DesertRat1991

Pics..?

Is that style of bump yankable? I don't see the indentations in the cup that would hold the base in place. I think that's the molded style. This style is yankable and you can insert KJ09101BK into the cup. The indents will secure the base of the new bump stop into the cup:

+1 for 265/75R16 These are essentially 32x10.5. They will fill out your wheel wells just like the 32x11.5s but the narrower track will minimize rubbing. As wheels go, most stock 15" wheels are 5.5" backspacing. One of the reasons I switched from 15" Ravines to 16" Moabs is because the Moabs have 5" BS which pushes the wheel outboard without the need for spacers. You gain a half inch of clearence to further reduce rubbing issues. According to my eyeball, a 10.5" tire on a wheel with 5" BS seems to be the limit if you are at all concerned about keeping the

Yeah... they sold that truck to a guy in North Carolina who has been trying to flip it on FB for like $18,000. He's a member here.

Well, that's an important detail. All my previous comments pertained to XJ/MJ platform. You are probably aware there are quite a few different versions of NP242 used across eras and model lines. A period correct, NP242J for our trucks would have a 2-pin switch (P/N 83503525) on the rear case-half near the mechanical speedo sensor. All previous comments regarding connecting to the XJ/MJ harness apply. Looks like the ZJ xfer case has a 4-pin switch on the front case-half which means it doesn't pick up the signal from the same place. I can't venture a guess as to how it

The NP231 and NP242 use different switches, with different connectors to control the 4WD lights. The transmission harness should include connectors for both models. On NP231 equipped models, the NP242 connector is typically just tucked up and out of the way. Once you find it, you need to connect a separate 2-wire jumper harness to connect the transmission harness to the NP242's switch. Since you are currently 2WD, you will likely need to install bulbs behind the "Part Time" and "Full Time" indicator panels in the dash. Here's a pic of the NP242 jumper harn

I'm running the IRO double sheer with the flex joint. All the IRO stuff is well built. I ran for about a year with the original frame side poly bushing before adding the flex joint. IMO, the flex joint transfers slightly more vibration into the frame while not really adding a whole lot in terms of performance. It's not like it magically unlocked another inch or 2 of flex. The poly bushing worked fine. It's possible that guys with more extreme lifts might see greater benefits, but with my mild lift, if I had to do it over I'd keep that $50 bucks in my pocket and pres

Did the factory ever put the 4x4 logo in that spot? When were those pocket doors first available?

This chart is helpful. You want EYE/EYE shocks for the rear. Measure your distance between upper and lower rear shock mounts with the truck sitting at current ride height. Then, look at collapsed and extended shock lengths in the table below. You want your measurement to fall somewhere in the middle. The distribution of uptravel vs downtravel is your preference.

This is a plug & play installation on the 91+ trucks. All connectors are present in the harness and no extra sensors required. Without A/C, the aux fan activates around 230deg and shuts off at 210deg. IMO, these trucks should have never left the factory without an aux fan.

OEM pipe was crushed on my '91 . Currently running Walker piping without the crush.

Pro tip: Don't pay full price. These things are very popular right now and they go on sale every few weeks. If your need isn't urgent, set an Amazon price alert and just wait a bit for the next 20-30% off sale.

+1 We may think we have it bad, but the CJ and FSJ guys have it worse: CJ Mud Flaps ($950) FSJ Mud Flaps ($800)

Kobalt 24v compact 1/2" is my favorite junkyard tool. I prefer a pneumatic impact for heavy duty work.

Call IRO. Tell them you want to order a complete XJ Lift kit minus the leaf springs. I think they make 2", 3", 4" and 6" kits. Then buy your leafs separately from any reputable source.