ghetdjc320

I've been considering that option as well. You could run a raspberry pi based system and an old or lcd display. Would be fairly straight forward to have it display metadata like bluetooth song info, radio station numbers/names (with an HD radio hat) and input names. If I was going that route (which I may lol), I'd just strip the entire guts out of the radio and use the shell, faceplate and probably the buttons interface once I've mapped them out.

Next up, I’m going to measure the am/fm radio module output voltage to the pre-amp. I’d like to install a tinysine Bluetooth module which has an audio priority line. So basically, the am/fm radio signal will first go to the tinysine module. The module will pass through the audio from the radio until it receives a Bluetooth audio signal. Once it does, it will completely block the am/fm input. This is in an effort to delete bleed through from the radio without disabling it. The issue we’ve had with this in the past is the output level of the tinysine module is 1.9vrms which overloads the pre-amp and introduces distortion. So I will introduce a line level attenuator to the signal to match that of the am/fm radio. Then I’ll tap the pre-amp output signal and run it through an active DSP board which will ramp back up my line level outputs from .6vrms up to +/-2vrms. Replacing the bulbs on the RX-172 LCD is tricky but not difficult if you take your time and don’t overheat the board desoldering the bulbs. The replacement bulbs for the actual button backlighting is a t1 style. I’ll post up part numbers here in a bit. Too much of this information has stayed elusive now for too long imo. Another option I’m exploring is repurposing the play/rewind/fast forward buttons to control the Bluetooth module playback. I’d map them as play/pause, skip forward and return. I’d also like to map an actual input switch. If I go this route, the priority audio pass through will be irrelevant. The ultimate goal here is keeping it looking stock but functioning like a newer unit and integrating a DSP for audio quality improvements.

Pics added

So... I've been digging through a recent RX-172 from a 92 MJ recently. I'm really just doing process of elimination signal testing. I've had many different ideas about what to do with these ready from custom Arduino with OLED interface in place of the stock LCD to installing a DSP amplifier board in place of the tape deck. From what I've been gathering, The main am/fm radio processing board is the large bottom PCB on the bottom of the radio. There is a 3 wire JST connection that feeds the pre-amp module with radio signal in basically an XLR audio format. There is another 3 wire JST from the cassette deck module to the pre-amp. What I'm referring to as the pre-amp is the small board that hosts the two pins that people are using for the aux input and the volume/fader and tone control pots. The actual amplifier board is located just behind the main radio speaker/power connector. I'm going to do a picture dump so everyone can see the insides in more detail. I have zero use for the tape deck. with the removal of the tape mechanism bracket, you now have a really nice mounting platform for a variety of PCB modules such as DSP's or Amplifiers. The radio board still needs power to provide the LCD with information to display such as the clock and radio station. Will add to this in a bit but for now here is a picture dump:

If It's the blank, those were normally just a thin plastic bezel that was attached to the larger gauge cluster bezel. You can also get 3d printed aftermarket ones that will just have a couple of carling style rocker switch holes. Or you can grab the switch holder from any 96- XJ or MJ that had the actual switch holder there. Somewhere, I have buckets of them lol.

I’m thinking something like this could be made to work: https://vwispwest.com/retaining-clip-arm-rest-for-quarter-panel-311867289/

Are you trying to get it back to stock or keep a 4” lift?

I think we all know that there are only a handful of manufacturers and I’m not saying that a quality product cannot be had from China as we all know it can. However, back to the original question, any info on Axiom? @golddigger, any information or experience with them? As for timken or SKF, they still are oe design. The question is whether there is a truly superior engineered product available (which Axiom claims to be). Something that can stand up to heavier tires and less wheel offset which tends to kill oe style units. I’ve bought many a Timken bearing over the years but the last two sets I purchased did not last at all and started to become noisy within a few thousand miles. One on my MJ with 33’s and one set on my TJ with 30” tires. Keep in mind that I run the 99.5+ style unit bearings for the slightly different offset and longer lug studs. In the TJ world, these are the Timken units that seem to be having higher than anecdotal failure rates recently, and the timing is suspiciously close to when production moved. Of course, there also appear to be counterfeit Timkens floating around. I haven’t had any premature failures with SKF so far. But again, the question here is Axiom

Anyone ever heard of this company? Supposedly upgraded internals but not very specific. Timken appears to be all outsourced now. SKF has been my go to but I’d be all for a truly upgraded unit if there is such a thing

I think a lot of members don’t even realize the Epic section exists. DIY section suffers from a similar fate.

You’re in Epic tech so it definitely qualifies . This section of the forum doesn’t get much traffic but it really does have some fantastic builds and info. It’s awesome that you have some really out of the box designs and fabrication that can be referenced in the years to come. Keep posting here, even if it doesn’t get many replies, it will have a good home

What year are the new buckets from?

Need pics!!

I had them vector traced. Will try to dig up the file and post it

That’s a clean looking bumper!

I’m curious what issue you are currently experiencing? I run catch cans on high performance marine engines but that is simply because such engines have more blow by than most along with intercoolers that would loose efficiency if coated in oil. But in a 4.0, unless the vent system on you valve cover isn’t working properly (which is a serious possibility), I’ve almost never seen a single drop of oil in that tube. Kind of ironic too that we used to dip air filters in motor oil to improve the filtration of fine particles and prevent the top ends from rusting prematurely

I see rock auto has an SKF rebuilt kit part number STCK231. May be a good setup

I used the Novak kit a few years ago but it had several missing pieces and wasn’t really a quality kit (cheap seals and bearings). That may have changed recently. Normally I really like Novak products. On my last tcase rebuild, I went in rock auto and picked up every SKF bearing and seal I could find but that was for a 242

The ideal ones are a pair of RHD 2001 explorer cables. Dorman still makes them. C660104 is the doorman part number. Grab 2 of them. Good for anything from stock height to 6” lift. They fit explorer disks along with KJ or ZJ disk swaps and the other end fits the Comanche equalizing block.

here’s your 3.08 gears. Same price as any other. Just far less popular a ratio to swap https://revolutiongear.com/revolution-gear-ring-pinion-for-dana-35-3-08-5-13-ratio/

It has arrived. Wow, thoroughly impressed. Full Dakota digital custom HDX gauge set. The work was top notch.

The jeepcables kit is a good thing to do “while you’re in there”. I’ve ran optima yellow tops for many years now with no issues. I do suspect there was a bad batch after switching production companies. But my current battery is from 2024 with zero issues. Odyssey is who I run for marine applications and would definitely use them in automotive as well.

Thanks! So many small touches to get it to look this way but the workmanship seems really good. Looking forward to getting hands on and getting it installed

Just got the final product pic from the builder. Looking forward to seeing how they built this. It’s super clean imo. All gauge sweeps match the c5 corvette. The two displays can display any sensor input that you want. I’m thinking fuel pressure would be good and maybe run their tpms as well

If you pull the brake light fuse, do the blinkers work?