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ghetdjc320

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Everything posted by ghetdjc320

  1. ghetdjc320
    Iacv could also be an issue. A good TB cleanup may help.
  2. ghetdjc320
    Is this not the original driveshaft/axle combo? Can you shoot a picture of how the wheel sets on the wheel well?
  3. ghetdjc320
    Tomwoods carries the shims as well. Sound like around 3-4* should work well.
  4. ghetdjc320
    It’s normal to have it drop pressure in rotary vane pumps. It shouldn’t be a super fast bleed and should always hold some residual pressure. You can add a check valve inline to help keep your system primed.
  5. ghetdjc320
    Thus the reason for conformal coating
  6. ghetdjc320
    Hopefully I can add some limited info to this. Teraflex does not manufacture their own brake rotors so they aren’t going to be something unique. Most of these aftermarket kit manufacturers are just sourcing pieces that can be swapped into a kit though some will have a product private labeled. There are many resellers that follow this method. As for wheel fitment, you may need to clearance the caliper brackets a bit and/or run a small spacer. Spacing the rear also looks good since the truck is wider at the rear. As to the e brake lever, don’t sweat it. There are plenty of options here from an adapter clevis to using Explorer e brake cables. All that being said, I wouldn’t necessarily opt for the teraflex kit unless it was a great deal. There are lower priced kits and plenty of used options out there. And, as has been said, it could be that your stock drums adequately fit your needs from a braking perspective.
  7. ghetdjc320
    Grab a gallon of fluid film black and coat things. Pretty much the entire underside save for exhaust and brakes can be coated. Works well for shipping and will typically last for last for several months to a year. The shipping containers themselves tend to be rust buckets inside. Good idea to opt for a cover as rust from the inside roof ceiling of the shipping container tends to fall on the truck during transport. As to prepping a vehicle for lots of salt and corrosion, checkout some of the work I did on my latest build. I have to deal with 24/7 salt spray.
  8. ghetdjc320
    So is this going to be a 3 link?
  9. ghetdjc320
    The link I sent above provides the kit. Again, it’s only for the newer style knuckles which I’m 95% certain you have at this point
  10. ghetdjc320
    The connections are reminiscent of the ford epoxy block connectors. There are similar Dorman connectors but the pin cavities are not the same
  11. ghetdjc320
    Indeed, I’m still at a loss for who manufactured the window and door lock switches. Indak did the dash switches and hvac deck, Mitsubishi radio, VDO gauges and I believe perhaps the mirror switch. Power mirrors I’m also not sure who manufactured those.
  12. ghetdjc320
    X2 on the fitting sizes. I’ve used adapters but you can also just grab the fittings and make your own master to prop valve lines and use the copper nickel material.
  13. ghetdjc320
    Negative, that was a Yazaki connector. I’ve found several Japanese connectors as well. Building a custom harness using a painless GM column universal harness has revealed quite an assortment of different connectors. Several electrical components were made in Japan so I supposed that makes sense.
  14. ghetdjc320
    Says I have to have a login to view the conversation. Mind posting up the info?
  15. ghetdjc320
    Nice!
  16. ghetdjc320
    Rogers Welding Supply (479) 621-8232 Much better to deal with than airgas.
  17. ghetdjc320
  18. ghetdjc320
    Those are slide pins. If your calipers bolt into the knuckles, then you have the new style knuckles. The newer knuckles also have cast in “wings” that the support the pads. Take a pic and post it and we can confirm. That way we can provide input on how to repair.
  19. ghetdjc320
    So on 89 and earlier knuckles, the knuckles do not have any threaded hole for caliper mounting. The caliper is the only threaded part. In 90+ they switched the knuckle and caliper design so the knuckle itself has threaded caliper holes. If you have the later style knuckles and calipers, here is the fix: https://blackmagicbrakes.com/ols/products/knuckle-saver-kit-jeep-tjxj-style-knuckle-repair-2-knuckles If you have the earlier style knuckles, it should not be threaded. The bolt goes through the knuckle and into the caliper threaded hole.
  20. ghetdjc320
    That’s a super short up travel there. Rotating the pinion may help to lengthen the distance between the tcase and pinion.
  21. ghetdjc320
    Do you have a front driveshaft? If so, try removing it and driving around first. As for a shim, don’t point the pinion into the ground. No need to go below parallel. You can keep the pinion at 0 or a degree or two up with no ill effects. It could just be a gas u joint.
  22. ghetdjc320
    Would it be possible or practical to add some conformal coating to the circuit boards to help with vibration and any moisture/corrosion?
  23. ghetdjc320
    I believe they are very similar to a GM part but not the same. Last time I checked into these, there was no other directly swappable part. Iirc the GM part that is similar does not have the washer selector wiring run through it as the jeep unit does.
  24. ghetdjc320
    This is true . Happened several times searching for “Comanche” parts. Always thought it would be neat to own a Piper Comanche as well. Nice size planes
  25. ghetdjc320
    Excellent fab work
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