ghetdjc320

Yes to questions 1-3. You can use a hydraulic press or even an air hammer. The pin is already a pressed in piece. You're just pressing it in a bit further to take up any slack. Get your e brake assembly out and you should be able to identify what yours is going to need.

Awesome, thank you

Any one able to take a tape measure out to their truck and measure the space on the bed floor between the wheel wells? Also could use the dimension inside the bed from the front bulkhead to the end of the floor near the tailgate. My truck is thousands of miles away at the moment

I had considered this for some time. It’s a nice all around option: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_020M508/Clarion-M508.html

A customer interiors guy once told me 1/8” birch is one of the best materials to use. For $125 though, I think I’d just grab pair of the ones in the link. I don’t see an option for the round speaker cutouts though as found on the higher trims.

Came across these the other day and was pretty stoked to see that someone is making these: https://www.williamwork.com/product-category/wwautoparts/wwjeepparts/jeepxjmj8496/?fbclid=IwY2xjawGtA7FleHRuA2FlbQIxMQABHRTKELt_h9CNReGOhCr7T-n2dFriD7nxAPp7BmoXnnamok9SNlkguotmuw_aem_tI68xEjiQ4FVVSAWzX2Ftw

Fix your fuel leak at the rail. That’s critical

Easiest to replace the condenser now with the radiator out and just leave it capped off for now. From your pics, it looks like the lines to the expansion valve and evaporator are just removed and taped. You’ll want to flush out the evaporator and see if it holds pressure.

Probably another few thousand Commanche’s

I’d also go 4.56.

My bad I quoted the wrong user. Now I'm trying to remember who it is. The creator of it has the link to that page in his sig. Edit: found it. Its @derf

Going to leave this link here for this tool that @derf created a long time ago: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

That is the cargo lamp switch. You can unplug the connection from the back of the switch of the switch to deactivate the cargo lamp if the switch no longer works. As for the blinkers, this is a pretty common occurrence and tends to be either a bad socket or bulb though it can have other causes. If you turn on your hazard lights do they all flash as they should? .

If you’re needing a complete new headliner, go SMS. He’s a vendor on here and I bet he could get that shipped to you. Otherwise, if you have your existing backer board, you can order just the fabric from him.

Yep, in regards to the cooler lines, they should be the same

There are different approaches that should work here. Of course you can always replace the stock parts that have failed. Alternatively, you can upgrade the connections and lines using a method similar to this one: https://there4.io/2019/07/17/Jeep-XJ-Transmission-Cooler-Line-Ugrade/

So 7 5/8 - 10 1/4 free arch spec. Does anyone have any stock springs lying around and could measure the free arch? I’m almost wondering if the 10.25 free arch springs in the chart above is for some sort of specialty MJ.

That’s correct. There are a huge variety or usb digital to analog converters available and they typically have a 3.5mm unbalanced stereo output that will then be wired to the board inside the radio. Once you have an aux input on your radio, you centrally connect all sorts of devices to that which in turn can interface with the music source via USB, Bluetooth etc.

USB audio is typically a digital signal. You would need to use a digital to analog converter as you’re looking for an unbalanced analog stereo signal to provide the radio’s pre-amp.

Here Isa link as well: https://teamcherokee.com/products/fuel-tank-vent-valve-grommet-cherokee-comanche-1984-1996.html

Those rotary vane pumps have always been problematic for me. Never got more than a year before they started to fail. That being said, it could also be the 12v+ side. Have you checked out the body harness connector near the parking brake?

HO's do have a return style fuel rail until the obd2 era. Try this, prime your fuel pump a few times before starting by turning the key to the "on" position and keeping it there for a few seconds. do this maybe 3-5 times before starting it, then try cranking it and starting. Let us know the results.

I went the Borgeson route on the last build. I wasn’t confident in the original steering shaft’s collapsibility in the event of an accident after decades of oxidation. I bet though, that Borgeson will also have repair and replacement parts that could work with the oem shaft.

Any chance you could get a few detailed shots of the bedside wheel opening cuts you made for the Notch flares?

My manual regulators went out on my last MJ and it was almost impossible to find replacements.