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About gogmorgo

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    MJ Maniac

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    Jasper NP

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  1. Engine swap specifics will be about the same as an LS swapped XJ. In terms of suspension, it's all the same between long and short bed. As far as the frame is concerned, it's six inches longer between the back of the cab and front spring hanger, then an extra six inches between the rear spring hangers and bumper. Plus some stuff mounts in different places, like the shocks and gas tank hangers. Rear cross members are different too. Creativity could probably make shortbed stiffeners work, but I'm pretty sure Krustyballer on here makes long bed stiffeners, if not now then soon. Check the vendors forum in the classifieds.
  2. The front part of the XJ pan is pretty similar, and wouldn't take too much work to adapt. It's the the rear cab area (under the seats) that is drastically different. I don't know if collectively we've found a supplier for proper MJ floorpan repops. Pretty sure they're all just XJ pans of varying quality, by which I mean most of them don't really fit the XJ either.
  3. gogmorgo

    Rear fog lights

    Some members have separated the lens from the back portion by carefully heating them to break the glue. Or you can just pull the bulb holders out and run water through them.
  4. gogmorgo

    Rear fog lights

    Yup. Not the factory bumper. It's an old Fey/Westin bumper. Still being repopped under various brand names. It's a universal-fit 1/4-ton bumper. If Johnny Beck is still around they might get a kick out of seeing it. Some people collect old dealer memorabilia like that too... but there aren't too many who would place much value in that bumper, I don't believe.
  5. Well got her buttoned all back up this afternoon. Seems to be doing great, just took it on a 40-mile test drive. Gorgeous evening for a cruise. I would've got it done yesterday but I wasn't happy with the pinion seal that came in the kit. Just a cheap single-lip one. Fortunately d35 parts are common enough. I also discovered between knocking out the old pinion races that there were some chunks of gear tooth hanging out between the bearings. Ring and pinion look okay still but upon closer inspection the spider gears were shredding themselves. So there's some real justification for the time and money. That also explains the big clunk getting on and off the throttle... It's nice that that's gone now.
  6. Too late, their segment at Moab's already been filmed. I did try though when they first revealed it.
  7. Just a trailer I know. But this will be interesting to watch. Mildly modded MJ stacked up next to a JT. Looks like we can kiss that nice rear bumper goodbye though.
  8. I threw a zip-tie through a hole in the bottom of mine. Works great, because if I'm ever cranking it down it hits the zip-tie and there's increased resistance, I remember, and stop. It works great until I have a passenger who rolls the window down, hits resistance, and then gives the window crank hell before I can stop them, slices through the zip tie, and then a few minutes later decides they didn't want the window down after all but suddenly they can't roll the window back up...
  9. Part numbers are the same for the first year or so of the ZJ then they change. I don't know what the difference is if any. But I'd go with WJ lower control arms given the choice. Might as well upgrade while you're at it.
  10. Common place for the line to the reservoir to get damaged is where it runs past the battery. It's pretty easy to catch it with the battery while you're changing it. I've also seen pretty poor jobs of sealing the vacuum line to the heater valve after it was deleted.
  11. Seriously though. They had to take the time to change the molds to turn it into a truck instead of an SUV. Remove parts, make the wheelbase longer, etc. You'd think they'd at least put the filler door in and get rid of the window cutouts at the same time, no?
  12. Deep puddles on one side of the vehicle (or puddles that are deeper on one side than the other) will pull hard because suddenly your pushing through a substance that's over 700 times more dense with significantly more drag. Wider tires have more surface area getting hit by water which exaggerates the effect. Any vehicle hitting a puddle at speed will pull hard in the direction of the deeper part of the puddle. As for steering dampers, they exist to reduce oscillations. Death wobble is an oscillation that hits resonance. Oscillations (or vibrations) can be caused by anything... loose or worn pivot points, poor steering geometry, tire balance... all it takes is vibration at the wrong frequency. The steering damper prevents the vibration from resonating. Now clearly if the triggering vibration is severe enough it'll overwhelm the damper, (probably blow it out, TBH) and do its thing anyhow, but that doesn't mean it's not helping to stop small vibrations due to road surface or whatever that you would otherwise ignore from resonating and causing death wobble. And sloppy mounting points basically turn it useless.
  13. Let's go back to this terminology thing. The engine is "turning over" when you turn the key. That's it. It's not running. It's not firing. It's not coughing. It's not doing anything other than rotating under power of the starter. All that's happening is the starter is turning the engine. To see fuel while the engine is turning over you have to either have someone sitting there on the key holding it in the start position, or else some other setup that allows you to replicate that action from under the hood. The injector will not spray just because the fuel pump is running. It needs the signal from the ecu telling it to spray, which only happens while the engine is turning.
  14. Code 41 is charging curcuit, nothing to do with map sensor. I've made it go away more than once by cleaning battery terminals.
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