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dasbulliwagen

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About dasbulliwagen

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    Asheboro, NC

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  1. dasbulliwagen

    rustiest MJ

    This is a very sad thread.
  2. In my opinion, as a professional mechanic, the ability to work on any vehicle depends entirely upon your skill level (Either learned or Natural) in the area and if you have the proper tools to even do the job. Many older vehicles are much simpler and thus the skills and tools to work on them are lower. I say this with one exception.... Carburators. Ive never had good luck tuning them properly. So the question is entirely subjective.
  3. I did this on my 87, but my donor was an 86. I swapped the box assy fine. The HVAC box has its own harness for controls. I swapped it complete with the control levers and all without even unhooking them. The box harness plugged right into the original dash harness no problem. My issues cam in the engine compartment. There was only a couple wires already there for the AC. There is a plug on the left inner fender for DEALER INSTALLED AC. Youll need to make the rest of what you need off of this connector. I used the downloadable 88 FSM wiring diagrams to build the wiring that I needed. It all worked fine after that. Good luck, keep us updated.
  4. They will lower with time and use, but like Pete said, you can put a load back there for a while to speed the process up a bit.
  5. Yeah.... thats not happening. Especially when I still have powertrain warranty. The 3.6 so far has been a really good engine, power wise and in ease of servicability (relatively speaking). We are starting to see them with 200,000 miles on with no issues, and they seem to take the occasional overheat very well. Had one in recently that got so hot it melted the lower intake manifold which caused vacuum leaks and poor running. There was no apparent warpage or head gasket issues after repair. Its just that in a big heavy Grand Cherokee it seems sluggish unless you put your foot in it. I think most of though has to do with programming, keeping the trans in as high a gear as possible for fuel milage, Though when that 8 speed kicks down, it will take off! But every little bit helps. I know the 16 and up models have at 10-20 horse more than the earlier ones. That lower intake may be a big part of it.
  6. I know there are a few WK2 people here. Ive stumbled upon a possible cheap power upgrade using a 2016 and up PUG (3.6L Pentastar upgrade) lower intake manifold. It is supposed to be bolt in to the regular Pentastar and have increased flow. Do any of you know if adding the upper intake as well would be worth it assuming any of you know anything about this? I know the upper would have to have an EGR blockoff, and have wires extended for different placement of throttle body and MAP. For those with experience, are there any other 3.6 power upgrades besides for the obvious ones like a tuner, cold air intake, supercharger or selling it and buying one with a Hemi? The lower intake is only $100 and Ive ordered one for a future upgrade. Thanks here's a couple links: https://www.200forums.com/forum/58-2015-2016-chrysler-200-uf-engine-technical-discussion/64052-higher-flowing-lower-intake.html https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1152734
  7. What happened to the old one. At 131,000 you shouldnt need to be replacing unless something catastrophic happened. The 2.5 is as good for high milage as the 4.0 is. As long as all your accessories and manifolds are ok, I beleive you can get a 2.5 from any Cherokee, YJ or TJ Wrangler or Dakota, swap all your manifolds and accessories over to the new engine and bolt it back in. Youd also have to swap the flywheel if you get one from a 91 or newer model as the tone wheel on the flywheel is different than the earlier models. If Ive given any bad info, I'm sure someone here will correct me.
  8. We sold a Rubicon version in my dealership last week. It has a grille mounted trail camera that can be activated and watched in the radio. It also has its own sprayer nozzle to clean the camera off if it gets dirty! With that and the soft open tailgate, bed lights, bed mounted 400 watt 120V plug in, and all the other little things, they are really trying to make people feel OK in spending $60,000!
  9. You want to see around 30 PSI or so on the low side and around 250 PSI or so on the high side. If you were seeing 20 PSI on the high side I don't think your system would be cooling. When I converted mine to 134a, I found it took MORE refrigerant that I thought it would to get to proper pressures. Maybe you just need to add more to the system and keep an eye on the presssures while doing it until you get a little more on the low side.
  10. I agree too, if youre going to do anything, don't leave it in primer. Spray it with some Rustoleum or similar for a topcoat until youre ready to do the whole truck. That will seal out any more moisture from getting to it again.
  11. My heavy smoking grandfather used to pay me to detail his Blazer. The amount of residue that came off those windows and everything else was ridiculous. As was said, work ALL surfaces with cleaner appropriate to that surface. You might even put the AC heat on recirculate on high and spray stuff through the HVAC ducting as well from under the passenger side dash. I had a customer once complaining of a smell in their AC vents. I pulled the blower motor and found that a huge Locust or giant grasshopper had somehow made it into the blower and was thus ground to a pulp when it got turned on. The whole interior smelled of dead bug smell like you get on the front of a car after its smeared a hundred of them on a summer night. I cleaned out as much as I could and then put it on recirc and sprayed a whole can of Lysol through the system. It helped out a lot, but the smell was still there. I'm sure it got better later after everything dried out good, but still. Just cover all your bases and you will eventually get improvement.
  12. My truck too was sitting neglected for 4 years before I got it, though the orig owner was good enough to it to fire it up on a regular basis, but it sat so long that it got worse and worse until he decided it wasnt worth him keeping it any longer. I found this group not long after and have been on here ever since (2008). I really appreciate all the work Pete and the guys put into keeping this place true to its original founding. Going to other forums for info is such a chore compared to this place. As was said, this place is one of a kind!
  13. I'm curious about the brushguard too, even though ive yet to install the hitch i bought from you last year!
  14. If using a pure Chevy trans, there may be an issue with the crank sensor mounting, not sure that it would even have a place for one or if it did, be in the right place. be sure to research that before buying one.
  15. I used a WJ booster and master but was having trouble getting the WJ style brake switch to work properly, so I cut off the WJ one and welded the original one in its place with a new brake switch. This also took care of the slight pedal height issue it had.
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