coolwind57

That's what I'm thinking. With only a couple inches of lift (I have 31s), I'm searching for a decent setup, replacing both parts--bar and bracket. I'm kinda diggin CORE 4x4's track bar kits. Anyone with experience? Price looks good at $229, double sheer and they have a lifetime warrantee. I'm not an off-roader...only going off pavement on occasion to haul wood or stuff, so I don't think I need an expensive, fully-braced, kick-butt off road, rock crawling setup.

Ok, so I've been hearing a thud when I turned my wheels at a stop or slow speeds. Turns out that the track bar is loose--driver's end. Simple: tighten the castle nut, right? Well, the bolt turns with it. No way to get an impact in there so I took the whole assembly off to see what I could do. So, now that I have the whole assembly off the vehicle, what can I do? Is there a way to take the castle nut off while stabilizing the bolt? Perhaps there's a trick to this... My plan was to remove the castle nut and perhaps put on a lock washer or even a plain washer, as it appears that the castle nut alone had been digging into the frame assembly end. Not sure how the bolt secures in there or even if it does. Do I need a new track bar perhaps? If so, I'm guessing I'll need to cut the castle nut off? What's my course of action at this point?

I'd heard that the originals are pretty darn good as far as performance. It's just that they tend to crack--like new ones probably will especially if you don't install the flex pipe and ensure your hanger system is up to par. I would suggest welding in gussets, especially focusing on the last 2-3 primaries (if not using gussets between all). That's what I did when I repaired my original header to help prevent future cracks. The popular suggestion from your amigos here at Comanche club is to place it after the vertical down pipe, as close to where it becomes horizontal as possible. The following is what I posted on my build page. Might be some helpful suggestions for you: Now that I'm back up and running, I am concerned about my exhaust header cracking again. I had welded the cracks on my header when I had it out of the vehicle and even welded on a gusset between the last two primaries. Upon advice from the forum, I had a 6" flex pipe welded on my header pipe. Also, I wanted to address additional support (hangers) with the shop and I asked them to put an additional hanger at the bellhousing. I had to ask what the tab bolted onto my bell housing was a few weeks ago because it did not appear to attach to anything. Well, the guys welded on a clamp, giving the front of my exhaust system some additional support: Additionally, a shop guy said that I was probably suppose to have one at the transmission mount. I had no idea that there was suppose to be one there. A PO had deleted my CAT so perhaps that's why I didn't know that anything mounted there. Anyhow, he corrected it by installing this: So, I feel much better about hitting bumps and flexing my truck now. He charged me like $30 for parts and I think $80 labor, which I didn't feel was too bad. I have a flux-core welder and can get by with minor welding, but I was really ok with giving this job to a pro. I feel it paid off as I learned a thing or two from them today.

I'm diggin it. Keep going, bro. Long-time POR-15 user myself.

Friends with cores, please help this guy out. Return your cores as agreed upon. Man, this was one of my top mods I'd ever done to my truck. We want to keep this guy going in helping others in making MJ ownership fun. This kind of stuff also helps interest in MJ preservation. Can't thank you enough, MeanLemons. You helped make my MJ exciting and fun.

i wasn't even aware of a center mount till I took my truck in to add a flex joint up front. The exhaust shop pointed it out The rubber piece was still there, so they just welded a prong onto my pipe to go into it. As you can see, I have no cat. PO had removed it--which was fine by me. You're talking about the center mount that I have pictured, correct (pic taken from back side of crossover facing forward)? I highly recommend a flex pipe installed as close as possible to the header downpipe. My exhaust header was cracked in multiple places. I had to do crack repairs and I even welded gussets between the 5th & 6th header primaries--where most of the stress cracks seem to appear. The flex joint was insurance policy to prevent future header damage from vibration. I dealt with a rattling exhaust for over a year. It gets old, man. I've found that it sure makes MJ ownership more enjoyable when you finally address those stupid little annoyances.

I like the look of foglights. I found mine in a junkyard on an old XJ. Best $5 spent ever. They just look good on our MJs. Another thing you and I have in common, my friend: We both have hottie wives.

Here they are before install and before a thorough cleaning; The write up is on page four of my build thread: https://comancheclub.com/topic/54081-coolwind57s/ It took some work, but TOTALLY worth it.

Yes sir Pete. Done it. My backside now feels delicately coddled, as if enveloped in a warm soft intimate bosom. Highly recommend the Dakota split bench.

Totally agree with this. My life improved so very much when i got that bench seat out of there. Colors became more vibrant, sounds more crisp and clearer. My posture improved and my wife actually didn't mind riding in the truck with me. I get emotional now just talking about it. Seriously, if you went with a Comanche bench, you'd be stepping back a notch. I like benches and all, but the Comanche bench was poorly designed. I can't even believe it could be comfortable when it was brand new. I think in order to have a bench, you'd probably be better off designing a custom one yourself or pulling one from a different manufacturer and making it work in there somehow. Your current seats look like a blessing, man. But I understand a bench guys is a bench guy. My 2-cents.

Very nice indeed with some unique features. I'm happy for you. Everyone was saying to "check the floorboards" as you were contemplating the purchase. From what I know, it's like striking gold if you pulled your carpet and you DIDN"T see any rust. Just expect it and don't freak out too much. Most all repairs in this area are well worth the cool, unique vehicle you're now owning. If I ever make future Comanche purchases, I'd only probably pass on one that had near zero floor structure remaining. Like a Fred Flintstone mobile. My 89 carpet had padding underneath wrapped in bag-like clear plastic. They essentially held moisture in them once water breached them. It was like a super moisure-ladened environment under there for who knows how long till I pulled the carpet and removed and replaced the padding. Mine weighed more than my wife as I pulled the water logged padding out of the cab. Like pulling a dead, limp body out of your truck--not that I have experience with that....moving on. Your sliding glass window in the back doesn't help. I've grown paranoid of accidentally leaving mine open, even only a crack. Keep an close eye out on that sunroof too. I don't want to keep going on and on with this topic, but pulling the carpet and stopping the cancer that is likely going on under there would be one of my first priorities as a new owner. Have a plan to try your best at permanently fixing and preventing future episodes of this issue. I chose POR-15 and multiple coats of a bed liner material once my repairs were made. Followed by a better solution for carpet padding. Man, I totally dig your interior by the way. Good luck, Brother. We look forward to hearing more from you on this very nice purchase.

You're doing a fine job, Pete. Thanks for all you do.

Got mine installed last month. I upgraded the bulb with LEDs. Lights up the cab almost as bright as welder flash.

Very nice. Welcome to the addiction.

Good stuff, thank you. As a matter of fact, Big O recommended that I replace one side with an off-set upper ball joint if I wanted to get my off-camber dialed in perfectly. The technician said that my camber irregularity was so very minor but he did have to point it out. I was going to post their results here and I keep forgetting to bring the sheet to work to copy and paste it. Thankfully, my problem was easily fixed by them just adjusting toe. It was off significantly.

Just looked up your truck. PERFECT! Love it, man.

Nope, it's an actual decal (semi-transparent). But thanks. Nice to see open-mindedness and a healthy regard for humor. And yes....its temporary until I get tired of it. If I recall correctly, I think I had to exacto-knife the retangular tab to install the switch. There was no existing hole. Plenty of room for wiring behind the panel.

Oh come on....you guys are like a bunch of stuffy, grumpy old men. Live a little! You probably don't even see humor in my "Sasquatch" light switch: I think they're both funny and lots of people get a kick out of them. I have fun with my daily driver Comanche. I'm obviously not a Jeep Comanche purist, and I respect and admire even those who trailer queen. Variety is the spice of life, man. Thought not a chrome kind of guy either, I always dug Hornbrod's fascination with it (God rest his soul).

I'm not sure, but judging by the look in his eyes--he's not particularly happy.

i got the bored Renix TB from Mean Lemons too. One of my all-time favorite mods. Made a big difference on up-hill power!

S/Fi. 1986-2006. USAF, USMC & I worked for the Army for a few years. Very-unusual and crazy 20-year military career.

I'm not really hearing excessive noise sounding like bearings, but I also have MT tires.... Looks like hub assemblies are pretty inexpensive, $39.78/ea (Mevotech brand) on amazon. Detroit Axle sells a pair for $79.95, but no PRIME shipping. New hub assemblies sounds much easier for me to replace than ball joints. Big O is putting her on their rack and I'll hear their opinion by a couple of hours. I thank you for your thoughts, fellas.

i bought them new and used them on my 4.0 for nearly a year. I've not done anything to them besided remove them, put them in a ziplock and place them on a shelf.

Just noticed this just a few minutes ago (see pics). Looks like I'm getting some pretty significant inner wear on both front tires. My understanding on MJs: 1. Negative camber caused by one of two things-- bent axle or bad ball joints. 2. Camber is non-adjustable (stock) I've not crawled under and checked anything yet, although Big O did do a front-end alignment about a year ago. They have a 1-year warranty, so if I'm still under a year, I may just swing by and have them rack it and evaluate. I'm on hold with them now. I'm leaning towards ball joints. I'd really be surprised if my axle is bent...heck I barely go off paved and graveled roads since I've owned it. I have less than 120k original miles and I have a couple of inches of lift and MT tires. Upgraded my UCAs and LCAs with new ones designed for XJs. Just thought I'd throw this out to the forum for those who'd like to share any experiences with this or would like to share advice/correct inaccuracies I have stated here. Passenger tire: Driver's tire: And both: