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I find myself still taking pictures of my own truck that I’ve been daily driving for months now . Every once in a while it hits that perfect stance look.

Out of curiosity, have you seen the Focal under seat passive subs? I was seriously looking into these as an option when I was sorting audio. Not sure how they would work with the stock brackets though. I measured them for my corbeau brackets and they looked like a perfect fit.

Very true lol. Even the Wendy’s I went to was way better to the ones I’ve been to stateside. I’ve been having good success with gearwrench lately but have noticed they are really starting to rack up their prices. This purchase was more of a one off show piece but it will get some use.

I’ve seen it too, it’s the earlier version of this ratchet iirc. There is a level of build quality that just doesn’t come across though in the video. The craftsmanship is awesome. for my regular ratchet set, I use a Milwaukee socket set and a gearwrench for ratchets

Was in Japan for a few days and found this awesome ratchet. Made by Kyoto Tool Company in Japan. This will be more of a collectors piece but will use it occasionally for some of those simple jobs. Also picked up the matching 12 point socket set.

I’m actually not sure yet. The cluster will read the data from the ecu but it has an obd2 connector. If I do end up using the obd2 port, I’ll see if I can run some sort of splitter for it so I can still connect other things like the HP tuners to it. I like the idea of seeing exactly what the ecu sees without having to run auxiliary sensors all over the place.

I can confirm the shift gate will fit. I got mine from an 01 XJ and used it in my 90 MJ

Yes, but with por15 you don’t grind down to bare metal, you remove loose scale and scotch bright things then apply it.

It appears that the changeover may have happened a little earlier than I thought. External slave in 94 but 3/4 pilot tip in 92. That is per the part number I'm coming across in every jeep application for those years. Parts manual seems to corroborate this. I'm not positive if its the 92 model year or build year yet though.

This is a pretty good use case for some POR15. Is the seam is small enough, the por15 will seep town into it and seal it up, though it may take 2-3 coats to seal well. The stuff gets down into those good for nothing amc spot weld seams quite nicely.

The gauge cluster is officially in the hands of the Dakota Digital custom shop. Estimated turnaround is 2–3 months, but there’s no rush on my end. I’ve requested that the temp, voltage, oil pressure, and RPM sweeps match the C5 Corvette layout, while preserving the overall Jeep gauge arrangement. The speedometer will read to 160 mph (no, it’ll never see that speed), and the KPH markings will be deleted. We’re planning to retain the original Jeep font and incorporate the tomahawk emblem I designed—positioned just above the needle pivot, echoing the placement of the checkered flags on the C5 cluster. The temperature gauge will center at 220°F, just like the OE Corvette, aligning perfectly with the factory thermostat and fan settings I’ve kept in place. The cluster will use a CAN bus module to pull data directly from the ECM using the original sensors—again, mirroring the Corvette’s approach. Factory warning indicators like the check engine and upshift lights will remain in their stock locations. However, the turn signal and high beam indicators will now be integrated into the gauge face itself, eliminating the need for bezel-mounted lamps. A compact OLED display will also be added to the dash, compatible with Dakota Digital’s HDX BIM modules for real-time readouts like TPS, AFR, EGT, and more. I’ll post renderings once they’re ready—really looking forward to seeing what they come up with.

Quite possible. 94+ I believe all have the 3/4 but maybe a later model internal slave has one as well. I know my 90 ax15 needed the 5/8 bushing.

Actually, it probably won’t fit. When they went to external slave, the tranny input shaft was 3/4 vs the 5/8. A pilot bushing from 93- XJ should fit.

Glad you got it wrapped up! Looking forward to seeing it in the streets now

Pilot bushing should fit the snout of your tranny which should be 5/8 inner bore. Clutch kit will be any 94+ XJ. Luk rep-set has been a pretty good go to. Make sure to resurface the flywheel while you’re in there

I’d go with a GS spring. They will already give you a mild lift. Grab your favorite 3” front springs and then make finer adjustments if needed by playing with shackle length or front spacers. The GS springs will give you a more sustainable load capacity and are easy to just bolt on. They should net more lift than an AAL. Ultimately, it comes down to tire size. To clear 32’s, you may need to do a bit of trimming but the end result should be very good. @Eagle_SX4‘s situation is the only one I’ve heard of that didn’t net lift from GS springs . This recipe has typically been very good. If you are really after the best overall setup, call up Alcan and have them make you a set for the rear. Hornbrod ran the GS springs with a small shackle lift and had a nice stance (I believe he ran 32’s also)

4.5 lift will be a bit dificult to accomplish with the GS springs. 3” will keep better control arm and steering geometry overall. An AAL will likely not change the free arch of the 1250 springs. Those leaves are thick.

The remflex don’t cost much more you just have to order them in.

For manifold gasket, grab a Remflex. They seal up exceptionally well.

Here's my .02. keep a 1" overlap all the way around. take it down to clean metal and then use 3m panel bond with some clamps or whatever else you need to get it to form a good tight seam (this is crucial to keeping water and moisture out of that seam going forward). Once cured per TDS, add all your welds around the perimeter. If you can pre-drill the new floor pan where the frame support is, you can rosette weld into the hole. If you have access to a deep jawed spot welder, definitely go that route. Also, I'd not use any one part (air dry) seam sealers on the floor pans. You want two part mixing seam sealers ideally. SEM and 3M make excellent medium bodied seam sealer that will stay in place. once seam sealed with 2 part, you can brush on some seam sealer as factory did. Once complete, get a few cans ok 2K epoxy primer (most auto paint stores carry this stuff in rattle cans that have a hardener you puncture before mixing) then use raptor liner, monster liner or any good 2 part coating. Lizard skins is also a good option. 2K basically means there is a hardener that cures the finish vs just air dry. 2K paints and finished tend to be superior in almost all regards. POR15 also works to get down in and seal up thin gaps in seams. You can mask off the back side of the seam then use a brush and brush it down into the seam. One little trick I found to remove the factory seam sealer is a multitool with a caulk cutting blade. Works wonders! Edit: generously brush some POR15 into that open frame cavity as best you can and as far as you can reach while it's all open. AMC loved to overlap metal without sealing in-between leaving all sorts of rust prone areas. You have great access to it now.

It might be worth noting that adding the rubber bumper will not change the speed at which the brake releases. The bumper just keeps it from hitting your fingers as it returns and provides a little bit of cushion. It’s been my experience that improperly adjusted brakes tend to make the parking brake issue worse. Your parking brake should be engaging solidly without having to press it to the floor. If the drums (or parking brake shoes for disk swaps) are adjusted properly, the pedal travel will not go so far so as to wind up the return spring as harshly. Always thought it would be neat to retrofit one of the electric brake actuator kits. Looks like it would work pretty well for an MJ.

I see you referenced 1250lb springs. If you’re considering General Spring, that’s an option but don’t use SOA less you are ok with 7+ inches of lift. There is no lift difference between the 4 leaf and 5 leaf pack with general spring, it is only the load capacity which is different, and 1250 is plenty for most MJs. My current springs have full length BDS add a leafs in them. You’ll see varying info on add a leafs as there isn’t a one size fits all approach here. if you’re running original 4WD leaf springs, most full length add a leafs (which tend to be for Cherokee's) will have about the same free arch meaning they are only really adding load capacity. This does however, still net out a small lift. From my bds setup I saw about 1.5” after driving it around the block a few times. Also consider that the Comanche has a factory rake to it. So if you’re aiming for a level stance, the front needs to be approx 2” higher than the rear. One perfectly viable option is to run the General Spring 4 leaf (1250) pack along with 3” front coils (metal cloak is a nice option but there are many others). That has a very nice stance. After some settling, you may decide to add a little bit of rear shackle lift and or front puck lift to adjust further or dial in the stance exactly how you want it. Add a leaf is another option albeit a lot more work. Disassembling the leaf pack can be a pain. In my case I wanted a very custom spring setup so I disassembled and measured each leaf free arch then rebuilt the pack to get a perfectly even match. The center pin for XJ add a leafs also needs to be redrilled for MJ’s if done properly. 3” of lift is fine on short arms as mentioned though I wouldn’t go any higher on short arms. This lift level is really a sweet spot overall. If budget allows, the absolute best setup is a custom leaf pack from Alcan or similar. Ruff stuff and Rusty’s have…issues…

Not sure what the thread size is but a helicoil should work fine if you can find one that fits. I didn’t know the HO block had a boss that could be tapped for a knock sensor. If it’s not in the stock location, you may be able to simply relocate it by taping another unused boss in a similar location.

Sounds like CPS though I’d throw fuel pump/filter in the mix. Might be worth checking your major ground connection as well if you haven’t already, but specially the engine block and the fuel pump ground behind the left tail light.

In a major departure from the norm, I picked up a really clean 2019 X3 about two months ago. Has been a really comfortable daily driver for my wife. Had 55k miles on the clock and zero issues. It’s the 4cyl and gets around very well for its size. Othe night driving home, it went into limp mode with reduced power. I also noticed I lost my temp gauge on the dash. Fortunately, I was almost home. There wasn’t any overheating, but the codes I pulled up show no communication with the “heat management module”. From what I gather, it’s like an electronic thermostat that also provides temp sensor and many other functions. However, I also get two other recurring groups of codes: one for the accelerator pedal sensor and another for the tank vent valve. Since these all came up at the same time, I’m trying to determine if there is a common cause. My thoughts lean towards replacing the heat management module but wondering if possibly anyone here has any knowledge of these that could point me in the right direction. The Bimmer forums seem to be just advertisements, and the Facebook groups don’t let me post the issue for whatever reason.