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gogmorgo

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About gogmorgo

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    MJ Maniac

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    Jasper NP

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  1. Some pumps are definitely louder than others. I put a Delphi in one of mine and after it came loose from the crude side-of-the-road hose-clamp hold in, and started pulling fuel from the middle of the tank (nothing screws with you quite so much as running out of gas at 1/2 tank...) it got changed out for a Bosch unit. The Bosch is much quieter.
  2. Used to think Channellocks were the cat’s @$$ until I discovered them. There’s still a handful of cases where the Channellocks are ahead, but for turning bolt heads you’ll have a tough time finding a set of pliers better than the Knipex.
  3. gogmorgo

    Gone fishing

    I had a bit of an uncomfortable moment last summer with my 2wd on a gravel launch. I’d only backed down it so I didn’t have to carry my canoe and gear further than needed (17’ canoe, solo). But with no parking brake, stick shift, and an open diff, I ended up sliding back towards the lake with the one wheel spinning forwards on my first go. Had to think about that one a bit. I need to get out on a lake again soon.
  4. gogmorgo

    Tool Talk

    Something I figured I should share with the group. I’ve struggled with finding good non-messy ways of filling things like diffs and manual transmissions inside the vehicle, where a gear oil bottle doesn’t quite have clearance to get inverted and squirted into the diff. This “lower unit pump” is a boat thing. Something to do with outboards I think, but I’m not a boat guy. But basically it turns an oil bottle into a pump dispenser. You choose the combination of straws to fit the oil bottle, screw the pump onto it, push the hose to wherever you need it, and pump until it’s up to the correct level. There’s a couple adapters in the pack for getting the hose onto something on the boat motor but they’re not needed for filling diffs. There’s other tools to do the same job, but this is ~$10, you don’t need to worry about transferring oil between containers, and when I’m done it sits in an old oil jug with a hole in it for the hose, so it drains down without making a mess.
  5. Cruiser54.com There’s a tip about valve cover baffles.
  6. The way the crankcase vent system works is the one vent is attached plumbed to the intake manifold, behind the throttle, and the other end is plumbed to the intake ducting, pre-throttle but post-filter. The higher vacuum of the intake manifold draws out crankcase gasses, which then get replaced by clean air from the air filter. If you’ve got an issue with the vent system, combustion gasses and oil vapour can get pushed back into the air box, gumming up the filter, throttle body, etc., and the condition is aggravated by excessive blow-by. Putting a filter directly on the valve cover separates it from the intake, but doesn’t address the problem with the vent system (or the blow-by). On the other hand, if the vent system is working but you’ve installed an aftermarket air cleaner that doesn’t have a convenient location to attach the vent hose, you’ll want to find an alternative way to get a supply of clean, filtered air into the crankcase. Hence the filter on the valve cover. Pressure needs to be vented from the crankcase. It can be left essentially open, any attachment to the intake blocked off, although the oil vapour will make a mess in the engine bay. A catch can addresses that issue, but will need periodically emptied. Depending on your local emissions regulations, it may also be difficult to pass if you choose that route. Burning combustion waste gasses and oil vapours in the engine is better than releasing them straight to atmosphere. But you do need some form of crankcase vent. There will always be some amount of blowby even on the newest engine, not to mention pressure changes in the crankcase due to changing temperatures, and if you don’t allow it a path to vent, it will find its own. It’s also not good to introduce unfiltered air to the crankcase, and it will always get pulled in from outside as the engine cools.
  7. Interesting. I worked at that gas station in the mid 2000’s after they fixed the slab, and pumping diesel was frequently an ordeal. We had a big pump mostly meant for filling heavy trucks, so the nozzle didn’t physically fit into older fillers like the gas nozzle would. It wasn’t an issue for the locals because they’d all punched out the fill necks on older trucks to allow for the big nozzle, but occasionally you’d get a truck in from the city with an undamaged filler and we’d really struggle. VW TDI’s were obnoxious because there’s a little valve you have to push with the nozzle to open an additional tank vent and they’d still only take fuel at about 1/3 squeeze. Then with a newer generation (2006ish?) VW did away with the valve and they just wouldn’t really take the diesel very quickly. There was one guy with a smart ForTwo as well that was a bugger, because it wouldn’t fit the nozzle into it more than about 1/8”. And trickling in the diesel was a PITA because if you went too slow the pump assumed it was leaking and shut down. Now I’m kinda curious about parking things on blocks. Trucks with service bodies on them are almost always a pain, because the fill necks were never routed very well, damn near horizontal in most cases, and the result was diesel constantly trying to flow back out instead of down. Turning the nozzle upside-down in the filler somehow helped with that, but you still couldn’t put it in too quickly without tripping the nozzle shutoff. I should try it out with the service truck at work next time I’m filling it.
  8. The quickest and easiest way to test it would probably be to park the truck on a couple blocks on one side or the other when filling. That reminds me of something else that probably has nothing to do with it. My parents had a late ‘90’s GM minivan in the early 2000’s, and the gas station in town was a bit run down and the concrete pad was cracked and tilted a bit on the one side. There was a thing that would happen if we filled up that particular van on the cracked side, but not on the other, more level side of the pump. But I’m not 100% on what the thing was. It didn’t spit gas, though... I think it might have been more that it wouldn’t fill past 3/4 tank. My memory’s real fuzzy there... we got rid of the van more than 15 years ago.
  9. My long bed used to spew gas at me when it clicked off. It would take fuel as fast as you shoved it, and you could hear air rushing out that vent tube, the “secondary fill tube” if you will. Then once it got full it would kick the pump off, then a gush of fuel would come up out of the vent tube. Almost as if there was an air pocket that somehow compressed and then once the pump shut off it released, and there was less pressure head in the vent tube than the filler neck so that’s what blew out. For me filling it on a slower notch seemed to reduce the effect enough to stop the outward gush of fuel, but there was still some that burped up the vent tube after the pump shut off, just not enough it splashed back out. I never really thought much about it until I saw this thread, which inspired me to check out a photo or two of an MJ fuel tank to try to see if there even was somewhere to trap air. And I think there is a reasonable explanation. That’s my MJ tank next to... the wrong tank for an MJ. I thought it was an XJ tank at the time but now I’m thinking maybe it’s a ZJ tank. Either way it was a real long saga that’s not relevant. You can kinda tell in the photo that the tank vents are recessed. A new tank photo makes it obvious. So if that’s the case, when the tank gets full, the vents will have gas push up and trigger the rollover vents with air still trapped at the top of the tank. If the rush of fuel into the tank right next to the filler vent tube is enough to keep fuel from pushing back up the vent once the fuel level rises high enough to stop allowing air back out, then the air probably would pressurize, and act like a spring once the pressure was released. That or the vent tube is a restriction for fuel pushing back out compared to it pumping in, so that’s what compresses the air pocket and then it keeps pushing out the vent anyhow? I’m not sure. I’m pretty sure the rollover vents are clogged because it’s a right pain in the cunning linguals to put gas into it with the stupid sealy-thing filler nozzles in California. That or they were only ever intended to account for fuel vapours, not fill venting. There’s also a pretty good chance I’m somehow overfilling the tank, because I know for a fact it’ll take 25 gallons from still not quite empty. My shortbed still burps a bit, but as far as I’ve noticed doesn’t splash like the long bed did. Other than the smaller tank size, the one other difference I can think of is the long bed has the typical driver’s side sag to a much greater degree than the shortbed does. This would put the fill neck slightly lower, making for a bigger air pocket in the tank? Maybe? I don’t really have a good answer unfortunately, just trying to make sense of something that doesn’t. I could be way off base.
  10. I’d press out the studs and put in shorter ones before cutting them down if that was needed. I don’t have a good answer about the control arms, though. I think most either go with spacers or wheels with less offset.
  11. I learned to take that lesson seriously that the hard way a few years back. I always gave anything I put on jack stands a decent bounce before getting underneath, so I probably got a bit complacent when nothing ever went wrong. So this one time, and I don’t entirely remember what I was doing with it, I had my Lada up on jack stands in its usual dirt parking spot. I knew jack stands on dirt wasn’t the best idea, but it was dry as a bone and the Lada doesn’t weigh a huge amount (still enough to seriously injure someone) and the bounce test went okay so I figured all was well. So I spent most of the afternoon underneath but it started raining so I went inside for the night. I didn’t really think much about it, and it was nice and sunny again the next morning and I went right back at it. Pretty sure I was only under it for a minute or so before the ground gave out under all four stands and they all tipped over. Fortunately I was only under the front axle and the thing fell backwards, but when it hit the ground the front bumper came within a few inches of my face. I barely had enough time to close my eyes. I got real lucky there. Big wake up call too. Was it last summer or the summer before, there was a moderate earthquake in California. It didn’t really affect me as far away as I am, but the thing I remember was an article about the first casualty they found, a few days after the quake. An older man had a Willys Jeep up on a high-lift jack, and it tipped over. The photos in the article had a couple crushed cinder blocks right next to the Jeep, looked like it landed on them and they broke apart. The guy probably had been getting away with it his whole life, 30, 40, 50 years even, right up until he didn’t. Whether the Jeep landing on him killed him right away or just pinned him for too long before someone went looking, it doesn’t make much difference. Logs roll, wood crushes and splits; bricks, cinder blocks, and concrete blow apart; asphalt flexes, things bounce and slide when they land on steel... everything that can go wrong will go wrong, usually at the worst time. The jack stands I use have a safety pin. They’re Michelin branded, and I picked them up cheap at a chain store so I’m pretty sure they’re just offshore stuff with a fancy name, but the reason I got them was because of that safety pin. It’s a nice tight fit in the ratchet teeth, and while I don’t think it takes much or any of the weight off the pawl, it stops the upright part from moving far enough to disengage it. And yes, these were the stands that tipped on me. It’s like they say, any time you make something idiot-proof, the world comes up with a better idiot. Whatever you use as a safety catch device, you’ve got to make sure it’ll catch the vehicle no matter which way it tips, and have some plan in place to stop the vehicle from moving if it does land on it. You also need a part of the vehicle to land on it that won’t collapse. Rust can be dangerous here. I’m a big fan now of no more wheels off the ground than necessary. If I’ve got a pair of jackstands under it, the jack will still be under as well with some pressure on it still. Throwing a wheel under somewhere as well, but I prefer the backups to be holding some of the weight. I’ve used tree rounds, and chocked them, but a square chunk of wood is far better. Crosswise to the grain, and make sure it takes the weight before you trust it... softwoods are called “soft” for a reason. Don't take it for granted either that someone else made sure a vehicle was safe before getting underneath. I was under one at a junkyard that passed the bounce test when I discovered halfway into pulling the hitch that the one corner stand was sitting on the sidewall of the spare tire. There’s no telling how much air is in the spare, and if you got wiggling it and it blows out the sidewall or knocks the bead off, there’s no guarantee it’ll stay put on the rest of the stands as it shifts. Also, the stand is only ever as good as the ground underneath it.
  12. I’ll second the coolant level being a pretty major player here. In my experience the system only holds about three gallons so being down by half that is a lot. I’d also caution adding straight distilled water to an empty overflow tank. Repeatedly blowing and changing rad hoses on the side of a Saskatchewan highway at -20°F before factoring in the howling wind isn’t something I’d wish on anyone else. That’s also a lesson in proper container labelling, but we’re getting off topic. You should be fine for now, especially this time of year, while you try to sort out any other cooling system issues but seeing as you’re in the Midwest you’ll definitely want to make sure you’ve got a good antifreeze mix in there come September. Having a proper mix is also beneficial for corrosion resistance, and general cooling system longevity. It also makes it easier to find and identify leaks, as the coolant leaves residue where water just evaporates. But yes, I’ve always just filled everything as best as I can, fired up the engine with the rad cap off, and slowly added coolant as necessary. I tell myself having the front wheels higher than the rear by 6” or so is helpful if safe and convenient but I typically fill them however the Jeep was parked without issues. Assuming the system doesn’t leak and the rad cap is in good shape, any air left over will collect at the cap and then get pushed out the overflow and vent to atmo as the system warms up and pressurizes.
  13. I don’t know if the MJ or XJ ever got CV shafts from the factory. Mine are just the cheap parts store ones that were sold as fitting my ‘91 MJ (and they do) but I’m pretty sure they’re intended as a ZJ shaft.
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