Co-MAAAN-cheee

Thanks @DesertRat1991, The carrier and the t plates are identical to Dana. I bought a posi clutch pack.

My 1988 has a Dana 44. A while back a shop replaced my diff. The clutches have failed. There is a thin shim in either side that's damaged. I'm struggling to identify the correct parts to buy. The diff has something I'm pretty sure is called Cross shaft preload assembly. There are two t shaped plates that sit between the spider gears with 4 stiff springs. When I took the clutch packs out there were only 4 rings with ears and there was just a flat washer, not the spring washer. whereas every kit I see shows an extra tabbed disk with a hole in on of the tabs. Chatgpt suggests I just need to order a common clutch kit. Does anyone know what I'm talking about?

After some driving the steering is off center again and sloppy. I'm thinking that this summer I'll replace the steering components, maybe even the steering box. Get it aligned and see if it gets better. It's something I've been wanting to do anyway.

I had the rear diff profesh replaced years ago. I remember they ordered the wrong one and gave me the upgrade. I vaguely recall them saying possi, but I don't have receipts. I don't drive her much, and other then annoying me, it doesn't affect drivability. I might wait and see if it gets worse.

Thanks. I checked and it was toe out about .4". And the steering wheel was off center. I spend several hours messing around with alignment. Going way too far in various directions. Handling like $#!&, steering full off in the other direction. The problem got worse. I eventually got toe in a better place and steering wheel centered. I'm really starting to think I have a bad diff in front of back.

My do rub at full lock. But that's not it. It definitely tire on pavement.

I only notice it at very slow speed. Mostly just at take off.

My 88 MJ has developed a symptom. It seems similar to what happens when you're turning on dry pavement in four-wheel drive, but it's not anywhere near back. I don't so much get a hopping as I can hear a tire scrape as if I'm kicking off too quick on gravel. I took it to a shop and they told me it was ball joints $2,000 later problems still exist. I carefully checked the front axle even removing the cad and locking the front axle in two-wheel drive. No change in the symptoms. It happens just as you're starting up in in a left-hand turn. From in the cab it sounds like it's coming from the front but gosh it's hard to tell. I have a couple of theories at the moment. One is something's wrong with the front suspension causing some toe out or there's some problem with the rear diff causing a slight bit of binding. Anyone deal with this exact issue or would you check next?

Thanks everyone.

I did a smoke test and found a couple of cracks in vacuum lines. One at the TB and another near the air box. They were barely perceptible. The TB, especially the IAC, were extremely dirty. The IAC was so caked with hardened oil I don't think any air was getting past it. I cleaned it up and patched the vacuum lines and she is purring like a kitten. I ordered new vacuum lines and a new IAC and will finish the job tomorrow. A couple of years ago I rechecked and repaired all the grounds, and I cleaned and treated every electrical connection with deoxIT. I'm thinking I'll follow more of Cruisers tips to ensure all the sensors are in spec.

I'm so sad to hear that. Thank you for letting me know. He was such a great guy. And thanks, I totally forgot about the vacuum at the cad. I'll smoke the vacuum system first. I think I'll clean the TB regardless, its due

Hey @cruiser54, It been a while. Remember me? I wrote an addendum to your c101 delete. Anyway, My air filter was saturated with oil and the engine bay was filthy. I took her to the car wash and thoroughly cleaned it. Then I did an oil change and added one of those cheap oil catch cans. I also updated the headlights to LED. Installed the relays years ago. Everything was working fine for a couple of weeks. Drove it exclusively during that time. A couple of days ago I had new tires installed. When it came back from the tire shop it started fast idle. What? I'm assuming it's just a coincidence, but maybe the that guys bumped a vacuum hose. I unplugged the TPS and the idle dropped to normal. Plugged it back in and it held. Turn her off and back on, fast idle again. I'm planning on doing a smoke test to eliminate a vacuum leak. Tempted to remove the TB for a good clean and maybe just replace the TPS. Neither have been done in over 10 years. Where would you start? Why do you think it started after a tire change? Appreciate you, you are my jeep hero. Dave

@cruiser54 It's been 8 years since I finished my truck. Still running strong with the original drive train. Needs new paint and been thinking about going a different direction. Maybe convert to electric. Are you still around. I sure appreciated all your help. Thanks again.

I have a 1988 with 4.0 and auto trans. 140k miles. No modifications. I've had it for several years. I don't put a lot of miles on her. Did pretty much all of cruser54s tips. Even the c101 delete. I think I replaced almost every sensor. She's been running great for 2 years. For the past few months the engine dies without warning. Always happens while driving. Usually at slow speed in a parking lot. No rough running or any other symptoms. Just turns off. It'll start right back up every time then won't happen again for days or weeks. I think it might be happen while braking, but, its always a panic moment so not certain. I have noticed a loud noise coming from the fuel pump in hot weather. The engine has that common rough sound at idle. most think its a bad lifter, but, nothing has changed related to that since I bought it. Ideas for What should I check first?