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drcomanche

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About drcomanche

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    Comanche Aficionado

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    Male
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    Lusby, MD

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  1. Lower hose was cold Not sure. Something is moving or else it wouldn't overflow the rad Nope Yes, its an open system I did pull it all apart since I was taking off the balancer and as soon as I removed that thermostat housing it let loose a bunch of coolant. Pump seemed fine, housing was fine, t stat was fine(but I'm replacing it anyway). Another thing I noticed after playing with the sensor, when unplugged, the gauge drops back to normal. When plugged in but the the key in acc position, it starts climbing, even though the engine isn't started. I
  2. If you still have trouble finding them and don't mind a non metallic plug, Caplugs has a variety of diameters in a couple different styles. Thats what I used on my interior.
  3. So recently, I just got the truck back to running condition. I started it and just did some general checks(this coming after taking apart pretty much everything but the block and head and replacing most) to make sure it was all functioning. I replaced pretty much everything in the cooling system with the exception of the pump, t stat, and housing because they had only seen 500 miles of use. So here's the symptoms as they occurred. Checked the coolant level from cap after cooldown and it erupted out of the radiator fill when the cap came off. I was just checking to see if it needed
  4. Just wanted to update this here for anyone who may have this problem later. I ended up just tracing the wires, disconnecting the firewall block(which I really didn't want to do), and checking connectivity to see where the break could be. Ended up finding these plugs that the wires ran through. I have no idea why they didn't just run the wires all the way there or what purpose this connector has, but its an inconvenience. Turned out the plugs inside were corroded a bit. Cleaned them up and greased them and now I have full power.
  5. Mine isn't a renix era harness, so no fusible links.
  6. I use the jcr one ton kit and it's pretty solid. The only downside is that you can tell it's a lower quality as the rubber boots are molded into the ends, so they aren't removable. For my money, next time I'm just buying the moog parts. Roughly the same cost but you can replace the boots if they ever split and they seem to be more solid. There are a few othe companies out there that offer a kit, but they look to be about the same as jcr. Make sure they are the right fit for tie rod and usage though. Why go heavier if you don't need to?
  7. Offhand, I can say I have checked all the fuses(and replaced them, just to be sure). Ground points at the underside of the dash, firewall, left, and right fenders are all good. There isn't really any connection points I know of besides the fuse block itself at the firewall and the pdc, both of which have no corrosion. Tracing the harness is my last resort, but I was hoping someone knew what the pinout wire was for the dome fuse so I could start there. As it stands, I have no clue which wire runs to it unless I split the block at the firewall, which I would also like to avoid.
  8. I know its been discussed but i havent found my exact problem here.. So, in trying to get the interior squared away, I was playing around with the radio and couldn't get it to work. Did a quick test on power, the constant is there, but the full power(red) wire had nothing. I looked at the fuse block and saw no popped fuses for any of them. The only thing I could pinpoint was that the dome lamp fuse, with integrates with the radio harness, was receiving no power at all in any keyed position(despite the manual saying it should be hot all times). My question is, where does the power feed from in
  9. I put in the new bearing and the c clip, then mocked it up with the gear in. It all works fine. Its amazing how that little tolerance changed everything. The tightness of the c clip wasn't because it was up against the bearing, it's just a really hardy c clip thats own tension holds it in place. I am unable to move it when it is in. I'll take more of a look at it and see if there's something I'm not seeing. I am concerned that it would move through vibration or friction.
  10. It is VERY tight in there. It was a chore to remove and while it was in, I couldn't get it to budge at all.
  11. Thats exactly where it was aligned. I wasn't matching it with the retaining bolt. At that exact alignment, it contacts the snap ring, which when I replace the bearing, will be oriented with the gap facing the gear. It's a slip yoke eliminator kit from teraflex, I believe. It's one of the older versions so it may not be their up to date best design. When I took out the snap ring, it moved fine.
  12. Popped the tail cone off yesterday to have a look. The gear on the shaft is nice and secure with minimal wear. I was playing with the gear and the tailcone seeing how it fit up and I think i found my problem. The snap ring holding the output shaft bearing was in the gears, hold them from moving. I'm guessing that the gap in the snap ring needs to be right where the gear sits for it to clear properly.
  13. I'm not lining the indicator up with the bolt, although there is no ridge or dimple to mark it with, I was relying on looking up pics and that there's only 4 orientations it could be. I had another look at the shaft gear, still looks perfect. Hard to see, but there it is. I was also thinking, is this supposed to be a short shaft assembly and maybe its reaching too far? You can see a groove at the bottom of the plate in the pic from it.
  14. As the title states, the gear isn't aligning properly. Its an np231, the gear is a 40 tooth gear. The top "holder" is aligned for 39 to 45 teeth. I installed it and just moved the input shaft back and forth a bit to test and when reversing, it pops as though its not turning properly. When going forwards it kind of lines up, popping every 5 or 6 rotations. The inner shaft gear isn't damaged in any way, but when i pulled the speed gear out, you could see that it had bent portions of it. Probably worth noting that my previous 39 tooth gear, while it did function, was worn severely at an angle, to
  15. Measurements tell me its a early model ax15. I havent removed the bushing to measure bore, but the casting number tells me the engine is 94. Guess I'll contact novak and get a replacement if it's necessary
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