Soft break pedal. What to do?!

[Gradinen]

Hey, its me again.. I now turn to you wise members of the Forum. 

My Commanche is a 88 Laredo. When I started working on it, it had not been driven since 2006. 
The break lines to the rear was rusted through and snapped off so all the fluid had leaked from the resorvoir. 

I've renovated the drum breaks, put in a new line to the rear. 
 

Now the iffy part, the break pedal only takes near the buttom towards the floor. I get about 4-5 cm and when I turn the car on it goes all the way to the floor. 

 

1. I've bled the breaks about 50 times. I found the specific bleeding manual for Commanche here on the forums and bled it 5-6 more times. 
2. The weightsensevalve? at the rear was a rusty piece of junk, when i controlled it I thought the arm was very loose and suspected that the unit was perhaps what was faulty and holding air, I bypassed it. No change. 

3. I've changed mastercylinder, benchbleed it and no difference. I read on one forum post that one guy had the same issue as me and he  ajdusted the pushrod. What I noticed is the one I got with the mastercyldiner I ordered were 2,4x longer then my old one and had another fitting so I using the old pushrod. But I adjusted it to max and put the mc on again, forced it as I felt the rod was to long and the pedal got to 1/2 but now the breaks were on. (I was just testing in frustration) but when adjusting the rod more "correctly" from my limited experience, the pedal is once again at the floor as when i used my old one. 
I bought this https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=963825&cc=1181584&pt=1836&jsn=1386. By eye it looks like my old one, is this one wrong? :S 
4. I checked the rear drums as I got a tip to make sure they are adjusted correctly. I adjusted them so hard so that I cannot remove the rear drums, just to make sure it wasn't that. Still same issue. 

 

Now I suspect the proportioning valve. As the small resorvoir has been empty for an unknown amount of years, I start to suspect the proportioningvalve might be broken. 

When I push down the pedal with a fron caliper open i get a hard jet of fluid. When i do the same to a rear caliper I only get a soft squirt that ejects barely 4-5 cm from the caliper.  Could this issue be because of the valve? 

Sorry for the english, I'm scandinavian doing my best restoring this car to a drivable state. 

 

[garyweb3]

Your English is perfect.

[GonzoTheGreat]

How did you bypass the load sensing valve?

 

 

Also, pictures of any of the parts in question would help a lot.

[Gradinen]

Gonzo, I merely lead the breakline past the sensing valve towards the Tcross that feeds the rear. 
The power of the jet was bad even before I did it, if it matters. 

And the picture below, the right Pushrood is the one who sat in the car and the left one is the one I got with the new master cylinder. 

I might rebleed the old MC and put it back in to see if there's a difference. I didn't see it by eye but I'm kinda new to this so I might have missed something. 

[GonzoTheGreat]

 

This thread has some useful, but slightly confusing information. Theres a specific way you need to eliminate the valve. You need to plug the distribution block bottom, front port, and make sure the front, front port (facing the front of the vehicle) runs to the T on the axle. Is this how yours is set up now?

 

Another option, is to get an XJ or YJ distribution block and use that, because they never had these valves, but I'm not sure how the used parts market is in Sweden.

 

Some guys on here prefer to eliminate the block, T in the front brakes directly to the master cylinder and run an adjustable proportioner to the rear.

 

If the valve is eliminated correctly, and youre still having problems, i think youre on the right track playing with the pushrod adjustment.