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Yep that's the one

I believe those are straight cut o ring fittings. Coldhose has lengths of aluminum tubing and all the fittings.

Just to throw this out there, a few of us here are running a rolling hardtop cover from truck covers USA. It’s a pricey item but the functionality and quality is top tier.

Let’s add a coil spring compressors and high lift jack. Both are widow makers And I refer to my plasma cutter as the “lightsaber”

https://coldhose.com/products/universal-reduced-barrier-r-134a-hose-kit?variant=35532365365408 there are other kits as well that would work. Add a drier and a binary or trinary pressure switch from vintage air and you have all the necessary hoses and fittings. Amazon has some decent hydraulic reduced barrier crimpers or you can always take them into a shop to have them crimped once the length and clocking has been set.

You can alway grab a universal hose kit with reduced barrier hose and a hydraulic crimper and make whatever you need

Try flipping the lever where the electric door solenoid would go (it would sit below the door latch mechanism and used a short pushrod). You need to try to flip that existing latch mechanism either to the locked or the unlocked position a few times.

Normally I measure full compression and static ride height. That dimension should be approx 60% of your shock travel. Make sure your bump stops bottom out before you shock does and that will be your collapsed length.

I’ve used a couple of aftermarket sets so far. They are much thinner than oem and need to be trimmed in certain spots for fitment. Go with used oem ones if you can find them.

That’s the one

I may pull the trigger and go with the 3.4 1st gear set as I will be towing occasionally. I do believe though that I’ll grab at least the marlin parts and will post up what I find in my build thread. Also need to source a good quality rebuild kit. I plan on keeping my engine fairly stock aside from headers and intake along with some reliability items. I’m guessing somewhere right around 400 at the crank. I feel like axle gearing also plays quite a role in how the tranny holds up in real life situations.

The speedtek gearset should have higher torque handling than the tremec and they’ll mix ratios at your request. Combine that with the marlin mods and you’d have quite gearbox for a jeep. Someone has to be willing to try it… maybe that will be me

Any pics of how your hinges turned out using the hardware mentioned in this thread?

Possible distributor is 180* out of phase? If it doesn’t run and backfires, timing is suspect.

BFG AT for me

If you’re looking at the TR6060, checkout what speedtech engineering has been doing with the ax and r series with their gearsets. You can run custom ratios and have a 750ftlb+ rated tranny with custom ratio’s. Add that to the marlin upgrades and you easily have the ultimate r/ax series tranny that should outperform the tremec

Have you checked your codes? Key on-off three times. The cel will flash with the codes. Keep in mind that HO MJ’s aren’t very common here. You may want to also reference XJ/YJ threads for comparison

Interesting. If it starts fine while cold but dies when warm, CPS is definitely up there on the list.

Have you replaced the CPS?

Please do! Since JCR discontinued their rear bumper (even the DIY one), there aren’t any other good alternatives. Dirtbound doesn’t use all the frame bolt holes, then they decide to mount their hitch to the brackets themselves and not to the frame. All the other options look like 2x4 bumpers that someone wants several hundred for.

I really do hope it works for you. If not, well at least you can check that one off the list

Oh boy, could you also shoot some detailed pics of the cuts you’re making for the rear notch fenders? It has been very difficult to find any decent pictures.

If you’re selling it due to issues, you will get low balled. I’d still strongly suggest that, if you haven’t done so yet, put a NEW fully charged battery in it and see if that solves things. If it doesn’t, you can always return the battery. Just ignore the fact that it will crank and shows good voltage. In looking at your various posts regarding the different issues you’ve had, I still am strongly suspicious of that battery being the underlying culprit. If you can get it fixed and decide to sell, at least it will be worth more

I feel compelled to repeat myself here: have you tried a NEW battery? . Don’t assume it works because it cranks or shows voltage with a meter. You keep having issues and have tried all sorts of diagnostics. The fuel pump prime comes from the ecu and not directly from the ignition switch.