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I really do hope it works for you. If not, well at least you can check that one off the list

Oh boy, could you also shoot some detailed pics of the cuts you’re making for the rear notch fenders? It has been very difficult to find any decent pictures.

If you’re selling it due to issues, you will get low balled. I’d still strongly suggest that, if you haven’t done so yet, put a NEW fully charged battery in it and see if that solves things. If it doesn’t, you can always return the battery. Just ignore the fact that it will crank and shows good voltage. In looking at your various posts regarding the different issues you’ve had, I still am strongly suspicious of that battery being the underlying culprit. If you can get it fixed and decide to sell, at least it will be worth more

I feel compelled to repeat myself here: have you tried a NEW battery? . Don’t assume it works because it cranks or shows voltage with a meter. You keep having issues and have tried all sorts of diagnostics. The fuel pump prime comes from the ecu and not directly from the ignition switch.

Just don’t get the “mass backing” as it will crumble and outgas in the heat.

You’re skill at cutting out all the spot welds is epically impressive

They carry almost every option available. Keep in mind that most any contura styles switch will fit so there are truly tons of options out there.

Bumping this question once again. Anyone know if we can get a hitch mounted in conjunction with this bumper using @krustyballer16 or an oem receiver hitch?

The grip locks are good alternatives to truetracs. All the Detroit products went through the roof with pricing sometime during covid. Used to be able to pick them up for around the price of the grip locks just a few years ago

I agree, looks like a vacuum harness of some sort. I’m really not familiar with the 2.8 but I have run a few Weber carbs in the old 258 engines. Not sure how much fuel pressure you are providing, but the Weber likes a fairly low pressure (somewhere around 3.5-4psi iirc).

The dash cutouts accommodate most standard Contura style switches. I went with OTRATTW switches. I believe the X series. I have a picture somewhere in my build thread of what they look like. They have a more retro look to them that felt period correct to me. Here is a link. Lots of options so you can get exactly what you want. They can also provide harnesses to keep everything clean. https://www.otrattw.net/Contura-V-Series-Contura-X-and-XI/

Tom Woods makes great driveshafts as does Adams (I’ve run several of both with zero issues but slightly better service with Tom Woods). Both specialize in a lot of Jeep applications. A local driveline shop may also be an option if you have one close by

Black magic pads are the hands down best I’ve run. For an off the shelf setup, Centric posi-quiet work good as well. Just keep the pad material on the softer side. The hard pads last a long time but tend to not “bite” as well. And keep in mind that any new brake pads need to embed into the rotor. If your hydraulics all checkout and you’re sure they are good, I’d turn the rotors at your local auto parts store, grab some soft organic brake pads or maybe semi metallics but stay away from ceramics. Follow the break in instructions from the manufacturer to get the pad material properly bedded into the rotor. It really can make a huge difference

If I may ask, what was your goal in swapping to rear disks? A ZJ prop valve offer almost even pressure front and rear. It’s the brake pad surface area, sweep and piston size that provides the bias in a setup like this. If the hydraulics are all good, I’d focus attention on the pad material. What pads are you using and have you broken them in? That can have a massive effect on braking performance.

Sounds good. Feel free to send them to me via PM if you like

That sounds good. Any pictures of what you have?

IIRC Disney OK had some 2wd prerunner type stuff in some areas. Rush springs in Jane MO is also a great park and has a little bit of everything. Project is looking good

Do you have the spring and lock ring reinstalled on the shaft? Part #8 in this diagram: https://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/gmtilt.php Edit: just saw the video. Looks like the spring is missing. It compresses that joint to keep it stable.

Ultimately, the optics are what make the difference and tend to be a “get what you pay for” equation. Halogen bulbs (with proper power) can look great if you get the right optics. IMO, nothing beats a quality true projector. Once you try it, there’s no going back.

You could always just pull the engine

The general spring setup uses fairly thick leaves and are stiff “truck springs”. They work great if that’s what you need them for. You only need about .75” of lift to get you almost level with front 3” springs with just a tiny rake. Use a full length add a leaf and drill the center pin to MJ specs. Works well and gives you a really nice spring rate. You can see how my project sits with that combo in my build thread below.

I’ve never changed an RMS with the engine in the vehicle. I’ve always installed everything with the engine out (typically during a rebuild) and never had one leak. I can see how it would be extra tricky trying to do this with the engine still mounted.

I believe you’re referring to the windshield? If so, the small retaining metal “pins” on the windshield frame can be left in place or removed. The rubber will fit either way. You could also just reinstall your old trim if you wanted. The rubber is not a seal, just a trim piece. The seal itself is made by the urethane.

That’s correct but there are two types of joints, one for driveshafts and one for steering axles. Both have the same cap diameters. The driveshaft ones are spicer/dana part number 5153X. They are all the same for all driveshaft joints