ghetdjc320

I can't imagine a hydraulic roller cam worth that much more on a 4.0 than a flat tappet cam with the same grind. Maybe 5hp at some ridiculous rpm?? Solid roller, perhaps?? Thats a bummer if hylift-johnson isn't making them anymore. I see Mopar ones are still available though. I'm not sure if they actually have them in stock but here is the elusive mopar performance cam: https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-camshaft-engine~p4529229ac.html Normally comes with the lifters as well. Seems like there is less and less for the 4.0. It's bitter sweet, I've had so many Jeep straight 6's. But I will say, they are really hard to get much bang for your buck when upgrading. I feel the 87-95 4.0 cams are great overall. Bump up your compression and do any mods that will keep your intake velocity high to take advantage of that short 197 duration. Regearing and shedding useless weight off of Jeep's helps a ton (pun intended) and is probably one of the best improvements to drivability for the money.

Just remove or trim back that small catch on the left side of the shifter slider. No real need to have a shift “gate” in the first place.

Found in a junk yard in Arkansas. Completely destroyed but was able to remove its badging and cab vent covers. Short bed Dana 35 2WD

Totally understand that. Thats how I feel about my Notch flares

If you're planning to bring this truck to Guam, here are a few suggestions that may help: 1st. Cooling system needs to be simply the best you can get - Double jeep e fans don't cut it and neither do the cheaper triple fan setups (been there done that). The air here is stifling and you simply need the capacity to shed enough BTU's. You need a thick radiator core and lots of CFM. I'd look for a radiator core thickness at least a full 2" thick at a minimum. OEM radiators will not cut it. The Novak unit, Griffin, Cold case ect. all make units that could work. 2nd. You need A/C. 3rd. See 2nd 4th. The amount of salt in the air here is epic. Like far more than those in Florida or HI typiclly see. The salt, sun and moisture here kills everything in short order. Get rid if the rust under the windshield glass in the frame and back glass. POR 15 is your friend here. Also make sure all of your seals are in tip top shape and replace as needed. Unfortunately, the sun here will destroy rubber trim and your paint in short order. If you do decide to paint your truck, use a base/clear and get at least 3 layers of clear on there to protect the base as long as possible. For reference, I apply high end solvent-based ceramic coating to my WRX every 6 months. That is the same stuff that should last 3+ years stateside. No joke, the UV here is extremely intense. Use 316 stainless fasteners when you can and add some copper anti-seize to every fastener possible, especially around suspension components. Just keep in mind that this island is a one way destination for most any mechanical items (RIP). You'll find endless amounts of broken down vehicles and equipment here both on base and off (unfortunately not salvageable). Hopefully you will have covered parking, consider that a necessity if you have BAH and are looking for a place. Most auto parts here are for Japanese vehicles (the Tacoma and 4runner reign supreme here) though there is a decent assortment of basic domestic vehicle parts. The auto shop on NBG is quite worthless. Always broken down equipment or short staffed and closed. Head to Andersen for the auto shop. They still have occasional staffing issues but have a much better facility. Plenty of auto enthusiast on island though. Keep in mind that the island wide speed limit is 35 and traffic can be quite bad. Save some funds for getting on the water. That is really where it's at . Keep in mind that the Comanche is a great eye catcher on island, but will have a limited resale value if you decide to sell there as most people will not know what it is. Conversely, you can easily sell a Tacoma or Gladiator here for more than you purchased it if maintained. Hopefully this info is helpful as the build progresses

Grab some Johnson lifters. They make quite a few options for AMC engines that work great

There have been 4.0 roller cams before (e.g. 505 performance). A flat tappet can work fine if properly setup with the right springs along with some decent oil for it. Biggest issue I've seen is with the lobe width on aftermarket cam blanks. The 2229 mopar cam had the full width lobes as did a few others. I ran the comp 235 cam for upwards of 40K miles with zero issues and that was with the narrow little lobes on that cam. Just need proper oil and break in.

Best mod I’d like to see for a 4.0 from the aftermarket is a flow through head

Welcome aboard! Yep, I’ve been on Guam several years now. Let me know if you have any questions I might be able to help with

I didn’t. They have some type of coating on them. I didn’t want to remove the coating just to apply paint. If the coating ever starts to fail, I’d probably cover it with some clear coat. That way I can keep an eye on any rust that may try to form

I ordered the spectra premium on rock auto and it has the correct sump.

Made me go back out to double check

I think it’s a boostwerks kit. Bought it new off of another club member a few years back

Of course! The body color starts at the lower control arm mounts. That’s where it transitions to raptor liner.

Jewelry box refinished. Also found a few more places to seam seal where there were small gaps in the panels between the wheel wells and inner fenders.

I'm not sure about what to do with the XJ 44 yet. Yeah it was a neat XJ that was buried in the yard. Shoot me a text if you want the details on where it is if you want the front axle. There was a Comanche in the yard also but it was utterly destroyed. Salvaged the badges and cab side trim vent covers from it though. Also got a pic of the vin

Very nice survivor. I would expect more if it was a short bed with bucket seats. Those will fetch a higher price. As it stands I’d estimate 10-12k. There was a 40k mile eliminator recently on FB that went for around 11k iirc. BAT will catch the right kind of buyer though and would be your best bet.

Also, for reference, many have referred to the 97+ for seals as being superior and there is a nice difference. The bulb portion of the seal has a small lip that faces out towards the door to provide a slightly better seal. As I can’t source any nos 97+ seals (if anyone reading this happens to have some, I’d be interested in some possible trading) I’ve been looking into alternative seals that aren’t application specific. Aftermarket seals both for 96- and 97+ tend to be made from a tougher material and don’t have the breather holes that the oem’s did. Therefore, many of these just don’t fit well and make the door very difficult to shut and align properly. Here are some dimensions that may be helpful in the future to sorting out some good door seal alternatives. The actual mounting edge on my can is about 3/16” in most places. Something with a grip range of 1/8-3/16 would be ideal.

Making a few mods to the engine bay before refinish and fina engine install. Finally got some weather that will be decent enough to paint with soon. I cleaned up a newer XJ windshield washer tank and installed it on the fender well. Also got the newer pdc and bracket mocked into place. Just have to finish sealing up a few more holes in the inner fender then will get everything painted.

No it originally had a d35. The 8.25 width, disk brakes, strength and price made sense for the swap. XJ and MJ 44’s were tough to find when I was looking. I know every once in a while one pops up for sale though. I was in the junk yard though the other day and saw an 87 XJ buried in the back. Sure enough it had a 44, so I grabbed it. Also noticed the D30 front was a non-disconnect axle. I didn’t investigate to see if it was an abs or np242 model or not. Neat find though. Very muddy axle but actually pretty clean under it.

Picked up an XJ 44 along with a pair of newer 97+ doors along with some odds and ends the other day. Definitely going to use the newer doors once I saw the internal bracing and overall design. I can't quite bring myself to go with the newer dash though especially with that airbag steering wheel. IMO the 97+ doors and center console match the stock dash nicely provided the colors are uniform. Also picked up a 97+ console with an np242 bezel and shift gate.

Yeah, it's taking some serious mods to get these to work. I almost feel it would be better to remove the bolts that are fiberglassed into the flares and mock them up flush. Notch needs to just get their act together and get the bolts aligned in a jig so they can keep their positioning consistent enough to create a mounting template.

I’m suspecting they may have mislabeled my notch flares?? It almost seems like the drivers side should be on the passenger side. The difference between each side is only very slight. Here are some reference pics. Already had to drill several holes with the step bit about 3/4”. Have a couple of spots I’ll have to weld the inner and outer skins back together. Just not getting the fit of the “legs” on each side the way I want it. There is one “leg” of each side flare that is about 1/2” shorter and according to the labels Notch put on the inside of the flare, that slightly shorter leg will end up going towards the front with the slightly longer to the rear. Not sure if this is correct or not?? It’s almost impossible to get detailed pics from anyone who has installed these on an MJ These remind me of trying to mock up some cheap body kits on a civic back in the day The only thing I like so far is the wheel well opening is about perfect for these 33’s at low lift.

I can live with the glove box not dropping fully.