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gogmorgo

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MJ Maniac

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  1. You can make anything fit if you really want to. The biggest advantage I think to the ZJ rear disks is that they‘ve been very available in wrecking yards and so on, and I don’t see the supply of parts drying up any time soon. They also have the same lug pattern and hub centre bore so you know your wheels will still fit. Going to a JK you’d be changing all that, to the point it would almost be more worthwhile just to swap out the whole axle. As far as the front’s concerned, I’m not entirely sure what you’re struggling with. The Allen bolt calliper bolts can be a pain but nothing else in there is too problematic. You can always swap the knuckles to go with the later style D30 callipers and brakes. You can grab them off any ‘91+ 4x4 XJ, MJ, TJ, ZJ. It’s not going to be a performance upgrade, and it won’t be any easier to change the pads, but I have found it slightly easier to find parts for the later style.
  2. In addition to spark plugs, the spark plug wires and distributor cap and rotor are also wear items that should be replaced if you don't know how old they are. As mentioned, Cruiser's tips are definitely something worth working through. www.Cruiser54.com As far as slow warmup is concerned, the thermostat would be the first thing I'd look at, because they're cheap and easy to change out. It's also apparently very common for people in warmer climates than mine to put in a lower temperature thermostat than factory recommended in a misguided attempt to make the engine run cooler, which doesn't really work out how they think. The thermostat only controls the lower end of the operating range, so a lower temp tstat will only slow down the warmup, and won't ever prevent overheating. In my climate, it also means you'll have an inadequate heater. Running at low temperature in a fuel injected vehicle will cause the computer to stay in open loop, essentially a warmup mode that is functionally similar to running a carburetor with a closed choke, in that it will run very rich, which will be mostly noticeable in terms of fuel consumption. I don't think it would cause the entirety of your poor MPG issue, but it will definitely be part of it. It can also carbon foul your spark plugs and cost you some performance or at least smooth running if it rarely warms up entirely, so it's worth at least checking and/or cleaning those again, even though they're new. The easiest and likely cheapest way up from your 31's on 3.07 gears is almost definitely going to be to find a Dana 35 out of another MJ with 3.55 gears, paired up front with a non-CAD Dana 30 from a '90's XJ if yours in 4x4. It's the setup in my daily driver and it does alright, it's basically the equivalent ratio to 3.07's on 3.55's. Although if big tires are in the future, now would be the time to future proof. I wouldn't be too concerned about your exhaust. It's possible the broken manifold bolt and subsequent exhaust leak also burnt your intake manifold gasket, but that would very likely cause a high idle. As far as the system and diameter go, it's not such a huge increase. It will shift your torque curve up in RPM somewhat compared to stock, but it shouldn't be that big a deal unless you like pulling hard at idle speeds.
  3. I doubt that crankcase pressure has anything to do with it. The pressure in the crankcase pushing down on the surface of the oil in the sump is going to generate a ton more force than what you'd see at the other end of the oil passages, which if anything would just push the oil back up the pickup into the filter. And if there was enough pressure building in the crankcase to move oil around the engine, it would probably have started leaking oil out of more than just the valve cover gasket by now, just like Pete's engine. But it's still worth checking to see if your CCV system is clogged, you do kinda want that working and it's had issues on every Jeep I've owned to date. My guess would be a leak in the oil passageway from pump to filter that's somehow allowing air back into the system, but I would also expect it to be leaking oil if that were the case, and if that's not an issue... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. Lots of the equipment in our fleet does that too, take a few seconds for oil pressure to build, and nothing seems to suffer too much from it.
  4. If you've got summer heat in your part of Colorado, that'll kill your batteries pretty quick. We lost a handful in our 40°C heat wave up here, not quite as bad as if it was -40, but still. I don't know about where anyone else is, but I've had a couple salespeople tell us that all the batteries we're getting through our shop suppliers are exactly the same, from the same plant, just with different stickers depending on who goes and picks them up. We get the Mopar stickers because for whatever reason they come in cheaper than the other industrial supply chains. Just the plain Jane lead acid. Five years seems to be pretty normal service life unless they get murdered by someone leaving them out to discharge in the cold... which can happen in less than three weeks on a modern vehicle with keyless entry, push-button start, etc. Probably my favourite thing about driving early 90's vehicles at this point is that they actually shut everything off when you turn the key off.
  5. Maybe a blast from the past for some of you guys, but Les Stroud, otherwise known as Survivorman, has a youtube channel. Most of his content is just uploads of his production TV series, but there is some youtube-only content and it's all pretty good stuff, all legit survival info. https://www.youtube.com/c/SurvivormanLesStroud The directors commentaries on the shows are pretty cool if you're a fan of the original show, and I think only a YouTube thing. The Bigfoot series is interesting as well, in that he approaches everything with a very open mind and just kinda touches on every little aspect of the subject without trying to lead anyone in any particular direction. One of his latest series is Wild Harvest, where he takes a professional chef out with him and they make gourmet meals with wild edibles, which is a very interesting change from how he normally presents things. He's also got some of his music there, a lot of which is featured in the shows, and some personal vlog-type things. Also a bunch of much more in-depth stuff on a lot of the survival skills that he doesn't have the time to get into in the full show. Lots of cool stuff.
  6. This truck was built in the province that bred zip ties n bias plies. Don’t really think there’s a ton more to be said about it than that.
  7. Well, what's the better option, an affordable half-done project, or one like the below, fully built, asking $15k+, where, if the fact the license plate is self-tappered straight to the middle of the tailgate is any indication of the quality of the build, you're likely finding yourself redoing half the work anyway? https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/strathcona-county/1990-comanche/1598137948?undefined I'd say for evey one registered there's going to be at least another one languishing somewhere. How many Jeep enthusiasts have a yard of projects they've never gotten to? But I guess condition on those isn't necessarily going to be a guarantee.
  8. Not necessarily relevant to the issue at hand but to the discussion, for anyone who might stumble across this thread from a Google search or something; when I swapped out my first MJ’s original distributor a long time ago I also had a heck of a time getting the new one indexed. I recently reused that “new” distributor in another project, and same thing, but during the process this time I noticed the oil pump drive and rotor drive are clocked differently relative to each other than they were on the original unit. Just something to watch out for with aftermarket parts. To the issue at hand, an intermittent total shutdown with a no-crank could potentially be a crank sensor issue, yes. The giveaway would be complete loss of spark. I’d look carefully at the wiring to it and make sure it’s properly seated in its hole before replacing it. You should be able to see a small a/c voltage coming off it while disconnected and cranking the engine over if it’s working properly. As far as the fuel pump is concerned, when you turn the key on it should run for a few seconds then shut off.
  9. You'd need a wiring harness and ECU to run it, same as if it were in the truck. If you want to run it long enough to break it in, you'll need a radiator as well. Unless you have a stand already I don't see much advantage to doing it separately, either, other than the novelty of running an engine outside of the truck.
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