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Before going down this path I have to ask, do you have a good size compressor (flowing about 13cfm at 45psi), a sealed garage and or some place to use as a temporary paint booth, an hvlp sprayer with 1.8-1.4 fluid tips, DA sanders, sanding blocks, respirator? There are so many different levels of paint jobs depending on what equipment you have on hand. You can get good results with enough effort but we kind of need to know where you’re at equipment wise to recommend the right process. Otherwise one might spend a lot of coin on good products but without the proper equipment to apply it, you may end up wasting it. As for rusty areas, you do need to get that down to clean bare metal. Once that’s done, use 2 part epoxy primer (available in spray cans from some auto paint suppliers). If you have an hvlp speayer, you can spray the mixed epoxy primer with a 1.8 tip. Spray the epoxy directly to bare metal before doing any filler work. Once filler work is done and you have it all blocked and smooth, spray a reduced 2 part epoxy primer as a sealer to create a uniform color for your base coat. Take your time prepping and masking off all your surfaces. Use actual automotive masking tape and not hardware store home painters tape. I normally start with 120 to 180 and work my way up to 400 for the final sanding pre-primer.

This stuff was about the right consistency for the dash foam: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/v000213391/ To the OP: Looks nice! Never seen one done in bondo before but we used plenty of bondo while making custom sub enclosures so don’t see why it wouldn’t work. Let us know how it holds up.

As i mentioned, it’s difficult to square the seal to the axle shaft and easy to damage it in the process as there is no machined lip on the passenger side of the pumpkin in a cad housing for the seal to ride against. The seals-it and oem single piece seal automatically square themselves. It can still use the same seal surface on the axle shaft but adds a second seal to a smooth clean area of the axle shaft. The reason it’s a pain to get to is because is because you have to drop the carrier. The seals is is just less likely to leak. Here are pictures of the differences between the 3 seals, skf 11800, oem seal for dana 30 single piece and the seals it. The oem design is great as it guides the axle centered into the seal but won’t fit into the cad axle. I wouldn’t use a seals it seal in a one piece axle housing but in cad housings it’s a nice option. Whatever works

Por15 and raptor liner are good combos. Some brishable seam sealer is also your friend on the joints. Just triple check for any possible water leaks before dynamatting. Otherwise the butyl traps the water onto the metal and it’s not a pretty sight

For pinholes in floor boards, once you get rid of any loose rust and scale, clean it up thoroughly and degrease. Place some masking tape on the back side of the pinholes (tape will go underneath the truck on the floor board), then apply por15 black and, if you have larger pin holes or pitted metal and want a nice finish, apply por15 silver which has lead filler in it. I’ve used plenty of 3m panel bond. For the most part all I use are 3m, Evercoat and Akzo Nobel products. 3m for all the sealants, adhesives and pillar foams. The absolute best thing you can do for your floor pans is use 3m panel bond AND spot weld in strategic areas. As with anything proper prep is key. Read the TDS and follow it to the letter. I would recommend panel bonding the whole perimeter (overlap the existing floor by 3/4” all the way around) and the subframe making sure every area is clamped as mentioned above. I’d also panel bond the floor bracing in the cab but I’d also spot weld the subframe inner cab floor bracing. The adhesive is top notch but the spot welds will increase the rigidity of the seams since a single spot weld will essentially fuse layers of metal together and has more shear straight compared to just panel bonding. Many cars today use panel bonding and it works excellent but they typically will bead roll their seems for rigidity before applying the adhesive if spot welds are not involved. Panel bond is a great way to create water tight structural bonds, spot welding makes it even better

Yes it does, though technically it can be installed anywhere along the tube as it only relies on the ID of the tube and OD of the axle shaft. It’s a 2 minute install and they never leak. The traditional seal is such a pain to get to if it leaks.

That is cringe worthy, hoping he makes a full recovery

The plate in the door is held in with some metal tabs. You can bend the tabs open typically by hand and remove that piece for a bench repair.

I will say, every one of those that I’ve opened had a little metal “diaphragm” gasket looking thing near the base that clogs rather easily.

Only two reliable options as mentioned above is get a decent junkyard engine or rebuild one yourself. If I was buying a stroker engine though, I would take a closer look at newcomer racing engines

A seal can be installed carefully in that area. Some even install two. There’s not an issue really with the seal moving down the tube as it press fits into it but it can be a challenge to get it perfectly square and set it correctly without damaging it. As for outing a seal further down the tube, the axle shaft itself isn’t machined smooth in that area and can tear up a seal. There is no outer seal on a dana 30 front axle. Some install tube seals near the end but it has been proven many times now that they will do nothing to prevent oil from leaking if used an oil seals. Not to mention, the diff just wasn’t designed to slosh volumes of oil down those tubes like most rear axles are. Plus there is a bit of axle shaft deflection when turning near the end of the tube which would ruin a traditional oil seal. There is a perfect solution for this situation though. Seals-it economy axle tube seals. They fit the ID of the tube and the OD of the axle shaft. They are a double lipped seal and work great. Takes all of 2 minutes to install and doesn’t require any machined surface as it squeezes into the tube itself. Automatically squares itself by design

Set aside a good budget for getting a v8 into an XJ/MJ. The cost of the engine itself is almost inconsequential compared to all the other parts you need. That being said, there are plenty of non LS engine swaps in the epic tech. But yes, most will be LS as they are a more viable swap candidate for most builds.

Have you tried running some seafoam through the oil?

And I would be buying the LJ

Timken has been the gold standard for many years, it’s maybe the past 3 that’s it’s been sporadic

If you want to do a full rebuilt these are really good kits: https://www.revolutiongear.com/product/dana_35_master_rebuild_kit_revolution_gear But you may be able to just do a carrier bearing swap. On the D35, the shims should be under the bearings which is a bit easier to work with. Anymore, I’ve been going with Koyo bearings. They are made in Japan and the quality have been consistent. Timken and National have been all over the place in terms of quality. Koyo tends to be just a few bucks cheaper but I’d actually put their quality over that of recent batches of Timkens I’ve seen.

Gotcha, makes sense. Any shims under the passenger side carrier bearing?

They’re great headliners, just take it out of the box and let it rest for a day or two before install to regain its shape

Yes the rebuild kits are the same. Just where exactly are you seeing the play? If the pinion is held to prevent movement and the wheels are off the ground, there should be some play if you rotate the ring gear in each direction, that’s your backlash and is set by shimming the carrier towards the pinion. Or are you referring to the spider gears inside the carrier?

Those are roll over style crimps. Grab that painless 70900 tool. Decent tool for the price and will take care of those for you. https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/70900

Yep that should work

Are you referring to the connections in the power distribution center by the radiator overflow bottle? If so, most of those are a roll over style crimper. I bought a ratcheting crimper with interchangeable dies but they are pricey. If it’s just a small job, the Painless 70900 crimper works well enough. There are other members here though that can probably suggest better options. Can you post of picture of the connector you’re trying to crimp to verify the type needed?

If the test above checks out, try checking the bulb sockets, and use new bulbs even if they look good.

If the 96 D30 is from an XJ it will fit. Just keep in mind that your front driveshaft will now be spinning constantly due to the lack of an axle disconnect. That’s typically not an issue but may reveal an unbalanced front driveshaft and or a bad transfer case front output bearing.

First off, it’s CR Laurence . I have two of the sms headliners. The first one was in an original rear slider and latter a CR Laurence dual pane slider. The new one is also on a dual pane CR Laurence. The fit is great. First headliner was from 2017 and the second was just this last year. I can’t see any reason to adjust the headliner as it fits factory and aftermarket windows just fine imo.