coolwind57

Yea....my glass is fine. Just wanted to get away from the metal and to a more cleaner look. Especially now that one piece blew off on the highway the other day. I may see if I can pull one from a junkyard and retrofit or something. May have to dice it up a bit. I appreciate the input.

I've unsuccessfully searched for the member that apparently used later-model XJ full, one-piece rubber windshield trim on his MJ. I'd like to do this myself and was hoping to find a post talking about it. Any of you guys done this? If so, should I assume that it's pretty straight-forward?

If it started after tapping your starter, then you may be on borrowed time. Your relay/starter may be on its way out, amigo. If this is the case, you may have 0-10 more tappings to go before tapping doesn't work anymore. Get some more detailed testing done soon.

tap on those battery terminals while you're in the mood to tap components.

I've got this going on: I believe this is the reason my driveshaft and rear axle are all shiny and very-well lubricated.... I've never replaced a seal in a transfer case before. Is it pretty cut and dry? Lay on back in the gravel. Drop driveshaft. Pry out leaky seal with some needle nose or other clever technique. Press in new one? Top off? That about right? BTW: Thank you, Gentlemen.

This looks like a great buy for a 2wd Pioneer. Appears solid and with low miles. https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/pts/d/hamilton-1988-jeep-comanche-pioneer/7005672482.html Somebody snatch it up for a bit over a grand.

Oh, it's not an immediate start (its a Renix), but well within comfortable range again. You can tell it no longer struggles to start. Within a couple 2-3 seconds I'd say. Feels normal again.

Happy to report that after a year or so of embarrassingly long cranking and even more embarrassing fuel odor once my engine did fire, I have finally fixed the annoying problem. Thanks Warren Mohler for the great tip. I'll always remember this if I see others with similar symptoms. The installation of a new fuel pressure regulator solved the problem. I have a renewed love for my MJ now.

i installed the big oval to the rear on mine a couple years ago. One of my fav mods to date. I kinda doubt it matters which way it goes.

This is the type of tool you're referring to, right? Loaner from Autozone. Just helps to get them seated squarely I assume. Fellas, I really appreciate your insight on this. I think I know what Pete would say about putting time and money into this D35.... I may consider just keep adding fluid as necessary until I can acquire a D44 or a 8.25 for a swap....Spend hours on the D35 or hours on an upgraded axle?....hmmm. Something to think about. tool.webp

No sir. I think someone had done an add-a-leaf but no metric ton from what I know. It's a D35 axle too.

Aging. I would think you'd get some sagging over the years but I may be wrong. Pardon me if so.

So when I installed my rear shocks the other day, I noticed that I had some fluid of some type spinning out from my driver's side, interior-side rear wheel onto the tire. My first thought was that I had a brake cylinder going out. But I've detected no issues with my brakes here lately. Fluid level is good to go. Then I recalled that I'd been hearing some slight noise from what sounded like the rear end, but I wasn't sure since I just went from mud tires to ATs a couple of weeks ago. Aha. Well tonight, I didn't pull the rear tire but I did crawl under and uncapped my rear diff. Sure enough, I had to add 1/2 quart. So, without pulling the wheel and really inspecting, I'm pretty sure my axle seal(s) are bad. So what am in in for? Mine's a 1989 stock D35. The only thing I'd done to the diff is change the fluids about a year ago. I don't know much about them, as I've never separated shafts/gears before. Not sure if this is a C-clip or non. If I'm dealing with driver's side, there's two seals in there, right? I hadn't seen a write-up yet, so how's this going to go down? Is it a pain? Any tips?

Well, mine wasn't a stock height to begin with. I also wouldn't say mine had any noticable rake before the install. Previously, I had measured the lift by the PO to be 2" + up front and something like 1-3/4 + in the rear. I may have to go find my old notes to confirm, but that sounds about right. BTW, I'm rolling on 31 AT tires. Now that the Monroes are installed, I certainly have some rake, but I am very happy with it. I don't feel it's excessive. Just a bit higher in the back compared to the front and I think it makes it look better than before. I didn't measure it so that's why I stated "a coupe of inches". But I'd guess two. I can certainly tell that tail sits up higher. I picked up a small crate engine this weekend and definitely noticed the higher bed as I loaded. Pics don't always show perspective accurately, but here's an "after" shot: I would think that if one has a stock MJ, they probably are no longer at the original stock height by now. I would suggest anyone interested in trying the Monroe 58484s, despite age, changes made by POs and other variables to expect them to add a little height back there.

Check out the pics. I got my 58484 Monroe Loadleveler shocks installed. I did have to run to ACE Hardware and buy 4 brass bushings to bring the ID of the shock eyelets to the 5/8" needed. I also had to bend over a gas tank edge with some plyers a little but it was no sweat. See new clearance in the 3rd pic. I have the larger MJ fuel tank, btw. My brake line and rear wiring went overtop of the shock already. I did have to hang the e-brake cable a bit further from the coils of the new shock, which I did after 3rd the pic was taken. These shocks raised my rear end a couple of inches and I'm fine with it. I also installed Bilstein 5100s, part #24-185622 up front. I took a 100-mile trip to Indianapolis and I'm pleased. I'm anxious to haul some wood in the back now and see how she performs compared to before. Of the 4 shocks I replaced, 3 were bad. One had blow completely and was leaking, the other two extended/compressed inconsistantly. This was well-needed replacement and I think a great upgrade. Looking for coilover rear shocks to boost your load capacity? 58484 Monroe's unlike the others, are available and seem to be your answer.

Nice looking truck. I'm a flat-green-MJ kind of guy too.

After a more thorough troubleshooting, same here. I'm finding gasoline in my vacuum. Gotten any further, Hudy? I've got a new Standard Motor Products PR-21 on order from eBay. Paid $27. Local parts stores sell them for $70-85. I just have to wait nearly a week to get it in. Thanks Warren. It sure looks like this may be the gremlin I've been searching for.

Dang man, Warren Mohler was on to something! I hope this is your issue. Not a bad fix if this is the case, as fuel pressure regulators are only 25-50 bucks. I pulled my vacuum line both while sitting for a bit and immediately after the engine running. Mine is dry. Certainly has a fuel odor, but I'd think perhaps that's to be expected. I may parts cannon once again and pick up a regulator despite my adequate fuel pressure readings. Anxious to hear your results when you get a new regulator on there, Hudy. Good luck, man.

i kinda wondered if anyone would put the "IAT sensor relocate" mod on this tread. I think I remember HornBrod (RIP, Brother) not having a good experience with it. I had done this relocate on a HO Cherokee years ago, and toyed with the idea of doing it for my Renix MJ.

What's the big white thing mounted on the tranny hump? CB radio perhaps? Truck looks really nice, man. I'd love to see what that rear axle is. I'd also love to peel back the carpet a bit and see what those floor pans look like. Garage-kept or not, finding no rust there is like finding a unicorn. I'd be proud to own this one.

Just ordered mine through Walmart of all places, $63.58 with Indiana tax. They get them in quicker than Amazon and I have a Walmart walking distance from my work. Crazy variation in prices everywhere I found them. Costs for these shocks at auto parts stores are MUCH higher. FYI for those interested: The Monroe 58484 has a 9-inch travel length. Extended Length is 23.125" with compressed length at 14.125". Looks like a good fit for my truck. Anxious to have them installed. I'll take pics and give a review. Good find, Jeff's Jeep! Thanks man.

Good stuff, thanks! I did find them for $59.42/pair on Amazon and Walmart can get them for that price too. https://www.amazon.com/Monroe-58484-Adjust-Shock-Absorber/dp/B000CGEJJU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=58484+monroe&qid=1570711355&s=automotive&sr=1-1

I'd had this same condition TWICE since I've owned my truck. As soon as I read your symptoms, I immediately suspected the same culprit as MJCARENA did. Next time you have your throttle body off, do this: http://cruiser54.com/?p=280. It makes for a much better fix. Welcome to the addiction, my friend.

Great stuff. I'll run out and check mine later today. Thanks for the tip. Would be wonderful to finally resolve this dumb issue.

For those of you interested, Tomco of St. Louis, MO makes an Air Temperature Sensor and have for a while it seems. http://www.tomco-inc.com/ They do have a new part number, replacing the old #12120. New part number is 12134 and it runs $69.73. They have them in stock. Telephone: 314-646-5300 I read that some guys were using the 312-190, modifying with the AC Delco PT307 harness, which is quite a bit less expensive possible option. Just sharing what I've been searching about today.