ghetdjc320

ABS starts to deform around 100c. I’m betting it’s a poly blend of some sort. There are a few home tests you can do to find out what type of plastic it is. Most plastic epoxy’s should work fine with some minor prep. Heck, you could just use some aluminum duct tape.

On my waggy 44 I ran a ruff stuff 3/4 heim kit. Worked well at the time but I’m not really a fan of heim steering anymore. I’d go 1 ton tre’s and build a system around that. The heim joints have no good way of greasing them and purging out the crap that will inevitably get in them. Plus, even though you may precisely drill a hole for a bolt, it will always have more play than a tapered fitting. But DOM linkage is nice to have.

It’s not ABS. Pretty sure it was Polyethylene when I did some plastic welding on my old unit. I used PE filler rods

Bought direct from Joying. Took maybe 7 days to arrive. Definitely a quality unit. I painted the screen mounting brackets black as well so you don’t see the plastic color from the side. Very nice unit with plenty of features. Plus I really love having a volume knob. Simple feature but hard to find anymore.

For my I’d go with a new one. Completely different look of course. When I had my YJ I was planning to fabricate a sheet metal dash. It’s not too terribly complicated

So after a super deep dive into this (and having tried various double din methods) I settled on the Joying 6.2. It’s the same model @Limeyjeeper is running. Great unit. Android based, and works with both e wireless CarPlay and android auto. Built in DSP, and the only touchscreen head unit that fits in the stock radio location without covering the hvac controls or interfering with the dash. It’s not an economy line unit either.

Measure out the dash width from a YJ and see what fits. Interestingly enough, a TJ dash may actually be a closer match as well. I’d go the opposite direction, I’d look at installing a gladiator dash. For an “old jeep” kind of look though, you could just fabricate a flat steel dash

So does that use something like a J bolt similar to the gas tank?

I’ve been working on documenting all the different connectors and taking detailed pictures from XJ/MJ/YJ & TJs. Some are starting to become familiar like the apex series. Been trying to compile a master source with the actual connector manufacturer and model numbers since most of our rigs are going to need replacements or repairs sooner or later. It seems that, once Chrysler was finally able to get away from AMC leftovers, they mostly moved to the Apex 2.8 connectors for the chassis. AMC was such a mixed bag of parts. Many Delphi/Aptive 150 series but there are so many more thrown in the mix. Seems like they would source a component from a company and would also have that supplier source the connector for them instead of specc’ing a specific connection type. Probably just further proof that AMC was going under. And they were getting suppliers from all over the globe.

Looked up the picture online. If this is the fan plug you have then here is the link to the connector and pins you need: https://www.customconnectorkits.com/products/54200206 Or if you want it to be a fully assembled pigtail: https://www.customconnectorkits.com/products/10757672-pt?Wire+Gauge=12+AWG Go with at least 14awg but 12 if you can. I’ve found most 97+ XJ body/lamp harness connectors are Apex 2.8 series

Any pictures of what they sent you?

Can you take a picture of what you need?

On all the above except for the “call Hesco” part. The Mopar springs have been a go to for strikers for some time now. As for cam wear, the comp cam lines are just plain narrow. You can run the sealed power/melting springs and be good with the 232. The Mopar purple cam referenced above is a great setup as the lobes are full width as stock. Just remember, keep you oil zinc content high, especially during break in. You can either use additive or break in style oil.

I remember when I was a kid my dad would buy me those built it yourself radio kits from radio shack. They were a ton of fun and really helped me learn a lot about general 12c electronics. I remember I ended up building a pretty powerful AM radio

Depends on the year. If you can use the flange it’s a stronger design than the yoke. But on my 97 I swapped on a standard D44 1310 yoke. The 98+ would use the JK yoke in whatever seize you need

Thanks Pete, fitting title for sure

I can shed some light on this, the 232 cam itself works great and fits as it should but the springs and retainers are meant for the old 4.2 (258) engines and will not fit the 4.0. Yes the seats could be machined but the actual pad size is incorrect as well. So when purchasing a comp cam, don’t get the complete kit unless you’re running the 4.2 engine. There are various other spring options available. The Mopar performance springs are good but can be pricey. Many have also run the rock auto “sealed power” replacement 4.0 springs with that cam successfully. If you machine shop is up for it, there are several LS springs that are good swap candidates if the seats are machined. There are a few other bolt in springs for 4.0’s now as well but they can get pricey.

Wow, what unexpected news. Condolences to his family. He was a great source of knowledge and insight. I'm thinking a CC honorary 10 out of 10 rank is in order.

Use these ones: https://www.otrattw.net/Contura-V-Series-Contura-X-and-XI/ Contura X with independent switch logo illumination. Fits perfectly and has period correct styling. They also offer connector kits. Wiring diagrams are always included with each order. I opted to have the top symbol illuminated with the dash lights and the bottom illuminate only when activated.

I’m leaning toward something in the crank sensor system, CPS, dirty wiring, something messed up with the tone ring on the flywheel, etc.

If it was running good with the old injectors and that’s all that was changed. You could switch them back. Takes just a few minutes. Also entirely possible your fuel pump is done for

90% of the time it’s your standard main wear components: fuel pump, coil, spark plugs, fuel filter and an occasional cps. All of these are relatively simple to replace and cause all sorts of issues that may seem like they could somehow be something else. I think you’re onto something in the fuel system with the test you performed earlier. I’d suggest: put away the volt/ohm meter and hunt the fuel issue . edit: Just re read all of the posts and would like to see what your fuel rail looks like. Can you take a picture? Also you didn’t change the pump when you had it out?

Curious to know, are you running Renix on that stroker or Mopar for efi? Did you replace the flywheel along with the clutch? There are two flywheel styles is the reason I ask. Renix uses a different reluctor than Mopar.

I’ve seen it in almost every Dana axle I’ve worked on.

Those are notch flares. They were just sitting there for mock up. They’ll be installed later