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This is a question of ergonomics. It’s not even based on your height but more your proportions. If you’re taller from the hips up you may not like them. If you like more thigh and knee support due to longer legs, you may like them. I’m cracking up just writing this . it is funny though, you’ll see some posts about x seat or x seat bracket is all wrong and is too high or too low. If you have two people both 6’ tall, they will likely have different proportions and will likely give different feedback on fit and/or comfort. Bottom line, they may work fine for you and that’s all that mattes, but you’ll have to try them.

As far as I can tell, the only difference with the 84-86 swap is you can reuse your bell housing . I will say though, a good internal slave cylinder normally works very well. Many vehicles use the internal design. I actually prefer it, provided that it’s a good quality unit. Should provide many years of trouble free operation and last as long as a decent clutch.

The MJ’s I’ve had both had the push in style bump stop that doesn’t have the threaded piece. I’ve use the rubicon express bump stops twice now with good results. If you need a longer bump stop than that, use the puck style spacers on the axle side to take up the space.

I posted the parts needed for a swap to the newer style vs the somewhat obscure (albeit intriguing) 84-86 style. You’ll need to pull the trans though regardless. But for sure swap the master if it’s leaking or giving any issues

Sounds great! Are you still running an ax15 with that setup?

As for parts, if you don’t go with the 84-86 setup mentioned above, you’ll need an external slave bell housing, input shaft retainer, clutch fork, pivot ball with retainer clip, throw out bearing (DO NOT GET CHEAP WITH THIS ONE ), and the slave cylinder along with the line. Often times the master/slave are sold as a unit but you can purchase separately. Luk and Centric seem to have been good after market suppliers for clutch components. Go timken, precision, national or SKF for the throw out bearing. Transmission has to be removed. Just take it one bolt at a time and you’ll be done in no time . When bleeding an external slave setup, I’d recommend “reverse bleeding”. There are a few good YouTube videos regarding the process. It would probably be worth it to swap the clutch and pilot bearing as well. Luk rep-set clutch and a bronze pilot bushing normally are good values. External slave cylinders use a different line fitting than the old 7/16 inverted flare master cylinders used but can be adapted.

Here is the worst offender .

I believe the ones that he has for the mirror deleted are a bit different. The originals have a flange all the way around them and a bit different cut. Some original style replacements would be super handy

When I LS swapped, I went with 10awg frame reinforcement from the control arms brackets forward

Nice! Please let me know when you might have those available. Mirror gaskets would be awesome as well.

Antenna blank plugs? Any chance you’ll have these for the 97+ fenders as well? Another nice product would be a simple gasket for the door lock mechanism. YJ’s have them but they don’t fit MJ/XJs

I was able to source some good used ones with my metal handle swap but it would be great if someone could reproduce the door handle gaskets and especially the mirror gaskets. @Dzimm or @boxyjeep

Looking great! One suggestion while you still have things apart, get the seam sealer out of that vertical back cab seam and treat those areas. There is one seam under each lower corner of the back glass. They run from the glass to the floor. The factory’s cheap seam sealer was applied to the inside and sometimes to the outside groove. I’ve deleted that seam and welded it shut on both my MJ’s. They are horrible water trapping spots.

Looking good! That was a lot of down time for some spacers

If you’re going to remove your floor pans, you can access the inside of the channel for repair. The frame “cap” inside the cab is a significant integral part of the structural integrity. So if you incorporate a flange to repair the frame rail, be sure you can get weld penetration from that top cap all the way to your new piece. If the rust isn’t that bad though, you may be able to just get away with some patching, especially in light of the frame plating you intend to do. Just depends on where exactly the problem spots are and how extensive the hidden rust may be.

This thread may help with some answers. MC bore size only needs to change when you need more fluid to drive larger/multiple piston calipers.

Remember “Brock’s oem imports” on eBay? If that guys had this thing he’d list it for 20k . Seems like a good price when you consider to an aftermarket bumper runs close to a grand.

It’s the resistance reading that the fuel level sender sends to the gauge. Renix era jeeps from 90- read about 85-100 ohms when full and 0 when empty. HO era from 91+ read 0 ohms as full and 100 ohms as empty. Basically the opposite sweep between the two sending units.

MTS can send you the correct gauge sweep sending unit. There are only two gauge sender sweeps, 90- & 91+

MTS is a company that makes sending units and related parts. https://www.mtscompany.com/lockrings.htm

Just get it below the sending unit which should be anything less than about 2/3 tank

OMG, the more I watch the worse it gets

This video is the epitome of brake misinformation Not sure where to even begin… First, don’t mount your booster sideways . Second, that is not how you bench bleed . Third, almost everything he says about braking is incorrect. Don’t mean to be harsh but… oh boy… On a serious note, a dual diaphragm booster increases the vacuum assist and helps increase line pressure. All of this is relative to the master cylinder bore to caliper piston sizes. Matching the right size mc bore to the caliper piston area is what really provides good braking power.

A new lock ring and gasket are probably in order. Pretty simple swap, just make sure to keep the area clean so dirt doesn’t get in the tank when you remove the old gasket. MTS carries the parts you need among others. Part numbers GMLR-1 for the locking ring and GMOR-1 for the gasket