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About yxmj

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    MJ Junkie

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    Winnipeg Manitoba, Canada

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  1. If I knew that I could track down the post.........it has been a couple of years so I do not have the original packaging......I will look but i do not think it is stamped on it
  2. I am not having any luck (too many returns) But I know that it was someone on here who pointed it out ( and even gave a part number) Because I am using one that I picked up after reading it.
  3. If you search the site....someone had posted this info before
  4. See below....If it is a 20 it will be round and look like a WWII English army helmet........Bottom Pic
  5. I can not tell from the picture... does the 2000 TJ 4.0 come with the horse shoe intake?
  6. Well anyone who has read this thread as well as the attached links will be able to judge for themselves who really understands how it works. Your answers that have nothing to back them up but you saying "Because I said so" Thanks for being an example of my signature
  7. Sorry.....somehow these were supposed to end up in the reply above......
  8. JMO413 The factory fan comes on when the coolant in the radiator reach's 195. Yes exactly……so if the T-stat is 195 and the switch is in the T-stat housing….the switch would activate and turn on the fan as soon as the motor reaches temp… why would you want to have the fan running all the time…..if that is your goal stick with the mechanical fan . omega_rugal i want an explanation for that... That is simple I explained it above but I will do it again. Let’s use your truck as an example….1988 2wd Short bed 4.0 Renix AX15. For the sake of this description we are going to remove the mechanical fan and replace it with one single electric fan (I use stock XJ/MJ fans but an aftermarket will be the same). We will assume a working 195° T-stat and a 195° N/O switch. And a moving truck. First we install the temp switch in the T stat housing…….we drive and run the truck up to temp……Stat opens @ 195 and allows fluid to flow…Motor will heat the coolant beyond the 195° point ….switch closed completes the circuit and turns the fan on…..fan will stay on constantly as long as the motor is running now….it will only shut off when the motor is shut off and cools down. Now we install the switch in the lower (return) rad hose as described. Motor is run up to temp….Stat opens at 195° and allows the fluid to flow…..water pump does its job and pumps the water through the rad and out the return hose past the switch….If the act of the water running through the rad with just the air flow of movement drops the temp below 195 (maybe as much as 60° as said above) the switch will not close and the fan will not turn on…..BECAUSE IT DOES NOT HAVE TO……so you now get the benefit of removing the mechanical fan (I do not have the numbers on HP or MPG gain but it would obviously be something as the motor is no longer working to turn the Mechanical fan or in the case of the constantly running electric fan the extra load on the alternator.) And like I said at 60 MPH….my fans do not go on even when the temps are in the 90’s Should the coolant in the return line be above the 195° mark the switch would close complete the circuit and turn the fan on until such time as the Temp should drop back down to the 195. And before any one asks this one…..A 195° T-stat does not mean you motor is constantly running at 195°…..they run hotter than that …..195° is just the temp that the stat open up and allows full circulation of the coolant. https://jeep-manual.ru/index.php?page=100 https://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/anyone-running-electric-fans-sensor-questions-1928378.html https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/cooling-fan-sensor/39133/page1/ https://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/288712-electric-fan-those-who-put-temp-switch-lower-radiator-hose-inside.html http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=270950 https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/20-6-2l-diesel-engine/829130-electric-radiator-fan-sensor-temp-lower-hose.html http://www.fuelly.com/forums/f10/coolant-fan-temperature-switch-5252.html
  9. Check and see if you have a clogged cat.....
  10. Do as you wish…..if I am wrong…..why does the factory put the switch in the rad? (on all MJ & XJ Zj Ect.) (or like some older units on the block directly beside the return lower hose.) Just for giggles? The T stat housing sensor is for the gauge so that you get an accurate read of engine temp as it leaves the motor, prior to any cooling happening. To answer the 2 gents above…… think of this……my way if the rad is doing its job and cooling the water with just the air flow developed by moving…. and great if it is 60 degrees less…then the water re-entering the motor is cool…..no need for the fan to come on. (And it doesn’t) (So you get the advantage of extra HP & fuel savings….no draw on your mechanical or electrical system.) With the switch in the t stat housing the fan goes on too soon….. Basically it will turn on as soon as your T-stat opens and runs constantly the whole time…..because you are reading the temp BEFORE the coolant goes through the rad and has a chance to cool. If your rad is working and cooling correctly….why have the fan run when it is not necessary…..like I said on a hot day at 30 mph my fans do not turn on at all…..my temp gauge sits exactly where it should (the sensor in the T-Stat housing) and the 4.0 and especially the 2.5 gets to run without the burden of a mechanical fan or a constant draw on the alternator. Like I said Google it (and search this site) you will see it is really quite common.
  11. Here is how I made my slice pipe -Chunk of exhaust pipe that has an OD same as the ID of my lower hose -Weld in bung -1/4" SS bolt 2 pipe clamps Drilled the pipe out to accept the bung....welded the Bung in the hole.....welded the head of the bolt to the pipe.....Inserted pipe in hose....inserted sensor (switch) in bung...connected 1/4 bolt by 12 Gauge wire to batter -ve terminal. Fan is set up as such.... +ve from battery runs to one side of a common relay .....relay coil is attached to keyed accessory terminal (only alive when key on).......other side of relay runs to +ve of fan....-ve of fan runs to tab of sensor (switch).....When the coolant that has run though the rad is hot enough....switch closes ....fan sees ground and turns on. Like I said do some research.....Placing the switch in the t-stat housing will activate the fan all the time......you only want it to turn on when the coolant is still hot after leaving the rad......on 90% of mine under normal highway conditions the fan does not come on at all.......But I am a cool Canadian 'eh
  12. You can search the site to see.....But I have this setup in multiple jeeps Both 4.0 and 2.5 The best spot to install the temp switch is in the lower rad hose. You will have to get a splice pipe with a bung that accepts the sender and run a wire from the splice pipe to ground. I use a 195 T-stat and a switch from a Vette that turns on at 210
  13. I will swap it for you for $9500.....that includes the engine and me travelling there......
  14. If it helps......non ac YJ'S used the double v-belt......with the 2.5 I am no expert but even though the front of the 2.5 and 4.0 are somewhat interchangeable (same water pump.....same t-stat housing ect) The balancer would be (IMHO) different... as it would obviously need to be balanced for cylinders 5&6?
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