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trinity5007

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  • Location
    prince Albert SK Canada
  • Interests
    All about the build

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Can Spell Comanche

Can Spell Comanche (2/11)

  1. Where are you located?
  2. For a side note I did a custom long arm kit on mine. With a 6.5 inch lift I wish I had done a long arm first instead of a short arm. In terms of stability and ride quality... if you are going to get a lift and are one the fence... anything over a 3 inch I would go long arm. You will be alot happier with it. Mine rides smoother then a Cadillac. Just saying.
  3. Lol ya I actually ran into issues with it before. And had to clean them
  4. Might be late I did actually figure it out. I couldnt find it because it's not there. I go the wiring diagram and traced the wires. My headlight harness didnt have the fog light option. Truck side is all there. So all I have to do is ad in the relay kit and I'm good to go.
  5. This could be a tough one... I hope someone can help me out. So my front passenger corner has gotten hit... by trees.. I'm wondering if anyone has ever drilled out the welds holding the header support panel on. It would be the large metal panel the battery tray mounts to as well as the front clip. Does anyone have the measurements for where a new one is supposed to sit?
  6. The 1990 was by the air box. I'm not sure about the 92. There is a plug that comes off the harness by the ecu but the wiring is different colors.
  7. Hey guys. Looking for some help. In trying to set up my factory fog lights but I can't seem to get them to work. I have the OEM switch it lights up but no power to the actual fog lights. I know there is a relay but I can't seem to find it. It's a 1992. The Haynes manual was less then helpful. And Google does nothing. I found the fuse it's good. Now I'm trying to find the relay. Any Ideas?
  8. Personally I would run the ho. And swap the parts over. You want. The columns are easy to swap over. I've changed mine twice. Electrical connections are the same on both.
  9. That one would have to be turned. Con rod number 1 was trying to spot out the bearing. And the crank has major grooving in it. Unfortunately it's a 45min drive to a machine shop and they want 600 cad to do it. I was able to source one through Clegg's for alot less. Then it's a new crank ready to go
  10. Haha no doubt. She is noisy smokes like crazy but.. stil runs still drives. Idk how far but I will
  11. If anyone is following this. I ended up going ahead with the swap. A couple things I found out. First I found several bad connections when I was pulling out the old harness. This could have been the cause of a few of my issues. Second its alot of work but... totally worth it. It cleaned up the wiring so much. And now my starting is amazing. And swapping just the renix to the ho block yes it gave it more power but when you swap the ecm to match.. soo much better I was getting 375km to a tank of fuel now I'm seeing 450 pluss. The power and tourque increases are definitely noticable. Now I can actually cruise at highway speeds. Couldnt do that before. Things to note. The fuel sending units are different you need a 92 to read properly. Ignition switches and map sensor are identical. No need to change. The ecm will need to relearn the engine. Not a big deal but worth noting. The rear tail lights plug is different you will have to swap it out unless you do a custom harness. Accessory package on engine is different but performs better. Power steering pump remains the same but brackets will have to change if you are changing any of that. I'm sure if you dabbed it up you could make it work but I just swapped all the 92 stuff over. Over all worth the swap. But it's a bit of work
  12. Haha I wish. Basically i rebuilt another block. And put an engine tech oil pump in it. Ran about 5000 km on it then the oil pump failed took out the block while on a trail ride. By the time I realized what happened it was too late and I just said screw it and drove as far as I could. Made it to a budys place it's been there ever since. Engine still starts and runs but noisy and smokey. Oil pressure comes up to about 30 psi and slowly drops as it warms up. I'm not totally sure what happened but she done either way. It's probably salvageble but... the block has over 300 000 km on it it was hydro locked and rebuilt once already didnt see a point in boreing it out and redoing it again. Found another complete engine ax15 and np231 for $400 cad couldnt pass up that deal. I run ax15 in my truck as is. They are hard to find. Figured even if the block was shot the rest was worth it. But I tore the engine down camshaft has weird wear on it timing chain was worn pistons have mild scoring and rod bearing number 1 was damaged and oozing out the side. Guy said it had a slight knock... Haha I'm not surprised. But I measured the block everything checks out. No scoring in the cylinders and they fall into factory spec. So now I'm just tracking down parts. This thing has gone from 2wd to 4x4 6 inches off the ground to 24 inches to my lowest point. Had a renix ecu now its swapped over to a 92 ecm. Btw well worth it but alot of work. Finally got the engine humming alot happily then bam just one bad week. Driving down the trail drove through a water hole nothing out of the ordinary the an hour later lost oil pressure and things got loud. Sorry maybe a longer story then expected. The fall before I was out rock crawling I was going up the steepest sketchfest stuff I have ever done. The thing performed flawlessly... I figured if it was going to go it would have been 3 hours away from home in the middle of no where. But nope it goes 20 minutes away on a trail i hit up regularly.
  13. Mine always kicks on at 212. But that's slowly moving through trails or stop and go traffic. At 86 degree air temp. But that being said I have a single core rad. When I was running the thicker rad it never came on. Even with the single core. A new clutch fan helped significantly. Now the aux fan barely ever turns on. It's got to be hot hot.
  14. Hey so... I ran I to a tough spot it seems. My engine blew.. I picked up a new/used block. It needs a rebuild but everything is in spec minus the a few things. Going with all new internals but I'm having a hard time finding a crank shaft. I'm not sure if it's worth it for me to go stroker or keep it stock. I'll be porting the head to allow for more air flow but otherwise keeping the rest stock. Anyone have lines on crankshaft suppliers? Engine is a 1992. 4.0l
  15. I believe they were in the 4x4 dakotas too.
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