Dammerung

The car was originally brown. I think the white may be some sort of primer or something, I’m not entirely sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like the rain took care of washing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So you’re telling me this is NOT the kick down cable? I’m just trying to adapt what I’ve found out on newer Cherokees. This was the most similar thing to the kick down cable they were talking about. You’re supposed to press that button, push the yellow thing all the way in, push the throttle pedal inside the truck, and it should self adjust. At least from what others have said. If there’s a different or better way of doing it, please inform me. Also, “RPMs sticking” was the best way for me to describe the symptom. I don’t know a whole lot about cars and trucks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tried that and it just locks in after I push the button. Even if I push the throttle down in the truck, it won’t move. I manually pulled it out to see if there was any change and it still acted the same. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a 88 4.0 with the AW4. Whenever I’m driving and hit 45 mph, the transmission shifts into overdrive and RPMs drop to 1500. However if I push on the gas pedal after, I don’t really get any response. It will slightly increase RPMs. The only way it will pick up the throttle is if I fully floor it and it will “unstick” and it will hit 2000-3000 depending on how long I hold it. I haven’t had this problem until after I cleaned the c101 connector on the firewall. It doesn’t really affect me, but I don’t really want to have to floor it to try and get a quick acceleration past 45 mph. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My idle also bounces between 1000 and 650. Is this normal? Or can it be explained by the idle air controller? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On startup, my truck will hit 1500 and come down quickly or will reach higher numbers and stay up in the 2000-3000 rpm range for 30 seconds. Is there a way to fix this? I don’t want to be any harder on my engine then I have to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Will a Chrysler 8.25 have a longer pinion length? I heard that the Dana 44 has an inch longer pinion. If so, do I need to cut the driveshaft or could I lift the truck? And if I had the chance, should I use the 8.25 or the Dana 44? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like she’s going to the junker Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All except 1 did. We pulled the spare home with us to check it and we’ll probably put it on when we go back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We pulled my truck up to it and jumped it. It cranked but didn’t start. We poured fuel in the tank and some in the Carb and it ran. Been sitting for 25 years and she ran like a dream, and subsequently died lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Reviving this because I believe my 35 is not long for this world. It’s started to howl at 45+ mph. So I want to put out a “subtopic”: what’s the CHEAPEST rear to put in? I want to get a rear end ready just in case. I’ve thought about the Chrysler 8.25, but what years are good? I also want to find a limited slip if possible with the 8.25. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally pulled it. Used the Jeep of course - gotta earn its keep Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Another one we found yesterday Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk