coolwind57

...not tracking you on this one...

Yea, I hear the quartz ones are brighter and clearer. Should be simple to repin/retrofit a harness to match. This site has all the wiring details: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoDashClock.htm I'm fine with rewiring in a molex connector set if needed. I trip over these connectors at my aviation school.

I've seen no benefit. I feel I benefit by not having it. It is so much easier to see and to reach around in this area now. And no worries about a 30+ year old EGR inevitably interfering with drivability. I'd deleted mine back in 2018 and haven't looked back since. If there's a disadvantage, I hadn't be able to tell. Here's a pic of what it looks now: I had been doing some work on my header, repairing cracks, adding gussets. While in there, I cut the tube connecting header and EGR. Welded header at pipe opening. I removed, then cut off all of the stuff attached to the cast iron EGR housing. Using a piece of scrap flat metal, I cut it in the same profile as the EGR housing. I then smeared some RTV on one side of my sheet metal and used the EGR housing to sandwich it to the intake manifold. Prior to, I painted it red just for fun.

No I wasn't going to bother pulling it to get the part number. I'd like the ones with blue connectors if I get a choice. I'll re-pin any connector that doesn't fit my current harness. So allow me to revise my question: Anyone have a dash clock with a blue connector that they'd sell me?

The clock I installed a couple of years ago began to lose some parts of it's digits a few Months ago. Now I'm blowing the fuse, which also kills my interior lights. So, who's got a good-working dash clock they'd be willing to sell me? There's a couple on Ebay, but I'd prefer to buy from one of you guys.

I've got a set of these in my Aviation toolbox. Good stuff.

What kind of fitment issues? I certainly can't tell in the pics of there was modifications to the sheet metal. These actually look pretty good to me.

58484 Monroe Loadleveler shocks. I did have to run to ACE Hardware and buy 4 brass bushings to bring the ID of the shock eyelets to the 5/8" needed. I also had to bend over a gas tank edge with some pliers a little but it was no sweat. I've had them on for a year now and I'm happy with them. If I remember correctly, I have a couple inches of lift.

T-53 maybe?

My fuel lines that run through the flange were leaking. Regular JB Weld worked for me for just under a year. For those with this type of leak, use the white-colored JB "WaterWeld next and it's the stuff to go with. Don't waste your time on regular JB Weld. It won't last. Brazing is really the best, most permanent solution. If/when my white WaterWeld fails, that's what I'll do next.

Got it! I think it was the cps connector. Praise God. I disconnected, reconnected and it fired right up. Thanks for the input fellas.

It’s a year old. Checks out ok.

Swapped out ballast resistor to no avail. Just happen to have one in my cab. Cranking sounds normal. Really acts like it wants to start. Kind of sounds like maybe no fuel?

Horrible spelling, sorry guys. Using my phone—I hope you Are getting my drift. It just sputters and never really gains self supporting idle.

Before I call a wrecker, throwing out a request for help here. Was just leaving AutoZone and I had a sudden sputtering, loss of power. Was able to get it back in a parking lot before it dying and I shut it off. Went to crank again and it just buttered and would not start. Was thinking I running out of gas, so I put gas in. It cranks and cranks and seems to want to start, but just kind of spiders and will not idle on its own. Any ideas you can throw at me before I call a wrecker? I’m having them charge my battery at the moment because it was only at 40% after my attempts at cranking.

That crazy line from TB to MAP is THE 1st place to look for those that say, "Man, my engine is running like $h%!". Been there, done that bro.

If you fix your existing, then I might recommend welding some gussets in between those primaries--but installing a flex pipe like Eagle mentions seems to be the path to eliminating future cracking. I'd done both on mine.

Man, I'd seriously consider swapping out those rear freeze plugs while you're back there. Been there, done that.

ha! Yep, good point. Hey man, get that signature filled out when you get some time. We'd like to know more about you, where you're from, etc. Welcome to the club!

I'm actually back in school, working on gaining a 3rd career as an A&P. Just finished up Powerplant last semester and I'm now in my first semester of Airframe. Probably do my Gen and PP written tests this Spring when the semester ends. Is it fun out there in the A&P world?

Another hour or so South and you'll see my olive drab LB roaming the streets of New Albany. Drove it to work today. I run across an MJ maybe once every Quarter or so. They're rather rare.

Body looks good as far as we can see. Maybe there sits a coveted AMC20 all up under there....

Wow. Just now registered. Opened the auction again and the bid is up from $0 to $550. I'll pass.

I wouldn't mind buying to nab the tailgate, rear lenses and the back windshield. Looks like you have to buy at least a $59 membership just to bid though, so that kinda blows. $125 bid increments. I am wondering if that truck is over at Pull-A-Part, Louisville. I am struggling to confirm by the pictures. I'm about 20-minutes away if so. Where are you guys seeing that it's been coated with bedliner? Looks like spray balm black.

Well that's interesting. I was at Camp Hansen in 94-95 and I worked at 3rd SRIG motorpool for a Month or two before being transferred to their S-3. In fact, I dispatched for a short time there. At 3rd SRIG, we have 800 and 900s along with HMMVWs and probably a few old Jeeps. I probably arrived at Camp Hansen Summer of 94, so I probably just missed you.