75sv1

Jeep 2, Japan 0. How's that for a World Cup.

I did have an issue with an SKF unit bearing. I thought it was the Shaefler unit. The tire puckered a bit. Both were purchased from NAPA.

I did have an issue with an SKF unit bearing. I thought it was the Shaefler unit. The tire puckered a bit. Both were purchased from NAPA.

Um, Star Wars New Hope. Blade Runner. Jaws. RUSH. Alien. Deer Hunter. Indiana Jones. The A Team.

For some reason, Ford Explores have their following. Also, Ford rangers and Chevy S-10s.

I have not done it myself. I have had the manifolds, and put them on a '95 head. I doubt they last long, a start leaking very soon.

The two piece cast manifolds are for the smaller exhaust ports of the 0331 heads. There is about 1/16 'wall' if used on earlier heads. Not much sealing area. I think Pace Setter and possibly Clifford has headers for the RENIX. I did use a RENIX, and have a Cliford (bolted on, but not used).

Haven't done it myself. I would coat the portion going into the ground with a tar sealant. I do have plenty of examples in WV of post just put into the ground. Also, you might coat the top of the post. Or put some type of cap on it. My mailbox post rotted away. Neighbor Daughter-in-Law hit it while moving. She was really upset about it. Replaced it with an aluminum post the neighbor had. Took some convincing to the DiL that it wasn't her fault.

What I did, is initially upgraded to a '91-95 HO VC. It allowed a larger hose. You also need to the 97+ fitting to the intake manifold. The 93-95 GC (Grand Cherokee) has the CCV fitting of the latter 97-up steel VCs. I did do the Cruiser 'upgrade' to them. The 91--95 HO VCs and the 93-95 GC VC have the aluminum inner towers. Another possibly 'solution' is to put on a 'breather' to the front hole of the VC. Thus the air filter box won't be sucking air and oil into the filter. Some use a hose to space the breather a bit from the VC. Also, you can use RTV in place of the VC gasket.

Heat won't damage anything in the area. Just get the bolt or nut to a dark red, if you can. Also, you can try and grind off the nut. Then spray with a rust buster.

I run two on my Chevy Avalanche. I run a Radiant and another, UMD ???. I do catch some oil. Maybe a teaspoon every 500 miles. I run about 10:1 compression, with 88 octane. If a higher compression, then possibly run a catch can. On the 4.0L, most run the catch can on the rear CCV tube. If oil in the air filter, then its either the rear CCV tube needs upgrade to 97+ or its blocked up with crude. On mine, I used the FlePro rubber gasket. Upgraded to a 93-95 CG valve cover.

'Currently someone found a GM EV1 and is in the process of restoring it with help from GM'. I think they found it in a parking garage in the Carolinas. Technically, GM leased the EV1's. So, GM took them back and probably crushed them. Not sure of the legal aspect of the one acquired. Probably since it was past 7 years, or such, sold as an abandoned vehicle. On the gearing and manual trans. Most of them 1st gear was just a bump gear. Just got you going. Sort of the save the clutch from people who didn't know how to shift a manual trans.

I think NOVAK has a complete kit. I think I bought some lower price kit. Then ended up having to buy other parts. The total price was not much difference. And that's not including shipping. I'd try and get a kit with KOYO or Nachi bearing. National, SKF and Timken would be a plus.

??? + Lindsey Buckingham. I'm listening to Elton John, Best of #2.

Yeah, such a good song. To have Stevie Nick and ??? as back up at that time is amazing.

Try unplugging the TCU. Then shift manually. It will not have kick down. You will need to slow down to down shift. I've always unplugged the TCU and left the fuses intact. If it doesn't work, then I'd say something mechanically wrong with the trans. Check the fluid with the engine not running. It should be up on the 'Z' bends. The start the engine. The fluid level should drop. See if it is down in the 'fill' range. If this doesn't happen, then probably the pump in the trans is not working.

There should be a fuse for the transmission. You can pull that. Then see if it shifts manually. If it does, then its electronics. Then you should check the ohms of the solenoids. There would be three of them. 13 ohms +/-3. There should be a plug up by the trans dipstick, to access the wires. The other is the speed sensor. Yours should have one. I haven't worked on the earlier autos. Should be a hall effect sensor. On or Off. You need an analog Volt meter with ohms. The connectors are also on the same wiring connection up by the trans dipstick. You need to turn the shaft of the transmission.

Part of College isn't what you learn, but to learn how to learn. Congrats. We had a Business degree doing engineering work. She moved on to Wall Street.

There's a Pinto Station wagon in a town near by. Yet, point taken. You don't see many 80s, 90s, 2000s vehicles around. Yet, XJs, TJs and old Pickups are still around. Used to be a few MB Diesels that ran around. Haven't seen them lately. I do own a '15 Volt. It was cheaper to but my Volt with less miles than a Chevy Cruze. The Volt sold for more.

How does the 'turn over' rate compare to luxury vehicles? The cost of electrics keep them out of 'normal' buyers reach. I do have a Chevy Volt. When I drive it to work and back, its about $20 a month. When using gas, its about $20 a week.

I don't think the '95 head is that much of an improvement over a 96+. The '96 plus will have holes for the dowel pin in the 96+ block. I'm the only one I know who has had issues with a '95 head interfering with those dowel pins. You did mention that you were going to port and polish the heads. I am not sure if you plan to go with larger valves? Upgrade the camshaft? Also, a 'bored' Throttle Body does help some.

I'd get some H4 Autopals as a replacement. Not sure on the cost presently. In my guestimation, the wiring harness doubles the light output. H4 headlights double that. If you want higher quality H4 headlights, Hella, Bosch and Daneil Sterns carries some from Japan.

I have used the Mevotech Blue bushings. I like them. They seem stiff like a polyurethane one. I have used the NAPA links. They are good. The last ones, I replaced the bushings with red polyurethane ones. I had both laying around. I was having issues with the front end lifting. Very weird. I was using ZJ links. I didn't have the top bushings in there. So, some sort of binding. I wasn't the only one to notice it.

There is one pictured in Hagerty's Magazine this month. Its owner is in TX. Also, they did an article on the XJ. How it changed the auto world.

I see some pristine ones around here. Yeah, prices can be high for those. They and mine have issues with the AFM lifters and the transmissions. The 6L80E is not cheap to rebuild.