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I suspect AMC wanted to reuse the same pile of Dana 35’s they already had in stock for other vehicles vs spec’ing the correct size for our trucks.

Thought I’d check in for a progress report. I’m pleased to say I am getting a ton of use out of the truck and have a few thousand trouble free miles on this build. Few small items that need to be addressed: 1. My speedometer and gas gauge both quit (I fill the tank very frequently now to be on the safe side lol) 2. I have some small paint peel near the third brake light to address. I do plan on doing a full repaint of the exterior at some point to eliminate any final imperfections. 3. I have a tiny bit of death wobble but only in specific circumstances. The bottom drivers side corner of my windshield came loose on me a couple of months ago. Started noticing some water on the floor mat after a heavy rain. Fortunately have a budy here who owns an auto glass shop and they reset the whole glass and made it perfect. Other than those items, I have great steering, brakes, AC, audio, and overall a smooth daily driver. The engine is perfectly matched for this truck. I do really like this swap.

I was looking at those then they came out. They seem like a nice option. How is the frequency response on them?

This is a good trick that speeds up the process and gives great results.

For question 3: you may be able to use the master shims that you picked up from the ZJ but you’re typically better off just running a custom shim stack to set your backlash. Run the shims outside of the carrier bearings. Make sure to get some preload in the shim stack once you get to zero lash. As for the other items, note the order of assembly as you remove the components from your axle. There were a few variation in assembly and realistically, there are a few variations that work when it comes to getting your gearset aligned properly. Your powertrax LSD should also have some assembly instructions to follow for the carrier. If not, use the Truetrac D35 manual. As for axle seals and bearings, with bolt in axles, they are easier to service down the road than a c clip axle Home Depot is a good resource for brake part cleaner, shop rags ect.

So you’re looking for horror stories? Why not ask about those who have had no issues with their axles as well? If all you’re looking for is problem stories, you’ll be worried

The 7 blade is the mechanical fan. They are an eBay find. Don’t recall exactly what they came in but I have sourced them from a couple of ZJs at the junk yard. I think they came as standard on a lot of Jeeps. The heavy duty fan clutch is also a ZJ part number. You can buy those from Hayden at your local Napa. I don’t have the part number but I’m sure some of the mementos here will chime in with it. The later model XJ e fan is a 10 blade units with curved blades. Is has excellent flow for its size. The oem Mopar or a used one are good bets. Then just ensure there’s adequate power supply.

All the above is solid advice. E fans are no replacement for the mech fan but *can* work if you upgrade coolant capacity enough to offset the diminished airflow. Options are limited in an MJ/XJ though. A solid stock system with the later model XJ e fan along with solid alternator voltage-13.8v minimum-and the 7 blade fan with HD clutch is a solid system. If you’re overwhelming the cooling system and overheating in a stock rig, sometimes a lean run condition is to blame.

I’m running these. Took me about 3 months to get them in but they just arrived a few weeks ago. Purchased mine through Summit

I’ll see if I can find the Bluetooth module that I picked up. Jeremy had it patched in and working. The issue we had is the output of the Bluetooth is a bit too hot for the jeep radio preamp board. I’m sure some added resistance to lower down the output voltage of the module or perhaps the input voltage from the fm receiver would take care of that. It’s the ideal scenario though once thats been taken care of. As for the radio project, well, it’s coming up on 3 years. Hoping some day to finish this up Edit: found it https://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1114

I sent my Rx171 to @Minuit Back a few years ago for this very purpose. Unfortunately, my radio or Bluetooth adapter haven’t been returned, but the results were promising. I sourced a really nice Bluetooth 5.0 module that intercepted the FM radio side. Essentially the Bluetooth itself had the aux input that we tied the fm radio to. The output went to the radio’s preamp. This eliminated the radio bleed through issue that the aux input introduced. The Bluetooth was the priority signal. The Bluetooth module itself could also be programmed to adjust a wide variety of parameters. Really cool stuff, but I guess we’ll never know if it works

If you are turning on a hard, dry surface, it will hop and buck like crazy. Good way to break u joints. If you’re going to drive in part time 4wd on hard surface, try not to turn

The ideal recipe I found for my 4.0 MJ was a mishimoto (or cold case) radiator, heavy duty Hayden fan clutch from a ZJ, a good 7 blade mech fan, and the late model XJ 10 blade e fan (but get it on a 40a relay with good solid wiring) and make sure to run the mechanical shroud. Good good, quality stock flow water pump (I dumped my flow kooler for an AC delco gold pump). And some quality stainless hose clamps that don’t bite into the hoses. If you want to go all out, get the Novak radiator for an AMC engine. Thickest core and highest capacity currently available afaik, though it will require some slight mods. But I’d recommend not running triple e fans on a stock electrical system. There isn’t enough amperage available to maintain charging voltage, and those e fans need to run at charging voltage (~13.8-14v) to flow enough cfm to cool.

Are you getting fused power in the pdc?

Are those some sort of remote adjusters or a reservoir?

Rotella is some good stuff. JASO rated as well. I’d stick with it. Don’t see any down side to running the synthetic as it still has zddp.

The track bar bracket shouldn’t shift. Try to rock the steering back and forth with power steering on concrete. It also helps to place fingers across both the fixed and possible mobile joints. For instance, for tie rod ends, fingers across the body and joint while using the method above may reveal some movement that is not always obvious to the eyes.

And as for the whole “what if I had manual steering scenario”, a manual steering box would have a different gear reduction which would provide the same amount of steering force whether the truck is running for not though the helper may need a bit more muscle to yield similar effects when the truck isn’t moving. You’re looking for the slightest play in components. While driving, the forces exerted on the steering and suspension components are much stronger, so you’re trying to emulate that as best you can while parked. With power steering and engine running, rocking the steering wheel back and forth in short order or turning it lock to lock may reveal the issue. In my scenario, I noticed the frame side track bar bracket moving slightly “independently” of the frame. It wasn’t huge but that’s where the problem was and no amount of torquing bolts would stop it as the bracket itself is what failed as it is multiple sheets of metal folded and spot welded together in typical AMC/Mopar fashion. In my TJR it was a tie rod end, on my TJS it was the axle side track bar hole. It doesn’t take much.

Do this with the engine running. You need the power steering to be running to get this accurate. And look carefully at the TB frame mount location on the inner frame rail.

Do you mean could you swap in a c clip axle into a non c clip housing? If so, unfortunately the answer is no. The bearing shoulder journal size is incompatible. length and splines are the same though.

I installed a skim on my TJR. It did require the dealer to program it into the ecu but was a non event otherwise. From my understanding, a failure of the skim will fail-secure and will immobilize. I liked the skim system overall.

Sounds like Hesco lol. The high flow t stat housing is a gimick. You need to keep the coolant in the block long enough to exchange the heat. Same goes for the radiator. High flow pumps only really work when you have increased capacity that matches.

Shocks. Grab some OME and enjoy the ride

I battled DW Coming from the TB on my last MJ and some on my new one as well. The best setup I got that cured it was the Iron Man Fab track bar setup. You get a double sheet frame side bracket that keep the stock angles, a cross frame tie bar which greatly stabilizes that bracket, and a solid tie rod with different axle side bolt sizes to choose from. I went up to 1/2” and welded on some 14mm thick cuts and washers as well to reinforce the axle side bracket. After that all DW was gone. When I did steering tests on dry pavement with the engine running, you could see the oem frame side track bar bracket separating at its weld joint meet the frame. The factory seems to have designed it for light duty and low use.

Been down this road many times, it is likely the triple e fans not getting sufficient voltage (the MJ electrical system doesn’t have enough power to spare to run 3 high cfm fans in its stock form) or the flowkooler pump. The mishimoto rads are generally very solid and a good upgrade. Check all your hoses and clamps as well. It only takes a pinhole of a leak to overheat. Does it cool down when your are cruising at higher speeds? Are you sure you bled all the air out? The other items you listed are lower on the suspect list. Though, I would ask, your 12hole injectors are rated the proper flow rate at the MJ fuel pressure? Only reason I ask is that most are rated at 3 bar or more of fuel pressure..