ghetdjc320

Removing the taper from the throttle body is also counterproductive to your low end torque. The taper increases velocity.

My bad, I thought you were looking for ball joints. For u joints, one of those parts should be the grease-able and the other is not. Non greaseable should be a touch stronger. I normally opt for Moog on u joints.

706944X is what you need.

The last SKF I bought about 2 years ago were USA made. The Timkens I had bought were not. I tend to get either US or Japan made bearings for their fit and quality

Just a thought, but check the wiring to your TCM and make sure it isn’t loosing power.

There have been a couple of reported issues with the blower resistor's compatibility with the pre-HO fan switch on the control deck. Worst case scenario would involve a blower resistor swap which is very easy.

You can send them to a wheel shop in Dallas that can refinish them. Can’t remember cost but not too bad.

I used mdf as a replacement for the carpeted panel. Not sure if anything would fit behind it

Does that amplifier accept speaker level inputs? If it needs line level, you will have to get a line level converter

Medium density fiber board. It’s what they make most speaker cabinets with. Denser than particle board and very smooth. Can be found at pretty much any lumber yard. I would an 3/4”. When you say “fit behind the panel” are you talking about the original panel? I didn’t have one when I got my truck so I just used the mdf board as a replacement for the original.

It will, I ran a very similar setup before. The trick is to really secure and insulate that panel. That back cab bulkhead can't handle sub vibrations very well. Expect to find a great number of rattles if mounted there along with lackluster performance. Thicker MDF board will do better.

Looking good so far! It's all the little trips to the hardware store and local auto parts that add up quick.

Oh my

Wondering why they cut it in the first place??

Boxy’s setup is a nice design. But I will say, if you want a nice stereo “sound stage”, ditch the rear speakers, run larger components in the front doors along with plenty of sound deadening. Morels are a nice choice but there are plenty of other good options. A class A/B amp as well for the door speakers. A little powered sub at least will help round things out. @Gjeep highly recommended this little sub: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSWX010/Pioneer-TS-WX010A.html I’d use the b pillar location for some small subs but heavy fab work would be involved. Quieting down the cab will be time well spent even riding with the windows down.

Here are some pics on Russ’ work. Far exceeds the finishing standards that most of the big shops are putting out. He’s got all the parts you need as well and his prices can’t be beat. Bishop Buehl Racing is his company name. He puts together diy packages or turn key engines. Almost pulled the trigger with this recent build but decided against another straight 6 build.

Sounds like the torque converter is starved or failing

I know there are many naysayers, but a Russ potenger ported Edelbrock head and a 99+ intake would be my recommendation. Keep a tight quench and bump up the compression and you’ll have an efficient 4.0 http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/tech_specs.html

I’m running JT/JL wheels. I’m running a 19mm rear adapter and 27mm front adapter as well to adjust my track width the way I needed it. The JT/JL wheels use a 14mm stud with a different lug nut base. The wheel adapters I had custom made from BORA off-road include the right stud size so I can run stock JT/JL lug nuts.

That’s right, tan wire has a clip for the oem fuse box. There is a black ground wire also heavy gauge in the harness there. Hard to see it with the background though.

I also have all 96 wiring. There is no relay for the windows. There is a thicker gauge tan wire that needs power from the fuse box and also a ground line. That will run all the window power. There is a connector on the drivers side of the cross-cab harness that is for the door locks relays. You’ll have to make your own simple relay setup. I’ll try to snap some pics of it tomorrow.

Many different turbine pumps can be adapted with minimal mods to the stock fuels sender. I’m running a deatschwerks dw200 pump on mine.

Any chance you have access to a water jet cutter? That would probably work well too.

Have you tried reassembling the hvac to the firewall yet? 1" was too thick for the cowl opening for mine so i ended up with 3/4. "Minicell L200" foam is what I used and seemed to be identical to the oem stuff. Made some nice kneeling pads for working under the truck with the extra. That stuff also cuts excellent with an electric turkey carver.

I’ve reached out to my contact at Alcan for follow up. Hopefully he can chime in with some support and some good options for those needing some good quality alternatives to the RC or GS spring options. BTW, I have no connection to Alcan other than being a very satisfied customer. I’ve run their springs for many years on my YJ and beat them to hell and back with zero issues. They were the best riding, and highest quality springs I’ve ever owned.