schardein

In a stock engine compartment, there is a LOT of wiring present on the pass inner fender. None of that is there. Has it been relocated? How well was the work done? I'd be surprised if it ran, but if it does, troubleshooting future issues might be difficult.

Yep, bad info on the applicable years in the ebay ad. Happens all the time though.

I hate a thief. I've only had a few things stolen from me, but decades later I still remember each time. While it's possible it was a fellow Comanche owner, it could also be someone who doesn't own one, but is aware how popular they are right now and is also aware the tail lights aren't available new. If it were me, I would keep an eye on the local FB marketplace, craigslist, etc, and perhaps even do a search on ebay to see if I could find it listed for sale.

Ha, I was saying for the price, maybe they should include the whole truck.

I'm confused. Does the grill come with a Comanche?

Interested in a chrome headlamp bezel for the pass side. The earlier, two piece type bezel, but I only need the larger piece that surrounds the headlamp (55002244, I think). Only interested in OEM. Thanks.

I think this 85 XJ was in a post here at CC. The pics I saved aren't high res enough to tell, but the photo of the engine compartment shows a cowl cover that appears to be missing the spray nozzles from the usual location. Last pic is my 91 that shows the dual sprayers in the usual place.

Found this looking through the parts catalog. Apparently some XJs (maybe MJs?) used a single washer nozzle in the center? I've looked at some very early XJs and never noticed this.

DBW vs DBC- this comes up all the time in forums and FB pages. One thing about DBW, the entire throttle blade acts as the IAC. Because the throttle blade is giant compared to the tiny air passages of a traditional IAC, it can react more quickly to changes- might be important if you are planning a cam swap. Here is some interesting reading: http://bdturnkeyengines.com/dbw-water I will say that modifying and mounting the DBW pedal in my CJ felt like it was more work than installing the motor. At the end of the day, I'd use whatever your motor comes with.

I've done two LS swaps (CJ and LJ) but used the factory harness and computer both times.

There are also other options. There are lights from a Chevy S10 Blazer that work if you are willing to enlarge the opening slightly. There are also lights from a VW that work. For the shift bezel, are you talking about the transmission console shifter? If so, 3 speed auto or 4 speed auto? Do you care how original it is? You can use ones from later Cherokees, but the font is slightly different (if it is for the 4 speed AW4). It might help if you add your Comanche's info to your signature line.

I ran a Detroit EZ Locker (I don't think they make/offer it anymore) in the front D44 of my 79 K5 Blazer with a 454 and 35" tires. I ran a LockRight in the front D30 of my 83 CJ7 with 32" tires. In my 67 CJ5, I have a LockRight in the front D27, and a Powertrax whatever it's called in the rear 19 spline D44. The rear one is the one that is supposed to have less ratcheting noises. The only issue I ever had was in the CJ7. I had parked the Jeep in front of the house. Got in, started it, and went to back up. Went about a foot when the Jeep jerked to a stop, like the brakes had locked up. I stopped and went about figuring out what happened. Turns out the roll pin that held the cross shaft had backed out (found it in the bottom of the diff), allowing the cross shaft to slide out and jam between the ring and pinion. Since I was moving so slow, it only scarred the ring and pinion a little. I replaced the cross shaft (with one from LockRight advertised as high performance) put in a NEW roll pin with some blue loctite on it, dressed up the ring and pinion with a file, and never had another problem. I eventually sold that axle when I swapped in a front D44. All of them work(ed) well. You can hear them ratchet, which doesn't bother me, except for the one in the rear of the 67 which I really can't hear over the Buick V6 breathing through fender well exit headers into glass packs.

Those half doors are from a YJ. Easy retrofit to a CJ7, check to see if they open and close easily. Looks like they might be 1987 doors (no lock cylinders), or the locks were removed/covered over. Not important if you don't care about locking it up. The front spring shackle and fixed end mounting point look odd. It looks like they replaced the rear (fixed) front spring mounting points, which is odd. I'd carefully inspect the frame for repairs. I've seen rust holes filled with expanding foam, covered in bondo and painted black. Besides looking for rust, I would check EVERY SINGLE electrical accessory to see if they work- headlights high and low, turn signals, wipers, horn, hazards, heater blower, etc. Ask if the fuel gauge works. Electrical issues are common, both from age and previous owner "mods". Looks like a 258 engine, factory auto, and 1980 was the first year for the excellent Dana 300 transfer case, with the one year only (1980) short rear output shaft. 1976-1981 were narrow track axles, should be a Dana 30 front and AMC 20 rear with two piece axle shafts. One piece axle shafts are a common upgrade, but can't tell if they are done because of the center caps on the rear wheels. And I'll just say it- I've owned/wheeled/daily driven a CJ since 1995. I wouldn't recommend one to anyone unless they are a mechanic, or at least mechanically savvy.

And it arrived safely. Nice packing job, by the way.

Good to know. I haven't bought any new Snap-On tools since the initial purchase, other than the odd item here and there at estate auctions. I'm invested in Dewalt for battery op tools. I know everyone loves Milwaukee, I got into Dewalt almost by chance.

I don't understand "it dies every time the alternator starts charging the battery". Your alternator is charging from the moment the engine starts. When you start the engine, how long does it run before it dies? What makes you think the alternator started charging and stalled the engine?

Since this post got brought up top again, I'll make a small update. I bought a Snap-On tool set while in college training to be an auto mechanic (with a student discount, through the university program). Love the tools but struggled to replace broken items throughout my 30 year career in the Marine Corps. Retired, and one day called Snap-On to ask help in locating a truck to make an exchange. I was momentarily speechless when the lady on the phone said "give me the part number you'd like to exchange". Long story short, I've exchanged every tool I broke over the last 30 years, Snap-On mailed them out, free, and they arrived in a few days. Some items I didn't even need to return, others I did, but a shipping label was included with the new tool. I've done it 3 separate times now, and it's absolutely hassle free. We all know Snap-On isn't cheap, but my set is my most prized possession, and considering the use I've gotten out of them, a bargain.

Do you have the Mastercool tool? If so, how do you like it? I've used the old school flaring tool, and the one Jeremy linked. The Mastercool has been sitting in my cart in Amazon for a couple months, waiting to pull the trigger.

Yep, 66-71 CJ5 equipped with the Dauntless (Buick) V6. I never put my emblems back on, and the engine was replaced with a later Buick 231 even fire.

Chevy used D44s in front until 78/79, when the 10 bolt replaced it. My 78 K20 had a front 44, 79 K5 had the front 10 bolt.

K5 all day. Owned a 79 K5 for 32 years. 454/TH400/NP205/14b/D44/35s

I think your reasoning makes sense, especially the point about the C101 connector. I'm just a fan of not modifying the stock wiring at all, if possible. I'd rather add a circuit than modify an existing one. Any idea on what caused the meltdown? It may have been just a bad connection inside the connector, but it's fairly common to see wires in that area (the kick panel) that have the insulation "nicked" to install alarms, stereos, or whatever- then that becomes a prime spot for a short circuit. Quick story- my 91 XJ would die after warming up. Checked codes- codes wouldn't read. Bulb was blown. Replaced, didn't work. Started tracing wires, found several wires in the cluster harness melted together from an aftermarket stereo install by the previous owner (splicing wires into cluster harness, why?). Replaced everything, read codes, replaced camshaft sensor, XJ has ran fine ever since (8 years and counting, fingers crossed).

I'll just offer my opinion: I wouldn't delete the connector. Understand if you just need to get it running, but surely someone here can provide a replacement connector end for little cost. Before making all repairs, I would put a fuse in and just "touch" each wire together to complete the circuit, one at a time. If there is a problem further downstream that caused the melted wires, it may identify itself (fuse blows) so you can track it down. If you reconnect all wires, then plug in the fuse and it blows, you are back to square one.

OK that's slightly different but doable. Most likely that would have to be on the return trip Thursday, I could be there probably early afternoon. I think you have my number, just let me know or post up here.