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gogmorgo

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    Jasper NP

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  1. 5” wider if that’s the case might be a consideration. On stock wheels, the 31’s on my ZJ just slightly rub the sway bar. It would be problematic if the sway bar stuck out an extra couple inches on each side. Also I see no reason not to want a stiffer sway bar for a lifted vehicle if it’s being street driven. Taller means more body roll. Run disconnects (or just unbolt and tie up end links) for flexing off-road.
  2. I have no experience with the WJ sway bar, but I found the 28mn bar off a ZJ was a noticeable improvement. I can only imagine one off a heavier WJ to be even better. But whether or not you notice depends on your driving style. I just changed out a broken end link on a friend’s XJ, and the only thing she noticed was the noise the broken link was making banging against the sway bar, because she drives like there’s a card castle in the back she doesn’t want to knock over… never goes around corners fast enough to know what normal body roll feels like, and she’s put over 100k miles on the thing. Most people are somewhere between the two extremes.
  3. 0.02A is not a lot. I don't know if there's a proper spec for an MJ, but as a general rule that's acceptable. A typical group 34 battery in good health should be able to put out that much current for well over a month before you have issues starting. Have you tested the battery?
  4. Interesting. I'm currently going through an a/c course. We kinda glossed over converting from R12 to 134a, but one thing the instructor mentioned was that we should always change all seals and hoses while doing it in addition to everything else, and his justification was that R134a molecules are larger and can escape through hoses that would contain R12. The TSB doesn't say hoses should be replaced, only the seals, and it looks like only the seals for components that were replaced. Makes me wonder if the issue with the hoses is more one of replacing 30-year-old hoses because they're 30-year-old hoses than anything else, unless the molecule size is new info since the TSB, that or not as big an issue as my instructor made it out to be. Also, when the subject of topping up R12A or other "universal" refrigerants came up, the big concern was that it becomes very difficult to get the correct charge in the system. With an unknown mixture of gasses in the system, the "correct" pressures won't be predictable, and it's difficult to judge charge level by pressure anyhow because refrigerant pressure is temperature dependent and the temperatures vary widely across the system and need monitored very precisely. It's possible to get the system to function by following the instructions on the can, but it's going to be very difficult to get the system working correctly, making future diagnosis more difficult. The concern about pressures and temperatures is why you should always start with a fully vacuumed out system and fill based on weight, not just with pressure gauges, even if you know exactly what you're putting in the system.
  5. Also could be a plugged filter or pickup sock. It's unlikely but possible that the gas blends this side of the border have loosened up some old junk in the tank and sucked it into the system. I've also seen a lot of in-tank hoses fail shortly after a pump change. The stress of pulling the old hose off can compromise it if it wasn't already on its way out. It's also not uncommon to see non-submersible fuel line used which doesn't last long when it's sitting in gas. But IIRC the Bosch pump comes with a new chunk of submersible hose so if it is a problem it probably just popped off.
  6. I just did it through my bank’s mobile app. Took all of five minutes.
  7. Good reminder I need to go check my mail. I'm waiting on a new card as well, I got hit a couple weeks ago, $200 spent on onlyfans. Scammers must be lonely people, lol.
  8. You changed the wheel bearings on the rear axle? Usually if one bearing goes in an axle the metal floating around in oil takes out the rest of the bearings in pretty short order. You don't typically get away only changing out the one bearing, usually if you start looking into it you'll find the rest warrant changing out as well. With as much play between the ring and pinion as you have, plus the metal floating around, they'll have worn out the contact surfaces and they'll need changed too. If you don't change out all the gears and bearings you'll probably be back in there within the next few thousand miles for something else... or the same things again. That unfortunately is going to include your new wheel bearings. Setting up new gears yourself isn't difficult, but it does take precision. Thousandths of an inch can mean the difference between the diff lasting 500,000 miles or blowing up within 50 miles. It's possible to follow instructions online and get it dialled, but it's definitely better to have someone around who knows what they're doing to keep things on track. It's also critical to clean out the entire housing to get all the metal shrapnel out to stop it happening again. It's an excellent idea to get a magnet in there as well once you've rebuilt to collect anything that was missed. To answer the initial question, no, there should be absolutely no movement in the carrier or any component, other than rotating in their normal direction. The carrier bearings keep the carrier fixed in place. But they're not the only component in the system that does that. The carrier bearing shims have two functions. The first is setting the preload on the carrier bearings, to ensure zero end play (no side-to-side motion in the carrier) and the second is to locate the ring gear relative to the pinion. The gears want to push apart under load, so the preload, having no play, is critical to keeping the gear contact pattern where you want it. If anything is moving around at all, there's absolutely no way to keep the ring and pinion contacting the way they should, which will destroy the gears.
  9. Availability of tires in any size has been hurt by the pandemic. We weren't able to get trailer tires at all for our light fleet at work for a few months this summer through any of our wholesalers, and we've started needing to stockpile steer tires for the highway plows because it's taking close to a month to get them in when it used to be overnight. The more popular sizes and brands in light truck tires are sold out all the time. If anything the less popular sizes have been more available, although even they're starting to sell out. But let's face it, it's been ten years since the last new truck was sold with a 15" wheel. The only ATs I can find in a 225/75R15 are the Toyo Open Country AT3, the Goodyear Wrangler Trailrunner AT, and the Kelly Edge A/T which is apparently a discount Goodyear brand. and a handful of all-seasons and winters. The Grabber ATx lists a 225/70R15, and a 215/75R15, might be other options in that size. 235/75R15 is fairly commonly listed and usually the logical step up on the XJ but is definitely getting tougher to find lately as well, like anything else for a 15" truck wheel. I ended up with a set of 16" KJ wheels for my winters on my ZJ after giving up trying to find something close to a 31x10.5 for a 15" wheel.
  10. No and no, although many of the local parts chains have the same program, but a few of them have paused it due to covid. Canadian Tire and Partsource for sure had the program, Lordco might have and is my prefered parts supplier if an option. I’ve seen reference to Napa renting out tools as well but my local one doesn’t. Probably better to call ahead. If you’re looking for cheap single-use tools for purchase, Princess Auto is the go-to, although any parts chain will have tools for sale.
  11. Sorry… I was thinking if you were a bit closer I might have been able to offer a little more assistance, tools, etc, but I’m in Alberta. Can’t think of any forum members in the Vancouver area, either, at least not off the top of my head.
  12. gogmorgo

    College Vehicle

    The year our local CFL team won the Grey Cup, after the celebration in the student lounge a few of us climbed up onto the roof of one of the more prominent buildings on campus and ran the team flag up the flagpole. Except we didn’t hang it from the rope, one of the smaller guys shimmied up the pole and zip-tied it onto the pole itself just below the Canada flag. This was the end of November, and it was still up there when classes ended in April. Again, not something I can recommend doing.
  13. gogmorgo

    College Vehicle

    I once drove with six adult-sized people in the cab of my bucket-seat floor-shift MJ. I won’t pretend it was an intelligent idea, or particularly comfortable, and we didn’t go very far, but it did happen.
  14. Been thinking about this again lately. I bought all the stuff to build the harness last fall/winter, but it's just been sitting in a shopping bag in the corner. Don't really know what happened there but I sorta lost interest... ADHD things I guess. At any rate, I just went out and tested the latching and unlatching voltage of a handful of relays I have sitting around, including the ones I bought, using the dash light dimmer from a headlight switch I have laying around to reduce voltage. They all switched at around 5.5-6V according to my very cheap analog multimeter. I'm not confident in the accuracy of the reading, but judging by the MJ's voltmeter the multimeter reads low, so even though it's borderline I don't anticipate the relays will switch with the DRL voltage. More of a concern is that they don't unlatch until the power is cut completely, which may be a bit problematic if the headlights are switched off with the high beams on. So hopefully the brief delay I see when doing that is actually an interruption in power and not just filaments warming up, because I don't know that I'll be able to find a resistor that knocks 5V down to <1V without also knocking 12V down below 6V. So I'm thinking I'll just go ahead and build the harness like I was planning, see what happens... if I ever get around to it. Lots going on right now, unfortunately.
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