PhilisDiller

There were a few on eBay for $91 so I grabbed 2. I have a feeling I’ll be owning an 2 door renix XJ in the future. 😈 there’s 2 more on eBay but they are $121. Ouch

Good stuff! I think you're right. I did a test today and can tell you with certainty that idling does not "teach" the ECU. The LT stayed at 126 after 30 minutes of idling with an ST around 30. I took her for a 25 minute drive on the freeway and before I even got halfway, my LT was at 105. While cruising, my ST is almost perfect! Pretty much floats at 100-110 the whole time. The ONLY time my ST doesn't look great is at idle. Everywhere else is just beautiful. I haven't done any long term mpg testing yet, but looking at my speed and GPH, I was getting around 22mpg on flat highway and

Thanks for all the info there. It looks like manual is a simpler ecm relearn process. I still need to take it for a long drive, but it looks like I've developed some sort of parasitic draw on my battery because it's been dead when i go to start it the last two times. Never had this issue before the last week. I'm thinking that my ECM was reset when i had to jump her to get her started because my LT was back at 128. It was down at 120 last week, but like I said I don't drive her much. I'll spend some time pulling fuses to find where the power draw is coming from. I'll make an effort to take her

Alright I closed off my EGR and I also managed to snag a Mopar 4713639 oxygen sensor. I can’t really tell a difference in performance after doing the EGR. I also replaced the new vacuum connector line that was on my FPR because it was split. the oxygen sensor swings a lot faster and is more responsive. Before putting in the Mopar sensor it would struggle to keep closed loop when I let off the throttle because the ST would go to 0 before the O2 sensor is able to respond in time. Watching it, I could see it was slow to respond. The new Mopar sensor is a much better and alm

You're a good man

Thanks a million for listing the NOS O2 part number in your build thread. I used the parts catalog to get the O2 number - 53004245, but can only find crappy Crown ones. I hadn't seen the part number 4713639 used anywhere. Even searching Comanche club for "4713639" your build thread is the ONLY post that has that number. I got SUPER lucky and found some on ebay. I picked up two so I don't have to worry in the future when it's even more difficult to find. They'll be here next week! There's one more available on ebay. I paid an arm and a leg at $92 each though

Hehe, I’m on the hunt now! I’m thinking of swapping my old o2 sensor in to see if it was never bad in the first place. Damn these rare renix era jeeps. Every parts car in my area is 90+ and all junkyards within 3 hours haven’t had a renix Jeep come through in the last 4 months.

@JMO413 Do you remember what band Oxygen Sensor you are running? Ahhh reading through your build thread I see you have a NOS O2 sensor. Lucky bastard!

Wow great video. what injectors are you running? here's the things I noticed right off the bat. - your O2 sensor is muuch faster mine and tighter range than mine. - your gph usage is lower than mine, even though my pulse width is shorter than yours. I’m assuming that’s because my rpm is higher 1000 vs 800 - your duty cycle is lower than mine even though the pulse width is higher. you - 6ms 3.1% duty cycle Me - 5.1ms 4.2% duty cycle. Jeeze, as soon as I type this out I realize it’s also due to my higher RPMs. here's a video after shes been war

For some context, my jeep seems to be running a bit rich still. I've gone through and done all of Cruiser54s tips 1-6, except the Coil/ICM fix. I have no issues with starting her and she ALWAYS starts after 1 sec of cranking, not 4-6 seconds like I've seen reported from other Renix owners. Here's everything that I've done since I got her. Eliminate C101 connection - verified ground sensor resistance below 0.5 Ohm for all sensors New FPR - verified fuel pressure at rail 31/39PSI Rebuilt 746 injectors New exhaust to fix bad exhaust leak New O2 sensor(NTK

I have it set to ludicrous. I was able to find a video of a jeep that was "running rough" and his O2 was swinging about 5x faster than mine at least

Hey all, The MJ I picked up was the first Jeep i've ever driven (besides renting a new wrangler) and I don't have a good point of reference for what a health Renix 4.0 should drive like. I'm hoping to actually go test drive one in my area, however they are far and few between and the closest ones for sale are about 1.5 hours away. Too busy for that right now. I'm hoping someone with a healthy running Renix 4.0 that owns the REM unit can show me a video of what outputs they are getting at idle. Readings I'm extremely interested in O2 output reading and

What do you mean by this? Are you saying there is no benefit to the egr?

Well I ordered the blocking plate. Just want peace of mind right now haha. Should be here next week and will keep you all posted. God I’m crossing my fingers so hard that this helps correct my vacuum

This block off plate looks like it should work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMC-6-CYL-V8-EGR-VALVE-STAINLESS-STEEL-BLOCK-OFF-PLATE-With-GASKET-MADE-IN-USA-/283740262656?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 i was hoping I could slip the plate in between the EGR and the intake to have it retain the OEM look, but don’t see how I can do that with the way there’s the nipple on the EGR that sits inside the intake. $15 and peace of mind it won’t leak again vs $60 knowing it’s operating as it was intended to from the factory. I also would like to keep pollutants low... ah the great debate.