87MJTIM

Hopefully someone can change the link to the pdf to include the correct page. hint hint

Since I have never seen the page before, I can only say that looks like it.

Every download copy of the Renix FI manual is missing page 59, but has two copies of p. 58. I am sure all the downloads are from the same source. Does p. 59 have any info? Does anyone have a paper copy of the manual? Can p. 59 be uploaded to this website? Edit: p. 59 is the manual's page number, not the pdf page number.

The All Breeds Jeep Show that was formerly in York, then moved to Carlisle, has moved to Gettysburg PA. It will be August 14-15 (Friday-Saturday) at the WWII museum. Additional information can be found at: https://gettysburgjeepfest.com/ If I can get there I would be there on Saturday

https://www.pyp.com/inventory/edgewood-1209/?search=Jeep https://www.pyp.com/inventory/edgewood-1209/?search=Jeep I can’t get there but if anyone needs some parts. I see a bench seat and a column shifter

Glad to see it worked for you.

I saw this on YT once: Attach a shop vac on blower to the exhaust pipe. Get a spray bottle of soapy water and start spraying around the manifold and collector pipe looking for bubbles.

When my cat crumbled on the inside my power and acceleration really suffered. It would idle just fine, it just couldn’t keep up with its own shadow.

1991 Jeep Book and color swatch from my 91 XJ

I can remember when dirt was young.

One of my brothers bought a 64.5 Mustang coupe with a 170 3 speed in ‘78. He joined the Air Force in 1980. My dad bought it from him. I drove it to high school for two years. It wasn’t a fast powerful car. But it was fun to drive.

Follow up/Conclusion: I tested the pressure in the tank by placing a baggie over the cap held in place with a rubber band. When I opened the cap, the baggie filled up like a balloon. So, it was pressure and not vacuum. I looked at the system to figure where to start testing for the problem. The easiest place to start was the EVAP canister. I used a vacuum pump on the vent line in the engine bay at the EVAP canister. I pulled 15 lbs. vacuum and it held steady. I did the same testing at the 'T' connector at the tank. The line to front was clear; it did not hold vacuum. However, both lines to the Roll Over/Vent Valves (RO/VV) held vacuum. Great! Now I have to drop the tank. I bought two RO/VV to have ready. Finally, the weather cooperated for me to do the work. I moved the drive shaft out of the way. I dropped the tank skid plate. I disconnected the wires, hoses, and fuel lines from the tank. Using a Harbor Freight trans jack, I lowered that tank. Thankfully, it was below a 1/4 tank. Once I lower the tank, I saw the problem. During the truck's restoration, when the shop placed the bed on the rear frame, the vent hoses got crushed under the bed's ribbing. No air would flow through the lines. I tested the RO/VV and both were working fine. I replaced the vent hoses, being careful to route the lines so they would not be crushed. I reversed all my steps to get it back together. Thankfully, I had no spare parts laying around.

This thread discuss CC diagnosis EDIT - corrected link

It's vacuum. When I open the cap, the air is pulled in to the tank. After testing it, found that it was pressure.

I am the original owner. The 87 4.0 didn't come from the factory with the resistor. It was a later addition and dealer installed TSB. I can access the pump/sending unit from under the truck. It is side mounted.