75sv1

https://hardcoreoffroadpa.com/

I have a Logan's bumper on the front of my XJ. Don't know how close or far the Op wants to go. http://www.logansmetal4x4.com/ There are a few others in PA. I'd have to search for another I was looking at.

Mine would be what terrain I'd be running. I am on 4.10 and 32's. I was on 31's. I do some driving in WV, so mountains. The 31's were good. I also did an exhaust upgrade. I do have a build going on with 3.73s. I am planning 30.5's for it.

The other is that the JK hubs have 32 spline. The Xj and WJ are 27. So a hub shaft change.

I did search for a possible stub shaft to make the WJ bolt in. I could not find dimensions on stub shaft. It would need to be 1/4 shorter than the XJ's from center of the U-joint hole to the flange.

I have done this swap on an XJ. WJ hubs to use WJ rims. Yes, the 1/4 spacer is still needed. I have run this setup about a year now.

Also, Mishimoto has a setup. I have the Dirtbound part. I have not bought the Spal fans yet. I did buy a Spal 10" fan that is 1100 CFM. It does not fit the Dirtbound frame. I'll be looking into putting 3 of them with out a frame down the line. They are thicker, so there might not be space to clear the A'C bracket pulley.

This thread should cover your questions. The Link to the NAXJA thread should help too. I'd expect about $1200-$1500 cost in parts.

Do you mean kits? Most I see are not complete. Check out Ironman 4X4 and possibly Stinky Fab. I have done two of them. Also, the cross over steering using Ruffstuff 1-ton Chevy kit. I did mine from scratch, though.

On these stocks, I had to repair flaws in the semi-inlets. The Mauser had a crack in it. I hogged it out and wrapped it up with surgical tubing. The type -77 has some issues with knots and such. The Type -38 doesn't have much of a recoil lug. Its a 'D' shaped tube on the original that a round post mates into. I made a block with a hole in it. I epoxied that in place. I think I used JB Weld on that. My inletting was great on these either. So, I used the bedding to fill some voids. If used right glassing can help with accuracy. I did try on the Mausers to use a mandrel to keep the action straigh

Of the glass bedding or the rifles? I don't have any pics handy. I have a Mauser and some Arisakas done.

Yes, wrong. Sorry, but also partially correct. You need the 00+ hub bearings. That provides the correct dimensional stack up of rotors, etc. You need the hub bearing spacer as you mentioned to keep the axle drive shaft U-joint in line with the pivot axis of the knuckle. You need two per side 1/4 thickness washers to space the caliper brackets if using the WJ rotor. Since you spaced the hub bearing out 1/4, the caliper needs spaced out 1/4. That does relie on the dimensional stack up of the parts though. I have used 07-08 Liberty or Dodge Nitro rotors. I had none to 1/8 spacers for those setup

I think you should be OK with a thick layer. JB Weld as an epoxy creates its own heat to cure. Or the process creates heat due to the chemical reaction. I do some glass bedding of gun stocks. Doesn't matter how thick the void to fill is. Some do use JB Weld for that too. I think I have once or twice too.

For an inexpensive solution, the Autopals are good at $50 a pair. They have twice the light as stock bulbs. Add in a relay harness and it doubles that. I am using Cibies though. Cibies, Bosch, Hella are quality, but $60-$70 each. I haven't tried the LEDs.

The height or with of them compared to earlier years. They are near the same height as the WJs. Yes, I did use '00 XJ hubs first. Then I did the front with WJ hub bearing units to use WJ rims. I'd look at Ironman 4X4 site. I think he states that some latter Wrangler hub units have a bit longer studs. Also, don't forget WJ ball joints and 1/4 width washer spacers for the caliper brackets.