for a pinout, but can't remember if I ever found one. I probably have notes on it somewhere.

Are you referring to this one? Does it work for all functions?

I generally have these buzzers available. Currently, I have one blue buzzer. I ask $20 + shipping for them. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234544224522?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bpFa1QANQb2&sssrc=2380676&ssuid=bpFa1QANQb2&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I have two black buzzers, and ask $15 + shipping for them. Tested and work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/334147526703?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bpFa1QANQb2&sssrc=2380676&ssuid=bpFa1QANQb2&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I also have an XJ Wagoneer chime, 56001347. I checked my notes, and it works for the seatbelt warning function, but not the others. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234833513360?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bpFa1QANQb2&sssrc=2380676&ssuid=bpFa1QANQb2&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Here is a link to the Chevy 14101255, if you are interested in checking out how they sound. Not compatible with Jeeps. https://www.ebay.com/itm/334264102999?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bpFa1QANQb2&sssrc=2380676&ssuid=bpFa1QANQb2&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I have quite a bit of experience with buzzer/chime modules. Regular Cherokees (XJ/MJ) were available with either the blue or black warning buzzers. They are easy to bench test with a 12v power supply, or small jumper wires attached to a battery. The XJ Wagoneers did use a blue chime module with an extra power lead coming off of it that plugs into one of the power ports in the fuse box. These are often cited as an upgrade to a more pleasant sounding chime. I have a couple of them, and they don't work correctly in my 91 XJ or 91 MJ. Maybe they are faulty? All my research shows they are wired the same. Chevrolet/GM products have a bunch of different buzzers/chime modules over the years. There is one particular chime module (14101255) that is very popular with owners of 88-98 Chevy trucks. Those years use a warning module with a "constant tone". Think- "EEEEEEEEEE". They can be replaced with 14101255 for a pleasant chime tone- "ding--ding--ding". They are a direct swap. I've tried to adapt a 14101255 to the XJ/MJ. The functions are wired so differently that they can't be interchanged. The ZJs used a chime module that looks like a 14101255 but instead of being brown, they are a burgundy/purple color. They are often listed as applicable to XJs in many Jeep parts vendors websites. I got one for testing. It did not work in the XJ/MJ. Or, I should say it worked for one function, they key-in ignition warning I think, but that was it. No seat belt warning, no headlight warning. Some Dodge Dakotas use a yellow buzzer that looks just like the Jeep black/blue buzzers. It is wired completely different and doesn't interchange. Below is a screenshot of the electrical manual info on the buzzer. Also my own diagram. When testing the seat belt warning, apply 12 volts to only the far right, upper terminal as shown in the picture. Then apply a ground to the far left, upper terminal. The buzzer will sound for as long as you maintain the connection. Then, without removing the ground connection to the far left terminal, slide it over so it touches the second terminal at the same time. This starts the timer, and the buzzer will shut off in about 5-10 seconds. To test the key-in and headlight warning functions, ground the lower right terminal. Touch power to the far left terminal (blue box) and the headlight warning buzzer will sound. Touch the next terminal with ground, the key-in buzzer will sound.

A couple years ago I started my XJ and heard a slight “tinging” noise. Upon investigation, part of the rubber between the inner and outer shell of the HB was sticking out, hitting the mechanical engine fan. Replaced the HB and all was well.

I did this swap yesterday. Replaced the original wiper motor and linkage assembly in my 1991 XJ with the entire assembly from a 2001 XJ. I did some semi-scientific testing. I made a video of the XJ with the engine running, wipers on high, spraying water on the windshield from a garden hose. Then I viewed the video and counted the wiper sweeps in a one minute period- stock was 40 sweeps. I made an inline adapter for the swap. I used an extra motor end for the 91 motor, and an extra body harness end from a 2001. Unfortunately I didn't get a picture of the harness. But I do have some pics to share. One is the pinout for the body side connector for the 91 wiper connection. Keep in mind this is the body side, reverse the image for the motor side (it's an easy mistake to make, ask me how I know). The next image is the body side connector pinout for the 2001 wiper connection. The spliced on ends are for a 91ish-99 year wiper motor (different project). I was surprised to discover my 91 XJ had the round plug wiper connection. I guess 91 was a changeover year. After the swap I made another video under the same conditions. Engine running, wipers on high, water spraying the windshield. I got 52 sweeps in one minute. Both tests were with an otherwise stock circuit, no extra added grounds. Watching the videos, I also discovered my passenger side wiper was hitting the windshield molding at the bottom of its travel (1991 assembly). I had to adjust the wiper arm to sit higher on the windshield to keep it off the molding during operation. And this was with relatively new bushings in the linkage- I replaced them a few years ago. The 2001 linkage had the same issue. In fact, there was a significant variation in how far down the pass side wiper went during operation. I didn't replace the bushings in the 2001 assembly. That may be a test project for the future.

My 91 XJ and 91 MJ use one key for both ignition and door locks. Well, one key each, not one for both vehicles. As long as the 91 style key switch will fit the earlier column, I don't see why it couldn't be done.

Your description is hard to follow. The key can't be stuck in park. Do you mean the key won't turn to unlock the column? If that is the case, you say you broke the steering wheel free? How? There is a large pin that engages the lock plate inside the column. If you broke that to get the steering wheel to turn, that takes a lot of strength, may have caused other damage inside the column. If the key won't turn to the run position, the column shifter won't move out of park. So it sounds like the key not turning is the root of the problem. The buzzing sound, are you referring to the key in warning buzzer? If so, it's also a seatbelt warning buzzer. That box is located next to the fuse box, just to the driver side of it. If it is black, it has seatbelt/key in ignition warning functions. If it is blue, it also has the headlights on with key off warning function. How was the vehicle towed? If it was flat towed, and they left the key on so the front wheels would be unlocked to follow the prime mover, maybe they removed the buzzer box?? Not sure why they would, but possible. Picture shows the warning buzzer location. It's the blue box to the left of the fuse box. Could be blue or black.

Tilt columns were an option from the factory. Some things to consider: Options in the column itself were regular or delay wipers (the actual switches in the column are different, difficult to replace, and expensive) If you don't have delay wipers, and the new column has them, all you need to do it add the inline delay wiper control box to make it work. Cruise control was another option, but that is just a different turn signal lever with the cruise switch built into it. But if you have it, and the new column doesn't, adding the new lever is easy enough, but the column must be partially disassembled to run the wiring down inside the column. The keys changed in around 91. I'm not well versed on the interchangeability of the key tumblers, some columns I have looked at use a bolt retainer, some use a tab on the tumbler itself for the retainer. It's best to match the year range of your Jeep so the key style is the same, then you ignition tumbler should interchange. If you have a column shift auto, you are stuck looking at MJs as a source. Very few XJs were made with column shift autos. But if you have a manual, or console shift auto, you can source a tilt column from an XJ, which significantly widens your search. An auto console shift XJ column could be used in a manual trans application, but it won't have the little key release lever near the ignition tumbler. May not be important unless you want it to look and be as close to factory as possible. If you decide to source one from a different Chevy application, I would look closely before purchasing. I've done a lot of "column shipping" in junkyards over the years, and while they are all Saginaw steering columns, there are differences in several areas that may or may not be an issue- for example, overall length, length from the tilt joint to the steering wheel mount, the steering wheel mount design, the firewall mount itself (some are made/welded on, some are bolt on and easily removed), and the steering shaft connection (some are splined, some are Double D).

Thanks for the PSA. I grab every 89-90 TCU that I find. Is it worth grabbing any year now? Can you explain what the common failure is? Any way to test a TCU other than plug it in and run it? I don't own a Renix Jeep, so have to sell the TCU "as is".

I probably wouldn't either. But any console can be black with SEM!

In 2016, I installed this generic cup holder from a custom van in the center console lid in my XJ. This was a spare console lid from the junkyard, and I did it mostly as an experiment. I know it won't be everyones "cup of tea", but I liked it enough that I kept it. It can fit any fast food/gas station cup I know of.

In 2014 I found a factory cup holder, with a broken lower tab, which is very common. I installed it with the simple mod in the picture. I've taken 900+ mile road trips with two water bottles in it, with no issues. EDIT- when I installed the cup holder, I also replaced the upper console trim piece with one from a 95 XJ, that had the two upper mounting slots already in it. All I had to do was locate and drill the hole for the support stud.

Dang, I just saw one in the junkyard the other day and left it. It was in perfect shape, which is rare, usually they are broken by someone trying to remove them who doesn't know how. I have one in my XJ, it does ok. There are two slots in the console upper trim piece (not that noticeable), and also a slot in the console itself, which is kind of noticeable.

I had a similar thing on my 78 Scottsdale, said "Chevy" on them, or had the Bowtie emblem? This was back around 1984-85, want to say I got them at Walmart.

Right on!

Aw man. The last nut/bezel I had came from an XJ at the Albuquerque U-Pull. If I had known at the time, I could have grabbed the bracket as well!

I don't have one for sale, but maybe a pic will help? Is this what you're looking for?

Yep, L and R different. Sold this set a few years ago.