schardein

The left seat was missing from this one, the home made platform for mail in it's place I don't think the transfer cases are different. This is the first 120mph speedometer I've seen without the "certified calibration". I wonder if there is any significance to it, or if it was just dropped at some point. Don't intend to turn this into a tech thread, but I'm wondering if the gauges could be swapped into a LHD housing. Also, on the RHD XJs, something that is different is the engine accessory mounting stuff. The alternator mount is high up and has the belt adjustment in it. One of my future projects to use this mount on a early HO engine, along with the 99+ horseshoe intake manifold and matching P/S setup. This does away with the belt driven fan capability and would result in two adjustment points for the drive belt. Main goal is highest possible alternator mounting and simple/neat engine accessory brackets in a Jeep CJ swap application.

Yep... and no. Did you notice it's also right hand drive? The XJ was set up as a postal vehicle. No idea if it was sold as a postal vehicle, but it had a home made shelf on the left side for mail. Also, I have two police package clusters, one with a column shift indicator and one without. Both of them say "certified calibration" on the speedometer. This one doesn't say "certified calibration" and didn't have the extended idle switch. It did have a factory type sticker in the glove box saying it was equipped with a locking type differential. It was a Dana 35, I assume it was a trac-lock. Pic of my column shift police cluster.

This was in a 96 XJ. First one like this I've seen.

The black 8-way connector is for the headlight sentinel system. All XJs/MJs are wired for it, just need to get the delay relay and plug it in to make it function. Part number 56009324 or 56000636.

OK great, thanks for the feedback gents.

This is a valuable resource thread with lots of good info. I don't want to clutter it up, but I do have a question. Has anybody tried the 15013 Landau Black? What I'm really curious about is the difference between that and 15233 Gloss Black and 15243 Satin Black? Is it just the gloss level, with Landau Black being basically "flat"?

I also took sewing in junior high. But I think I've forgotten most of it. I'd love to come across a machine big enough to sew canvas at a good (cheap) price.

Driverless Jeep? What fun is that?

I decided to take a chance on a Harbor Freight purchase today. 30 seconds out of the box, I have this 180 degree bend. $7.99 well spent. https://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-bender-3755.html

Thanks for the heads up! Definitely applies as my CJ sees a lot of off road time.

Thanks for all the feedback so far. I did order some of the tube bending springs, as I can see a use for those both with my current project and future ones. Still shopping for an actual bending tool. I have worked with the NiCopp lines before, and it's a welcome difference to regular steel. In 3/16" brake line, forming by hand as you mention worked well. But for this 3/8" line, not so much. That works for a wide radius, but not for a small one. I'm sure an engineer could calculate the minimum bend radius of the material, and whatever that is, I'm nowhere close to it just working it by hand. Just for fun, here is a Dana 44 axle with two sets of hand formed brake lines, which was my first time working with NiCopp. These were also the last lines I formed flares on using the old bar and clamp flaring tools I've had since college (1987-88). I've since upgraded my flaring tools.

Yep that's cool, but it's a major cringe that they were recommending the use of a Scotchlok connector, even if it was inside the cab. Those things are awesome at making a questionable connection that will later turn into an intermittent open circuit

Thanks guys. I remember seeing those, and thinking it's not even worth listing my used ones for sale haha. Yeah Pete that would be a hard one to display other than just hang them up.

I need to bend some 3/8" copper-nickel fuel line. The bender I have is a cheap little thing and the line kinks before I can get close to a 90 degree bend. Did some searching online and found some suggestions for Rigid brand benders, which are expensive. They are the type with handles and supposedly can do a 180 degree bend. I've done a lot of 3/16" brake lines and some 3/8" steel line. I'm not opposed to investing in some Rigid benders, but thought I would ask for opinions. Anyone bend 3/8 tubing, what did you use and how well did it work?

How much were they on Team Cherokee?

I don't know how much experience you have with the wiring, so I'll add something. If you look at the second picture in my post above, the diagram of the bulkhead connector. Note that 4 of the terminals are highlighted in orange. All the terminals in the bulkhead connector are series 56 male/female, 1/4" spade terminals. The ones highlighted in orange are series 59 male/female terminals, which are 5/16" wide and have a higher current carrying capacity. Same as used in most headlight connectors. I'm not sure if the MJ/XJ bulkhead connectors have the same thing, but I suspect they do. Use the 59 terminals for the high current loads, like the main fuse box power feeds.

I can't help with your specific question, but I can make a suggestion: Keep that connector. Once you figure out what you don't need, un-pin all the wires you don't need and remove them from that connector. Then, any circuits that you need to go inside the cab can go through the now "open" ports. You can even re-use the wire and terminal, just cut the wire and splice a new one on. Or, buy new terminals. The wires you add don't need to go into the fuse block; they can come out the inside bulkhead connector and go wherever they are needed. This way, you aren't feeding wires through a new hole that you drilled in your firewall, with a new grommet. You could also get a PDC (power distribution center- under hood fuse box) from a 91 and up MJ-XJ, and add it to your engine compartment. Gut it and rewire it for your purpose. When done, it will all potentially look factory installed. Hope that makes sense. This is how I did my CJ7 LS swap. I think the best swaps are the ones that look like a factory installation, rather than a full custom swap with aftermarket doodads everywhere, or worse, a hack job with random wires going everywhere. I also scavenged connectors from the truck the engine came from, and used them in a few places in the engine compartment. I suggest keeping track of what each wire does, in a diagram, as you do the work. I didn't, and had to go back weeks later and trace wires to produce diagrams in case I need to troubleshoot something down the road.

What does a RX-135 go for?

In 2017 I bought all the tools, supplies, and parts to repair the AC systems on my 91 XJ, 91 MJ, and 01 Silverado. I converted the XJ and MJ to 96 parts to use the new refrigerant. I don't remember all the details, I but remember having to get a little creative with mounting the new condenser. And swapping the plug on the dryer as Jeremy mentioned. It does make changing the engine oil filter an issue. I have converted the XJ to a rear facing filter adapter. The MJ will get the same eventually. I have to say the Silverado turned out great- AC worked so well you didn't want to run it full cold. The XJ and the MJ on the other hand, work OK. Barely OK. That's with new everything except the one line that isn't available new, and the old evaporator, which I flushed out. Here is a pic of the MJ- not the greatest pic, I think I was documenting the cruise control install.

Well the delay I've had sitting on my workbench for months is bad. Or at least the delay doesn't delay, it just runs at the normal slow speed regardless of the setting. I've got another one in my shop, I'll pull it out and check it today. Now I'm wondering how often these boxes go bad.

I have one sitting on my workbench right now. I can take it out and plug it into my XJ later today for testing. Let me know if you are still looking.

I took my 5 "worst condition" Turbines and had them powder coated. Wasn't sure I would like them, but I think they turned out great and I will probably use them as is.

Pete, I bought that double ratchet years ago to put in my junkyard backpack. It was a space/weight saving effort. It didn't last 3 months of occasional weekend junkyard trips. When I went in to exchange it, they were out. I bit the bullet and picked up this Pittsburgh 1/4" swivel ratchet. Now, this thing is money well spent. I have Snap-On, Craftsman full polished, and Proto 1/4 ratchets, and the Pittsburgh is my favorite. I carried it for years until I left it at the Pick-n-Pull in St Louis under the hood of a Suburban. Hope someone found it. I went and bought another one.

A part number for the connector? Sorry, I do not.