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Everything posted by gogmorgo

  1. Is it like the GM ones that are secured with nylon that you need to melt out? Talk about pain in the butt...
  2. The crazy thing is that when I stripped the interior out of my parts XJ, with waaaay more rust (all passengers can participate in Flintstoning it along), it didn't even put up much of a fight. Pretty sure I got them all by hand. I did have one other bolt casualty on the MJ. Driver's side lower seatbelt bolt. With so much rocker gone around it, it had no chance. Total ball of rust, without even much of the Torx teeth left to grab, not just hella tight. We cut the carpet out from around it and then used the newfound space to cut the head off, just behind the seatbelt's plastic guard thing. Tons of meat left on it to weld on a nut when it comes time, and between the XJ and all the seatbelts I've robbed from junkyards, I've got tons of extras bolts.
  3. Doing some work on this thing for the first time in a long time. Too long. Got the interior stripped out of it, for the most part, to get started on fixing the rust. It's... not ideal, but still better than I expected. Since the rockers are gone completely, I'm getting square tube put in. Conveniently found a 14' length of 2x6 3/16-wall tube in a scrap pile. Instead of putting it up against the pinch seam like most people do, we're just going to butt it up against the inner rocker. There's almost no pinch seam left on the passenger side anyhow, so I'm not super concerned about it losing structure. I'm still going back and forth whether to just run it the length of the cab, or to extend it out under the bed to the wheelwell, but the 14' length leaves options there. I had picked up a replacement floor pan for the driver's side a while back, so that's going in as well, and the passenger side will need a couple patches. I'm not sure what the plan is for the bedsides yet. It's unclear whether they actually need fixing for the out of province inspection or not, but while the truck's parked at the welder's, it may as well happen. I may yet have to pull the dash to get the firewall padding pulled back, but we'll see. Like all projects, most of the weekend was spent trying to remove a single fastener. The driver's side inboard seat nut refused to come out. 3/8" impact got the stubborn front ones on the passenger side off, and the back nuts all came out easy, but this one just wouldn't go. We didn't want to risk setting the carpet on fire, which eliminated many options, and the fact it sits in a bit of a divot of compressed carpet meant we couldn't get at it really well. Eventually I came home and grabbed my 1/2" impact, and proceded to turn the hexagon into a circle. No bueno. many hours spent with an air chisel eventually got it spinning and off... Bad photo, but yeah... not a whole heck of a lot left of the nut. Or stud.
  4. Went for a quick paddle last night. Same small lake looking opposite directions.
  5. Pretty sure the 15x7 canyons are ZJ wheels. TJ canyons appear to be 15x8.
  6. We've got into the weeds on this. If your wheel bearing is still good, there's no need to replace it. Undoing the axle nut is a pain and so you're trying to avoid doing that. It's especially difficult to do without damaging the wheel bearing. Changing the ujoint without removing the axle nut is awkward but can be done. It's the most financially economical way to go about it. It'll probably be fine if the holes in the yokes aren't stretched out from rattling around, damage is unlikely if the ujoint caps are still around. If you can afford a new shaft and unit bearing, in my mind avoiding screwing around with the ujoint, axle nut, etc., is worth saving the time and hassle, but it's going to cost more money, obviously. Offhand I'll say your procedure is correct. The hub bolts are 12-point so require a socket if you don't have... I wanna say 12mm but maybe 13? Make sure you've got the correct size socket as 12-points can strip easily. Hitting them with a wire brush first to knock any dirt or loose rust off will help the a key sit properly. The bolts go into the hub from the back and the threads are exposed on the outer side of the hub, hit those with penetrating oil first, you want to be able to reuse the bolts. Getting the hub out of the bore in the knuckle might not be easy either. You might be able to get a chisel in behind the ears (where the bolts thread in) but I found a trick online, where you use a bolt to jam against something behind the hub, (possibly inside the ujoint yoke?) then fire up the truck and turn the steering wheel, using the power steering to push the hub out. Be careful doing this, as the far wheel on the ground could pull the truck off a precarious jack stand. The only bearings relevant here are the hub assembly/unit bearing/wheel bearing/whatever you want to call it. The bearings have their own seals, but you shouldn't have an issue with those. You do want to worry about the seal in the axle tube. It's down by the diff. Be careful sliding the axle shaft out of the diff to avoid damaging it. Replacing it means popping open the diff, pulling the axle shaft on the other side, and removing the diff carrier and bearings. I would leave it alone unless you've got signs of leaking, which would show as gear oil coming out the end of the axle tube before you pull the shaft. It's worth mentioning that you will get a small amount of gear oil out of the diff when you pull the axle shaft. Not a big issue, just top up the diff when you're done. Jacking up the side of the axle you're pulling will minimize oil loss, because gravity.
  7. gogmorgo

    rustiest MJ

    It is pretty sad. Even my ZJ, the nicest in my small fleet, is a little beyond "a touch of rust around the edges". And it got hit by a fresh splash of road salt again today. To all the locals the snow today would be nothing, but the unfortunate part of being in a resort town is all the tourists who've never driven in snow in their lives, in rental cars with garbage for tires, means the plows and sanders come back out.
  8. Yeah... Your trouble is removing the axle from the unit bearing, yes? If you're breaking tools, there aren't going to be many non-destructive methods of undoing the nut. The one I did successfully undo had a 3' breaker bar on it, braced by another guy with a 4' lining bar, and we still had an oxyacetylene torch on it to get some heat into the nut, which will cook the grease out of the bearings. I'm with Dirty on attempting the ujoint. The point of changing the shaft is to avoid having to get the old one out of the wheel bearing. If you hang onto the bearing, you need to get the shaft out of it. A new ujoint is probably all you need, and it's like $30. With careful handling you might even be able to change it without pulling the shaft, but that's definitely not the easy way. But with the shaft out, having the wheel bearing on the shaft shouldn't be a huge obstacle to changing it on a workbench, or tailgate, or wherever. I can't say I've had a problem with the ch8220/8221, I've probably only got about 30,000miles on them. Both boots are torn though. Don't know when specifically it happened, but the truck's been through some deep mud, pushed deep snow/ around, chunks of ice, been through brush, etc, so it's not a huge surprise. I would still say it's a worthwhile upgrade, especially for just a daily driver. The advantage of CVs over ujoints is the Constant Velocity. At high steering angles, the ujoints force the wheels to accelerate and decelerate every rotation, which leads to a feeling of wobbling, the steering wheel jerks around, etc. There's none of that at all with the CV shafts. Ironically after the talk of ZJ cv shafts, I've got to point out that my ZJ has ujoints, not CV's. It doesn't really look like the shafts have been changed, unless whoever did it bought used shafts. Must be a base model thing I'm guessing, along with the AX15 and np231.
  9. The other thing about running water in a cheap air-line quick connect is that they don't seem particularly resistant to rust, which can seize up the slidey bit. Especially with mineral- (or turtle poop)-heavy water, even a microscopic drop could lead to rust.
  10. Big ship would be my guess, if it's an actual turbocharger. Part of me isn't convinced it's not someyhing else that only looks like a turbo.
  11. When you say later, I'm assuming you're still only refering to the Renix clusters?
  12. Part of this repairability thing is cost of parts vs labour. In most cases a component like a transmission is going to be cheaper to purchase rebuilt or even brand new, vs the cost of labour to have a shop repair it. The shop gets the customer out the door faster and doesn't have to charge them as much. Manufactures know this and it's just anticipated no one is cracking a trans just to replace a couple $30 bearings. There's also less liability on the part of the shop in case something happens, and they don't have the customer upset with them when something completely unrelated that didn't get replaced in the trans $#!&s the bed a few months later. Just more crap from our society that would rather toss stuff and get new than fix things. The other thing is that the vast majority of vehicle owners aren't enthusiasts. To them, it's just a tool that gets them from a to b that they don't even care enough about to not drive it into other things.
  13. I can't speak for the way the Chevy fuel lines work, but generally quick disconnects have a couple o-rings in the connector. Sometimes it's easy to lose them as well.
  14. gogmorgo

    tallest MJ?

    Well yeah, what's better than 95° approach and departure angles?
  15. ^^^ and some sort of speedometer confirmation as well. With stock gears, 35mph should be nowhere close to screaming in third... especially not with larger than stock tires.
  16. Yeah, they're distorted thread nuts, so in theory when you reuse them it stretches the threads out, and they quit grabbing quite so hard. In reality you can use them a few times before it's a serious problem. The other concern is that the worn threads will lead to more preload on the wheel bearing at the same torque. I don't think I've seen a new shaft either that doesn't come with a nut.
  17. gogmorgo

    rustiest MJ

    I'll play. Just dropped it off at our welder's place on the way to work this morning, we'll be looking at putting some square tube in instead of the, um... air. Don't be fooled... anywhere you see paint is the outer rocker, anywhere there's rust is the inner falling apart. and that's just the rockers... The bedsides are going, I'll probably get some heavy plate welded in there. The floors are still solid enough to pass an inspection... somehow.
  18. This is true... My 2.5L spends a lot of time climbing hills in 3rd.
  19. Axle shafts on both sides and unit bearings. I used the SurTrack CV shafts and Timken bearings, picked them up from rockauto in a close out sale. I'm not 100% on whether or not the earlier knuckle/brake/hub combo is completely the same in setup as my later style... I know the parts aren't interchangeable between them, but I haven't spent much time with Renix-era stuff. The first one I did I got a junkyard shaft, and the yard cut out the knuckle for me, and I used copious heat to undo that one's nut. The nut on my truck I used a cutoff wheel in a grinder and made a slot down the end of the shaft far enough it released enough tension I could get the nut off. If the tip of an uncut shaft looks like a big O from the end, my slot made it look like this: Ø. Fair warning, I did cut out a bit of the shoulder of the hub, where the wheel mounts, trying to get all the way down to the base of the nut, so you might want to minimize that if you do go that route. I also broke several tools trying to undo the axle nut the first time before finally saying @#$% it and cutting it off.
  20. You shouldn't need your foot to the floor to maintain 60mph, so I doubt not having the throttle absolutely wide open is at fault here. Have you pulled the intake tube off yet to look at what the throttle plate is actually doing? 18-19 mpg is what I would consider reasonably normal for an MJ, depending on driving conditions. Some would consider it good, especially with a lift and larger tires. If you're concerned about it or noticed a sudden drop in mpg, regular tune-up items like plugs, wires, cap, & rotor are things to consider. Cleaning up all engine grounds could be helpful as well, but you may be herding cats trying to eek more fuel economy out of it.
  21. Sounds like the brake pedal is released and just the brakes are stuck on? I've usually been able to release stuck drum brakes by smacking the wheel with a hammer. Use a rubber mallet at first if you've got one, or a piece of wood to protect the wheel if you've got to use a bigger hammer. Once they're released, pop the drum off to make sure everything is kosher in there. Sometimes you can free up the brakes and they'll be fine, other times they'll just stick again. Parking brakes are usually not too bad because they tend to get jammed on much harder than a normal brake application while driving, as opposed to sticking on because the brake hardware is a ball of rust... but you never know.
  22. The one issue I have with cab clearance is that one of the 2x4's is bending down towards it. I don't know if it's warping with changes in humidity, or if the canoe strapped down is bending it too much, or if I just chose a crappy piece of wood. I've been debating replacing that side, and I'm thinking about swapping out both top rails either for longer 2x4's or possibly using 2x6's. Since the above photo, I've also added some cross-bracing/gussets. It was fine parked, but the rack got wobbly on the highway after I strapped down the canoe. I also did some proof-of-concepts on paddle racks to attach to the lower side rails, to put the paddles in the largely dead space over the wheelwells, but never really got something I was happy with. The top one is a 1-1/2" hole drilled through a chunk of 2x4 then cut in two, and the lower one is a couple of those screw-in yard tool holders, both with short bungee cords to hold them in place. Either option was okay-ish for holding a single paddle, but I wanted to get more than one paddle in the same spot, and that wasn't really working out. Without the cab to worry about I would make the frame much wider, probably put it right up against the inside of the bed rails. You don't realize how much narrower the roof is than the bed until you run some vertical pieces up it... I didn't want the rack hanging wider than the roof, especially not right above where my head goes as I'm getting in. A buddy of mine has a commercial canoe rack on his X-Trail that has the cross bar just above the rear edge of the back door, and I pegged my forehead on it every time I opened the door last weekend, whether I was getting in or not. Something else that I would do in hindsight... Figure out how many 6" carriage bolts I absolutely need and only buy that many. For whatever reason they cost more than double what a 4" would at our local hardware store, which I didn't figure out until after the fact because they don't have obvious prices on the bulk bins. I just got all 6" for easier counting and ended up paying a ton extra just to cut 2" off most of the bolts...
  23. I can't really get over 11 feet of wheelbase and only a 5' bed. That J6 concept with the 6' bed looks pretty good but it's on the JLU chassis as it sits so won't be anywhere near as capable as the JT in terms of towing/payload. Unfortunately I don't really see them modifying the JT platform to accomplish a less-cab-more-bed version for what they see as a tiny market based on other truck sales... Although if they do release an extended(ish) cab variant to that J6 that would use the JT's 5' bed on the JLU chassis, and then use that cab to accomplish a 6 to 7' bed on the JT chassis, that would build a pretty competent set of off-road and work-truck versions, with the regular crewcab/short bed JT around for bread and butter, and only one extra cab and bed designed and being popped out with no extra chassis redevelopment. Not that they'd actually do that...
  24. I'd be willing to bet that there's a higher percentage of MJs still out on the road than other competitive trucks. Simply due to the availability of the other trucks, if something untoward happens, it's far more likely an s10 or ranger or whatever will get scrapped and replaced with another one off Craigslist etc, even by an enthusiast, but an MJ isn't as easily replaced, and there are many stories here of MJs being pieced back together after having been written off, or the engine getting rebuilt after it craps the bed, whatever. And I doubt there are as many semi-abandonned S10s getting dragged out of someone's yard and getting out back on the road... really, when was the last time you heard of someone going on a 12-hour round trip to pick up a $700 '91 2wgeel-drive 4-banger s10 that doesn't run so well with some rust around the edges? Cause I've literally done that. I see lots of other examples of it as well, although not necessarily with as much driving involved, here and on MJ Facebook groups. Admittedly there's some bias in my observations as I'm not part of any other truck groups, so I can't really say what S10 or whatever enthusiasts are doing... but still. There's also more appeal to the 2wd MJ as well because it's so easily converted to 4x4.
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