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Lots of factors at play in that decision. Driving style, wheeling areas, tire size you want to run. Generally speaking, If you’re going 37’s -39’s, probably a high pinion Dana 44 like JK style axles. 40’s or larger may call for a D60

I’m wondering about the design/quality of the timken unit. It’s much higher in price than the others even on rock auto. Also curious why it’s not showing up for a 1990 but it does show up for a 91??

This may sound basic, but have you opened the radiator cap and checked your coolant level recently? Is your radiator getting hot on both sides?

What water pump did you install? Iirc, there is a reverse rotation and standard rotation for the 4.0. Both fit but installing the wrong one can cause flow issues

I’ve heard of that but hadn’t seen any of his work. Seen a lot of air bag work from Texas metal though. Will have to lookup what he’s done. Ultimately, I’d love to have some links installed along with airbags in the correct location to act as a complete suspension system, but I think that may be something I plan a ways down the road.

Will do! If they don’t have a kit I’ll go with an airbag setup. I may fabricate an upper bracket to replace the bump stop as I really don’t like the J bracket that the airlift kit uses. Been looking at ridetech systems. I also just don’t want to loose the flex and on handling of the current system by slapping on some thick rigid springs.

Engineering is real I may still go air suspension but like the idea of what this company came up with. GS spring design is just not what I’d want to run again.

It certainly has a lot of good reviews. The principle seems sound but I’m curious how it works in the long term.

So I've been looking for something to help level the load when hauling without an add a leaf or new springs. I really like current ride quality with my bastardized 5 leaf pack but I don't have enough spring rate for hauling or towing. Ive been looking at doing an air helper spring and still like the idea but I do notice that it can severely limit travel as most bags only have about 6" of total travel. Then I came accross these guys: https://activesuspension.com I reached out and they said they didn't have anything that fits a Comanche but they agreed to let me send them all the specs of what I'm working with and see if they had a kit that might work from another application. Still not 100% sure if they have something that may work but I should know soon. My spring brackets are quite a bit different from the stock layout. Anyways, any thoughts on this system design from RAS?

99-2004 were the main years for the WJ

I was surprised to see different slave cylinders available starting in 91 on rock auto. Figured they would all have been the same for the ax15 up until they went external in 94. 91 is the first year the Timken version shows up. Realistically though, I’ve had the throw out bearing go bad as well in an external slave ax15. Same pain to swap it as well. I like the idea of eliminating the linkage and having that direct clutch engagement from an internal slave provided it was reliable. That eliminates a lot of small parts and linkage. It’s notable too that most performance manual transmission vehicles today use internal slaves. Seems the tech was sound, provided it was properly manufactured.

Most of those items will let you run 35’s but that will still be upper limits for the Dana 30. The ring and pinion are just too small to take much more. But you should have a very capable rig as is

The 89- D35 used a Dana 44 backing plate and 10" drums. It wouldn't be impossible to fit the TJ style drum backer, but I can't see it being much of an upgrade. As for compatibility though, if you post up in the repairs and mods section, you'll likely get far more viewers. PS. thanks for that thread link! The one question I haven seen a straight answer on is whether or not you could run the 5x5 pattern on a wj knuckle swap. This would use the 27 spline D30 outers. I'm assuming a spacer may still be in order.

What are you currently running for steering and brakes? 35’s are about the upper limit for what the Dana 30 can handle even in upgraded form. 8.25 is getting up there also at 35’s but probably could run 37’s if needed. Steering, brakes and suspension geometry would be my primary concern. If you lifted 5-6” and fender trimmed to accommodate 37’s, that is a viable option, but one that still calls for extensive brake, steering and front axle upgrades.

Looks like Timken has one. The hydraulic system includes the master cylinder, slave cylinder (with integrated throw out bearing) and all associated hose and fittings. I’d start by looking for leaks and possibly bleeding it for any trapped air first. That may fix the problem

The AA is a good kit. Grab the best throwout bearing you can find though. Or, just stick with a quality internal slave setup and run Redline, 10w30 synthetic motor oil or whatever else works with the brass synchros. Luk Rep-Set has been a pretty good clutch option. Going over 8 lift on 35's will help you refocus to other problems aside from the tranny

If you're on level ground, it may have been overfilled. I have filled mine using the shift tower on occasion but I leave the fill plug open to set the correct level. If the fill plug is left in I could see how it could get overfilled easily. I wouldn't be greatly concerned about that though or the presence of some brass dusting.

As for values, Hagerty has a good tool to price Comanche’s that’s based off of comparable sales. If you’re looking for the 97+ header panel swap, the new aftermarket panels are mostly junk. Get a good used grill on eBay or a junk yard if available.

I tried the 95-96 booster but iirc it had slightly smaller diaphragms than the later model XJ and provided a bit less boost. I’m running the 97+ master cylinder as well since I wanted a 1” bore. I now need a 1-1/8 more as I don’t have enough fluid movement for these big brakes but the 1” works perfectly on stock brakes with the correct booster. The WJ also runs a 1” MC. The XJ setup clears the hoodline nicely though where the WJ booster needs to be flipped.

I’d second checking the clutch first as well. As for tranny fluid, I run 10w30 motor oil as suggested by the old mopar tsb.

This is about 300lbs of tongue weight. With this load I have about 1.5” of travel left in the suspension. Definitely needs an upgrade to the rear springs. On another note, I’d love to add a second axle to this trailer as I’d like to eventually run a gear/storage box near the front of the trailer frame just before the tongue which will only add more tongue weight

How are you attaching the pushrod to the brake pedal? I cutoff the old MJ booster pushrod and welded it to the 01 XJ booster I’m running and the pedal height remained the same.

Time for some updates: new PSC box is in and it works perfectly. Old box was 100% to blame for the horrendous steering I was experiencing. Need to finish aligning the steering wheel, but that should be a quick fix. I’m thinking I may need to grab some general spring rear springs as my spring rate is just a bit too soft for my use. I frequently trailer or haul heavy loads and could really use a higher spring rate. My current leaf springs are a rebuilt oem pack with a BDS add a leaf. They flex excelenty and are about a 1” lift over stock. From experience, I know the general springs will provide a mild lift over stock even in their 4 leaf configuration. I’m thinking they should keep a nice ride height if I swap them for the current pack. I would be negligent to not mention what an awesome steering box the PSC big bore unit is. They provide taps and caps for running hydro assist if I ever go that route. Truly a quality product. I’ve given up on ever finding a decent rebuilt box. Redhead should have been a quality unit but unfortunately it failed the test. Best thing redhead could do now is accept a return but I doubt they will Some pics of the Tomahawk getting some much needed attention.

I’d suggest you first find the source of the problem. Once you fire the parts canon, you’re never sure what exactly solved your issue. But I would also second the above, get on rock auto and source some quality parts. Stick with Dana/Spicer, SKF, Timken and Moog. Also look into the ZJ tie rod swap.

You can check the hot side of the radiator (coolant return side). That will be pretty much the hottest coolant temp reading you can get. Make sure all of your hose clamps are tight with zero leaks. A small leak can cause an overheat as the system can’t pressurize to raise the boiling temp. Is your water pump a stock replacement? Have you changed the radiator cap? Are you using the oe fan shroud? Do you have an auxiliary e fan?