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About gogmorgo

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    MJ Maniac

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    Jasper NP

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  1. Yeah that was also a bit of a concern. I'd rather have the sled loaded nose down than up with skis on the wheelwell, so I'll definitely have a tape measure with me while shopping. The inner enginerd needed some whiteboard time. Two feet for bed height is approximate, a little lower than where it sits I think but tough to say without loading up a sled, 10' overall length is also approximate. But the 30° ramp angle that results isn't terrible, and a slide-out ramp extension would be easy and just make the angle better. Also it would mean you aren't just slamming the back of the track down once it finally tips down. I'm guessing break over point wouldn't have the sled more than a foot or two behind the loaded position. Probably a dumb idea and I haven't even looked at them yet but how bad would it wreck the tailgate hinges using them as a pivot point? I should go do something practical before having more dumb ideas.
  2. Hmm... And if you could pull a pin or something and have it drop down into a ramp, that's getting two birds stoned at once cause you wouldn't need to worry about the ramp taking off on you.
  3. Yeah that's my thinking. Definitely much easier to pick up the back end than the front of any sled I've messed around with. It'll be a couple weeks before I start looking at them, so I'll have to let you all know how it turns out.
  4. Just sitting on the tailgate, eh? I guess a longer track wouldn't be all that much extra weight hanging off the end, either.
  5. Well it depends on the sled. You would be looking at over 10 feet for the bigger models. One of my coworkers hauls his around with a deck on his 6.5' bed Tundra, although he's got a lot more cab length and weight balancing that out. And there's a lot of it hanging off the back end of the truck; that photo really doesn't do it justice, but I don't have a side shot on my phone.
  6. Yes, but the seals don't necessarily appreciate brake cleaner any more than the grease does.
  7. The long bed is not registered or in any condition to become that way any time soon unfortunately. Major rust repairs are currently underway but my landlord has been reprioritizing my projects and because it's not on the property right now it's been pushed to the bottom of the stack.
  8. I'm thinking about picking up a sled for this winter, and am wondering if anyone has hauled one in their MJ. Anyone bought or built a deck? What about a ramp? My main concern is how far it would hang off the end of my shortbed. The obvious answer is just trailer it behind the ZJ but then I've got to stash a trailer somewhere and I don't have space to do that at my place short of leaving it hooked up to a vehicle on the street...
  9. You want to be careful with the brake cleaner, don't want to wash the grease out of the bearings.
  10. That speed range is pretty typical tire balance, although I think you'd pretty well need a tire to start separating to make it anything I would describe as violent. Were the ujoints and trans mount done before or after you noticed the vibration?
  11. Cruiser54.com, one of his tips addresses the dash ground. I'd give the headlight switch a look if that doesn't help. I can't really see it causing anything more on the dash than just turning on dash lights if it goes bad, but it's also a known weak point that likes to melt harnesses.
  12. The current through the circuit is determined by the sum of the resistances. If you increase resistance without increasing voltage, it reduces the total current. As a rule resistance will generate heat (or some other form of work), however the conductor carrying the current will also dissipate the heat almost as effectively as it conductors electricity. In most cases by the time there's enough resistance to build enough heat quickly enough to damage components, the voltage drop will be already be obvious because the circuit has quit functioning as intended. I've seen plenty of corroded connectors in my line of work (wrenching on highway plow/sanders) and a decent number of burnt or melted ones as well, but I can't recall ever seeing one that was both corroded and melted. Most of the melted connectors I've seen have been for switches with movable contacts and high currents, like fan speed switches, that rely on spring tension to maintain their connection, which lessens as the switch ages, and the heat has clearly been generated within the switch rather than the connector. No signs of corrosion. I've seen a couple cases of melted connector pins randomly within a connector on an otherwise functioning circuit, but the heat is very localized, with the only evidence limited to the inside of the connector, just the area around the poor connection. The heat is conducted away pretty effectively by the wire. Again there's no obvious corrosion inside the connector, just melted plastic and burnt dielectric grease. The few other cases I've seen of overheated connectors to the point of significant damage have been down to exceeding intended current, either through a short-circuit or if something was added to a circuit, like extra lights. I've only encountered two cases of actual electrical fire. One was my MJ's headlight switch, again an aging movable contact switch under heavy load, a well-documented problem. The other was the main positive cable to a relay box controlling most of the functions of a vacuum truck, that rubbed the frame and shorted. Just because I find it interesting to point out, that last one did have circuit protection in the form of a type-2 (self resetting) circuit breaker which tested good, so it seems it didn't provide adequate cool-down time before resetting, and just pulse-width-modulated the accidental heating element until it caught fire. The cable wasn't switched so there's no telling how long it took to ignite; the truck had been parked for a few hours before someone noticed smoke and flames, although the operator said he didn't notice anything not working while it was running. I changed it out for a manual-reset breaker after replacing the burnt harness and relay box.
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