Gradinen

Aah, I just used one of those pieces that puts two lines together, don't know the enlighs words but I guess you get it. So, I'll plug the buttom port. Imma read the thread. thanks.

Gonzo, I merely lead the breakline past the sensing valve towards the Tcross that feeds the rear. The power of the jet was bad even before I did it, if it matters. And the picture below, the right Pushrood is the one who sat in the car and the left one is the one I got with the new master cylinder. I might rebleed the old MC and put it back in to see if there's a difference. I didn't see it by eye but I'm kinda new to this so I might have missed something.

Hey, its me again.. I now turn to you wise members of the Forum. My Commanche is a 88 Laredo. When I started working on it, it had not been driven since 2006. The break lines to the rear was rusted through and snapped off so all the fluid had leaked from the resorvoir. I've renovated the drum breaks, put in a new line to the rear. Now the iffy part, the break pedal only takes near the buttom towards the floor. I get about 4-5 cm and when I turn the car on it goes all the way to the floor. 1. I've bled the breaks about 50 times. I found the specific bleeding manual for Commanche here on the forums and bled it 5-6 more times. 2. The weightsensevalve? at the rear was a rusty piece of junk, when i controlled it I thought the arm was very loose and suspected that the unit was perhaps what was faulty and holding air, I bypassed it. No change. 3. I've changed mastercylinder, benchbleed it and no difference. I read on one forum post that one guy had the same issue as me and he ajdusted the pushrod. What I noticed is the one I got with the mastercyldiner I ordered were 2,4x longer then my old one and had another fitting so I using the old pushrod. But I adjusted it to max and put the mc on again, forced it as I felt the rod was to long and the pedal got to 1/2 but now the breaks were on. (I was just testing in frustration) but when adjusting the rod more "correctly" from my limited experience, the pedal is once again at the floor as when i used my old one. I bought this https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=963825&cc=1181584&pt=1836&jsn=1386. By eye it looks like my old one, is this one wrong? :S 4. I checked the rear drums as I got a tip to make sure they are adjusted correctly. I adjusted them so hard so that I cannot remove the rear drums, just to make sure it wasn't that. Still same issue. Now I suspect the proportioning valve. As the small resorvoir has been empty for an unknown amount of years, I start to suspect the proportioningvalve might be broken. When I push down the pedal with a fron caliper open i get a hard jet of fluid. When i do the same to a rear caliper I only get a soft squirt that ejects barely 4-5 cm from the caliper. Could this issue be because of the valve? Sorry for the english, I'm scandinavian doing my best restoring this car to a drivable state.

Hello. I have the same issue as you have with my restoration project. I've bleed the breaks a hundred times and also according to the specific MJ break bleeding instructions but to no avail. I'm starting to suspect the same issue here. I get a powerful jet of fluid from the front calipers but a rather weak one from the rear ones. Yday I disconnected and bypassed the weightadjusterthing (Sorry, I'm swedish) I have the exact same thing happening to me though, the break pedal only takes at the very bottom. How did you adjust your pushrod? I've changed the master cylinder though as I had the same issue before, but I have no idea what the old owner did to this truck before me. Its last time in trafic was 2006.

Thanks! I sure will do! One more time. Hehe.

Update! I unplugged the TCU as many of you recomended, it was one 7.5 amp fuse in the fusebox and a 10 amp in the wire to the TCU. The car has been standing for about 18 years so I'll do some electrical contact spray in the connectors and whatnot. And try to meassure the TCU to see if it has volts. Thanks you all! This forum is amazing for new Jeepers like myself.

When I start in D it remains in 1. Now it starts to try to shift gear in about 40kmh but really doens't mannages. : /

Tried this today, there's no difference with or without the fuse.

Update. I've changed back to the old oil filter today, no change. I manually changed the Kick down to somewhere in the middle. Now the car looses power near 40 kmh, it rews down in rpm and it feels like it tries to find a new gear but it doesn't. When driving downslope I can get past it and its the same symptome. It only changes gear until I'm near 60 Kmh.

Its the latter, 1-2 3 D N R P

Here it is! I manually pulled the inside of the harness to the right to adjust it today, as I've seen videos where the self adjustment does way more then it does when I do it. What happened was that the car lost power near 60kmh and didn't shift.. I re adjusted it as it is now and it shifted again only at 60+ kmh.

Unfortunately no change, I checked the oil again today and no difference when in neutral.

Thanks, the younger generation (90s) are pretty much forced to speak english in every day life if you're in the right trade. Yes, its just a metal wire in a plastic sleeve. I can fix a picture tomorrow! Thanks.

Yes, I thought that was the issue at first. I rechecked everything this evening. I drove the car, made the trans warm and parked it on a level surface, I filled from about just at the minimum mark on the stick to about right in the middle. No change at all. Perhaps there's a slight more noticable "clunk" when I put it into drive.