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Sir Sam

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About Sir Sam

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    MJ Maniac

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    zlusterdenver
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    http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com

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    Colorado Baby!
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    The usual.

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  1. I had to open up the LCA bracket in the drop bracket to get the caster angle adjuster in place. Used a bolt and nut to "press" it apart. Worked pretty well. Drop brackets installed finally, control arms loosely bolted untill axle is in and I can torque them. No idea what this barcode was for, the newer jeeps don't have this: Masked off the vin plate, ready for paint: Looks so much better with fresh paint: Got the 20 ton harbor frieght press today: Rear seat bolts drilled: Heated seat install: Nice having a large benchtop to work on instead of working on the ground: Build time and date of seat: And back together: Freakin cig burns! Ugj. This is a super nice seat, 45k miles, from an 01, about as new as you can get. The vynil is in good shape, the foam is in great shape, the fabric is really nice(now that its cleaned), and it has the fukkin burn marks. It'll have to do for now untill I can figure out something nicer, but these burns are gonna bother me. 2door seat folding mechanism: Installed for testing! For the first time in a decade I got to sit in it! Video showing the seats a bit: So then I started building a harness to go from the simple overhead light to the console with compass. Had to splice in a plug since I didn't have an intact harness to swap in. And then tested the mini overhead console from the sunroof ZJ, and it works! Then I got to messing with this connector under the passenger seat: I always thought this connector was for power seats, but then it didn't make sense why it was under the passenger but not the driver, especially since the power driver seat was more common than the dual power seats. The dual power seats only seem to have been around in the last few years when heated leather was an option, and even then only on the heated leather seats. But then I got to comparing the connectors on my OEM heated leather seats and they don't match, so I was wondering what it is. Then I poked around, it has one small wire that is a switched source, and another large wire that is dead. I quickly traced the large wire back to the junction block and verified continuity. After poking around the connector it is C6 at the junction block, and after even more poking it gets power not through a fuse but a circuit breaker! The vertical circuit breaker closest is CB30, and its for the wipers, the horizontal one furthest away(blurry) is CB28 and its for the window power, and CB29 with the empty spot is for the power seat power! So I just need to rob a wiper circuit breaker from the junkyard and that wiring will have the exact power I need for power seats or heated seats. This also means its super easy to add seat heaters to a jeep with manual seats.
  2. I decided to pull back the scope and not use the CRD engine for now. Everything else I am currently working through would need to be done, but to properly install the CRD I was going to be doing some pretty major vehicle rewiring. For now the 4.6/AW4 gives me a useable vehicle while I work through everything else. My plan is to get it as a running driving vehicle as soon as possible. Then work on the bodywork and repaint, 2500 front end etc. When that is complete and everything is sorted out and running great, then I will consider what it will take to swap in the diesel. But before I go back around to the diesel I have other vehicular projects to make some progress on. Basically this is my way of getting it out of project hell and dialing back the scope so I can actually use this thing.
  3. So I set the pinion angle(not totally final, but as close as I can tell) and measured the driveshaft length. Trying to order from Tom Woods but they do not list the companion flange for the 8.25 rear end, and it appears to be different from the ford 8.8 options of 2.5" and 3". KJ flange appears to be about 2.65" Phone just rings so I have an email off to them, hopefully someone is monitoring they contact me email box regularly.
  4. Thanks, I'm very pleased with it, its much better than having to use a relay to ground the switch. I'm going to de pin the rear window wiper connector and use the wiring from that for the high idle switch for the headlight glow and ground. then I just have one wire to solder and run through C100 and into the engine harness connector. I will install the pins into C100 in the factory location. Just trying to follow the factory install method as close as possible!
  5. So the other night when doing the break in after running it at high RPM I was looking around at the engine for leaks and such, my power steering was spitting a little fluid out as it was bleeding down air and such. So I was looking around that area when I noticed a giant red patch of ATF pooled on the intake manifold! WTF? So I get to looking around and I realize its not ATF, I was seeing a triangle shaped hole in the casting and behind that was a glowing hot exhaust manifold! I managed to grab some pics, but it cooled off quick enough that I didn't get to grab a picture as the super red it was right after I stopped my break in run. Got the hack n tap done last night. I need to measure and get my driveshaft ordered for the rear, hopefully I will get that done tonight. Going with this length I have 100% engagement of the splines on the transfer case: So big ticket items remaining: -Set pinion angle and weld perches(likely get pinion pretty close tonight for purpose of drive shaft length measurement. -Door latch modifications. -Drop arm bracket install (need some new hardware and maybe some tweaks to install). Front end: -Gear setup. -WJ Brake setup(weld spacers to knuckles is biggest part of this). -HD steering setup. -Track bar bracket and stabilizer -Track bar(likely need custom length or adjustable) Body wiring: Cab interior, need to finish cleanup and strip down of XJ wiring. Body rear, need to decide how tail lights will be wired and how tail light wiring, fuel pump wiring, and trailer tow harness wiring will exit the MJ and reach the back. Extra's: Need to run wiring for EXT IDLE, power for heated seats, power for electric seat bases. Need to decide how to control heated seats, I am wondering if its possible to use the XJ heated seat controller with the aftermarket heated elements. Need to research this possibility. Need to drill hole for antenna to pass into cabin, should have done this before AC box and dash was in.....woops. Work on interior install, body wiring being sorted is critical path now for the interior install. Finish AC line install and check AC system for vac. Finish Rear bumper grinding, decide on paint vs galvanized option.
  6. Did a 10 minute break in, I'll do some more tomorrow. Got the aftermarket high idle switch installed, but then I got to thinking about it. It does not have a backlight for the text when the headlight is on. But I realized you can swap the switch cover over to the OEM switch........so I realized I could install it on a spare fog switch. But then I got to looking, and realized I could also install it on a spare defroster switch...... The high idle works by grounding the ECU pin that tells the ECU to goto high idle. The fog switch, and the aftermarket switch work by providing 12V.....not ground. So you have to use the switch to turn on a relay, which instead of providing a larger 12V power source will provide a ground. This works fine, but its some complication. However if I use a spare defroster switch and modify it with the new cover to set on instead of toggle.........So I have a defroster switch that simply toggles on, then on the back one of the wires provides ground! Normally when you press the defroster switch down it momentarily provides ground to set the timer relay. By modifying the defroster switch to stay on, NOT as a momentary pushbutton, when it is in the down position the ground is connected, up ground is off, so in effect I have reproduced the stock high idle switch! Pretty pumped about such a small thing, but its the details that get ya. Switch down, continuity to ground: Switch up, open circuit: Moved it to a different spot to be closer to the stock wiring that I will use from the rear wiper. I had to modify the electric seat base to fit the rear floor of the MJ, the mount closest to the bottom of the frame was too low, and caused the seat to "rock" on the floor, a little bit of hammering and a the bracket fits like a glove. Next up I drill a plate to act as a load disperser on the bottom side. for bolting the seat down. Its Miller time! Miller moth that is, this is what I came out to when leaving my parents for the night.......and this was without any garage lights on, they come inside seeking warmth at night an congregate where its warmer. Heaven forbid you leave a light on even....
  7. Got another aw4 from a 2000. Took about 3 hours. Pulled the engine trans and transfer case together then separated them on the ground. Easier than trying to pull the transmission only. Looked like the engine had been rebuilt, has brass freeze plugs and a lead seal stamped on one of the freeze plugs. So now I need to pressure wash the new used one, get the drivetrain back out, swap it in, and get everything back up in place. I’d really like to be moving on and working on other things like getting the doors on, or the front end built. So it’s a setback. It sure is a bummer start it up and immediately see that you will be pulling it back out. Got the engine and trans dropped out of the MJ. Got the transfer case off and trans off. Sure enough the transmission input seal was bad. Scored a couple of these at the junkyard today, Gentex ZTVHL3. Has 3 homelink garage door openers, auto dim, compass, and outside temp. Uses standard base so it can be added to many different vehicles. I'm still looking for a holy grail, all of the above with courtesy lights. Pulled an engine/trans/transfer case from a 2000 XJ. Then took the transmission only. Also got a nice front driveshaft for $20. And then pulled the engine/trans/transfer case from the MJ: Empty already: This is what caused the leak, input seal ripped, likely would have been fine with a replaced seal, but I've gotten to the point where I don't trust this transmission and would just rather try another right now. New used transmission, need to pressure wash tomorrow and then get it hooked up, and hopefully back in and running by the end of the day. Sad to see it empty! I'd like to move on, get my driveshaft ordered, get the front end built and installed. And finish up with the seats, I have this seat heater kit waiting to be installed, and I have the electric bases to install. I'm looking forward to some of the more "fun" stuff like getting the interior together. I'm looking forward to having the interior complete and a Jeep I can sit in! (of course, if it doesn't drive it doesn't matter if its sits)
  8. Video of it running: https://youtu.be/5hUmUKtjfvM I guess I should be happy, engine seems to run right and doesn’t seem to piss fluids, so far my build of the engine is better than the used transmission.
  9. Well I got it together enough yesterday to start filling fluids. Had a thermostat housing that refused to seal with just the paper gasket. The freeze plugs seeped some water at first but the stopped pretty quick. Seems to run fine, hvac box is working. Now the downside, transmission dumps fluid out the input area, just pouring out the bellhousing. So I think it’s fukked. Gonna goto junkyard tomorrow and try and get another aw4. All bolted in and running, but trans fukked. So I’m gonna pull the whole shebang back out to replace trans. Still pretty easy to drop out the bottom since there is no front end in the way. But just FML. It’s always something, it’s been really fighting me this past week, I basically spent since last Sunday night fighting the transmission. So at this point I’ve wasted about a week on the trans issues.
  10. Took a sick day from work and ran down to the junkyards to grab some things. Got a glove box, the a pillar trim, foot kick panels, 3 switch panel for fogs(someone took the switch but left the panel, but you can’t add the switch to the non fog panel. And I have the 4 switch panel coming anyways, so it’s more for the rarity and the use on the yellow Jeep. Got a shifter handle that is better, still no shifter bezel, it was already gone. ECU was gone, Jeep has been our 2-3 days and the ECU gets pulled right away! I got the parking brake adjuster I needed, I installed it, but I need to tighten and adjust before the parking brake works, but it’s damm close! So at this point I can continue putting together the interior, I can get the radiator and such installed. I got the exhaust pipe on to the cat, but I need to drill out some old bolts to get the cat to mount up now. Tomorrow I warranty a battery at Costco and I will have a fresh group 65 to start this thing with. Then I will get the cooling stack bolted up, fluids filled, and run it awhile. This is assuming the noise is reasonable with just a stock cat and no muffler. I got it to start and run much nicer, I think the timing was a little off. I made sure #1 was at TDC, verified it with the crank pulley notch, and then checked the cam pickup. The cam pickup wasn’t exactly right since I couldn’t skip the timing pin in. I loosened the holder bolt, took the Hall effect sensor off, and turned it a little until the timing pin went in. Now it starts right up and runs, a little rough and very loud. But It’s starting and running correct! I had to replace all the injector o rings, and I was missing some retainer clips, and because of the missing clips and age some of the prints weee leaking. Orielly has a set of new ones for like $6. I bought both sets they had in stock, one to use and then the next for when I fukked up. Coming together, hoping to have a bunch of pictures and video to share tomorrow, hopefully with it running.
  11. Small milestone. Manage to get the engine to fire! Finished up messing with the fuel system, got the fuel pump assembly in, fuel hose run, made up a connection for the front fuel hose. Had to solder a wiring harness onto the 96 XJ pump since the one I got from the junkyard someone had cut the wires off of. Tested it, not working, figured out I had no ground from a ground lug that should be back by the tail lights. Stuck the ground to the body pump fired right up. Tested float, fuel gauge reads. Having some battery issues having a good battery to crank it. Got a couple of jumper batteries on it and connect good and got it to turn over quickly. Got some firing to happen but not much, seems like it would get an initial catch and then nothing. Screwed around with it awhile with about the same results, some backfiring, etc. took a break to watch some tv with my dad before heading home for the night. After wards went back out and had the same thing happen, this time instead of him doing the throttle by hand I used my foot inside the cab to regulate the throttle. Manage to get it to catch and run without dying for a few seconds! I quickly turned it off since it was 10pm and freaking loud without the exhaust all hooked up. One step closer. Still lots to do. Going to make another junkyard run Saturday morning and hopefully grab some interior bits, the bit I need for the parking brake to work, and maybe a new fuel rail. I have a leak at injector #1 and it seems that the injectors seems missing their retaining clip.
  12. Small milestone today. Manage to get the engine to fire! Finished up messing with the fuel system, got the fuel pump assembly in, fuel hose run, made up a connection for the front fuel hose. Had to solder a wiring harness onto the 96 XJ pump since the one I got from the junkyard someone had cut the wires off of. Tested it, not working, figured out I had no ground from a ground lug that should be back by the tail lights. Stuck the ground to the body pump fired right up. Tested float, fuel gauge reads. Having some battery issues having a good battery to crank it. Got a couple of jumper batteries on it and connect good and got it to turn over quickly. Got some firing to happen but not much, seems like it would get an initial catch and then nothing. Screwed around with it awhile with about the same results, some backfiring, etc. took a break to watch some tv with my dad before heading home for the night. After wards went back out and had the same thing happen, this time instead of him doing the throttle by hand I used my foot inside the cab to regulate the throttle. Manage to get it to catch and run without dying for a few seconds! I quickly turned it off since it was 10pm and freaking loud without the exhaust all hooked up. One step closer. Still lots to do. Going to make another junkyard run Saturday morning and hopefully grab some interior bits, the bit I need for the parking brake to work, and maybe a new fuel rail. I have a leak at injector #1 and it seems that the injectors seems missing their retaining clip.
  13. So I'm picking up this switch panel for the MJ: The 4 position panel I'm buying has the rear fog switch! So when I get this installed in the MJ I will have from left to right, Mirror defroster, Front fog, Ext Idle, Rear Fog. Now, what is Ext idle and Rear fog you may ask? Good question! For those not aware the police version XJs came with a switch from the factory that raised the idle while the Jeep was running. There is a wire on the PCM that when grounded will raise the idle rpm up. Factory switches for the extended idle are very rare, maybe someday I will find one. But for now aftermarket will have to do. Aftermarket switches with custom text can be purchased relatively cheap. However the text on these switches is not illuminated like a factory switch is. Rear fog? Yup! Rear facing fogs are a common thing on european market vehicles, as in every vehicle has them. The rear fog switch is functionally the same as the front fog switch, however the icon is different. Front fog faces left, as in the above picture, and rear fog faces right. Subtle difference I know, but what it means is that I will have factory switches for forward facing fog lights and rear facing fog lights. I don't know exactly what I will control with the rear facing fog lights, might even just use it to control my backup LED flood pods at times other than reverse. But I have the option, and its going to be clean and factory like. I hate seeing holes drilled in random places for all sorts of mis matched and janky switches and wiring around. Other uses of the switch panel could be to have a switch that runs your cooling fan for awhile after shutoff, heat soak is definitely an issue for me and I tend to leave the jeep idling for awhile when I get to the top of a pass.
  14. Slow progress, some things have been fighting me. One small step forward, fuel pump sender. Whoever said you could use the fuel pump sender from a 96 was smoking crack. The resistance ranges are completely wrong for the 97+ gauge cluster. What I did was swap the float arm from the 96 XJ sender, since it seems to have the correct travel for the MJ tank, on to the 97+ sender, then I cut the mounting bracket off of the 97+ Xj pump body so it will hold the sender. Then I cut away some metal on the 96XJ sender mount to clear the XJ sender plastic. Then I mounted the XJ aluminum mount for the sender onto the 96Xj steel mount where the XJ sender was. So now the 97+ XJ sender is mounted in the 96XJ pump housing, which is bent to the right to clear the baffle. I'm going to grab another 96XJ pump assembly, and then look at cleaning up my MJ sender, and hybridizing them with a 97+ sender to sit inside the baffle. But that will come later, I think I have a "get it running solution" right now.
  15. Pete, I have a bunch located here: http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/ And I am happy to add any more that people can point out for me, I'm happy to be a mirror for all of the manuals you can find. Likewise anyone who wants to scan a paper manual I would gladly host.
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