schardein

Many things could cause this, mostly electrical connections. A failing fuel pump might cause this, but usually they just quit, not go on and off. Did your other electrical accessories continue to work? I've seen a problem like this turn out to be the positive battery cable rubbing against a sharp metal edge on the frame causing it to momentarily short while driving, not a good thing! Lucky it didn't burn the whole rig down. Also seen similar issues using cheap replacement "clamp on" battery terminals. If you are using those, replace them right away with new cables. Also have seen similar issues from a battery cable that was corroded under the insulation, from using the cheap clamp on battery terminals that allow air and water to get under the insulation.

I may be stating the obvious, but here is how the original lights work- they are fed constant power from the battery (with a pink wire, according to a 1988 wiring schematic), and controlled (turned on or off) through the ground circuit. One ground (black with white stripe) is controlled through the door switches (opening the door) and dome light switch (turning the headlight switch knob). The last black wire is a direct ground used when manually turning the lights on at the light (moving the light lens). When experimenting with the wires, it's easy to be confused which ground is which because the doors are usually open (door switches are activated, lights are on). So both black wires have a ground when tested with a meter.

Normal aftermarket stereo wiring has the red wire as switched power to actually run the stereo. Usually connected so it is hot when the key is in ACC and RUN. The yellow wire is constant battery power to maintain the memory, like the clock and radio station presets. This would also explain the yellow wire in your fuse block. Once you confirm that is what the wires are for, I would try wiring them as I've shown in the pic.

Since you are replacing the connector (what the factory parts manual calls it), you might just get the complete oil filter adapter and replace the o-rings at the same time, as Cruiser suggests. The o-rings are a common failure point on the 4.0, and it's cheap insurance to replace them since you are in there. A quick look at the parts manual shows the SAE connector was used on the 2.5, 4.0, 5.2, and 5.9 Jeep engines in the 91-93 year range, so you have several sources to search for.

1JTMW6411JT002957 U PULL & PAY Albuquerque 24 April 2022

I just took a 30 second look at their website. Says the "head is complete and ready for installation". If you have to clean metal particles and gasket material from it, is it really ready?

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Here is what I have in gray and tan. Sorry, no blue. I also have some cordovan (maroon) somewhere.

I have these two originals in gray, and I think I have some more in the workshop. If you are interested in originals. How about $2 plus shipping for how ever many I can find?

Thanks for posting this. My mind is programmed to 24 hour time, so this is awesome.

Is the mirror physically loose on the mounting button, or is the view blurry from vibration? It may be the fact that it is aftermarket. My experience with aftermarket mirrors is they are made cheaper and the result is a blurry view from vibration, that an OEM mirror doesn't have, either from superior design or construction. I experienced this when replacing the factory half doors mirrors on YJ half doors from 1995 with the late TJ design 2003-2006. Bought aftermarket mirrors and they don't do well with vibration. My suggestion would be to visit a junkyard and look for a replacement OEM mirror that fits your needs/wants. Just make sure the mounting button is the same, or be prepared to get the button also and use it on your truck. Trick for getting a mirror mounting button off at the junkyard is to heat it with a disposable cigarette lighter until the glue loosens, then give it a twist, rather than a pull, with some pliers.

I scored this aftermarket aluminum radiator at the junkyard a few years back. Recently pulled it out and thought about using it. Tried threading a factory trans cooler fitting into it, and it doesn't fit. Does anyone what fittings go in these aftermarket radiators?

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I used to think the XJ was a great car for a new driver. They were fairly reliable, relatively inexpensive, easy to get parts for, easy to work on, made good power, more often than not were 4wd, and got decent fuel economy. But time moves on. I think most of the XJs these days have been through several owners and finding one in reliable driver condition is harder. Also, power and fuel economy numbers haven't necessarily aged well compared to more recent offerings. So, say I had a 16 yo old girl who just got her license. She really wants a Jeep Wrangler, but a newer one isn't in the budget, and while I think a TJ might be in the budget, I'm not sure a soft top vehicle is the best choice for a new driver. I think the novelty would wear off quick when the weather turned bad. I'm open to thoughts and suggestions.

I carry a Leatherman Wave on my trips to the junkyards. I attached the sheath to the shoulder straps of my Toolpak, so it's always within easy reach. But the Velcro that holds the sheath shut has worn out to the point that I thought it was only a matter of time before I lost the tool. I researched buying a replacement sheath and apparently it's a common complaint, and the replacement from Leatherman isn't even as good as the original. There is even someone making custom real leather replacements ($50!!), but it doesn't have anywhere to store the accessory bit holder. So I got a cheap snap kit off Amazon and that did the trick.

I like this. I usually carry my Dewalt driver on junkyard trips, with a Phillips bit in it. Also have a 1/4" socket adapter that I would carry in the factory holder at the bottom of the handle. But I've lost two socket adapters that way now, so no longer using it.

I've found these Harbor Freight dollys super handy for removing/re-installing/storing complete axle assemblies. It's a Harbor Freight 1000 lb capacity dolly. I just checked and they are $12.99, used to be able to get them for less than $10. I add some scrap wood to make a super handy axle dolly. Over the winter I did a lot suspension and axle work on my 83 CJ. Working by myself, I placed this dolly under the axle. Unbolted everything (driveshaft, brake hose, parking brake cables, locker cable, u-bolts, and lower shackle bolts). Then using a Harbor Freight 1.5 ton aluminum jack under each leaf spring, lowered the axle into the dolly (Jeep supported by the frame with jack stands). Then roll it out. Do the work, and roll it back in. I had the rear axle in and out at least 6 times as I finalized spring pad position, pinion angle, and shock mount locations. I also had to get creative to get a differential assembly out of the axle housing, and yes, I have a case spreader.

A story from back in the day- I put a large 4 core radiator in my 79 K5 Blazer in the fall. That winter, my heater never really got hot. It worked fine before the radiator replacement. I kept telling myself the larger radiator took longer to warm up, even though I should have known better. When spring finally came, I was thinking one afternoon, and went out and pulled the thermostat. It was stuck open. I could only shake my head after freezing all winter in the truck. Put a new thermostat in and all was well. Since then, I've had two thermostats stick open right out of the box. Now, I don't trust a new thermostat. It only takes a few minutes to fill a pot with water, stick a thermometer in it, and put the thermostat in. I test every new thermostat before it gets installed. I'd trust a used thermostat from a junkyard before I trust a new one.

I've seen some systems that use a check valve inline somewhere, so the system reacts faster when the button is pushed. I've also seen that check valve become stuck or plugged. Also, when I bought my Cherokee, the tips of the sprayer nozzles (that the washer hose pushes onto) were broken off the nozzles. So the hoses would just squirt water inside the cowl cavity. I had to get new spray nozzles.

When I added mine, I wish I had kept better notes. I ended up going to the junkyard and getting the harness pieces from a 91 XJ. Even then, it seems like I had to re-pin my headlight harness connector to get it to work. If you have access to the factory wiring diagram, just pay close attention as you wire it up and it should be fine. And like JYau said, while you are in there, check that headlight harness connector near the airbox. Mine was VERY corroded inside, to the point I ended up replacing some of the wires and terminals with ones from the junkyard XJ.

I can supply the Packard 56 female connectors in 12, 14-16, and 18 gauge sizes. These terminals are used in a few places, one being for the factory dash rocker switches like the fog light, cargo light, power/comfort transmission, etc. I can supply as many you may need. I also have the terminals that plug into the "power ports" in the fuse box, as well as the factory color-coded plastic connectors. I'm not sure if these terminals are used anywhere else on our MJs. Also, replacement connectors (with terminals, or with wiring pigtails) for the heater fan switch in the HVAC panel. I realize this is a very narrow range of what you are asking for, but thought I'd throw it out there nonetheless. Packard 56 female connectors: https://www.ebay.com/itm/334149514757 ATO fuse box power port terminals and connectors: https://www.ebay.com/itm/333919030216 Blower motor switch connector: https://www.ebay.com/itm/334092225131

I used to live in NoVA. Where do you go? Do you ever get to the Pick-a-Part in Fredericksburg or Stafford?

The headlamp bezel. The aftermarket, (1991 and up versions) that I have had did not fit well.

I'll give my 2 cents. I've used some aftermarket chrome headlight trim for the later years (90 and up?) that are one piece. They fit, but not well. Same for the front amber turn signal lenses. They fit, but not well. I'd rather get some good used originals, which is what I eventually did. Not sure on the earlier, multi-piece stuff, I've never used aftermarket for that. As for the upper and lower grill trim, they are getting harder to find in the junkyard. If I found them locally, they would be $3 a foot, plus tax, plus an environmental fee, plus fuel for a 3 hour round trip drive (my nearest junkyards), plus lunch, plus my time and work to find and pull the parts. That would be "my cost". Maybe use that to determine a basis for a fair offer. Of course condition must be factored in. All the seller can do is say yes or no. If you were to buy them online from ebay or an individual, there would be the shipping cost. They are light, but the size of the package might incur an extra charge because of its size. Plus you have to worry about them arriving safely. Being refunded by the post office for a damaged part is fine, but doesn't get you a new, hard to find part.