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Get the ACC carpet kit without mass backing. As for color, ACC can get you a color swatch to compare. I ended up preferring the darker gray for interior on my last MJ. The XJ oe carpet will fit poorly as the XJ doesn’t have the side braces for the rocker panels nor the floor bracing for the frame

Same, use a good chemical to loosen up the grease so you’re not relying so much on the water pressure to remove it. That way you can “rinse” the engine bay. Just try to stay away from seals and wiring along with firewall ports

I’d suggest doing all of Cruisers wiring mods. Most of the copper wiring itself should still be usable but I’d unwrap the harness, replace those duct taped factory splices, clean up all the connectors and terminals, then rewrap it all with tesa harness tape.

Agreed, you can keep the nostalgic look, feel and even performance, but add an aux or Bluetooth input and not just a cassette adapter as that relies on the cassette player working properly. No reason to limit your selection to only radio or tape.

Dynamat FTW. The recipe looks simple and easy to duplicate but few get it right. I’ve use Noico, killmat, dynamat and sound skins. Sound skins is top notch, dynamat is as well. Noico and killmat don’t dampen as well. And removing them is absolutely horrific. They will outgas as well when heated up. For something as labor intensive as sound dampening, I’d definitely suggest the “cry once” approach.

Add dynapad on top of the dynamat if you want it quieter

New carpet is never fun and takes a lot of time to get right. The ACC carpet without mass backing is the way to go.

Not sure how common they are but they are good swap candidates. 3” .25 wall axle tubes, factory disks, 29 spline shafts and side adjusters for the ring gear. The wheel bolt pattern and width are excellent for a Comanche.

First consider the size. There really isn’t room for a double din full depth radio. Even with 3D printing, the underlying dash and defroster duct would need to be heavily modified. It’s not impossible, but it’s a ton of work. If you’re keeping single DIN, a clean stock unit fits the bill. Though I would add an aux input so you can keep your options open. Retro is nostalgic but functionality is key. You don’t want to have to convert your favorite tunes to cassette to be able to listen to them. When you spend 10 minutes fast forwarding and rewinding to find your son on a 15minute drive, it gets old…

Are you referring to the single digital dash setups? I prefer analog gauges, the HDX is analog gauges with digital displays that are expandable to read a great variety of things. My stock gauges are just dying on me one by one.

I've been disappointed with the OE gauge cluster for some time. Seen a few options out there including digital dashes but nothing really looked too clean imo. So I found I nice condition gauge cluster and sent it off to Dakota Digital for a custom HDX series build. The build takes about 4 months but looking forward to a clean, updated, and most importantly, accurate set of gauges.

I did it, and wouldn't hesitate to do it again. Best brakes I ever had. I did need to upgrade my pump and add a cooler to the system but the breaking was phenomenal. I went with Talon Hydraulics but this was several years ago. Hydratech also makes a model that works well. The Vanco units are some type of OE applications and not quite as nice as the Hydratech units. Get some nice AN lines and they look like a work of art under the hood. Much better looking and performance than vacuum boosters. I liked running them with just a slightly oversized Wilwood MC for the application to bring the pedal travel up a bit.

Congratulations!!

I’d keep things renix. The HO doesn’t have much in the way of support for stroker builds. The OBD1 ecu which is and SBEC2 unit, can be chipped and programmed but only by a select few people. The renix system with its knock sensor has proven itself in basic mild strokers. If your after tuning performance and flexibility, aftermarket efi is you’re best bet though later model obd2 systems have a bit more tune ability and can use HP Tuners. Still not the same as a true stand alone efi system though. Strokers and custom efi for the 4.0 get you in the realm of engine swap territory As for the AX15 tranny, on internal slave models (pre 94), they had a 5/8 pilot tip. 94+ are 3/4 pilot tip. No appreciable difference strength wise but you may need to swap pilot bushings as mentioned. You can trim up using the DPG method with decent results and probably clear 33’s. The trick is to be able to fully stuff them and keep your turning radius.

Awesome! Thanks for making these. Will definitely be grabbing a set

Here is a 1.25” front andapter along with a KJ liberty rear axle which is 2.5” wider in the rear plus a 3/4 wheel adapter. So basically rear is 2” further out in each side and front is 1.25. I have zero issues with this setup and a great turning radius.

I suspect AMC wanted to reuse the same pile of Dana 35’s they already had in stock for other vehicles vs spec’ing the correct size for our trucks.

Thought I’d check in for a progress report. I’m pleased to say I am getting a ton of use out of the truck and have a few thousand trouble free miles on this build. Few small items that need to be addressed: 1. My speedometer and gas gauge both quit (I fill the tank very frequently now to be on the safe side lol) 2. I have some small paint peel near the third brake light to address. I do plan on doing a full repaint of the exterior at some point to eliminate any final imperfections. 3. I have a tiny bit of death wobble but only in specific circumstances. The bottom drivers side corner of my windshield came loose on me a couple of months ago. Started noticing some water on the floor mat after a heavy rain. Fortunately have a budy here who owns an auto glass shop and they reset the whole glass and made it perfect. Other than those items, I have great steering, brakes, AC, audio, and overall a smooth daily driver. The engine is perfectly matched for this truck. I do really like this swap.

I was looking at those then they came out. They seem like a nice option. How is the frequency response on them?

This is a good trick that speeds up the process and gives great results.

For question 3: you may be able to use the master shims that you picked up from the ZJ but you’re typically better off just running a custom shim stack to set your backlash. Run the shims outside of the carrier bearings. Make sure to get some preload in the shim stack once you get to zero lash. As for the other items, note the order of assembly as you remove the components from your axle. There were a few variation in assembly and realistically, there are a few variations that work when it comes to getting your gearset aligned properly. Your powertrax LSD should also have some assembly instructions to follow for the carrier. If not, use the Truetrac D35 manual. As for axle seals and bearings, with bolt in axles, they are easier to service down the road than a c clip axle Home Depot is a good resource for brake part cleaner, shop rags ect.

So you’re looking for horror stories? Why not ask about those who have had no issues with their axles as well? If all you’re looking for is problem stories, you’ll be worried

The 7 blade is the mechanical fan. They are an eBay find. Don’t recall exactly what they came in but I have sourced them from a couple of ZJs at the junk yard. I think they came as standard on a lot of Jeeps. The heavy duty fan clutch is also a ZJ part number. You can buy those from Hayden at your local Napa. I don’t have the part number but I’m sure some of the mementos here will chime in with it. The later model XJ e fan is a 10 blade units with curved blades. Is has excellent flow for its size. The oem Mopar or a used one are good bets. Then just ensure there’s adequate power supply.

All the above is solid advice. E fans are no replacement for the mech fan but *can* work if you upgrade coolant capacity enough to offset the diminished airflow. Options are limited in an MJ/XJ though. A solid stock system with the later model XJ e fan along with solid alternator voltage-13.8v minimum-and the 7 blade fan with HD clutch is a solid system. If you’re overwhelming the cooling system and overheating in a stock rig, sometimes a lean run condition is to blame.

I’m running these. Took me about 3 months to get them in but they just arrived a few weeks ago. Purchased mine through Summit