75sv1

As for rust, under the driver seat and above the muffler. Also, check the rear brake line. They rust. Will not be fun if it fails when driving. '98s are a good year. The rocker look good from the pics. Usually the first to go.

I'd be couscous on what a bank will loan you. It might put your budget out of whack. I remember I was approved for about $110K. I bought my house for $65K. I was making $16/hour, no or little OT. Also, watch that you are making a bunch of OT currently. How long will that last? How stable is the housing market, were you are at? That could be neighborhood to neighborhood. Still, get preapproved. It works in your favor. Also, see if there are house buying classes in your area. In my area, at least it used to be, customary to put down $500 as a promise note. If you backed out of the deal, it was the sellers $$.

'5. The listing has been reduced by $13k, or @16%, in only 90 days on the market. I tried to look up the assessed value of the home, but was only able to find public records on the tax assessment on the land. It was noted as a "delinquent account" despite the property tax on the land only being $118. Those two pieces of info indicate a distress sale to me and why it is being sold "as is", i.e. they don't have any money. ' Interesting point, and has a bearing on PMI. PMI is based on the value of the house, not the loan (or at least that is what worked for me). So, if the house is valued at $80 or higher, then you might be out of PMI already. Something to look into. There are also taxes and some other stuff that might get rolled into the loan.

OK, you win. I use two wallets. One for everyday. Approaches 'George' territory at time. The other is a money clip. I use it when I do go out. Some $$, one CC, Carry Permit (if I'm carring), Car Insurance maybe a few other things.

As mentioned PMI. I think it is a percentage of the loan each month. I would think about $75 a month for that house. Look into the 15 vs 30 year loans. I would say it would be a $100 difference on that amount. To check into first time buyer loans. Possibly better rates and usually less down. Check out several banks. They have different loan criteria. I'd say at least have $5000 to possibly $10,000 left in the bank when done. Check out laws as for vehicles being outside. You will probably want to work on your Jeeps. Different location and different neighbors can be a pain.

I believe the valve cover is a 93-95 Grand Cherokee. The newer valve cover grommets hand CCV stuff should work. I have done two of them. Installed one in a '98 XJ. The rear is a CCV, the other is a just an elbow if I remember correctly. You can use a latter CCV tube on the rear 97+. You would need to use the 97+ plus fitting in the intake manifold. The tube is larger. It might help your Blowby or oil getting into the air filter. Also, Cruiser's tip on modifying the tubes or shields in the valve cover. Also, check out FelPro's valve cover gasket. I think its $35 or so. In my experience, blowby can be a leak at the valve cover gasket. Also, the Chrysler gray (??) RTV has its fans.

'They're all there, inside an '86(?) Waggy, which IIRC is sitting on a Dana44, at Wesman Salvage in' I take it this is a FS, so the bolt pattern should be 6 on 5.5 (???). Also, Isuzu Rodeos have Dana 44 under them, but same deal 6 on 5.5. Also, don't the Rubicon Wranglers have Dana 44s?

I thought I read somewhere, that if you pull the tail cone off the 2WD, there will be the gear for the 4WD on the shaft. Then you could cut the shaft off at that point. You might look and see if this is true.

Components: Rusty's Adjustable UCA & LCA. Alloy USA upper ball joints. Mevotech THK Lower ball joints. Pro Comp 4.5 springs. Rusty's OTK Track Bar. Ruff Stuff 1 ton Chevy cross over steering. WJ knuckles, Timken Hub Bearings, . LP axel. 31" Master Craft tires. I do have wheel spacers to help the 15-8 Canyon rims to clear the WJ calipers. My sway bar is disconnected presently.

I have 1 ton Chevy cross over steering, WJ Big Brakes, Rusty's OTK Trac bar. Still Death Wobble. Didn't have it before this stuff. I do not have the steering stabilizer on it. I'll Tire PSI. I am at 4.5 lift, with Rusty's (I think) Adjustable control arms. I did have it aligned and at that time the tires were balanced. I think that is when it started. I did replace the motor mounts with Brown Dogs. It had ripped apart the stock motor mounts. Still, my question is raising to 4.5 lift, and 31 inch tires, would the alignment specs be different than stock? Also, it seems my steering gear box has loosened up. I replaced it about a year ago, and had about a 1/16 play. Now about 1/8 or more each side. I did get a Borgeson steering shaft, not installed yet.

In the top photo, the side with the hand goes to the driver's side. The stud side goes down, as to the trans cross member. It will fit into four of the 8 holes in that. The side of the cross member with round holes, goes to the driver's side. The elongated holes go to the passenger's side.

I just put a Mean Lemons on my AW4. The short side went to the driver's side.

Mine would be if the lifters are clattering or clicking. Then I'd run Marvel Mystery Oil, Berryman's Chem B-12 or Seafoam. Then again, a good diesel oil might do the trick. I have also tried a quart of trans fluid. I have tried the 5 minute Flush a long time ago. I would not use it, as it might be to aggressive, and cause bearing damage. As for the Pennzoil, Quaker State, Kendall and probably a few others, some of this info might be from the 80's. I heard stories where guys changed at 2K and their engines were clean. One guy posted some pictures on BITOG of an engine with over 200K using conventional oils. Looked clean, almost as clean as synthetics. Basically, any brand name oil will be good. Just some better than others. Also, other factors can cause problems. When I lived in Tulsa, OK, I was in an Auto Parts store. A guy came in with an oil pan. It was filled with what looked like grease. I mean the whole sump. He said the rest of the engine was filled with it. Me and the counter guy just shrugged. Looking back, either water or coolant was getting in there, or he might not have been running a thermostat.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/basic-lubrication-design/ Also, there are different certs for oils. I think CL-4 and CK-4 for diesel. I think CL-4 is the older cert. I would not try diesel oils in something newer. Probably 2000. Also, I would be hesitant on the last few years of the Cherokee with the Pre Cats. NO real direct info on this though. Metallurgy and roller cams might also influence the non use of ZPPD.

I pulled the link from MeanLemon's site. The main reason Zinc is being phase out is the new emissions controls, or cats. It clogs them up. Not much of a problem on older vehicles. A bit harder to figure out how the new additives do in our engines.