ghetdjc320

I can shed some light on this, the 232 cam itself works great and fits as it should but the springs and retainers are meant for the old 4.2 (258) engines and will not fit the 4.0. Yes the seats could be machined but the actual pad size is incorrect as well. So when purchasing a comp cam, don’t get the complete kit unless you’re running the 4.2 engine. There are various other spring options available. The Mopar performance springs are good but can be pricey. Many have also run the rock auto “sealed power” replacement 4.0 springs with that cam successfully. If you machine shop is up for it, there are several LS springs that are good swap candidates if the seats are machined. There are a few other bolt in springs for 4.0’s now as well but they can get pricey.

Wow, what unexpected news. Condolences to his family. He was a great source of knowledge and insight. I'm thinking a CC honorary 10 out of 10 rank is in order.

Use these ones: https://www.otrattw.net/Contura-V-Series-Contura-X-and-XI/ Contura X with independent switch logo illumination. Fits perfectly and has period correct styling. They also offer connector kits. Wiring diagrams are always included with each order. I opted to have the top symbol illuminated with the dash lights and the bottom illuminate only when activated.

I’m leaning toward something in the crank sensor system, CPS, dirty wiring, something messed up with the tone ring on the flywheel, etc.

If it was running good with the old injectors and that’s all that was changed. You could switch them back. Takes just a few minutes. Also entirely possible your fuel pump is done for

90% of the time it’s your standard main wear components: fuel pump, coil, spark plugs, fuel filter and an occasional cps. All of these are relatively simple to replace and cause all sorts of issues that may seem like they could somehow be something else. I think you’re onto something in the fuel system with the test you performed earlier. I’d suggest: put away the volt/ohm meter and hunt the fuel issue . edit: Just re read all of the posts and would like to see what your fuel rail looks like. Can you take a picture? Also you didn’t change the pump when you had it out?

Curious to know, are you running Renix on that stroker or Mopar for efi? Did you replace the flywheel along with the clutch? There are two flywheel styles is the reason I ask. Renix uses a different reluctor than Mopar.

I’ve seen it in almost every Dana axle I’ve worked on.

Those are notch flares. They were just sitting there for mock up. They’ll be installed later

BDS 114202. It’s a complete kit including center pin. Cheap too. They say it’s actually good for a 2.5” lift but not sure. Worked perfect with the 3” fronts though

There are a few that are studs (6 iirc). The studs can be removed in favor of bolts if needed but the studs do make it easier to line up the bed. The oem bolts though are M10 1.5 30mm long with a captured washer and a pilot-tip style point.

My MJ project is sitting on 3” front BDS coils and their full length MJ add a leaf. If you like the stance it would probably work for you. This was a 4 leaf 4wd pack before adding the 5th leaf. I had to redrill the center pin to match the MJ pack but that was no big deal. When I had my springs apart, I took the time to mix and match the left and right leaves to get me equal free arch on both. Driving with no passenger and a full tank had the left side sitting a bit lower than the right. Now they are back to even. It still has a slight rake but it’s down to about an inch. Last time a measured a factory rake it was about 2.25-2.5” Wish I had some better full stance shots but it’s exactly the stance I was looking for.

Indeed they can. They are actually a clever design imo. I think too many people start off with a standard 6 point hex socket and round off the bolt heads. Kind of like 12 point heads, with the accompanying 12 point socket, you can really apply some torque to them. Far more than the standard 6 point. There’s a reason high torque components tend to use spline drives.

I deal with them frequently in the marine world in their stainless or galvanized forms. The heads tend to be undersized relative to the bolt thread size but normally that is due to space constraints. One can usually fit a smaller wrench/socket than would otherwise be allowed for the size of the threads. Not sure if that’s what Jeep had in mind but I would imagine so as they were such penny pinchers and those bolts cost a few extra cents. I can’t say I’ve come across a ratcheting e-torx wrench that isn’t some sort of “universal” box style wrench. Would probably work well, though I’m guessing the actual ratcheting mechanism would make the head to big to fit the space around the bolt head

I have to ask, did you have an external torx wrench or socket you used? Those e torx head bolts can be handy as they have good contact area for the appropriate socket and tend to not slip. If you use a regular socket on them you will have problems as you have so little contact area.

Check the fan relay while you’re at it. Could just be the relay starting to go bad.

I’m wondering if your pump may be in direct contact with the tank . I’ve never heard one be that loud.

I believe it was around 93 when the XJ went to a turbine pump. Not a straight swap for an MJ though. You could run an XJ style tank with no baffle and an XJ sending unit but fuel gauge resistance may be an issue. Alternatively, you can modify your existing sending unit and install a newer universal style turbine pump.

Run on a full tank . Rotary vane pumps are always a bit noisy. The ballast resistor was supposed to quiet it down a bit but the best upgrade is going to a turbine style pump. Much quieter and more efficient. Unfortunately the swap can be a bit involved since the discontinuing of the Bosch early XJ pump

I bet they are just a 3rd party retailer that is drop shipping items from other companies. If I’m dealing with an unknown retailer and don’t know how the experience will be, I make sure to use a good card that has purchase protection so they cover any return/restocking fees if needed. Good to know they will at least ship the order though.

My bad, the auto tranny shield is a 2 piece

That piece should come out in two parts.

Get yourself a set of AC gauges and check the low pressure side. It could be you have a bad pressure switch but verify the pressure first

That’s awesome! We lived in Oaxaca for many years down in Huatulco and Puerto Angel. I’ve done that drive many times up and down the MX200 and also back towards Puebla. Stunning drives for sure through the Sierra Madre mountains. Enjoy your trek!

Interesting. I’d also check vacuum leak. Is it possible these injectors are providing too much fuel? Or… I’m wondering if the fuel pump is on the fritz and can’t keep up with the demand for all 6 injectors??