ghetdjc320

The TJ is like a cross between a YJ and an XJ. This is our second TJ. Nice aftermarket support and just the right combinations of creature comforts and ruggedness. Like XJ’s though, it’s tough to find good ones that haven’t been beat on.

I’m about to get back to this TJ and have a few minor projects planned. Contemplating a repaint this year. Possibly going with a monstaliner for it but still undecided. Also contemplating gearing down to 4.10’s. This has the old TF999 tranny which is utterly bulletproof but is only a 3 speed. Deeper gears are a must especially for towing. This 4.0 runs like a top but feels anemic with the current 3.07’s. Bringing back with me some gear changing tools. Will update soon. Project “Tomahawk” is back under cover for now and still awaiting its grand reveal

Looking good. That’s exactly what you want. Let that por15 find its way down there just like the water does

Yep that’s the one. For the most part, the luk rep-set is a good option. Not too grabby either

There’s also the Mopar P4529229 cam.

I had no issues with my comp cams. The 235 was my personal favorite. Still had a plenty smooth idle but more mid range torque. Rotella is good stuff but you can also add some zinc additive. If you ever find some stuff called “prolong” engine oil treatment, that stuff is a great additive for flat tappet cams. It’s typically a diesel engine oil additive.

Just going to do a massive picture dump for now. Special thanks to @Comanche SS for helping me out today! Going back under cover until next time.

I’d double check the valve springs being used. The 926 springs are for the old 4.2 heads iirc. It may be correct but worth checking. I’ve run both the 232 and 235 cams. Both ran very well. I didn’t like the lobes on the comp cam being so narrow. Use proper high zinc oil.

IACV

I end up watching some car shows like B*tchin Rides or Texas Metal. One project at a time. I like working in segments also and don’t move past that segment until I get it just the way I want it.

Iacv could also be an issue. A good TB cleanup may help.

Is this not the original driveshaft/axle combo? Can you shoot a picture of how the wheel sets on the wheel well?

Tomwoods carries the shims as well. Sound like around 3-4* should work well.

It’s normal to have it drop pressure in rotary vane pumps. It shouldn’t be a super fast bleed and should always hold some residual pressure. You can add a check valve inline to help keep your system primed.

Thus the reason for conformal coating

Hopefully I can add some limited info to this. Teraflex does not manufacture their own brake rotors so they aren’t going to be something unique. Most of these aftermarket kit manufacturers are just sourcing pieces that can be swapped into a kit though some will have a product private labeled. There are many resellers that follow this method. As for wheel fitment, you may need to clearance the caliper brackets a bit and/or run a small spacer. Spacing the rear also looks good since the truck is wider at the rear. As to the e brake lever, don’t sweat it. There are plenty of options here from an adapter clevis to using Explorer e brake cables. All that being said, I wouldn’t necessarily opt for the teraflex kit unless it was a great deal. There are lower priced kits and plenty of used options out there. And, as has been said, it could be that your stock drums adequately fit your needs from a braking perspective.

Grab a gallon of fluid film black and coat things. Pretty much the entire underside save for exhaust and brakes can be coated. Works well for shipping and will typically last for last for several months to a year. The shipping containers themselves tend to be rust buckets inside. Good idea to opt for a cover as rust from the inside roof ceiling of the shipping container tends to fall on the truck during transport. As to prepping a vehicle for lots of salt and corrosion, checkout some of the work I did on my latest build. I have to deal with 24/7 salt spray.

So is this going to be a 3 link?

The link I sent above provides the kit. Again, it’s only for the newer style knuckles which I’m 95% certain you have at this point

The connections are reminiscent of the ford epoxy block connectors. There are similar Dorman connectors but the pin cavities are not the same

Indeed, I’m still at a loss for who manufactured the window and door lock switches. Indak did the dash switches and hvac deck, Mitsubishi radio, VDO gauges and I believe perhaps the mirror switch. Power mirrors I’m also not sure who manufactured those.

X2 on the fitting sizes. I’ve used adapters but you can also just grab the fittings and make your own master to prop valve lines and use the copper nickel material.