Limeyjeeper

If you have a post 1997 then they are $5 they might fit pre 97. https://www.quadratec.com/products/918886_94.htm

These are a couple of pictures of the seal on my 1991. It looks a bit different to the Mopar kit, but it might work.

I used the following pieces:- 86225K53- Flame-Retardant Super-Cushioning Foam Sheet, Polyurethane with Adhesive-Back, 24" x 24" x 1/4" $13.98 86225K57 - Flame-Retardant Super-Cushioning Foam Sheet, Polyurethane with Adhesive-Back, 24" x 24" x 1" $27.39 8647K701 - Light Duty Blended EPDM Foam Sheet Soft, 1-1/4" Thick, 42" Wide, 1 ft. Length $40.78 I didn't use the kit you are talking about because I didn't know it existed!! and it is for a 1997 onwards. I don't know if the seal is the same. If it is then I missed out on a much easier fix. You still need the Poly to fix all the other seals and internal foam.

Decided to tackle the heater box over the weekend. What a nightmare. It needed all new foam inside and new gaskets. So hard to cut foam straight, not pretty but does the job.!! Had to scrape off all the interior foam as it was all crumbling and nasty. Purchased self adhesive foam sheets from Mcmaster-Carr (great company) and got to work. It turned out pretty well. I also replaced the heater core and evaporator, plus the temp control and heat sensors. Just waiting on neoprene to replace the fan motor seal. The polyethylene sheet is too soft to make a good seal. The fan seal is critical in stopping water getting into the cab. It is what caused the passenger floor issues on mine. Waiting on a new fan motor. The old one was rough.

I am looking for the under dash wiring harness for a 1991 2.5 or 4.0 HO Comanche. PM me if you can help.

Wrapped in vinyl and glued down and heated to get it nice and tight. It is being done at a local restoration shop. Guy is doing it as a favor, he is into much more exotic projects normally than a lowly old Comanche. They are just doing the body, paint, installing the PRP seats and the dash. I am doing everything else myself. I will be getting it back in pieces!! My bodywork skills are just not that good and I will be keeping this truck for a long time so want it doing right. It is tricky in the Texas heat to keep paint on!!

Got the dash done. It really came out great. Gonna look good against the orange. Just got the baja fiber hood to finish and install and then into the paint booth.

Do not use an HO flywheel use a Renix Flywheel. The CPS triggering is different. So pre 91 flywheel and post 94 clutch and post 94 external slave bellhousing. I used the Core Shifter found on Ebay. Great upgrade for the AX15. The later year AX15 the better there were some decent upgrades made to later year units. Make sure it is a 2WD trans with the tail housing. The 4WD didn't have the tail housing as the Transfer case bolted up directly to the back of the trans. It looks like bothe the AW4 and AX15 rear driveshafts are 53.125" so you may be good with reusing your driveshaft.Don't forget to get the right pilot bearing. 1992 - 1999 AX15 have a 3/4" pilot tip, prior to that was 19/32. Go to Novak conversions they sell the correct pilot bushings for every combination of year.

Just did a little more research you should be good from 1986 to 1996. Pretty much the same pedal, clutch cylinder pretty much the same. In the 1997 and on Jeeps the clutch cylinder support bracket was removed and the clutch master mounting holes moved. The rod coupling also changed. I would use the 1994 - 1996 sealed clutch master/slave cylinder kit. Prebled. Buy metal not plastic if you can. Attached the part manual pages for your reference. Also a pic below of the assembly I am putting in my MJ. 1986 1990 Clutch pedal.pdf 1997 1999 Clutch pedal.pdf 1994 1996 Clutch pedal.pdf 1991 1993 Clutch pedal.pdf

I have done this twice now. My advice is an external slave bellhousing from a 94 and up XJ. Crossmember will work. can't remember if you need a different trans mount. The bracket from the mount to the trans is different if I re.wmber correctly. Get a 1994- 1998 Clutch pedal. Your firewall should have indents for the clutch bolt holes and the master cylinder. Use a prebled master and slave cylinder. You will thank me they are a pain to bleed. Luk clutch/flywheel and an AX15 from an XJ or TJ as you don't care about transfer case clocking. I think you will need a different length driveshaft. You will need a trans tunnel cover plate from a manual. Inner and outer shifter boot. I think you have to jump a pin or two on the auto harness to bypass the neutral lock on the auto. Think that is about. Probably forgot something. Hopefully others who have done this will chime in. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

POR15 won't stop rust but it helps stopping it from starting... Nothing really stops rust IMHO except cutting out the rot and replacing it with new metal.

I agree. Being born in a country where nobody drove an auto when I learned to drive I cringe when I see some of the stick shift driving that goes on!!!

Well known issue. I put the LuK one in my Wrangler howled from day 1, replaced it with a steel National one and no issues. Plenty of people have had the same issue. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Sorry I meant LUK.