75sv1

I'm on Rusty's adjustable short arms. No drop bracket. I got them used. I have ProComp front springs and Rough Country rear springs. I have a set of new JKS front adjustable control arms that should be going in this weekend. The rear springs were put in new a few years back. I had 6+ when new. They have settled to a 4.5-5.0 lift. I plan to put in OME 3.5 rear springs and a Boomerang shackle to get to 4.5 rear lift. I might go with another front spring. Yeah, that's about it. Still, some variance. I want to try the OME shocks in the rear vs Bilsteins. I do this with Bilsteins on my MB 240D. HD in the front and Sports in the rear. That is to help with the weight on the diesel engine.

I have the Bilstein 1500's on my XJ, for probably 2 years. Highways use and country roads. A touch stiff, but could be the RC springs. Also, its Jeep. I do have Old Man Emu rear springs and shocks to install. They are in the same price range. Since I haven't used them, I can't say either way. I believe them to be the same quality, but a bit softer. Haven't heard any complaints on them either. I am on a 4.5 lift.

HESCO makes one. I did buy one. Hornbrod I think had one on his MJ, and Go Jeep I think has one. I remember they had to put in a flow restrictor. So, I would not go that route. The WJ water pump will not fit. Or I should say the bolt pattern is a bit different. I think one extra bolt hole. One of the other bolt hole is off pattern. Also, I think it is reverse rotation. Try this and remove the fan shroud. I know others say you need it. But if it is interfering with the fan rotation, it might impede air flow. I had some issues and removed mine. The temps dropped. Also, then I would look at the motor mounts. If they are shot, then is the fan dragging on the shroud. Edit: did some web surfing. Motorad makes Hi-Flow Thermostats. PN 2000-195. Saw it on Rock Auto.

I'd also question the new water pump. I did have a '98 Neon that would all of the sudden over heat. I bought it used, and knw it had over heating issues. The water pump was old though. When I took it out, the impellor slipped off. Can't say that is your problem. Maybe try a MOPAR water pump.

Yeah, I got the two mixed up. This is where I was going with it. People have a lot of problems with the closed system. If you are loosing coolant, try replacing the radiator cap. Its a good idea to replace them every 3-5 years. I'd check what radiator AZJeff installed. Someone from out there installed a Mishimoto a few years back, when they first came out. Brought his temps down. He was running a factory HD Radiator before that.

Auto Trans? Open or Closed coolant system? Changed the pressure cap? If Auto trans, think about running a trans cooler. Also, Mr. Gasket has a large opening thermostat. Its a copy of the Robert Shaw. Also, Hessco radius the inside of the thermostat housing. You'll see where the 90 degrees comes to a point. Just round that out. Don't know if that helps much or not. I don't deal with the heat you are. OK, read you sig. Auto and 92 so closed system.

There was a write up on the MAD/XJ site about doing the reverse, ie late style flasher on an earlier XJ. You might find some info if you do a search. The site was abandoned some years back though.

Yes, Older fender with the older front header panel are correct. The newer washer bottle would probably 'fit', ie space wise. But the cutout in the inner fender panel is not there for the older models. I have not really looked much at that. Not sure what I'll do when I get there.

I started in on this. From my recollections, the four nuts that hold on the front header are in different locations. I think I was/am going to bend up some clips for the top two. Then relocate the holes for the bottom two. I didn't get to wiring. The headlights should be the same. The side markers I haven't looked at. Also, there will be missing material on the upper corners. The '97+ being round, the earlier being a chamfer. I planned to fiberglass then up and shape to fit.

Sort of the reason I own an '81 MB 240D 4 spd. If XJ and WJ, I'd add a ZJ to the list. They have the same basic mechanicals as the XJ. From what I see they go for less money. A neighbor picked one up with minor rust for $500. A few minor issues. I just looked at an '00 XJ with 215K, a few rust spots. Asking price $4,200. This was a dealer. No, I did not buy it.

I buy some of the worm drive ones from an Import Auto Parts place. Real hole in the wall. They are much better. I remember the sides being bent up, so it doesn't cut into the hose. I think European made.

I think there are some swaps with the Ford manual trans. I did take out the Renix wiring. I do have '95 wiring waiting to go in. I would keep the Renix wiring.

I tried a product called Ozium or such. It was in a 98 Dodge Neon. I was finding little cigarette in back of the dash. Sort of like a bug bomb. Spray it in. Close the doors and go away for at least 15 minutes. You might try it a few times. I think I bought mine at a True Value. The other posts on cleaning will help too.

And the numbers add to the scene. 1'69' and 9. 'Porsche, there is no substitute.' To bad they aren't U-Boat Commander quality.

My tow are there is usually plenty of space in back of what ever I am driving. Don't have to try and take off my front bumper to make the exit. Also, don't cut over three to five lanes as you missed your exit. Also, learn that there are other people in line when lanes narrow down for constructions zones. Don't speed up to the front, then cut in front of Semis. It slows the traffic flow down. I was so proud of WV last year. I was in the pre- construction zone, hanging to the side of a Semi, so people wouldn't cut in front. Everybody behaved and traffic flowed.