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About DesertRat1991

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    Comanche Aficionado

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  1. What a shame. Under-cab ground effects look trashed. Probably used a forklift to move it around the lot.
  2. You've mentioned 32's several times, but you also mentioned running stock Eliminator wheels. Eliminator wheels are 15x7. There are very few 32x10.5R15 tires on the market. I think you can get super swampers in that size and that's about it. If you're dead-set on the Eliminator wheels then you will likely have to move to a 32x11.5R15, which will work, but 11.5 is not typically recommended for a 7" rim. If you're never going to air down, you'll probably be ok but you will have additional clearance issues to deal with due to the wider tire. My advice would be to get comfortable with 31x10.5R15 on the stock wheel, or start considering some other wheel options in 15x8 or 16x8 with more backspacing.
  3. So... what's the inside scoop on 91-92 Comanche fuel sending units (P/N 4637184)? Can you see every NOS Comanche part in the system? Or do you have to search for specific part numbers?
  4. I agree that it should match the bumpers. Take a look at the NOS bumper pics in the thread below. The original finish looks like semi-gloss.
  5. Yes, you may see a temperature excursion if you park it and heat soak the engine. Mine does this sometimes when driving off-road. Do you currently have an e-fan installed? The e-fan should kick on when your temp reaches ~225, then turn off again at 210 after the situation is back under control. If you have an e-fan and want to test it's activation point, you can bring your truck up to temp then block the grill with a piece of cardboard. The needle will start creeping up. If the needle creeps past ~225-230 without the fan kicking on, call off the test -- something is wrong.
  6. Nice truck! Converting to the HD fan clutch is a good move for a desert truck. It runs a bit louder than the stock unit but it definitely helps. NAPA part number is 272310. Your electric fan should be kicking on at ~230 if it's working properly.
  7. Add some weight or remove one of the leafs. If you are using aftermarket shackles, then ty returning to stock since they are pretty short. These springs don't seem to "settle" all that much. I've lost 1/2" over 2 years, and most of that occurred in the first 12 months. They've held up pretty good. That's with stock bumper, full sized spare, trailer hitch, tool box and a camper shell in the rear.
  8. Great info! I'm really looking forward to your chapters covering "parts selection for dummies." I'm trying to piece together an R134A setup for my 91 and have already sourced the HVAC box and dashboard control panel from a '95 XJ. I'd like to replace the heater core and evaporator. Do you have any thoughts on copper vs aluminum for these parts? My understanding is that copper transfers heat better, but the copper units aren't made entirely of copper. On the other hand, the aluminum units are all aluminum so they end up working better. Also, does this UAC 4366A parts kit look like a good kit to continue building around? I like that it includes a parallel flow condenser: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9826464&jsn=365 If I can nail these items down I think that just leaves 4 hoses and a pressure switch left to find. The '91 looks to be pre-wired for the compressor and pressure switch. Am I missing anything? Thanks.
  9. I just bought one from this seller last week when Ebay was offering 10% bucks back through their app. I just got a notification that they are offering 13% bucks through the app today: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dana-Spicer-DIFFERENTIAL-CARRIER-DANA-SUPER-30-UNLOADED-OPEN-3-73-AND-UP/223462050152?epid=235752353&hash=item3407604968:g:ixAAAOSwYpVcm0YS It came with new bolts and a roll pin.
  10. This truck has had an interesting life. That gaping hole in the frame under the UCA bucket isn't normal. Kind of looks like the UCA bucket started separating from the frame and the mangled welds were a (poor) attempt at repair. I'd like to see a side profile shot of the LCA mount. I'm not convinced that is a drop bracket. Doesn't look like it drops much lower than the stock mount. Plus, a drop bracket wouldn't be necessary with WJ arms. And, you wouldn't typically install a LCA drop without dropping the UCA mounts too. What would cause this damage? Hard to say. Undercarriage doesn't look all that rusty. Maybe someone wheeled the hell out of it in a past life. I reccomend finding someone who actually knows how to weld to look into boxing and stiffening the frame in that area.
  11. IMO, overpriced @ $10,900. It's a clean old truck, for sure. Buy it if you LOVE old Renix trucks, but being a Chief doesn't add much to the premium in my book. It's basically alloys and stickers ...with cloth seats. No leather and no power windows. That makes this bird rare, but not particularly special. Since you asked, I'd max out at $8,500. I think AMC really screwed up by not making the Chief the top trim package. The "CHIEF" should have come LOADED.
  12. Despite the deceptive thread title, the thread below actually has a lot of good information on the d44 brake conversion:
  13. Got interior pics? Curious about the rear leg room.
  14. Nope. They are completely independent. Yes ...sorta. Originally, I had those pins mounted on the outboard side of the skid plate and they worked great for disco storage. Then I moved to bigger tires and they contacted the rubber when flexing so I flipped them inboard. Now I just use them to hold extra ring pins. If had to do it over again I would've just mounted the pins higher up on the frame with self tapping fasteners.
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