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Sir Sam

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About Sir Sam

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    MJ Maniac

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  • Location
    Colorado Baby!
  • Interests
    The usual.

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  1. Pete, 3 6 speed KJs came through the junkyards recent, 1 5 speed, 2 diesels, 1 05 4 banger with 4.10s. And other stuff.
  2. Sir Sam

    How to Reproduce?

    I'd vote you go modern with this. Get the sucker straight, cleaned up, and ready, maybe even mounted to a bumper. Then 3d scan the object, tweak the model as needed. Then see what your next step is, could make a wood positive to form a fiberglass negative on, then use polyurethane to pour into a mold. You could 3d print sections of it out of various materials, hell you can 3d print and then use it for lost was metal casting and make a cast metal one(and as always you need to account for material shrinkage).
  3. Thanks Pete! Haha heck no! The grass is behind the living part of the house, the patio is behind my backdoor and garage, and then the fence/gate is at the end of the patio/garage which leads to the chicken/car yard. See how the grass ends just before the back door and old slab/step? It was the dirt area that that got turned into patio. And that got cleared out for the forms for the patio: Which became this:
  4. Rental house was nearly empty when we had the reception, and the one person living there was a friend of my now wife, so it was all arranged ahead of time to use the backyard, I keep the gate there just to make it easy to get over, otherwise the walk around is surprisingly long. I had a friend at Dewalt, so I was able to get a great discount, so I bought a LOT of tools. Unfortunately that friend no longer works for Dewalt, I'm glad I got what I could when I could. I didn't try to depreciate the tools on my tax returns.
  5. Ya its funny timing that you brought up the little known DJ grill hours after I sketched it, and hours after I took a couple of photos while I was sketching it out. Since you asked I added a whole thread about the patio: Right now the CJ has 7 hangers which sort of matches the number of slots, and I cannot add anymore without the hangers being too close for the keys. An XJ version could be a little wider since it doesn't taper, and I might be able to make 8 work. I think what I would likely do is make the 96- an 8 hanger, and the 97+ a 7 hanger. This breaks down a bit for the J10s and such that don't have a clear grill slots arrangement. I'm trying to decide if the DJ should have 5 key hangers or more right now.
  6. Ooops, didn't think about that geometry quite right, I ended up cutting another piece. Ok thats better: The gap in the frame there is for the door handle box: I really like the way this turned out. This is an interior bathroom style handle that is mounted to a steel box I made. The box is a section of the outer frame, 1x3, with a piece of the 1x1 welded to the end to complete the frame support and to close off the box. With Justins help we drilled a large hole for the handle with a hole saw in both sides. Then a single 1" hole for the striker to go through the outer frame. I was even able to use that little round ring thing that I have never used on my interior doors before: I did have to shave the interior bits of the door handle a little bit since it was not meant to attached to a door that was only 1" thick. In the end though it fit down tightly like it would on a wood door. Justin helped weld the inner 1" frame since I said STFU to the welder and just had him do it quicker. Then I painted the interior 1x1" area with POR15 since it wasn't filled welded, and also drilled some drain holes on the bottom side, this way if some water does ever get into it it will drain and not rust out from the inside. The overall thing got a coat of flat black trim paint. I sized up and glued 2 sections of corrugated steel together and drilled some holes to bolt it on. Its held together with some stainless nuts and bolts. The hinges are welded to the frame, and to that large angle iron attached to the post. I think its about 3 feet long and attached to the outer corner of the post. I debated for a long time about exactly how to do this before I decided on that design. I was wanting to keep the gate dual swing for a long time, but decided moving the hing there allowed it to swing open further, and would keep the hing out of the way if I ever lifted the gate off to get room. This also left a smaller gap around the frame for chickens to get through. The angle iron is held on with several lag bolts on the outside, and the "door jam" side it is held down with coated woodscrews that are counter sunk into the metal so the screw head is flush, the jam clearance is actually tight enough that screw heads would hit the gate when closed!
  7. Helper dog: Posts in, trimmed to height so the top of the fence is level, and corrugated steel panels cut to size. Since the steel is dimensioned to be able to screw into a roof with 16" on center rafter the size works out so that you can overlap and screw down both pieces, however I had an oddball sized opening, I think about 36" so I had to cut 2 pieces, overlap them a few ripples and then use construction adhesive to hold them together. In addition each piece had to be custom cut since the slop of the patio changed the dimension. What I had was an opening that was square at the top, but angled at the bottom. I left just enough space at the bottom that I could rinse and shovel some snow, but not enough for adult chickens to get through. However the small chicks were able to get through for several months before they got big enough not fit. I capped this part with just a simple 2x4. It would have been fine to stay that way except I had more plans. I used leftover 2x2s to sandwhich the steel at the bottom, so the slots on the side hold it, and the 2x2s at the bottom, This leaves a nice even 4x4 aesthetic. I also had EXACTLY enough leftover 2x2s for this, not a single extra piece. Temp board to keep chickens on their side: Perfectly level across the top: See how it "grows" on the right side? Thats because the patio slopes but I wanted a level top, made everything more work to keep it even. Now this was me thinking about the bar top and how to execute it, I reused the 2x6s that I incorrectly bough and cut several up to make the bar top. Also, this chicken looks sad. A view from a little ways back: I used some 2x4x12' pressure treated help limp along the fence here for awhile, it has this stupid shutterboard style fence that uses just as many boards as a regular fence, but you can see through, I took down my boards on my side, put up the 2x4x12', and then put my boards and some spares back up. The result was a cheap and quick better looking fence.
  8. Then I bought a little more dewalt stuff. Diesel can share with a friend: Chickens still have issues with the coop, they are not smart: 3 nesting boxes but they only want to use 1: I don't know why I took this: So then I moved on to the fence. Basically I wanted a nice fence/bar combo that would be the barrier to the chicken yard. I used Justins HF router table to put a 0.5x0.5" slot in the 4x4s, then placed several cedar 4x4s at the edge of the patio. Also that blue post leveler is awesome! Now I wasn't going to have the posts this high for the fence in final form, but each one needed to be a different length due to how deep it was buried and the fact that my ground is sloped away from the house. I wanted to use corrugated galvanized steel for the fence since I like the aesthetic:
  9. Getting my shade slats up, I tried both working from the top and from below on the ladder when I eventually decided the ladder was easier, but occasionally I would work up top for something, I used the 2x6s up there for a plateform while working. Neat patterns: So because the slats ran parallel to the house it made some of the spacing a bit weird, so the last row I had to measure each one, cut in in about half, and then figure out how best to use material, I was pretty low on 2x2s so I didn't want to waste any. You can see the minor variations in length including the weird one at the end. Then I used a chalk string to make the line I wanted to cut them to, and then used a long straight edge I clamped down to the 2x2s as a guide, and ran the circular saw alone the length of the pergola, wound up with a perfectly straight line of 2x2s. The was extra important to me since its very easy to see when you walk out the back door, this view is basically how it looks standing with the back door opened. Then I had to stop and go commission a new US Navy ship: And then when I got back I put up some rechargeable weather proof wireless speakers: Then I got all my bistro lights up, these were ones I had bought at costco over the years when they had the actual filament bulbs available. I love LEDs but I hadn't had a chance to see if the LEDs had the right light output for the space I wanted outdoors. I think the LEDs would have been fine, but at the time I didn't want to risk it.
  10. These are the last of the big boards, 18 ft long! Most everything fit inside the van nicely but these few needed to be left sticking out the back and flagged. Used this for staining: Almost done, for the last few boards on the long end I wasn't able to put on my 45 degree cut without them being too short, I had done the math and though I would be ok to the end, but it turns out I was a little off. All rafters up, starting to work on the 2x2 shade slats. Slowly getting there:
  11. So after chopping some height off of the main posts so that the eventual height of the pergola was no higher than my gutter. I got them back up and got the beams in place, this part went fairly fast. The rafters and shade slats took forever it felt like. Chickens were ever watchful: This is the old fence that used to lock the chickens in their part of the yard, it was mended temporarily to keep them over there while I worked on the new fence. Then we adopted a dog named Diesel: Then I started getting the rafters up, again I made a mistake and bought the wrong size, when I was looking at the span I did it on the small end, since the pergola grows in span the rafter boards were not sized correct, iuckily this was only half the material I needed for the rafters, so I ordered correct material for the whole thing. I was able to repurpose the incorrect material for some other projects. Since the pergola grows in size with the patio I decided not to cut the boards to notch them into the beams. I would have preferred to do it that way but it was enough of a pain already to get them cut to length and spaced correct without having to notch them. I wouldn't mind adding an extra bracket on each to help hold everything in place, and I might still do that.
  12. I decided for the design that I wanted to "T" the top of the posts so my beams sat on it instead of held to it with a bracket. I really liked the way this worked out. To notch it I set the depth of the saw, and then made a bunch of little slices, which then just broke off easily by hand: It is possible to get some big slices as well: Then just a little hand sanding to get the "burrs" off: Yet another mistake I made, I ordered the brackets and got them for milled and not nominal, so a few posts I had to shaved a little at the bottom for them to fit the brackets. A little more labor, but not too much trouble. Fits nicely at the top: Ok this was the first version. This pergola is too damm high! Realized that onces I added the cross beams and slats the whole thing would be like 3' higher than the gutter on the house! So they had to get trimmed. I think the height would have been fine if the pergola had been freestanding away from a house, or if my house had been 2 story.
  13. Not much happened until Feb of 2018, when I got into the pergola project. With the wedding looming for the beginning of July I had to ramp up the pergola build. Not really pictured, but there is a concrete footer below each black bracket, the bracket is held down with a single 5/8 rod which is glued into the concrete with some crazy strong blue 2 part glue thats about $15 a tube. A nut gets put on top of the rod to bolt the bracket down. The pergola uses 6 6x6"x8' cedar posts, I actually bought 10' when I was thinking they would be concreted in the ground, and then realized my mistake and had to cut them down as I had already notched the tops. oops, that was a pricey mistake since the 8' posts were much cheaper. I actually modeled the pergola in ProE and had a coworker print the parts on his 3d printer, the printer broke part way through the print and I never actually finished getting the scale model built, but the few parts I did have was enough to get me an idea of what it would be like, and I made some design changes. Its 10' between posts and the end of the pergola cantelivers out over my patio by the grass, I wanted to keep the posts where they were not in the way but also get some more shade coverage on the patio.
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