JIMMYRIG

Now that you mention it, I looked closely at all the options and they're all for the rear corner window. I didn't even look that hard when I searched I just saw prices and immediately closed out tabs haha At this point I might just urethane the windows and never open them again. I've never seen the solid windows at any junkyard

I need the corner windows that do not open (not the wing style). Wings leak too much and seals are crazy expensive

Ok, phew! Thanks. So is there any negative to leaving the line unplugged that way the part time light actually still reflects t-case engagment. And is there a safe way to test that the front axle is engaging properly without jacking up the front wheels?

I have dana 30 with cad delete and i believe an np231 transfer case in my 89. I used to be able to engage/disengage 4x4 and the part time light would correctly reflect that. After engaging last night its now stuck on. Its the first time I engaged since plugging vacuum lines. Would the lines have any affect on the switch? Or could it just be a stuck switch or wiring gremlins?

Also this cover doesn't have the bracket for the center console to mount to

Ok that was my question - if the OE boot was still made. Thanks

Found this on FB. Looks pretty similar to what I had. I have a BA10/5 but boot looks the same. I have run a leather boot before but but lately I've been trying to keep everything looking factory

I bet I could cut some sheet metal up to do the same but I still feel like there's got to be a factory inner boot for the 84-96 years of Cherokee out there somewhere. It looks pretty similar to the TJ boot but just isn't ribbed. The ribs are what's giving me an issue - it makes it way too stiff. Without that inner boot it shifts so much easier and stays in gear. When I first installed the 97-01 inner boot it would sometimes even kick out of 3rd, even when I was up in the 3-4k rpm range. Def not good for the trans

In need of burgundy interior - I have seats and door cards from a 89 Cherokee Laredo, I just need everything else to match

My experience with the Quadratec part listed above for the 97-01 is that it’s quite stiff and rubs up against the mount for the center console which makes it really hard to get into reverse. Once I’m in reverse I have to hold the shifter in place firmly otherwise it grinds and kicks out of gear. The factory inner boot had the same footprint but wasn’t ribbed. I see one from oreilly with no screws - not sure how this works but I am in need of a new, new boot. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-oe-solutions/dorman-oe-solutions-transmission-shift-tower-boot/doe0/926136

Yeah I saw this, I already spent 50 dollars on a tube of urethane and want to make use of it before spending more money on a gasket. It also appears there are holes in the connector that would not be sealed by a gasket

For those who have used sealers in caulk gun form, where are you applying sealer? I sealed from the cab side with urethane, then installed the fuse box and applied more on the engine side before bolting in the bulk head and it still leaks

That's huge, thank you. I spent 50 bucks on a tube of urethane and globbed it all over the inside and outside of bulk head. Well see how it goes, if it doesn't work ill try this.

What would you recommend using to seal it? I've gotten pretty used to pulling the fuze box apart so shouldn't be that bad. Maybe a diy weather strip cutout?

Ok. Anyone got ideas for waterproofing the fuse box? I think it will be easier to seal the firewall at the fuse connector than preventing water from inevitably entering the engine bay