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Everything posted by gogmorgo

  1. I'll also point out that the MJ/XJ version of the AMC20 was a variant of the FSJ axle with one-piece shafts, not the CJ variant that had shafts that liked to come apart.
  2. Good. White lights are junk anyhow. They wreak havoc on oncoming traffic's night vision.
  3. What's funnier is I'm pretty sure my roommate had it filled last fall... I didn't remember it being full, but I do remember having a convo about the date stamp on it. He's been away for a bit so I'll ask when he gets back where/if he got it filled, because if they did fill it, they clearly have the correct adapters.
  4. Well the barbecue being hooked up to it is at least that old as well. Funny that a tank made illegal that long ago is still certified until the end of the year when they're only good for ten years.
  5. I'll have to talk to our welder at work then. So far we've been raiding the throwaway bottle bin at one of the local campgrounds for 1-lbs that aren't empty. Even if I could figure out a way to get the propane into those, that wouldn't be terrible. We touched briefly on oxy-propane in the short welding class we took in school, but the gist of it was no one does it... but you really never know what's floating around in a government shop. Just the other day I encountered someone throwing out a mechanical tool for measuring air humidity. It looked cool as all hell until it landed upside down and crushed itself under the weight of its own base.
  6. Find a local spring shop, give them the specs for a metric ton spring, but tell them how much lift you want above that. Or go SOA and tell them how much drop you want to get back to around 4.5".
  7. Since I posted earlier I've changed my power steering pump, and a lot of the dieselly clatter from my 2.5 has disappeared. Worth looking(listening?) into if you've got a stethoscope, or reasonable alternative.
  8. I've got an older-looking propane tank. My roommate got it last fall and it's full, but I don't have a clue how to hook it up to our barbecue. The fitting on it doesn't look like a typical one to me. Its got a tapered seat inside it, but the inner bore is smooth. The external threads are left-handed. I figued it would be the older style male POL but I've got an adapter with female POL threads (for running barbecues off 1-lb throwaway tanks) and that won't go on past 1 turn, so clearly that's not it. The date code on the tank is 12-09, so I'm not really anticipating getting a ton more use out of it given I can't get it filled after this winter, but it'll save me a bit if I can get an adapter for the tank, so long as it doesn't cost more than a refill (~$25 locally)
  9. Small update. Picked up some parts at the wrecking yard. I've added a back of cab panel, where mine was missing, and got a driver's belt buckle. So now if there's three people in the cab the middle passenger isn't hanging onto my belt to make it look legit. I also managed to track down my power steering leak. It was tough to find because it was getting on the pulley and serp belt and going everywhere. Turns out the pump itself was leaking from the shaft seal. I tossed in one that came on one of the engines I picked up. Gotta say, fighting against empty power steering sucks... It took me a bit to get used to how light the steering is now. I also built a canoe rack for it. Yeah, carbohydrate foam is terrible, but I do appreciate the rustic look. I've also used it for 12' lengths of lumber to fix my fence. If I were to build another one I would put a 9' rail along the top, to bring it all the way to the front of the cab, and I would've worked out to be able to slide 4' wide sheets inside (it's 45" wide inside... didn't really plan that), but this works alright. I've got it held down with turnbuckles to the factory tie-downs, and I can lift it in and out on my own. It also works great for solo carrying the 17' canoe, just walk up to the back of the truck and slide it on/off... although typically I've got an assistant for that.
  10. Yeah I've seen that place a time or two. Took a pano down there the weekend before last. ... mostly because I was curious how much detail could be revealed in Photoshop (or similar) from pitch black photos. I haven't done much with that file yet though. I also took what I considered at the time to be hilarious video of me playing with shadows on the highway sign a couple hundred feet away thanks to some lights left on inside the Brewster building. And some photos of the ZJ parking next to a no parking sign that is too reflective to photograph.
  11. Nah, watching these guys, they're deliberately obvious any time they're doing paid sponsorship. And they do mention the fact that due to its size the JT stands almost no chance against the MJ offroad, especially with that modest lift, and they don't fail to point out what we all know, that the JT is less useful as a truck due to bed size and payload ratings. The Chrysler that built the MJ is the same Chrysler selling the JT. It does them no good to suggest the JT isn't as good as their old product that they can't make much money on any more, which is the conclusion TFL came to.
  12. Just a heads up, you'll want to use a longer bolt than the factory one to pull it on, or at least get it started. The factory bolt will only have a couple threads engaged at best when you start it, and you don't want to risk stripping out the crank. I'm 99% sure it's a 1/2-20 (national fine thread) bolt but confirm that before jamming any old thing in there. I've got a parts store steering wheel puller that I was able to rig up as a pusher because the thread matches.
  13. Looks cool. Too bad, I was at a wrecking yard a few weeks ago, and could've got you all the interior parts you need. I have a Lada Niva, and my parts guy is in Ukraine... It would be cool to send stuff back the other direction. But I'm 2000km away from that wrecking yard now...
  14. This might be a good thread to add to the DIY section/index maybe? So the file doesn't get buried under pages of tech posts and lost.
  15. If you can find a shifter for an XJ instead of for the wrangler, that could solve your problem. The shifter hitting the dash is a thing that people report happening after sourcing an ax15 out of a YJ or TJ to put in an XJ/MJ, and using the XJ shifter with it instead of the YJ one solves the issue. I imagine the ax5 shift lever would end up in the same place, causing the same problem.
  16. Yeah... even the dude at the trans shop wanted to put in an AX15. Clearly not the brightest bulbs. Although it was kinda cool to see inside the BA10, and learn why it's not exactly the best designed trans ever.
  17. For sure. It's getting pretty tedious. I wanted to watch the direct comparison between MJ and JT, but they're taking their sweet time cutting to the chase. It's a bit of a piss-off watching them draw it out for the view count.
  18. I've had a couple "sproing" sounds from front axles. It was mostly things coming into contact with the coils I would say. One time the sway bar got bent in a way the end link was getting shoved into it Another time again it was the end link hitting it, but in this case because the bottom coil had broken off and the spring had found a new home up against the C of the axle. As to whether or not you have the same thing going on, I can't say. But it's something to look at I guess.
  19. The wires going into the distributor body are for the sync sensor/cam position sensor/pickup coil, whatever you want to call it. I'm 99% certain they've got more to do with your injector timing than spark.
  20. Rollbar under 11.5s ET for a hardtop. Cage below eleven seconds or 135mph if you've modified the floorpans or firewall, 10s ET if you haven't.
  21. I've also had the harmonic balancer fail in such a way it caused the belt to start sawing through the timing cover, which made a pretty good noise. The rubber was coming apart and shifting inwards.
  22. And the third instalment. Yawn. Just show us the damn thing on the trails already!!
  23. 3/8" square socket to go on a 3/8" ratchet? Female square sockets are a thing, although you don't much encounter square-headed fasteners, they were once more commonplace before hex heads became ubiquitous. Generally speaking modern square-drive sockets will essentially be eight-pointed stars, not just a square. I've really only seen square fasteners on ancient household appliances, TVs and such, older furniture, maybe the odd one on ancient machinery that's been farmered back together a time or two back in the day, but I have seen them occasionally on some more recent cheap Chinese junk, or in machine screw sets, just typically in small sizes. I imagine it costs a lot less to run a tap down the middle of a chunk of flat bar then shear it off and smack the ends on a grinder than to make a proper hex nut. I've also seen square sockets for driving taps in catalogues, but not in person. Bolt extractors (EZ-outs) frequently have the same male wrench adapter that taps do, and if the bolt was stuck badly enough to damage it and require extracting, it's not always nice to your tap handles to use them for that purpose. I've never really understood why the use odd-sized square took adapters on extractors, seems a big meaty hex would be FAR better to me... It could also simply be a 3/8" female to female adapter, which is something I definitely could have taken advantage of the odd time. I'm not positive what context the manufacturer would have intended it to be used in because I'm pretty confident any time I could have used one was due to cobbling some crazy $#!& together when I didn't have the correct tools... see above about bolt extracting for some examples of contexts.
  24. Not strange. There's only one dash harness with connectors for all options. It makes it easier on the assembly line because the guy putting in the dash doesn't need to go through the options list to see what's needed and what isn't on a particular truck, because if he screws up, changing out the dash harness is a big job, but a couple switch panels, no big deal. It also makes it easier for a dealer to add options after the fact when all they need to do is bolt on equipment and plug it in. On the same note, it also allows customers to spec whatever combination of options they want.
  25. Generally speaking with brakes you want to have at least some pedal pressure before you open the bleeder to make sure everything is going out the bleeder. It's probably not totally necessary because as soon as you push the pedal you'll push out anything that might have gone in, but it's just an extra little precaution. For the same reason you also want to close the bleeder again before hit the bottom of the pedal. That said I've also bled brakes by myself in the driveway, just running a hose into a jar, making sure there's an upward loop right after the bleeder to collect any air, opening the bleeder, crawling back to the driver's seat and pumping the brakes 10-20 times, crawling back under, and closing the bleeder, then just topping up the reservoir when I'm done. Haven't had an issue with that method yet.
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