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About gogmorgo

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    MJ Maniac

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    Jasper NP

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  1. Good luck finding that info. The MJ is a ton more rigid than competing light trucks from the era, but there's still some. I initially had my Leer topper about an inch from my cab, and never made contact, but I wasn't wheeling it. Eventually I moved it back a touch so I could get my hand back there from the outside to unlatch the pass-through window to the topper, so I could open that and juggle the MJ's slider window open in the event I locked myself out.
  2. gogmorgo

    Metric tonne springs?

    The factory metric ton springs didn't come with the military wrap. That was just part of the General Spring group order deal. The only differences in height between factory springs were that the 4x4 models sit about an inch higher. So a 4x4 metric ton spring pack will lift an orginally 2wd truck about an inch, but that's not inherent to it being a metric ton spring. You'd get the same out of good condition factory regular-load 4x4 springs.
  3. gogmorgo

    No Tail Lights

    Yeah, push in like 1/16" or so and twist counter clockwise. Some dielectric greases seem to harden up over time, which can make it sticky.
  4. gogmorgo

    The Littlest Comanche

    Our of curiosity the other day I fired up the MJ mostly just to see if it would start. After a week or so of temperatures dropping to -40 overnight, at -15°F, it cranked over kinda slow but still fired up. The Juke is still a brick tho...
  5. gogmorgo

    Diesel Cherokee Wagoneer Holy Grail?

    That 21-slot grill was factory on '84-'85 Waggys. They didn't adopt the four-eyed look we all think of when we hear Wagoneer until '86.
  6. gogmorgo

    New Tires

    Bearing in mind that it's been almost two years since my AT2's on the MJ died (deer sleeping on the highway... ribs through sidewalls, it wasn't pretty) and the MJ and ZJ are different vehicles, and the fact that there hasn't been much in the way of bare pavement since I installed the Grabbers on it, so far my impression is that the ATx is an improvement over the AT2. The sidewalls are much stiffer, the sidewall lugs are more aggressive but still visually subtle, and I'm guessing the compound is different because the ATx seems to have much more grip on ice, and the tread patterns aren't all that different.
  7. gogmorgo

    No Tail Lights

    To change the taillight bulbs, you need to remove the screws holding in the taillight lens assembly (two in the light and two more you need to drop the tailgate to get to). Then the socket should twist out of the lens assembly, probably while pressing a tab on them... it's been a while. Then the bulb itself will twist out of the socket, press it in gently and turn. As Pete said, make sure the bulbs are correct for what should be in the sockets. But personally, for a problem with parking, tail, and dash lights, there's one major connecting point between them, it's a known point of failure, and coincidences usually aren't. I'd take a good look at the headlight switch while you've got the dash apart to change the cluster bulbs.
  8. gogmorgo

    New Tires

    I just put the Grabber A/Tx on my ZJ. Seems like a sturdy enough tire, with a fairly stiff sidewall. They don't drown out the d35's howls on the highway, and they have excellent traction on snow and ice... if that's a concern in Florida... But I'm pretty happy with them. This is the sort of topic where you can walk into a room of six people and get ten answers. For just something cheap to get around with, Craigslist etc might not be the worst way to find a decent used set, but not all cheap tires are created (or worn down) equally, and those four tiny patches of rubber are also the only things holding you on the road, so they are kinda important.
  9. Re: the 242 vs 231 shifter. It's correct that it's the same parts apart from the bezel and gate. I didn't initially swap the gate because the donor I was pulling parts from was super hantavirusy, and I didn't want to spend more time in there than necessary. There are people who will tell you you don't need the shift gate, and I've even had someone laugh at me for suggesting the two were different parts (despite showing them photos and parts manuals... stupid gonna stupe) and yes I was able to get all the 242's positions with the 231 gate, but it was a major pain in the @$$. Basically to get full-time in the 231 gate you had to pull it all the way to the 4hi stop, then move over and pull it back just a hair and half the time pull too far and end up in neutral, and going the other way, you'd hit the gate again before making the shift from neutral back to full-time. Ending up with your transfer case in neutral at highway speeds (I.e when I'd be most likely to use full-time) is something that you need to essentially stop to correct, hence it being a PITA. Sorta defeats the point of shift-on-the-fly if you have to slow to under 3mph. With the 242 shift gate, pulling it straight back till it stops gets you in full-time, as does pushing it forwards from neutral.
  10. gogmorgo

    Sway Bar Upgrade

    I've got one from a ZJ in my MJ. It's a little stiffer than the stock one. IIRC I grabbed the brackets and bushings from the ZJ and used end links off an XJ. Everything bolted right up. And to answer the "why" question, some people like myself think predictable handling is important in a daily driver. The original one is a bit of a compromise between roll resistance and flexibility, and isn't necessarily the best for trucks that don't always venture so far off the pavement, especially if they frequently carry tall loads, like a truck bed camper.
  11. I just put a set of General Grabber ATx in a 31x10.5x15 on my 4.0/ax15 ZJ, with 3.55's. It's not awful, but it was a noticeable change as far as acceleration is concerned. I think 4.10's would be a bit much, but I did briefly consider a set of 3.73 axles from a 5.2. I just haven't been able to find a set for under $300 each without just buying a second ZJ... And I don't really want to do that, haha. And I'm sorta enjoying not having to shift out of first until the other side of the intersection now. But I digress. I was already convinced in the power of the winter tire, but after going from the non-winter ATs I had to the winter-rated Grabbers, I now have about the same traction on snow and ice in 2wd as I did before in 4x4, possibly more, open diff and all. I really wasn't expecting such a huge difference either as I saw.
  12. I had a similar sort of leak after cruising over a deer a couple years ago. I didn't initially notice after checking it over, but a friend pointed out the drip. It didn't seem like that big a leak so I wasn't super concerned, but upon closer inspection I saw a hairline crack running along the back end of the tank. My insurance paid for a new tank, $0 deductible because wildlife, but it was a six-month process for the body shop to figure out whether or not they were allowed to proceed and then track down a tank (Rock Auto, like seriously), and I'm pretty sure they fired the claims person who agreed to cover it instead of just writing off my 26-year-old 330,000-mile truck part-way trough the process. :/
  13. gogmorgo

    Factory push bar ?

    So were the OE ones only attached to the thin sheet metal bumper without any additional bracing? I mean I know the factory stuff is almost just decorative due to needing to survive crash testing, but that doesn't seem very solid at all.
  14. gogmorgo

    it's cold out there!! be prepared!

    12" is a lot in one dump almost anywhere I've been. I'd still be out in it, but whether I'm driving or on snowshoes is a toss-up, depending on the snow itself. Wet and heavy like you would've got, I probably would be driving, but in hard-as-rock drifts, not so much.