DesertRat1991

Great story and the truck looks great too! Welcome aboard!

Interested! But how do these mount? Can you keep the factory tow hooks and front skid plate in place?

Agreed with longer links. The sway bar should be angled upwards at 15 degrees.

I like to monitor the closeouts deals for items to throw in my offroad spares kit. How to quickly find all closeout parts offered for a specific car without clicking every parts category: 1. On the rockauto.com home page, click on the big red start button to start the "Interactive" catalog. 2. Towards the bottom of the page, look for "Catalog display problem? Click Here for the traditional HTML version." This will take you to the older style catalog search. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php 3. Search through the catalog till you find your specific car model. 4. Your address bar should read something like "http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1333381" The numbers at the end are your car's code #. 5. Use this link, but replace the Xs after "carcode=" with your car's code. "http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=xxxxxxx&m=wc&l=en&html=true" This will pull up all the close out deals for your car. Bookmark the link in your web browser. Enjoy.

ahh..... welcome to the club. It's a very exclusive club that requires just the right combination of bad luck and swear words to join... I guess I never posted the final solution in that thread. I ended up ordering a long threaded rod from zoros.com and had a shop weld it on for me. I did not grind off what was left of the broken stud. The welder said that would have been a bad idea. Instead, the guy welded up over what was left of the original stud and mated it with the new piece to ensure a solid bond. Below is the only picture I could find at the moment. The fix was still a work in process at this point. After this photo, we made sure the stud was straight and level, then did some shaping of the weld joint with a grinder to make sure the shock bushing could slide over it. The fix has held rock solid for nearly a year now with several wheeling trips. Good luck.

Here is the Bilstein 5100 series chart. As others have said, measure first. Then select an appropriately sized shock from the eye/eye options for the rear.

https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/MJRK-P.html

Heads up -- Looks like Alexia has an OEM short bed spare tire winch in the pile of "junk" he's looking to get rid of. If you want to install it on a long bed, you would just need to unbolt the winch assembly from the V-shaped bracket.

Same size on both sides. Spicer part number is below. A 36mm socket seats around the seal perfectly and gives you something to tap on to drive the seal into place.

Since you asked... the price seems high to me. This appears to be the 7th most expensive MJ listed for sale in the country on craigslist right now, and it's neither restored nor all original. It's a very nice truck, but: Renix motor, CAD axle, tube bumper, missing Eliminator wheels, Chinese tires, and miscellaneous lift with LCA drop brackets put a ceiling on your value. Pricing depends on how motivated you are to sell it. List it for $9,000 and be willing to talk to anyone offering 8k or better.

The problem you describe is almost always a vacuum leak. I wonder how you verified that the vac system was sound? The HVAC check valves prevent leaks in the HVAC vac lines from compromising engine vacuum. Did you inspect every inch of the line in the diagram below? I would also recommend pulling out the blimp and inspecting all sides for cracks.

I got sand everywhere.

I see a parking brake pedal in the foot well and a transfer case shifter on the trans tunnel.

Is there a dipstick o-ring on the 2.5? My 4.0 didn't have one. The tube was just press fit into the hole. That said, when it started leaking I pulled the tube and sealed that junction with a bead of hi-temp RTV silicone. Problem solved.

What happens when you turn the aux fan on? Does it bring your temps down and keep them down? Or does it continue to overheat?