Jump to content

ghetdjc320

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    5176

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Everything posted by ghetdjc320

  1. ghetdjc320
    Congratulations!!
  2. ghetdjc320
    I’d keep things renix. The HO doesn’t have much in the way of support for stroker builds. The OBD1 ecu which is and SBEC2 unit, can be chipped and programmed but only by a select few people. The renix system with its knock sensor has proven itself in basic mild strokers. If your after tuning performance and flexibility, aftermarket efi is you’re best bet though later model obd2 systems have a bit more tune ability and can use HP Tuners. Still not the same as a true stand alone efi system though. Strokers and custom efi for the 4.0 get you in the realm of engine swap territory As for the AX15 tranny, on internal slave models (pre 94), they had a 5/8 pilot tip. 94+ are 3/4 pilot tip. No appreciable difference strength wise but you may need to swap pilot bushings as mentioned. You can trim up using the DPG method with decent results and probably clear 33’s. The trick is to be able to fully stuff them and keep your turning radius.
  3. ghetdjc320
    Awesome! Thanks for making these. Will definitely be grabbing a set
  4. ghetdjc320
    Here is a 1.25” front andapter along with a KJ liberty rear axle which is 2.5” wider in the rear plus a 3/4 wheel adapter. So basically rear is 2” further out in each side and front is 1.25. I have zero issues with this setup and a great turning radius.
  5. ghetdjc320
    I suspect AMC wanted to reuse the same pile of Dana 35’s they already had in stock for other vehicles vs spec’ing the correct size for our trucks.
  6. ghetdjc320
    Thought I’d check in for a progress report. I’m pleased to say I am getting a ton of use out of the truck and have a few thousand trouble free miles on this build. Few small items that need to be addressed: 1. My speedometer and gas gauge both quit (I fill the tank very frequently now to be on the safe side lol) 2. I have some small paint peel near the third brake light to address. I do plan on doing a full repaint of the exterior at some point to eliminate any final imperfections. 3. I have a tiny bit of death wobble but only in specific circumstances. The bottom drivers side corner of my windshield came loose on me a couple of months ago. Started noticing some water on the floor mat after a heavy rain. Fortunately have a budy here who owns an auto glass shop and they reset the whole glass and made it perfect. Other than those items, I have great steering, brakes, AC, audio, and overall a smooth daily driver. The engine is perfectly matched for this truck. I do really like this swap.
  7. ghetdjc320
    I was looking at those then they came out. They seem like a nice option. How is the frequency response on them?
  8. ghetdjc320
    This is a good trick that speeds up the process and gives great results.
  9. ghetdjc320
    For question 3: you may be able to use the master shims that you picked up from the ZJ but you’re typically better off just running a custom shim stack to set your backlash. Run the shims outside of the carrier bearings. Make sure to get some preload in the shim stack once you get to zero lash. As for the other items, note the order of assembly as you remove the components from your axle. There were a few variation in assembly and realistically, there are a few variations that work when it comes to getting your gearset aligned properly. Your powertrax LSD should also have some assembly instructions to follow for the carrier. If not, use the Truetrac D35 manual. As for axle seals and bearings, with bolt in axles, they are easier to service down the road than a c clip axle Home Depot is a good resource for brake part cleaner, shop rags ect.
  10. ghetdjc320
    So you’re looking for horror stories? Why not ask about those who have had no issues with their axles as well? If all you’re looking for is problem stories, you’ll be worried
  11. ghetdjc320
    The 7 blade is the mechanical fan. They are an eBay find. Don’t recall exactly what they came in but I have sourced them from a couple of ZJs at the junk yard. I think they came as standard on a lot of Jeeps. The heavy duty fan clutch is also a ZJ part number. You can buy those from Hayden at your local Napa. I don’t have the part number but I’m sure some of the mementos here will chime in with it. The later model XJ e fan is a 10 blade units with curved blades. Is has excellent flow for its size. The oem Mopar or a used one are good bets. Then just ensure there’s adequate power supply.
  12. ghetdjc320
    All the above is solid advice. E fans are no replacement for the mech fan but *can* work if you upgrade coolant capacity enough to offset the diminished airflow. Options are limited in an MJ/XJ though. A solid stock system with the later model XJ e fan along with solid alternator voltage-13.8v minimum-and the 7 blade fan with HD clutch is a solid system. If you’re overwhelming the cooling system and overheating in a stock rig, sometimes a lean run condition is to blame.
  13. ghetdjc320
    I’m running these. Took me about 3 months to get them in but they just arrived a few weeks ago. Purchased mine through Summit
  14. ghetdjc320
    I’ll see if I can find the Bluetooth module that I picked up. Jeremy had it patched in and working. The issue we had is the output of the Bluetooth is a bit too hot for the jeep radio preamp board. I’m sure some added resistance to lower down the output voltage of the module or perhaps the input voltage from the fm receiver would take care of that. It’s the ideal scenario though once thats been taken care of. As for the radio project, well, it’s coming up on 3 years. Hoping some day to finish this up Edit: found it https://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1114
  15. ghetdjc320
    I sent my Rx171 to @Minuit Back a few years ago for this very purpose. Unfortunately, my radio or Bluetooth adapter haven’t been returned, but the results were promising. I sourced a really nice Bluetooth 5.0 module that intercepted the FM radio side. Essentially the Bluetooth itself had the aux input that we tied the fm radio to. The output went to the radio’s preamp. This eliminated the radio bleed through issue that the aux input introduced. The Bluetooth was the priority signal. The Bluetooth module itself could also be programmed to adjust a wide variety of parameters. Really cool stuff, but I guess we’ll never know if it works
  16. ghetdjc320
    If you are turning on a hard, dry surface, it will hop and buck like crazy. Good way to break u joints. If you’re going to drive in part time 4wd on hard surface, try not to turn
  17. ghetdjc320
    The ideal recipe I found for my 4.0 MJ was a mishimoto (or cold case) radiator, heavy duty Hayden fan clutch from a ZJ, a good 7 blade mech fan, and the late model XJ 10 blade e fan (but get it on a 40a relay with good solid wiring) and make sure to run the mechanical shroud. Good good, quality stock flow water pump (I dumped my flow kooler for an AC delco gold pump). And some quality stainless hose clamps that don’t bite into the hoses. If you want to go all out, get the Novak radiator for an AMC engine. Thickest core and highest capacity currently available afaik, though it will require some slight mods. But I’d recommend not running triple e fans on a stock electrical system. There isn’t enough amperage available to maintain charging voltage, and those e fans need to run at charging voltage (~13.8-14v) to flow enough cfm to cool.
  18. ghetdjc320
    Are you getting fused power in the pdc?
  19. ghetdjc320
    Are those some sort of remote adjusters or a reservoir?
  20. ghetdjc320
    Rotella is some good stuff. JASO rated as well. I’d stick with it. Don’t see any down side to running the synthetic as it still has zddp.
  21. ghetdjc320
    The track bar bracket shouldn’t shift. Try to rock the steering back and forth with power steering on concrete. It also helps to place fingers across both the fixed and possible mobile joints. For instance, for tie rod ends, fingers across the body and joint while using the method above may reveal some movement that is not always obvious to the eyes.
  22. ghetdjc320
    And as for the whole “what if I had manual steering scenario”, a manual steering box would have a different gear reduction which would provide the same amount of steering force whether the truck is running for not though the helper may need a bit more muscle to yield similar effects when the truck isn’t moving. You’re looking for the slightest play in components. While driving, the forces exerted on the steering and suspension components are much stronger, so you’re trying to emulate that as best you can while parked. With power steering and engine running, rocking the steering wheel back and forth in short order or turning it lock to lock may reveal the issue. In my scenario, I noticed the frame side track bar bracket moving slightly “independently” of the frame. It wasn’t huge but that’s where the problem was and no amount of torquing bolts would stop it as the bracket itself is what failed as it is multiple sheets of metal folded and spot welded together in typical AMC/Mopar fashion. In my TJR it was a tie rod end, on my TJS it was the axle side track bar hole. It doesn’t take much.
  23. ghetdjc320
    Do this with the engine running. You need the power steering to be running to get this accurate. And look carefully at the TB frame mount location on the inner frame rail.
  24. ghetdjc320
    Do you mean could you swap in a c clip axle into a non c clip housing? If so, unfortunately the answer is no. The bearing shoulder journal size is incompatible. length and splines are the same though.
  25. ghetdjc320
    I installed a skim on my TJR. It did require the dealer to program it into the ecu but was a non event otherwise. From my understanding, a failure of the skim will fail-secure and will immobilize. I liked the skim system overall.
×
×
  • Create New...