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Posts
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Hudy's Achievements
Comanche Fan (3/11)
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Okay, this is all great information and advice. Now I need more input, Basecoat / clear coat or single stage paint? I'm fine with this being a 5-10 foot truck. I use it regularly as a work truck and it shows. And clearly, I've never painted before. What's my best bet?
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I also use the Hella H4 ECode housings with high wattage bulbs on a harness. We do have LED sealed beam replacements on the trucks at work which are from JW Speaker. They are very impressive, and also very expensive.
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I'm really impressed but the wealth of knowledge here, you guys are awesome. Should I shoot both an epoxy primer and a (urethane?) sealer? I assume I'll sand it with a DA sander? What grit will I need? I'm planning to stay as close as possible to the stock Dark Baltic Metallic. Is this something PPG or another manufacturer can match, or do I pick one of their colors that's "close enough"? Thanks again!
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Hello All, I'm looking for some guidance on paint. My MJ has major clear coat failure and I'd like to simply just paint it myself. I get the general ideas of prep work, sanding, painting, but I'm not sure how far I need to go with sanding. Must I remove all paint chemically to bare metal, or can I get by with a few hours of sanding, followed by primer and paint? Photos attached to show level of failure. With some guidance I know I can do this on my own.
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Lots of weight over the past few years... my MJ served my entire home renovation, and now works my contracting business.
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After a few days of driving I’m comfortable enough to report that the fuel pressure regulator fixed it for me also. 5 years of cranking and cranking. Can’t believe it. Thanks everyone.
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Finally got back to this today. Under a normal start condition, the fuel pressure regulator has a very small leak. Fuel pressure is ~32PSI. When a no start condition exists, the pressure pressure regulator has a SIGNIFICANT LEAK. Fuel pressure is ~40PSI. So, I also have a new regulator on order. Report to follow when it's in.
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Well, looks like my fuel pressure regulator is leaking fuel into the vacuum system. Pulled the vacuum line off to discover fuel dripping from the line. Strange, because I am holding fuel pressure.
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Yes, using Cruisers guide checked TPS valued using a mulimeter. Yes, exhaust goes from rich to lean quickly. I am skeptical on the CTS still. I’ll install that tomorrow. Unfortunately I only had the tool for a snapshot and couldn’t keep it to monitor data as the motor heats up.
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Yeah... although I don't regret buying the ECU. I'll probably leave the reman installed and put the old one in the basement as a spare. Who knows how long these units will be available for. Anyway: The issue persists with the hot starting. I had adjusted the TPS using cruiser's guide, and actually rechecked the spec a few days ago and it was where it needed to be. Is there more to check here? With the coolant temp at 199*, shouldn't the system be in OPEN loop?
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New ECU install, not sure yet on repair status. Turns out the Snapon tool I had was faulty (reading the same even with the ECU unplugged). Located a new tool quickly, readings attached.
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I used a resistance chart to determine whether the MAT (manifold air temp) Sensor was functioning properly. I had a spare, so I tested that one first. Used heat gun to heat the unit and a thermometer gun to read the temp, and compared that to the resistance shown on the meter. The spare tested good, so I installed it. I took the existing (old) sensor out, and tested that one, which tested BAD; the values it showed were false COLD. I also have a spare CTS, which I tested using the same method. I haven't installed that one yet. I did receive a new ECU in the mail today. I'll install that tomorrow and report back with the findings. Chart attached. I could see this happening in your case, but in mine I know i'm holding fuel pressure.
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I suspect the same. Thanks for all of your help!
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These readings are in live data on the MT2500, with a fresh vehicle entry.
