ghetdjc320

BDS 114202. It’s a complete kit including center pin. Cheap too. They say it’s actually good for a 2.5” lift but not sure. Worked perfect with the 3” fronts though

There are a few that are studs (6 iirc). The studs can be removed in favor of bolts if needed but the studs do make it easier to line up the bed. The oem bolts though are M10 1.5 30mm long with a captured washer and a pilot-tip style point.

My MJ project is sitting on 3” front BDS coils and their full length MJ add a leaf. If you like the stance it would probably work for you. This was a 4 leaf 4wd pack before adding the 5th leaf. I had to redrill the center pin to match the MJ pack but that was no big deal. When I had my springs apart, I took the time to mix and match the left and right leaves to get me equal free arch on both. Driving with no passenger and a full tank had the left side sitting a bit lower than the right. Now they are back to even. It still has a slight rake but it’s down to about an inch. Last time a measured a factory rake it was about 2.25-2.5” Wish I had some better full stance shots but it’s exactly the stance I was looking for.

Indeed they can. They are actually a clever design imo. I think too many people start off with a standard 6 point hex socket and round off the bolt heads. Kind of like 12 point heads, with the accompanying 12 point socket, you can really apply some torque to them. Far more than the standard 6 point. There’s a reason high torque components tend to use spline drives.

I deal with them frequently in the marine world in their stainless or galvanized forms. The heads tend to be undersized relative to the bolt thread size but normally that is due to space constraints. One can usually fit a smaller wrench/socket than would otherwise be allowed for the size of the threads. Not sure if that’s what Jeep had in mind but I would imagine so as they were such penny pinchers and those bolts cost a few extra cents. I can’t say I’ve come across a ratcheting e-torx wrench that isn’t some sort of “universal” box style wrench. Would probably work well, though I’m guessing the actual ratcheting mechanism would make the head to big to fit the space around the bolt head

I have to ask, did you have an external torx wrench or socket you used? Those e torx head bolts can be handy as they have good contact area for the appropriate socket and tend to not slip. If you use a regular socket on them you will have problems as you have so little contact area.

Check the fan relay while you’re at it. Could just be the relay starting to go bad.

I’m wondering if your pump may be in direct contact with the tank . I’ve never heard one be that loud.

I believe it was around 93 when the XJ went to a turbine pump. Not a straight swap for an MJ though. You could run an XJ style tank with no baffle and an XJ sending unit but fuel gauge resistance may be an issue. Alternatively, you can modify your existing sending unit and install a newer universal style turbine pump.

Run on a full tank . Rotary vane pumps are always a bit noisy. The ballast resistor was supposed to quiet it down a bit but the best upgrade is going to a turbine style pump. Much quieter and more efficient. Unfortunately the swap can be a bit involved since the discontinuing of the Bosch early XJ pump

I bet they are just a 3rd party retailer that is drop shipping items from other companies. If I’m dealing with an unknown retailer and don’t know how the experience will be, I make sure to use a good card that has purchase protection so they cover any return/restocking fees if needed. Good to know they will at least ship the order though.

My bad, the auto tranny shield is a 2 piece

That piece should come out in two parts.

Get yourself a set of AC gauges and check the low pressure side. It could be you have a bad pressure switch but verify the pressure first

That’s awesome! We lived in Oaxaca for many years down in Huatulco and Puerto Angel. I’ve done that drive many times up and down the MX200 and also back towards Puebla. Stunning drives for sure through the Sierra Madre mountains. Enjoy your trek!

Interesting. I’d also check vacuum leak. Is it possible these injectors are providing too much fuel? Or… I’m wondering if the fuel pump is on the fritz and can’t keep up with the demand for all 6 injectors??

I harvested all the connectors from my 90’ engine, dash and chasis harness. I have them all bagged as pigtails back stateside. Next year I’ll take detailed pictures of each one so they can all be ID’d and hopefully post reference links for the manufacturers

Dug up these pictures of the gasket on my MJ. Perhaps they may be useful for reference

Looking good! What about using two pieces of foam and bonding them?

I couldn’t bring myself to run those horrible looking airbag steering wheels when I’d considered the swap previously but now I see they can be swapped with a nicer wheel. I may end up just going doors and center console perhaps?? Not sure yet. I’m thinking though that if I do go this route, I’ll keep my painless wiring setup and integrate the necessary connection with the newer dash. Probably swap the cluster to the Dakota digital setup so I can delete the ecu for the gauges. Would be neat if a template could be made that one could just overlay on the firewall for this swap. I think the pictures referenced above is going to be super helpful for sure. If I keep my painless wiring setup, I’m assuming I may be able to do fewer firewall mods as I wouldn’t be using the XJ wiring aside from some of the connectors.

This was another neat option o had looked at for my build: https://www.chasebays.com/collections/universal-chase-bays/products/chase-bays-windshield-washer-reservoir-intercooler-sprayer

Do you think it’s easier to patch in the necessary sections or just transplant a big chunk of the firewall? I always wanted to go that route on mine and swap the 97+ dash, doors and center console (maybe I still should???). I do dislike the look of the later style door mirrors though

I’ve ran all 3 sets of available valving on the 5125’s for the rear. I never found one that was decent for the MJ. As for rear shock selection, measure the compressed and full droop lengths along with the static ride height. Typically 60% up travel from static height is ideal though it can vary depending on the application. If I wasn’t running a custom valved shock specific to the truck, then I’d probably go for with some rancho 5000 series or some oem spec shocks from Monroe or similar. The 5125’s can be had in decent valving for the front (255/70) but they can’t react correctly to the light weight rear imo, so traveling down hill on a windy, rough road feels like the tail end will not stay planted unless the bed has some substantial weight.

6=8

How is that radiator/fan setup doing for operating temps?