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I’d second the Klipsch if you don’t have an iPhone. Sound quality is relatively poor on every set of wireless earbuds I’ve ever heard. Far too much compression and digital equalization for my tastes. However, earbuds aren’t really about true sound quality, they are a convenience piece. So find what best fits your ears nice and snug without any pain. Something with long battery life and music controls built into the them would be great.

All the links above are for the same product. The tj boot works well. My trans cover isn’t standard but here is how it looks on mine. I used some black rtv for additional sealing along with stainless metal roofing screws that come with the captured sealing washers.

Notice the oscilloscope readings below. Blue line is “cam”, orange pulses are crank. This is on an HO though. I’ve always referred to “sync generators” as cam sensors since the cam directly drives this sensor. This allows for sequential vs un-timed batch firing.

WOW, those look horrible. Yeah, just grab them from TW. You may also need a longer center pin.

Just as a quick note: I harvested all the connectors from my stock 90 dash, chasis and engine harness. I have them all bagged and will take pictures of them all in detail at some point and add information regarding each one along with the source hopefully.

Did this all start when you swapped injectors or were you experiencing these issues before the swap? Cam and/or crank sensors come to mind. Instead of grouping all issues together and trying to find a single source, try isolating one of them and tracking it down. For instance, with a bad idle, you could try disconnecting injectors one at a time and see if you notice a difference.

I also have a 5.5mm socket but what size are the actual threads?

Out of curiosity, do you know what your PS fluid temps are now? Keep in mind that the radiator tranny “cooler” is more of a temp “regulator” bringing up the temps during cold days by transferring engine coolant heat. Most oem towing package rigs use an additional external “cooler” plumbed in series. So are you wanting to warm up your fluid for cold weather or actually cool down a system that is currently overheating? The fuel rail fitting you used may not stand up to those higher temps. Switching to AN or JIC fittings would be a much better alternative. This guy has a nice write up on the sizes and part numbers needed for the swap: https://there4.io/2019/07/17/Jeep-XJ-Transmission-Cooler-Line-Ugrade/

The issues I see is with that thick black gasket on the lock cylinder. The stock unit has a super thin plastic gasket (only ever seen these on YJ’s) or no gasket (none of my MJ’s ir XJ’s had a gasket for the lock cylinder)

With the time money and skills, almost anything will fit. Do you have a source for one? If you’re looking at diesel, a cummins 2.8 is another viable swap candidate.

Out of curiosity, do you not have an MJ you can test them on?

I’m a bit partial to TJ’s also. I prefer the way they drive over the 2dr JK’s. We had a gladiator for about a month as a rental also and that was a very nice ride. This is just comparing all rigs stock.

The TJ is like a cross between a YJ and an XJ. This is our second TJ. Nice aftermarket support and just the right combinations of creature comforts and ruggedness. Like XJ’s though, it’s tough to find good ones that haven’t been beat on.

I’m about to get back to this TJ and have a few minor projects planned. Contemplating a repaint this year. Possibly going with a monstaliner for it but still undecided. Also contemplating gearing down to 4.10’s. This has the old TF999 tranny which is utterly bulletproof but is only a 3 speed. Deeper gears are a must especially for towing. This 4.0 runs like a top but feels anemic with the current 3.07’s. Bringing back with me some gear changing tools. Will update soon. Project “Tomahawk” is back under cover for now and still awaiting its grand reveal

Looking good. That’s exactly what you want. Let that por15 find its way down there just like the water does

Yep that’s the one. For the most part, the luk rep-set is a good option. Not too grabby either

There’s also the Mopar P4529229 cam.

I had no issues with my comp cams. The 235 was my personal favorite. Still had a plenty smooth idle but more mid range torque. Rotella is good stuff but you can also add some zinc additive. If you ever find some stuff called “prolong” engine oil treatment, that stuff is a great additive for flat tappet cams. It’s typically a diesel engine oil additive.

Just going to do a massive picture dump for now. Special thanks to @Comanche SS for helping me out today! Going back under cover until next time.

I’d double check the valve springs being used. The 926 springs are for the old 4.2 heads iirc. It may be correct but worth checking. I’ve run both the 232 and 235 cams. Both ran very well. I didn’t like the lobes on the comp cam being so narrow. Use proper high zinc oil.

IACV

I end up watching some car shows like B*tchin Rides or Texas Metal. One project at a time. I like working in segments also and don’t move past that segment until I get it just the way I want it.