schardein

Pete I am going through St Louis on Wednesday and coming back through on Thursday. I am going to Texas in a couple weeks, and Arch Canyon UT in April. I don't think I am headed south or ATL area this year, but I could hold it for you or for someone else to pick up

My experience is these "caddy" connectors work for 87-92. The 86 MJs use a flat connector. 1986:

I'd say yes, these are the same thing. I never looked online. Just did a quick search, they are out there but I didn't see an exact match.

You're welcome!

Brilliant! I mangled the plastic retainer getting the part off the XJ, since I had to hold the gate open with one arm (gas struts were gone). Wasn't worried as I knew the one on the MJ latch was good. But I have extra plastic type retainers and might not have thought to mod them.

I guess little things get me excited. I've had this chrome tailgate handle for a while, but the pass side link retainer broke while I was removing it. Been sitting in my parts cabinet for about a year. Did a little research, turns out the tailgate latch on a Renix era XJ uses the same piece. Scored one today and did a quick swap out. For the record, later XJs use retainers that are all plastic, and I think those would work as well. I was wanting a metal one like original.

This little guy can be helpful in getting the terminals out. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/lisle,56500,battery+terminal+disconnect,1000860

I think a relatively easy upgrade is using a relay just for the high speed fan setting. I've seen vehicles setup like this from the factory (not XJs/MJs). I don't recall where I got this circuit diagram from, it's not my work, nor have I done the mod. But looks pretty straight forward, and takes the load off the switch on high speed. EDIT: I reviewed the FSM for wiring the fan switch, and it looks like the green wire is indeed the high speed wire. Also looks like the most burnt in Pete's picture. The wire colors did change over the years, so confirm if doing the mod.

Thanks for posting this. I also have a 242 I'll be swapping in, and I want my stuff to look/work like factory, which means the "full time" and "part time" lights working. You know the shift gate is different for a 242 also, although I've heard a 231 gate works.

Technically not correct for the 1987 and up AW4 transmission. That is the bezel for the 3 speed A904 used 84-86. Still really cool, as any of those shift bezels are hard to find in good shape.

The connector on my 91 XJ was toast and needed replaced, so it happens. Maybe less often, IDK? I still have the connectors/terminals/pigtails available. Just updated the post in the vendors section.

UPDATE: Since this post was recently linked, I'm taking this opportunity to update it. I will edit the first post and add some info here. I sell these parts on eBay. If you find this more convenient, here is a link to the connector with wire pigtails. Click on "see other items" for the connector housing alone or with terminals: https://www.ebay.com/itm/234400215688?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bpFa1QANQb2&sssrc=2380676&ssuid=bpFa1QANQb2&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I can still deal directly with Comanche Club members. One thing, I ask that any transactions using PayPal be done through "Purchase Protection". Yes, that involves a fee on my end, but it allows me to print postage online through PayPal and saves me a trip to the post office. Doing this means your parts are shipped the same or next day. If I have to go to the post office, shipping could be delayed a few days. I also have the Packard series 56 terminals (female) for these types of connectors in 18 gauge, 14-16 gauge, and 12 gauge. Like the connectors, these are also on eBay, or we can deal directly.

I think I still have most of these.

This makes me curious, business owned? State/Fed Gov owned?

The 4x4 emblem on the rear bedside was an 86 thing, I think some owners of early 87s also report having them there. I've seen the pocket doors on Cherokees 84-86, Comanches 86, I can't recall seeing them on anything later.

Factory tow hooks, rear cab light, center console/buckets, chrome tailgate handle, brushed dash bezel. To me, it looks like whoever took those photos knows Comanches. I really like the combination paint scheme, it reminds me of the Eddie Bauer Edition Broncos that were available at the time.

Yeah all good, thanks guys. I saw I had been quoted and didn't want to appear rude by not reading/replying.

Thanks gents. I contacted the "quoter" by msg, and he replied that he sold a part to the poster, so topic was probably deleted.

OK. I didn't know you could hide a post, but I see the option in the right side drop down.

It was a wanted ad for a 120mph speedometer. I don't see it now.

I got a notification on a topic in the "wanted" section, that someone had quoted me. Click to go there, get this. Does this mean the topic was deleted?

All factory XJ/MJ downpipes I have seen had the crush. That's XJs with the single outlet manifold, not the later dual outlet type. That's on the 4.0. Can't recall ever noticing on 4cyl models.

I've looked at adapting that same part to a 4.0 installed in a CJ. Same thing, the oval opening is the sticking point. Ah, I see where you're coming from.

If you can't actually see where the leak is coming from, replacing the o-ring seal for the sending unit is a relatively cheap and easy thing to try. If it still leaks, at least you've ruled it out. It could be leaking from the fuel lines (while under pressure with the truck running) from a loose clamp or a split in the line near the clamp, or from a failed weld (from rust) or a rust hole. FYI- an emergency fix for a pinhole leak in the gas tank is rub the area with a bar of soap (regular bath bar type soap). I've had a "temporary" fix last several years. Also, this is just me, but I would replace that connector on the ground wire on the sending unit. That open barrel crimp type connector is subject to corrosion. I would cut it off, crimp on a new eye terminal (without the plastic barrel piece, just pull it off) in the proper gauge size for the wire, solder it, and then apply some adhesive lined heat shrink to the connection to protect it (slide the heat shrink on before making the crimp!). This would be easier (and safer) to do with the sending unit removed and on the bench, like it would be if you replace the o-ring.

The later valve covers still have two lines for crankcase ventilation, one for vacuum (vent) and one for clean air in. You'll still have two hoses unless you are using a filter right on the valve cover for clean air in.