coolwind57

Personally, I think I'd go ahead and go with the open system at this point. I'm really happy I did mine that way. Takes some confusion out of your cooling system and easier to work on in my opinion I'm using the original closed system-type radiator but I installed an aluminum radiator cap "T" on the upper rad hose. Picked up a true overflow bottle from a later model XJ at a junk yard. Also got rid of that worthless heater core valve too. One of my favorite upgrades. No more guessing on whether or not bubbles are fully purged and that all is working like it should.

MeanLemons, I'm glad I made the purchase. My 89 Renix 4.0L does run significantly stronger now with your bored TB. I can tell a difference especially when I go up a long, big hill on the expressway route home each day. I'd hauled four full loads of rock recently too and it feels like it isn't struggling so much. Renix guys should not fear what you're offering here.

I was crazy enough to go and drive 3-1/2 hours just to look at mine first. I had no real money on me, but it was too hard to resist not spending the day on the road: 4x4, very minimal rust, just under 100K original miles, Automatic, 4.0L, working AC, body in great shape. Once I climbed all over it and inspected it well, the seller was nice enough to hold it for a hundred bucks until I could trek back the following week with the remaining funds and drive it home. I certainly consider myself lucky and I was surprised he agreed. He was a retired Navy Captain, and him and I hit it off pretty well. I had never drove 3-1/2 hours to just look at a vehicle before, but this one stood out as being exactly what I was looking for.

I second HOrnbrod. Relocate that sucker while you have it dislodged from your bumper. You'll be eliminating a few feet of damage/failure-prone tubing. I put mine same place as his.

Oh thank goodness you're joking. And thank goodness that DeoxIT is cheaper than my next hit of Meth that I now know i do not have to waste on my CPS connector.

Keeping an eye on this thread. Cruiser54, what do you mean exactly by "tweak"?

Latest upgrade: Bored throttle body (TB) from Meanlemons. He took my 52mm stock Renix TB and opened her up to 60mm. As of this writing, I just got her installed and took for a quick 3-4 mile test run before bed and she purred like a kitten. I need to check my auto kick-down adjustment in the morning. I'm anxious to see what kind of difference I may notice. I"m not so much a mudder or performance nut, but I would like to have more balls going up the big I-64 hill on my way home from work every day. Check out the visual difference. Impressive!

Congrats, Brother.

Shopping for oil last night, I did see a diesel oil that actually mentions that it is not designed for gasoline engines with catalytic converters. I think it was the Motorcraft brand.

Looks like a thermostat housing leak to me. I noticed the same thing on my MJ a couple of weeks ago. Directly above this stain is your thermostat housing. I got a bit lucky and tightened my bolts and corrected the slight leak, no sweat. If that doesn't work for you, remove housing (might as well put in a new thermostat), replace gasket and reinstall. Yep, weep hole is NOT on top of the water pump. BTW, life is much easier for me now that I have converted to an open cooling system on my 89. The pressure bottles on the old closed systems are problematic with age. Caps become issues, the plastic bottle itself becomes weak and leak prone. What I didn't like mostly, however is that my brain struggled with troubleshooting the closed system. I can more easily and confidently purge air and figure out issues now that I went to an open system. One of my favorite modfications since ownership. You might look into this.

I have a small key-lockable safe that holds my full-size FN. I don't yet have it attached, as I have yet to make up my mind where to put it. I was looking to find a fairly easy to access location. I'm also a bit limited inside the cab under the seat with my custom-fab'd bucket Dakota seats. Before I go into a government building or other place that does not allow it, I usually lock it in my safe and lock the safe inside my bed toolbox. I did install a dash-mounted rubber coated magnet that I thought I'd use more often: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B8XWRBZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These things are pretty cool. It works fine, but I find myself keeping my weapon holstered nearly all the time. I have a Clinger holster and it surpasses my expectations for concealability and especially comfort so I don't really un-holster getting into vehicles. Highly recommend Clinger for concealed carry of especially full-sized handguns, by the way. Let me know what you come up with.

I'd like to look it up and try to find one myself. "So topper bed cover"?? Is this a SOFTOPPER?

Perhaps I should rephrase to better stimulate a response: Are you guys getting any significant benefits from this? What can one expect? I wouldn't mind furthering my interest in buying one if the benefits/cost ratio works well.

I'm curious of results from Renix guys. How do you guys feel after going to 60mm?

But what you're saying makes sense, hakukamana. Perhaps they put these type of cables on all Jeeps with only some having cruise control. By the way, you getting some major rain yet? I hear you island guys are fixin' to get hit pretty hard. I have a buddy on Molokai.

No, I have no cruise control. Never did as far as I know. Certainly no provision for it on the turn signal stem.

Working around my master cylinder, I heard a snap. Check out the pic. This plastic pieces I'm pointing to appears that it should be a single piece with spring inside giving tension. in other words, I don't think we should easily be seeing that spring. I've been driving with so far zero effect. Accelerator pedal seems fine like nothing happened. The cable seems secure when I work it back and forth. What exactly does this device on my accelerator cable do?

I STILL have occasional issues with sticking front brakes. Aggravating. I put all new parts on last year. I wonder now if I got supplied some wrong parts. At Autozone's website, I compared 1989 MJ caliper and pad parts numbers to 1987 and 1990. 1987 & 1989 have same part numbers. 1990 does not. I'm really wondering if a store clerk maybe gave me a 1990+ part which is causing my sticking issues. Not knowing which part numbers I used last year (I bought the calipers from Bumper-to-bumper and my pads from Advance Auto), I may need to drop $90+ to start over. I'm sure my sticking pads are probably pretty close to needing replacement anyhow. BTW, both different caliper parts state "Bleeder screw must be installed towards top".

I was asked the orientation of my calipers for my 89. Front orientation or rear (this is the position of the caliper in relation with the hub. Sorry I'm not answering your question, but I remember this question last year when I redid my front brakes. I'm interested in seeing more responses to your thread.

I struggled with sticking brake pads and recently learned about and addressed the divots. I may try some molybdenum in this area in hopes of assisting the floating of the pad and maybe even preventing the divot from forming in the first place. It's a thought. Sticking pads are annoying as heck. I believe I was even getting death-wobble-like symptoms due to this.

Same thought process here, bro.

Check out the pics. Looks like I found my "slow coolant leak". i had recently overheated on the highway and replaced my thermostat and water pump, as it was weeping. After a "field install" of my pump and thermostat, I experienced this catastrophic radiator failure two hours later. It was a full-out explosion, even pushing the corner or my grill out of the nose of the truck. After reading spotty reviews on the all-aluminum eBay radiators, I decided to go with the Spectra OE-type (Amazon, $84.98). I didn't want to fight fitment issues and I was happy to find that the Spectra practically jumped right in, with tranny coolant lines and sensor lining up and fitting in just right---the way it's suppose to be. I also found that I was running a 16-lbs pressure cap and according to the parts computer at Autozone, I was suppose to have a 13-lbs on (for a 1991 model---keep in mind that mine's an 89 with a closed-to-open conversion system featuring a top radiator hose water filler/cap). Got that corrected. Looks like Spectra made a change to their design to allow for more expansion.

It didn't have to on mine. Like i said, I pushed that rubber trim in the space between the glass and the truck AFTER i placed the glass. It does not have to completely wrap around the glass like a seal. The nose of the seal that gets pushed within is shaped a little like an arrowhead. I just pushed it by hand after the window had been set. I'm sorry you're having issues with yours. You must have something different going on there that I can't see in your pics. Any how, I wish you good luck on nailing a solution..

Me too...but after the window is installed. Again, you may have something different going on there than I do. Let's take a look at what you got.

I'm not sure why you can't see putting on the rubber trim afterwards. Starting from scratch: Install the sticky ribbon along the INSIDE open EDGE of your truck's window opening. After visually sizing how your glass will fit in there centered and evenly all around the opening, carefully push the glass onto the sticky ribbon (use some Monster tape to help hold into place. Because of the size of your glass and the size of your recessed opening is different, you'll be leaving an open channel going all the way around the perimeter between the edge of your glass and the metal recess area of your truck. That channel is were you'll push your decorative rubber trim back later. Screw that rubber trim during your install! It's not part of the install process. Some people don't even re-use it and shoot black silicone in there or use other forms of trim. It's mostly decorative, really. My trim was still in pretty good shape, so I set it outside in the sunlight to soften while I installed my glass. Install it later when you're done setting your glass in place. If this still is not making sense, then perhaps you have something different going on there. Take a pic or two in that case and we can probably help you figure a different option that'll work for you.