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About yxmj

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    MJ Junkie

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    Winnipeg Manitoba, Canada

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  1. Vac to the driver's side port to engage to the passenger to unlock You can use your wiper spray line in a pinch if it is an emergency
  2. yxmj

    size 14 socks

    Do you have a Costco in your area......I don't remember the brand name....but they came in a 12 pack. (Size 12/13/14)
  3. Try and get your hands on a Mech. Scope You will be able to use it to pinpoint any noise even while the motor is running. A lifter will be easy the hear through the valve cover.....
  4. Your exhaust has cracked right at the flange that bolts to the head....Google it it is fairly common.....one if my YJ's is the same....it will need to be welded or replaced....I have just been driving it like that....it goes away when it warms up
  5. 134 Amp alternators off of a 3.7 liberty should be cheap and plentiful at JY's in your area.........Just a little grinding to fit You can even spend a little time with a wire wheel and polish it up to look like chrome (which will add HP and Mileage to your MJ)
  6. I had luck with this It should be available in your area https://www.amazon.ca/3M-Stripe-Wheel-Mandrel-Diameter/dp/B00063VT0G/ref=asc_df_B00063VT0G/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292938351042&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13742113931482093752&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001187&hvtargid=pla-451421021261&psc=1
  7. This is a Gladiator This is a (4 Door) Scrambler
  8. As said above .....if it is spring over already an added leaf could solve your problems.....easy donors are (XJ obviously) S-10 and F- 150's (you can use any leaf the same width) I like to take the pack apart on the truck leaving the top leaf bolted to the frame and shackles.....then reassemble the pack with the new leaf and reinstall.....Just costs the price of the donor leaf....new u-bolts....and some refreshments for your time.
  9. You will need the 36 mm socket ( I don't know what the standard equivalent is 1 7/16?) and a 12 point 13 mm comes in handy
  10. On a big screen you can see the cap on the u-joint is not seated correctly....FUBAR...........Like Pete says....time to replace......I think it will be a 1320 (?)
  11. The HO 4.0 is designed to operate at 210 If you are running hot at start up and idle maybe you need to look at your T-stat/ water pump/ Rad configuration ?? Put in a new 195 T-stat. ?? Pull the heater hose coming from the water pump at the heater core end put it in a pail or jug and have a helper temporary start the motor.....do you get a good healthy stream of water? Back flush your rad and heater core....there are products out there ...( Google)......I use everyday Vinegar. And Like Cruiser says.....don't trust the 30 year old gauge Check it with an IR thermometer (if you can get your hands on one)
  12. I have a 4.7 in a 2002 2WD Dakota ( NV 3550 / Corporate 9.25 with 3:55) The PO had chopped the exhaust off after the cats (on this truck it has 2 cats, one dropping directly off each manifold, so that would be a major leak ) And then he tossed on as pair of elbows turned sideways......basically wheel well headers. IMHO research the motor a bit.....they do not make power like a 4.0 down low....mine likes to get above 25...2800 RPM then it starts to pull hard....... The only thing you mention that I do not have is a bad idle.......aside from the leak maybe something else is effecting it....I would check that out first The other question for my own curiosity......if he has a tach ...where does the red-line start....................my tach has no red line??????
  13. If I knew that I could track down the post.........it has been a couple of years so I do not have the original packaging......I will look but i do not think it is stamped on it
  14. I am not having any luck (too many returns) But I know that it was someone on here who pointed it out ( and even gave a part number) Because I am using one that I picked up after reading it.
  15. If you search the site....someone had posted this info before
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