coolwind57

I welded the cracks and then installed gussets between I think the last couple of header primaries. For the gussets, I just cut some triangular pieces of 1/4" flat stock I had laying around and welded them in place to further strengthen the primaries that were most prone to cracking. You may consider this as an extra header strengthener as you're welding your cracks. Also, I did the flex pipe mod. Here's some stuff taken from my build page that may interest you: So today I stopped by the exhaust shop. Got some pics. Now that I'm back up and running, I am concerned about my exhaust header cracking again. I had welded the cracks on my header when I had it out of the vehicle and even welded on a gusset between the last two primaries. Upon advice from the forum, I had a 6" flex pipe welded on my header pipe. Also, I wanted to address additional support (hangers) with the shop and I asked them to put an additional hanger at the bellhousing. I had to ask what the tab bolted onto my bell housing was a few weeks ago because it did not appear to attach to anything. Well, the guys welded on a clamp, giving the front of my exhaust system some additional support: Additionally, a shop guy said that I was probably suppose to have one at the transmission mount. I had no idea that there was suppose to be one there. A PO had deleted my CAT so perhaps that's why I didn't know that anything mounted there. Anyhow, he corrected it by installing this: So, I feel much better about hitting bumps and flexing my truck now. He charged me like $30 for parts and I think $80 labor, which I didn't feel was too bad. I have a flux-core welder and can get by with minor welding, but I was really ok with giving this job to a pro. I feel it paid off as I learned a thing or two from them today.

A little late on my build page, but: I got my 58484 Monroe Loadleveler shocks installed back in October. I did have to run to ACE Hardware and buy 4 brass bushings to bring the ID of the shock eyelets to the 5/8" needed. I also had to bend over a gas tank edge with some pliers a little but it was no sweat. See new clearance in the 3rd pic. I have the larger MJ fuel tank, btw. My brake line and rear wiring went overtop of the shock already. I did have to hang the e-brake cable a bit further from the coils of the new shock, which I did after 3rd the pic was taken. These shocks raised my rear end a couple of inches and I'm fine with it. I also installed Bilstein 5100s, part #24-185622 up front. I took a 100-mile trip to Indianapolis and I'm pleased. I'm anxious to haul some wood in the back now and see how she performs compared to before. Of the 4 shocks I replaced, 3 were bad. One had blow completely and was leaking, the other two extended/compressed inconsistently. This was well-needed replacement and I think a great upgrade. Looking for coilover rear shocks to boost your load capacity? 58484 Monroe's unlike the others, are available and seem to be your answer.

MeanLemons, I'm still very happy with the one I bought from you. Thanks for getting out there and making something happen for your brethren here at CC.

Well he just replied back. He says it's a Dana 35 rear. Those springs are surely not stock, it seems. Thanks for your input, fellas. Back to my search for a D44....

Ran across an ad for a parting-out MJ. I zoomed in on the pics and saw these rear springs: I'm intrigued. Man, I think these are possibly 4+1 metric ton springs. I contacted the dude to ask if he had a Dana 44 sitting up under there. He's not sure, as he's not really up on what he's got there in the Comanche, but is going to verify everything when he gets home. Its a 1988 with an automatic trans, so I'm hoping for 3:55 ratio to match my front 3:55 on my 89 MJ. Again he seems to know little about this stuff, only saying that he thought it was all "heavy-duty." I've offered to buy the springs and rear axle if it's an MT 3:55. It's in the next State over, but if the stars align up ,then I'm game for a road trip. I didn't mention the front coils, but if its true metric-ton, then I'd offer to buy them too--as I understand their slightly beefier too, correct? Any comments from you metric ton experts? This look promising?

I'm still curious if your wiring setup is different than the ones I have in my photos. Again, I have no "delay" feature. I ran my ground wire to one of the T30 bolts mounting one of the wiper arm stems. I wonder if you're grounding out the LOW by using the lid instead or something.

One thing stands out to me: You mention a "delay" mode.... I don't have a delay on my 89. Just a Off/LOW/HIGH switch on my steering column stem. I wonder if the additional ground has something to do with it. Was your wiring exactly as mine are in the pics?

Mine were horrible before doing these mods. The blades would never consistently line up on the windshield and no matter how i adjusted them, they'd usually always slide off onto the windshield trim, making noise. The bushings were the culprit to this issue. I especially like the upgraded 97+ wiper arms with the J-hooks over the stock pin-type arms. The design just makes so much more sense. Also, upgrading the grounds--across the entire truck, is always a need on our MJs.

Praise the Lord you survived it, my brother. Pretty scary stuff.

I had forgotten to post to my build thread when i bought them, but I thought these D-rings were a cool decorative touch to my military-theme:

I think my plan is to stick with 3:55 (same as I have up front) when I purchase my KJ axle. I'm running 31s with no desire to increase that size. Starting to look like no one has actually done a KJ 8.25 swap. I'm taking my time, as I have nearly zero down time these days, but I'll surely do a write up or at least show progress as I transition out of my noisy D35.

Did you guys see this 1986 2.8l with only 58K miles? Very clean. Only real problem is that there's no title. And the guy seems resistant to help acquire one. I really dig those 10-slot grills. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-Jeep-Comanche/293339009577?hash=item444c5e1229:g:zcIAAOSw1LJd1Eoj

Go here, Virginia: About 5 posts down.

Me.

Interested in hearing observations as well. Slowly working on prepping for a rear axle swap in my near future. I'd like to hear from someone who has done a KJ axle swap.

Let's try this again: Installed my newly-acquired Lund visor after sanding/prepping and a few coats of bedliner black. Really changes the look of the truck.

Installed my newly-acquired Lund visor after sanding/prepping and a few coats of bedliner black. Really changes the look of the truck.

I'd been searching for a deal on a unicorn Lund visor and last week was finally my time. I picked this one up for $50 + $35 for shipping (along with a windshield trim piece). It had zero cracks, but badly faded paint. DA-sanded, and sprayed with black truck bed liner like the rest of my black trim. Installation was tedious. I bought all the SS fasteners from my local ACE hardware. I'm thrilled.

Mine suddenly stopped on me once. Motor continued to make some noise, so I figured it likely wasn't the problem. Turns out, parts of the wiper motor assembly came apart. There are 3 or 4 bolts that hold it all together, which overtime became loose and at least one totally backed out of its hole. It was essentially falling apart. Check out this pic-heavy tread to learn a little more about what Jeep put together for our wiper systems:

You're talking about windshield replacement along with the upgraded rubber trim, right? I sure was hoping to just replace my metal trim with rubber without messing with the windshield.

Here's an interesting chart: https://www.revolutiongear.com/gear_ratio_chart

Ok, so I had to owner to double check and pull the cover. He did. He recounted as well as found markings on the gear. Also, checked the housing and found a "C" stamped on there. All three of these indicate 4.10. So, the question now is this: What ratio should I make both of my axles if I choose to buy the AMC20? I'm pretty intrigued. Situation once again: 1989, auto trans, 31s (which I don't foresee going any larger), mostly hard pavement, with just a little 4x4 action hauling wood on occasion. Sorry guys, I wish I knew and understood all variables to make a call that fits my truck and my needs.

Or it was regeared to 3:73. Morris 4X4 Center sells 3:73 for AMC20.

Yes, that was my understanding too. I had even asked the seller about it. He said, "that is what the gears come out to. I've counted." I may need to ask him to look for a stamping on the internals to really confirm providing AMC did that. I was under the impression that swapping the D30 axle is actually cheaper than re-gearing it. Significantly. And not that much more of a pain to do. Am I off on that?

I've got some slight noise coming from what I feel is my rear D35 axle. I think I have a minor seal leak to boot. I'm probably on borrowed time before my axle goes out. I'm currently running 31s and I rarely go off pavement, engaging the 4x4. I occasionally load up the bed with mostly firewood runs. I understand that I have the stock 3:55 ratio in my stock automatic trans 1989 model. And I'm still stock, spring under axle. So, I found a local MJ AMC20 for sale. Its really quite appealing, but I was told the ratio is 3:73. According to what I'm reading, the differing ratios from front to rear would be too great for proper 4x4 engagement if I were to swap her in. Also, if what I'm reading is correct, swapping out gears for either the AMC20 or the front D30 to get a match would probably be quite a bit more expensive and time-consuming than the other option I'm looking at: a 03-07 Jeep Liberty 8.25 (with disk brakes) swap. Another option as I understand would be to just swap out the front with another D30 that has 3:73 already to match that of the AMC20. I see this is probably more involved and time consuming as simply doing the simple mods of prepping a 3:55 ratio Liberty 8.25 and slapping on back there. A bit of cutting/grinding of brackets and welding new perches at my leisure is what it would take, as I understand. I dig any and all true, significant upgrades and the disk-braked 8.25 is really cool. But the AMC20 is even badder-assed--both in looks/exclusiveness and stength. Overall, I think I'd be happy with whichever makes the most sense considering costs and my very limited time. I don't think I want to consider any D35 options. Not having done much of any work with axles, are there any options I'm missing here or is anything I'm understanding above that is inaccurate or overstated? Would love to read your constructive thoughts of my situation. The MJ AMC20 is $400. I think the Liberty 8.25s run between $200-300 around these parts.