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About 87MJTIM

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    MJ Junkie

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    New Market, Frederick Co. MD

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  1. Got your pencil ready? Since the BA10 came with an internal slave cylinder and a 95 AX15 has an external slave cylinder, you will need to swap the hydraulic system to the external set up. For the AX15, BE SURE to get the cross member and trans mounting bracket. The old BA10 will not fit the AX15. You should replace the whole clutch kit (disk and pressure plate). When I did my swap, I read up on the steps and parts needed to do it. Many of the threads "suggested" that the clutch systems will work with the internal slave BA10 and the external slave AX15. It did work, but it never felt smooth to shift. I did additional research and found that the pressure plates changed when the AX15s switched from internal to external slaves. (I used Rockauto to compare separate part numbers for a) clutch kits, b) clutch disks, and c) pressure plates across multiple years. The kits and pressure plates changed when the switch to ext. occurred. The disks stayed the same for the life of the MJ/XL line.) When you remove the two top bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine (E12), be sure to take them to a body of water and throw them as far as you can into the water. Go and get yourself some hex head bolts to replace them. As stated above, the input shaft tip of the 95 AX15 is approx. 0.75", while your BA10 has tip of approx. 0.5". Be sure to get the correct bushing/bearing. For the later model AX15s, a proper fitting pilot bushing is Timken PB77HD, search under a 73 CJ5 304 ci Good luck. I love the AX15.
  2. Does the problem continue after unplugging the trailer? If so, then I would look at the trailer wiring. The lights for the trailer got wet. They’re connected to the rest of the truck through the harness
  3. Is this a truck you want to keep? Is there a sentimental value to it? I am an original owner for mine. For several years, it was a "weekend to the hardware store" truck. I only put a 1,000 miles on it for several years. I started looking for a newer truck around 2010. There was nothing that I liked as much as the MJ. I realized that the price of a new truck was less than the cost of fixing the old MJ. That included an engine rebuild and rust repair and painting. It is now (again) my DD. I love it and want it to last another 30+ years. I have learned to perform most of the maintenance on it thanks to everyone one on ComancheClub.com (especially Cruiser and HornBro [RIP]). Does your MJ have sentimental value - original owner or inherited from a relative? Are you mechanically inclined? Do you want to learn? From the pictures you posted, I would QUICKLY pay you $1500 for it. I think that price is low from the pictures. Start higher and negotiate downward. Or, look at it getting repaired - body and paint (~$5000 to $8000) depending on shop and amount of work required. For maintenance issues, if you are willing to do your own work, the cost of parts and your time are all you need (oh, and tools...lots of tools.) There is a personal satisfaction in doing things yourself. There is a wealth of info on CC (and other forums) on fixing Jeeps. Find those documents. The 88 MJ electrical manual is available in the DIY section. The Renix fuel system is downloadable there, also. Download them, save them, print them out and read them (especially the Renix fuel system). Good luck. I hope you are able to keep it. Keep up with CC and ask questions - lots of questions. We're very friendly here and are willing to give you advice.
  4. 97 fuel pump??? That must have come from an XJ. Did they tell you the pump/sending units face the opposite direction in an XJ? There is a reason it doesn't fit: because it DOESN'T fit!
  5. Is the reservoir cap bad? If steam is coming out, the cap may be (probably) busted and can't hold the pressure. Without the pressure, the engine will over heat. (Ask me how I know.) Try replacing the cap with a Volvo cap. (See Cruiser54.com for the part number.)
  6. The OP with need the transmission cross member and mounting bracket for the AX15. Additionally he needs the bell housing and shift fork from the inside bell housing. The two transmissions are the same length. No need to change the driveshafts. Other parts will be needed that a shop will provide. I did the lots of research before I did my swap. It took me a weekend just by myself.
  7. Check local junk yards. I picked up one for about $135. The other parts to convert to external slave may run another $250. For $500 and your time you can do the swap
  8. Don’t know yet. I got them for future use
  9. ZM Jeeps from Toledo OH sells MJ rockers. He doesn’t list them on his site. I picked up R & L at a York PA Jeep show. stores.zmjeeps.com
  10. The seals on the master may be going bad. When you press the pedal, fluid is leaking paste the seal and you lose pressure. Purchase a new MC. Or... Look inside the cab where the MC come through the firewall. Is it damp? If so, feel the top of the fuse block. Is it damp? If so, the MC is leaking inside the cab. Not good new. Or... The slave cyl you purchased is bad. Not unheard of. The would mean changing it out...again. I got tired of changing slave cylinders (internal) so I swapped out trans to an external slave AX15 (94+). You can purchase for a 2wd AX15 for probably not much $$, Jeep owners are willing to part with a 2wd AX15 (94+) when they convert to 4wd.
  11. This was long ago. Out with the old, on with the new. I sold the end caps, tops and the license plate light caps to someone on CC. ( I kept the mounting brackets.)
  12. 9/20 - such a good day. It will be Dzimm's anniversary and it is my birthday. Congratulations to you and your bride.
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