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Everything posted by gogmorgo

  1. Yeah that was also a bit of a concern. I'd rather have the sled loaded nose down than up with skis on the wheelwell, so I'll definitely have a tape measure with me while shopping. The inner enginerd needed some whiteboard time. Two feet for bed height is approximate, a little lower than where it sits I think but tough to say without loading up a sled, 10' overall length is also approximate. But the 30° ramp angle that results isn't terrible, and a slide-out ramp extension would be easy and just make the angle better. Also it would mean you aren't just slamming the back of the track down once it finally tips down. I'm guessing break over point wouldn't have the sled more than a foot or two behind the loaded position. Probably a dumb idea and I haven't even looked at them yet but how bad would it wreck the tailgate hinges using them as a pivot point? I should go do something practical before having more dumb ideas.
  2. Hmm... And if you could pull a pin or something and have it drop down into a ramp, that's getting two birds stoned at once cause you wouldn't need to worry about the ramp taking off on you.
  3. Yeah that's my thinking. Definitely much easier to pick up the back end than the front of any sled I've messed around with. It'll be a couple weeks before I start looking at them, so I'll have to let you all know how it turns out.
  4. Just sitting on the tailgate, eh? I guess a longer track wouldn't be all that much extra weight hanging off the end, either.
  5. Well it depends on the sled. You would be looking at over 10 feet for the bigger models. One of my coworkers hauls his around with a deck on his 6.5' bed Tundra, although he's got a lot more cab length and weight balancing that out. And there's a lot of it hanging off the back end of the truck; that photo really doesn't do it justice, but I don't have a side shot on my phone.
  6. Yes, but the seals don't necessarily appreciate brake cleaner any more than the grease does.
  7. The long bed is not registered or in any condition to become that way any time soon unfortunately. Major rust repairs are currently underway but my landlord has been reprioritizing my projects and because it's not on the property right now it's been pushed to the bottom of the stack.
  8. I'm thinking about picking up a sled for this winter, and am wondering if anyone has hauled one in their MJ. Anyone bought or built a deck? What about a ramp? My main concern is how far it would hang off the end of my shortbed. The obvious answer is just trailer it behind the ZJ but then I've got to stash a trailer somewhere and I don't have space to do that at my place short of leaving it hooked up to a vehicle on the street...
  9. You want to be careful with the brake cleaner, don't want to wash the grease out of the bearings.
  10. That speed range is pretty typical tire balance, although I think you'd pretty well need a tire to start separating to make it anything I would describe as violent. Were the ujoints and trans mount done before or after you noticed the vibration?
  11. Cruiser54.com, one of his tips addresses the dash ground. I'd give the headlight switch a look if that doesn't help. I can't really see it causing anything more on the dash than just turning on dash lights if it goes bad, but it's also a known weak point that likes to melt harnesses.
  12. The current through the circuit is determined by the sum of the resistances. If you increase resistance without increasing voltage, it reduces the total current. As a rule resistance will generate heat (or some other form of work), however the conductor carrying the current will also dissipate the heat almost as effectively as it conductors electricity. In most cases by the time there's enough resistance to build enough heat quickly enough to damage components, the voltage drop will be already be obvious because the circuit has quit functioning as intended. I've seen plenty of corroded connectors in my line of work (wrenching on highway plow/sanders) and a decent number of burnt or melted ones as well, but I can't recall ever seeing one that was both corroded and melted. Most of the melted connectors I've seen have been for switches with movable contacts and high currents, like fan speed switches, that rely on spring tension to maintain their connection, which lessens as the switch ages, and the heat has clearly been generated within the switch rather than the connector. No signs of corrosion. I've seen a couple cases of melted connector pins randomly within a connector on an otherwise functioning circuit, but the heat is very localized, with the only evidence limited to the inside of the connector, just the area around the poor connection. The heat is conducted away pretty effectively by the wire. Again there's no obvious corrosion inside the connector, just melted plastic and burnt dielectric grease. The few other cases I've seen of overheated connectors to the point of significant damage have been down to exceeding intended current, either through a short-circuit or if something was added to a circuit, like extra lights. I've only encountered two cases of actual electrical fire. One was my MJ's headlight switch, again an aging movable contact switch under heavy load, a well-documented problem. The other was the main positive cable to a relay box controlling most of the functions of a vacuum truck, that rubbed the frame and shorted. Just because I find it interesting to point out, that last one did have circuit protection in the form of a type-2 (self resetting) circuit breaker which tested good, so it seems it didn't provide adequate cool-down time before resetting, and just pulse-width-modulated the accidental heating element until it caught fire. The cable wasn't switched so there's no telling how long it took to ignite; the truck had been parked for a few hours before someone noticed smoke and flames, although the operator said he didn't notice anything not working while it was running. I changed it out for a manual-reset breaker after replacing the burnt harness and relay box.
  13. Yeah, but that exemption was gone in the early '80's. Officially I think we were a year or two behind the US fed in adopting the requirements, but since most of the vehicles sold this side of the 49th were built for the US market anyhow, so we ended up with effectively the same adoption years.
  14. 100% chance a cat was original equipment. All passenger vehicles after '76 I believe, and light trucks after '80, give or take a year or two, but not 7 years.
  15. That's actually not bad at all, I was expecting more than that. I've been thinking a little more about weight recently after realizing my square tube rockers weigh about 75 lbs per side. 70 lbs here and there adds up in a hurry, and a guy starts wondering how solid his truck really needs to be. I've really been enjoying how light and nimble my 2wd 2.5 is in contrast to heavier trucks, or even my ZJ, but the bed's full of snow after this weekend's storm and the performance difference is very noticeable.
  16. Probably one of those dumb questions, but do you have a guesstimate at weights? I don't really see myself needing stiffeners for my planned use, but the chassis I'm building has over 300,000 miles on it so I'm open to the possibility of it not being at 100% original rigidity, but I also don't want to eat into payload ratings too much if I don't need to.
  17. I'd keep checking for vacuum leaks. The manifold gasket isn't uncommon, the bolts seem to like working themselves loose which can lead to a failed gasket, but check all the lines as well, you're dealing with 33 year old plastic components. A leaking head gasket is usually a cause, not a symptom. Typically they present with some very noticeable symptoms, cross contaminated fluids, pressure and bubbles in the cooling system, etc. You could do a compression test if you're really concerned, but I'll point out that I once had a 2.5 with a bad head gasket and hole in a piston, 20psi compression on that cylinder, and it ran and idled fine, just blew out all the contents of the cooling system both onto the ground and into the oil in pretty short order and only started running rough when it had dumped enough coolant to overheat.
  18. Open loop is essentially a "warm up" mode. It mostly just runs a bit rich, like the choke on a carb'ed engine. I would think 175°F would be enough to kick it into closed loop, but I'm just guessing on that.
  19. I'd be looking at the fan switch on that, could easily be a poor contact in it. That said I've seen failed fan speed resistor packs in other applications where the resistive coil untwisted itself and shorted against other coils, leading to some pretty strange behaviours. It's worth the five minutes it takes to pull it out and have a look at it.
  20. 50 years ago planes were a thing mostly just the wealthy could afford. Have you seen the planes the wealthy fly on today? They're not serving half-cans of coke, I'll tell you that much. This statue is a pun.
  21. No, it is true. Ohm's law. Current is voltage devided by resistance. I=V/R. Voltage in the circuit doesn't change, but increased resistance will reduce the current. This is why corroded contacts don't generate much in the way of heat, despite high resistance, they just block current operation. Loose connections are different. Impedance isn't the issue in a loose connection, it's the current arcing across the gap that generates the heat. Like a welder. If you touch both electrodes they'll probably make some heat due to the current passing through, but to weld properly you need to hold them apart slightly to create an arc, which generates the necessary heat. Like I said, point of pedancy. We both agree that the loose terminal is not a good thing.
  22. There should be factory wiring and a connector behind the dash somewhere, no?
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