87MJTIM

Since the prior owner operated as a sole prop., you could go after him personally. Unless he operated out of his house (or still owns the building the new buyer operates in), a mechanics lien may not attach to the building you performed your work. The owner of the building did not contract with you. The fact that the PO ran up bills/debts is of no concern for the buyer. The buyer is under no obligation to pay the PO's bills. (Truth be told, if I were the buyer, I would tell you go back to the PO.) The buyer's verbal promise to pay the debt is as good as the paper it is printed on. As Eagle said, your best bet is to take him to small claims court. Be prepared with your documentation of the work you performed, your cost of materials, and your time. Have your girlfriend available to support you, if necessary. Or... As many people before you have learned (I am on the list), use it as a learning experience. Next time, write up a contract/agreement of what you will do. Have him sign it. Request a deposit before you start work. Some states limit deposits to a % of the contract (33%). Check local law before you write. Demand payment upon completion. If I collected on all the work I've done the past 20+ years that didn't pay, I could purchase a new JLU Ruby!

I am a CPA, not an attorney. That said, here are my first questions: How did to old owner operate the business: corporation, LLC, or sole proprietor? How did the sale of the business occur: was it a "stock" sale, or was it an "asset" sale? Depending on the answers to above questions will determine IF you can collect and FROM WHOM you can collect. (My first thought is you have to go to the old owner.)

Your MJ won’t mind if ride another Jeep....

If the holes were good, then the bolts must be too small. It has to be one or the other.

Maybe the PO retapped the bolt holes. Try getting bolts that are a size larger - probably metric sizes.

Whenever someone has the symptoms you describe, I think CPS. You should test it before changing it. Cruiser has testing procedures for the CPS. www.cruiser54.com

Most CD drives have a pin hole in the front. This a manual opening override. She should take a paperclip, straighten it out, and push it in to the pin hole. This has worked for me. Disclaimer: I do not, and have not owned a Mac. I don't know if Apple puts the pin hole on them.

Check the opposite end of the cable. Make sure you didn't pull the cable out of the gauge side. Just a thought.

I just replaced the spring on mine. Now the pedal doesn't bounce back when I push it down.

Found the problem. and the winner is....Ohm! The C203 connector came loose. I pushed it in tighter and all the gauges and lights work as AMC/Jeep intended. Thanks for your help, always appreciated.

One that doesn't leak ? (Joking)

Not yet...too cold to be outside and the sun sets too early to see after work. I want to get it this weekend. I have located and pulled out the older headlight switch.

That could be, although, I did do Cruiser's dash ground upgrade. I have an older light switch I will throw in to it. ( I kept the previous light switch from a prior "parts cannon" repair. Changing the switch did not fix the original issue, so I kept the old one.)

That was my first though, also. However, the instrument lights and gauges run off different circuits. Why would one effect the other?

I searched for that on the 'net. However, I came up with Mygrant Glass. HQ'd in Hayward, CA., but they have two locations near me (and you): B'more and Lanham, MD