schardein

Man, what a bummer. A green ATO fuse usually means it's a 30amp fuse. The factory installed fuse would be a 25amp. This appears to be a classic example of someone experiencing a blown fuse, and installing a higher amperage rated fuse as an attempted fix. Which in turn causes bigger problems. Both my 91 MJ and 91 XJ had mildy overheated blower switch connectors. I replaced them without having to fix anything else. But I think it most cases, there is something else going on, as you are finding out. I have limited experience troubleshooting blower motor issues, but it seems like checking everything is a good idea- The fusebox (for blown/incorrect fuse), the blower switch and connector, the blower resistor and connector, and the fan itself and it's wire and connector. And do Cruiser's tip on adding a dedicated ground for the motor. The horn, rear window defogger, and blower motor are some the highest amp draw accessories, but the blower motor gets the most use by a long shot.

I understand the addiction to horsepower, I've done my fair share of hot rodding in the past. These days, I'm very happy to pick the engine that makes the horsepower I want and swap it in, in basically stock form. I bought a 2004 LM7 iron block 5.3 back in 2016 for my CJ7. Other than a aggressive speed density tune (which the tuner said requires 91 octane fuel) and a set of headers, it's stock. Probably makes 300-330hp and puts a smile on my face every time I drive it. I'm not afraid of freeing the horses every once in a while, and it's held up fine. If it ever quits, I'll grab another 5.3 out of the junkyard and slap it in over a weekend. Once the swap is sorted out, replacing the engine itself is a cake walk.

Here are some pictures of the turn signal light bulb socket.

Man that's great. I can only imagine the headaches to get to this point. I get it though, I bought my current house based almost exclusively on the shop building, and the impact berm for shooting. I've seriously considered a second building intended only for parking space, but dealing with people to get the work done has held me back. I'd be interested to hear your experience if you decide/have time to share.

Might be helpful to add your location. Shipping is going to expensive because of the size, and proper packing will be paramount since the cowl piece is relatively fragile. And are you looking for perfect, or usable with a few cracks? I think I still have a red one, from a 91.

Thanks for commenting, I was considering getting some of the Landau. Would you say it's a semi-gloss? Or more gloss than flat? I think satin is intended to be between gloss and flat, but I think it falls much closer to flat.

I take it you mean the 242 Selectrac, and not the 228? JK For the pre 1997, do you have a preference for the style (2nd pic)? I have a few different available. I don't think I have any shift gates right now, have to look. I don't have any 97+ bezels.

How does $20 shipped sound? I don't know how well the black paint will match the factory black trim. it comes out pretty "flat", instead of glossy. If the factory panels are glossy, the "flat" screw covers might be noticeable? SEM has three blacks- Landau black, Gloss black, and Satin black. I have the Satin black. Recently repainted this steering column in my CJ.

I don't know if this will help, or if it applies to this thread, but I'll mention it. There is a part, I don't know what it is officially called, that plugs into a cavity in the fuse box. Once plugged in, it forms another place to plug in a circuit breaker or fuse. It has a wire coming out, that when the circuit breaker/fuse is inserted, the wire then becomes a power source. The first picture, the arrow points to the cavity in your fuse box. Second picture is the "fuse box adapter plug" (?) Third picture is the fuse box in my 1991 Cherokee. You can see the circuit breaker and the red wire, that is the output of that circuit. In my XJ, that red wire is hot all the time and it performs two functions- one, it provides power to a connector under the carpet near the driver seat female end seatbelt for the power seat option (even though my XJ does not have power seats). Second, it goes to the rear quarter panel (behind the panel where the spare tire is mounted) and provides constant 12+ power for the 7 way trailer connector for the heavy duty trailer option. The adapter plug isn't present in my 1991 Comanche. I don't know if it was ever used in MJs. But it would be an option to add a 12+ power wire (hot all the time).

If you aren’t familiar with the SEM paint for vinyl and plastics, it’s super high-quality stuff.

The 3rd bag is Cordovan (burgundy, maroon) like the seat belt plug at bottom. I don’t think I have any black right now. But black would be the easiest to match with paint. I’ve got some SEM satin black on hand, I could paint a couple for you if you wanted.

Where are you located? Haha, just kidding. Not really. GRAB EVERYTHING. Will the owner sell them complete, as is?

Seems we have worked through most of the questions here. I'll throw out some stuff for good measure. As several stated, the white relay is for the horn. The blue box is the warning buzzer (key in ignition, seat belt, and headlamps). The blue box (#1076) was an upgrade to the black box (#1077), which did not have the headlamp warning function. I noticed you have under dash courtesy lights, but no bulb in them. The headlamp delay relay (Sentry system module) is a silver box, part # ending in 636 (made in the USA during the Renix years). Later models used a box # ending in 324, completely interchangeable. Accessory wires that are plugged into the fuse box from the factory would use a colored connector that is keyed to the specific power port location it is intended to go in. These are often referred to as ATO fuse box power port connectors and terminals (the fuse box uses ATO type fuses). If you look closely at the last picture, you can see ATO power port wires with red (factory) and green (I added that one) connectors in the fuse box of my 91 XJ. I have ATO fuse box power port terminals and connectors if you are looking for some.

I am wondering about the picture with the lenses out. Why is it shown like this? Will they be removable? That would make it very easy to paint the rest of the housing to color match the truck. Also, an individual cracked lens could be replaced? Option for an orange lens for European application?

I guess I haven't seen those clips. Where are they inside the door? That would be a cool find. I did look at the parts manual, the only match is they are apparently used on the wiring harness of some full size Jeep Grand Wagoneers. # 34202362.

It shows on the decal how the jack handle is intended to be stored. You have the clip, it just needs to be placed on the bracket. That clip is often missing!

Wow!

No, electronic speedo cluster.

That is an electronic speedometer for the HO years. It wouldn't work for an 87-90.

That speedometer looks odd. It doesn't look like the standard 85mph speedo usually found in the red cluster. It also doesn't look like the police package 120mph speedometer in my picture above. It also doesn't look like a kilometers per hour speedometer. It looks like it goes to 110mph. I've never seen that style before. It is possibly an overlay for mph over a kph speedometer? 110mph is about right for 180kph. If so, is the "mileage" in km? That would be about 181,179 miles?

Blue faced gauges were still an option in the HO years.

Yep

I have a few.

I wonder how many of them had the 120mph speedometer?