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About Co-MAAAN-cheee

  • Rank
    Comanche Fan

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  • Location
    Bremerton, wa
  • Interests
    Right now its my Comanche.

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  1. I have a 1988 with 4.0 and auto trans. 140k miles. No modifications. I've had it for several years. I don't put a lot of miles on her. Did pretty much all of cruser54s tips. Even the c101 delete. I think I replaced almost every sensor. She's been running great for 2 years. For the past few months the engine dies without warning. Always happens while driving. Usually at slow speed in a parking lot. No rough running or any other symptoms. Just turns off. It'll start right back up every time then won't happen again for days or weeks. I think it might be happen while braking, but, its always a panic moment so not certain. I have noticed a loud noise coming from the fuel pump in hot weather. The engine has that common rough sound at idle. most think its a bad lifter, but, nothing has changed related to that since I bought it. Ideas for What should I check first?
  2. The cable broke on mine yesterday. here's how I fixed it. This procedure replaces the cable with a piece of coat hanger wire about 7 inches long. Requires a hack saw, Drill bit slightly bigger than the coat hanger wire, needle noes pliers. 1. Remove the t-handle from the bracket 2. Remove any remaining cable from the t-bar and discard 3. Drill a hole through the square rod on the t-handle about 1/4 inch from the end. 4. Cut the plastic housing (looks like a space ship) about 1/4 inch from the L bracket (where the two screws go in) with a hack saw. 5. Remove the cable sleeve retaining the bulb end of cable sleeve, then widen the hole in the bulb end with the drill bit. 6. Insert the square rod through the plastic bracket then fish about one inch of hanger wire through the hole and twist to secure it in place. 7. fish the wire through the old bulb end 8. install this new assembly into the truck taking care to fish the wire through the hole in the lever and seat the bulb end into it's metal bracket 9. Twist the wire to secure it onto the lever 10. Might require a little bending to ensure it moves smoothly Working great in my truck. Took me less than an hour.
  3. I have a 88. I recently replaced the bulb sockets for the turn signals. After I noticed that when my flashers are on the back light on the stereo led dims in unison. then a couple of days ago I was using the tape deck while charging my phone from the lighter and the radio fuse (it was 15amp) burned out. I did all of cruzers electrical stuff last year except for the connector block under the air box. C101 elimination, new ground under dash, everything. When I replaced the bulb sockets I cleaned the connector under the air box. Honestly I'm not certain the dimming wasn't happening before I worked on the lights. I'd sure appreciate some advice on what to check. I'm no pro, but, I have a multi meter and know how to solder. I'm tempted to run a ground just for the radio and put the lighter on its own fuse. Ideas?
  4. I did mine like cruizer, the first photo. I was soaking my air filter with oil. After the mod I just get a very slight bit of oil. My engine has 135k miles. I'm sure it will need to be rebuilt soon, maybe around 220k miles. ;)
  5. Google steelman chassis ear. I bought ste6600. It has 6 alligator clips with microphones you can attach all around your vehicle and listen to them while driving. I have 4 cars and have accurately located several noises. Awesome tool.
  6. This will be my final post on this. Got my truck back from the shop and its running great. I'm sure that many of you reading this aren't prepared and/or willing to complete a total rebuild of a rear axle and therefore need to hire a professional. For me I've found that doing lots of research online and engaging in a thoughtful conversation with my trusted shop leads to many successes. Owning and operating an auto shop for 20 years doesn't require a person to be dishonest or incompetent and knowing the person in your community more often than not ensures honest dealing. A person wouldn't last long in business repeatedly cheating their neighbors. Certainly be sure to research the shop, ask around, Google them, sign up for angies list. Also, as to rebuilding a Dana35. Wikipedia says this about the Dana 35h It is "reliable in day-to-day street use, but notoriously the opposite when worked hard." My father runs Dana 35 in his wrangler and had been v off roading for years, and he know lots of folks in Yuma, az off roading with Dana 35. If keeping your truck original is important to you and/or your aren't going to push it hard there's nothing wrong with Dana 35.
  7. Not taking it personally. I too hope this serves a greater audience. Not everyone shares the same goals.
  8. Jeep Driver: I think I understand where you are coming from. I'm coming from a different set of values and experience. Since you've invested so much time to help me understand your perspective I thought I would take a moment to share as best I can. I've enjoyed working on my truck, but, I enjoying having and driving it more. I bought it to restore to what I call "Good from a far, but, far from good" street driver. I have spend over $13K so far and I couldn't sell it for $5K. I'm not worried about the loss of capital/equity. I paid cash that I could afford. However, I'm not going to buy the best of the best and I'm patiently repairing things as they come up and doing it as thoughtfully as I can. I'm not going to take it off road. It's just too pretty for that. Next, I will always purchase parts and labor from a local company unless I have no other option. I care about my community and my neighbors and feel I have an obligation to support them through my purchasing. Even if it might cost a bit more. You seem very concerned about trust and care, and you suggest that Bill isn't trustworthy and lacks expertise. I going to bet that the guy taking your order over the internet cares less than Bill at Harlow Auto Repair, not to mention Bill knows I know where he lives. If he doesn't care about me I'm betting he cares about his reputations.
  9. Thanks for the insight. I'll show him this post and ask him to provide better details. I will say, I went to high school with the manager, Bill. He's always been a decent guy. He's my neighbor. And the shop has been there for years and has a good rep. Bill isn't as technical as his mechanics, I notice he often talks in layman's terms. I asked him to keep the cost down. I have no interest in off road and Will use my 97 xj in the rare Snow fall here in Seattle. The stock diff lasted 26 years. Based on previous posts, I'm thinking $1,300 is a decent deal for parts and labor for an end to end rebuilt on the rear axle, even if they are providing the least expensive option. Last word, i work for an IT consulting company. We won't even do work for customers that won't buy the product from us. We can't hit our profitability goals on labor alone. I'd rather pay a bit more and know that Bill and his crew can make a decent living. Jeepdriver seems pretty learned, I'm right in his advice, price wise.
  10. Fyi the shop quoted me $1,300 parts and labor to completely rebuilt my Dana 35 axle with limited slip. $1,500 with posi. Brakes, all bearings, Carrier. I gave the go ahead on the $1,300.
  11. Guys: After some research I believe I could do the work myself, and would like to, but, I hurt my knee replacing the leaf springs, so.... I've been kind of obsessive about maintaining original parts. This is a street truck. Interior and exterior nicely restored. I'm going to die with this truck. The drive train is all original with 135k miles. My plan has been to have it all rebuilt as needed or cash is handy. I have $2k budgeted to cover maintenance and repairs for the first 1/2 of 2015. I'm considering having them just rebuild the entire axle. Go ahead and do the wheel bearings, stuff like that. They do all the hard stuff and things that benefit from overlapping labor. Then I do a complete brake overhaul. Based on this, do you have thoughts on what I should ask them to quote?
  12. The Shop first said nothing was wrong. After chatting for a while they decided to open the differential. Said it was shot and needs a new carrier. Rough guess before pricing parts was $800 parts a labor. Based on my investigation I believe something is wrong with the differential. They have been a reliable shop. What should I expect?
  13. Swapped wheels. No change. When I had it open I saw uneven wear on the brake pads. I'm convinced its the bearings. Thinking I'll take it to the shop. Thoughts?
  14. Put the truck up on stands, put it in to neutral and turned the wheels by hand. Moved the around to check free play. Passenger side felt tight abd when I pushed inboard or pull outboard while rotating I didn't notice any difference. On the drivers it felt to me like the bearings are loose. And when I pushed inboard and rotated I could here and feel what seems like gears rubbing together to hard. I'm thinking the bearings have gone bad and are causing the spines on the axle to get to far into the differential. I'm still going to swap wheels anyway just to he certain. If I'm right about bearings what should I check next?
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