ghetdjc320

You can have UPS pick it up. I’ve had a pickup arranged before and it works well.

I’m currently running aftermarket fenders with an oe front header/grill. The fenders took some modification to fit properly and are definitely a thinner metal than originals. You can make them work if you need to but I’d suggest just getting some junkyard fenders as well.

There are simple thermostatic switches that will work for you. Painless wiring has some nice little kits. You’ll need to determine where to place the switch. You will also need a power relay capable of whatever amperage your fan is going to pull (normally 30a is good but some require higher power).

it’s been a long time in the making. Ready to hit the road!

In the watercraft world, we use a variety of clamps depending on the application with 316 stainless Oetiker being a mainstay on most fuel and coolant hoses.

I found one that fit great at Ace on the hardware section. It was a Hillman part.

Lookup the different types of rod ends and you can decide what works best for your application. Stock replacement arms also work well at that lift height provided you address your wheel to control arm clearance in some fashion. The oe design had flexibility and low weight while still maintaining good linear rigidity. In the event of a crash they will crumple up and give way to reduce your impact force. Aftermarket control arms definitely have their place too but the oe design is not that bad and actually make sense for a great number of milder builds.

Swap that hydraulic line. You’ll need to just replace it from the master to the slave cylinder. Don’t try to splice it as it will not last. You’ll need to bleed out the air afterward.

I know the 4.0 and its accessories are quite heavy. I can’t imagine that makes up all the difference though . I kept the axles on the light side along with c rated tires and 17” aluminum wheels to avoid extra unsprung weight but I wasn’t conscientiously trying to go for a light weight build.

I'm sure it does. I tried to stay away from too much extra weight but between the hidden winch, bed roll top cover, crossmember/skid, front and rear bumpers, I'm surprised by the final weight.

Sounds good . Great color choice with the paint/rims combo. Truck looks great, just hadn't seen that much wheel arch opening as a final product and wondering if there were some plans in the works. Out of curiosity, how much space is there from the top of the tire to the bottom of there flare?

I just have to ask, are you planning to stick with that tire size and lift? That’s a massive front wheel arch gap you have there . Or do you need that amount of wheel travel?

Truck is few days out now from port. It made a stop over at Honolulu for a day. According to the shipper, the truck came in at a weight of exactly 3,231 lbs.

The return hose carries no significant pressure so carb hose is fine. There is not a decent barb on the hardline at the engine side where it switches to soft line. An Oetiker clamp is what I’ve seen factory use there. In fact, I’d use stainless Oetiker clamps on all but the fuel sending unit connection. 3/8 fuel injection hose on the supply side will work just fine. Personally I prefer to use a vapor guard hose which is a marine rated efi hose.

The actual resistance sweep is different between renix and HO aside from being reversed. For an accurate gauge, match your sender to the cluster. The HO requires a VSS signal. You can retain a renix cluster with mechanical speedo by swapping in a 91-92 YJ VSS. It has a pass through for the manual speedo cable and your VSS wires.

As Limey said, MTS. JPSU-7 is the part you need.

Awesome, thanks. So center pin is always gauge it sounds like

Just like the title says, I need the fuel sender connector pinout. It's just 3 wires, power, ground, and level sender resistance. I can reference the sender or body side of the connector. Either an HO or Renix point would be fine.

Yes it does. That one ground wire is the reference ground for both.

I misspoke, test between the sending unit ground pin and the fuel level sensor wire. That should give you the correct ohm reading.

Can you check the resistance from the sending unit to chasis ground at the fuel tank connector?

There are also some alternatives such as wilwood’s electric parking brake calipers or a transfer case parking brake if all else fails. That being said, I’m sure the rotors you have will work fine.

If you have all electric fans, check your voltage with the engine running.

Any one happen to know the different sun visor compatibility year? Are all the 86-92 MJ visors the same length? I know that my 90 and 91 visors were plastic and not fiber board but other than that, trying to determine which visors would be a direct fit (perhaps from other XJ years). Need to source some new ones

What fan setup did you install?