ktmall07

When I did this repair, the passenger side had rusted through all the way back through and on both sides of the raised beam on top of the frame rails, so it was a ton of extra work to make a new one and try and salvage the seat mounts. Hopefully you don't have to do that! The front section closer to the firewall was not as difficult to reach or repair, especially if you're just cutting out a flat piece and seam welding. Just make sure to not weld in a straight line but tack weld in a clocklike pattern (similar to tightening lug nuts, so maybe start with corners, then ) so that you don't warp/melt through your new piece. After welding new pieces in and grinding it relatively smooth, I covered everything in POR-15 and left if for a few days to really solidify so I wouldn't have the problem any more in the future. Obviously fixing leaks is the real way to prevent it from happening again, but while you have everything taken out you might as well to be extra sure!

Thanks!

I'm sure this has been asked before, but what have people done for replacement fender flares and liners? I'm assuming that any front liner or flare from an XJ from the same years would work, but what about rear? Any custom builds?

I bet it did haha I'm glad I didn't learn the lesson that way!

Thanks for the tip! I ended up pulling the driveshaft today to inspect and couldn’t find anything wrong with either the slip yoke or the output shaft, or the seal. I did end up finding one of the retaining clips was not all the way in on one side of the flange adapter. I used a press to make sure the u joint was all the way centered in the adapter, and replaced the clips with new ones on both sides. I replaced the driveshaft and vibrations decreased by like 90%, now there’s no more vibrations at high speed than low speed. Lesson learned to make sure u joints are centered and retaining clips are in all the way! Haha 😅

Hi all, I recently completed an 8.8 swap, and installed a rusty's 3" lift front and rear at the same time, and have since had some driveline vibrations at high speeds (> 55 mph). I've narrowed the vibrations down to the rear driveshaft, and checked u-joints first (both were replaced on installing the new axle, and seem fine, they're a few months old). The new 8.8 flange adapter is in good shape as well, it was brand new when purchased, and nothing on that end is loose/worn. I did not install a slip yoke eliminator, because my lift height is not extreme, and pinion/t-case angles are close enough to have almost no slow-speed angle-related vibrations. When inspecting the slip yoke, it seems that pushing up on the driveshaft right below the u-joint causes the transfer case output shaft to move just a hair (< 1/8", just enough to be noticeable). The movement is only up/down, not side-to-side, no matter the position of the u-joint/drive shaft. Maybe the lift itself has put just enough pressure on the bottom of the output shaft to bend something? My question is: Is any amount of lateral movement in the output shaft normal? I've read that excessive movement could mean a worn tailhousing bushing/seal? There's no real leak from the tailhousing (or the transfer case generally), so not sure if either of those things being worn would be noticeable enough to diagnose without pulling it apart. I also haven't taken off the slip yoke since I reinstalled it. I can't tell if the movement is from the output shaft itself or the slip yoke, but it seems like the movement is from the output shaft (when pulling in different directions, I can't move the slip yoke at all, there's no play in it on the end of the output shaft I don't think). If I have to take everything apart to check anyways, Is an SYE necessary/worth it? I thought I was good without one since the lift was not extreme, but maybe better safe than sorry? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

Thanks guys!

I’ve got an 8.8 out of a 99 Explorer (therefore disk breaks) prepped and ready to swap, but the one thing I haven’t figured out is the new brake setup. For those who have done the swap, what did you do for brake fittings? Did you replace lines or could you get away with using stock setups and replacing fittings only? I also don’t currently have a working parking brake, but I’ve got everything setup on the 8.8 to reinstall it. The teeth are stripped on my parking brake pedal, so I was thinking of fabricating a bracket to let me use a handbrake from an XJ. Has anyone done a similar project? Has anyone installed a new parking brake cable for an 8.8 on their truck?

That’s what I’ve decided. I cut out the fittings from the old hose and crimping, and am taking it to a shop to have a custom one made. Thanks guys!

I’m finally finishing up an A/C retrofit, and I’m kinda stuck. The truck didn’t have A/C originally, but had a dealer install a generic system some time. I’ve replaced everything with a mostly stock system, except for the expansion valve, which I replaced with a new version of what was originally on there (some 4 seasons part) because to fit a stock expansion valve I’d have to tear into the firewall Andy replace the whole system, and I want to avoid that until I can’t. I need a new hose from the receiver drier to the expansion valve, with the same fitting on both sides unlike the stock system that has the thin fastener on the expansion valve side. Has anyone seen a hose like this, and does anyone know where to find one? I need a longer version of the hose on the left in the first picture, on the right is a stock hose that is long enough, but has the wrong fitting on the expansion valve side.

Was walking to the bus stop after class today, and look what I found parked on campus! Not a great picture, but if I see it again, I'll stop and get better ones!

Will it fix all the other problems with my engine for that price? haha

I know there's a difference between the original 33002920 Harmonic Dampener and the newer ones (33002920AB or 33002920AC). Has anyone had any experience with the Crown parts Harmonic Balancer, CRO33002920? Is it factory spec to the old HB or updated one? Getting ready to replace the HB, and I'm comparing options. If anyone has had good luck with aftermarket HB's that haven't needed modification like shearing off the end, or removing the "oil slinger" inside the timing cover, I'd be interested to know it. I'd like to avoid Dorman if at all possible, but I'm willing to consider it if other people have had good luck with theirs.

Just replaced the radiator with a CSF 2671 all metal radiator, and now I've found it's leaking from the lower rad hose on startup, but the leak stops after the truck warms up. Seems like there's incorrect pressure at the hose fitting until the truck heats up. I've checked the hose itself, and tightened it as much as I can, but the leak continues only for the first few minutes after the truck starts cold. Any ideas?

What's the difference between the 708 and the 709? The compressor on my truck now is a 709t. I can find other 709's, but not a 708 for a 92.