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It’s also possible that you’re leaking from failed seam sealer or a rusted body seam. There is a vertical body seam under each lower corner of the rear window that will likely be hiding a good deal of rust if the window has been leaking. Personally, I haven’t seen the urtheane itself fail but rather the surface that the urethane adheres to.

If you’re running HO fuel injection, you will eventually start to have it dying when coming to a stop if your vss isn’t sending a signal to the ecu.

Doesn’t sound cheap but it does sound fun

The fork moves on a single rail. How would you propose splitting that into two and what would be the purpose of that?

Or if you want some of the best: https://www.recaro-automotive.com/us/comfort/recaro-orthoped

If there is someplace you can try to sit in them that will make all the difference

PRP seats are another good option. I’m running the trailcats but there are also the Moab’s which don’t have the harness pass through. Many who run the trailcat style seats also just use oem seat belts. The trailcat is a nice fit and finish in a Comanche imo. The xrs are super comfortable also but a bit bulky for the cab of a small truck.

Same situation here. In my 91 they only worked with the headlight on and in low beam. Same goes for my TJ with factory fogs

It would just be going to Arkansas actually. Will be back there working on my project for a bit. I could use the fenders, header and grill, and maybe the washer bottle as well along with whatever brackets accompany them

Color doesn’t matter. Any chance you have the fenders also?

Good to know. I wasn’t planning to install it with the nutserts but was going to panel bond and weld it on. I do have the heavy duty nutsert tool though from doing corner armor on my YJ. Was going to see if I can order a set and forgo the “Ares” logo if possible.

Still looking if anyone has anything available lmk

I used to run 6” of lift in front and soa rear. Could easily clear 35’s but ran metric 33’s mostly. I’ve always wanted to do a true LCG MJ build. Not something hacked to pieces but something that looks like it could have been factory. I think tire selection will be crucial as a typical 35x12.5 would be an exceptionally tight fit for an LCG setup. Will be updating my build thread with details of what I was able to make work to get it just right

I’m thinking somewhere along the lines of a 285/75/17’s which are about a true 34x11.5

I did see that picture. Not sure what size tires those are but I’d guess in the 35ish range. That’s JCR’s rig before they built it up iirc. Looks to me like there’s about 3-4” of uptravel left there. I’d like to get 5-6” of uptravel ideally. I’m going for it. Going to grab those notch flares and some 4.56 gears. Don’t want to overgear too much for that LS. Planning to run 17’s so there are a lot of incremental tire size options between 33.5-35” to fit

Well I guess I’ll be the guinea pig

If you can afford the down time, checkout Marlin Crawler for a rebuild. They are the only ones out there actually upgrading the ax15 if requested.

Looking for some input on my latest build. I’m running the 3” BDS lift. Seriously considering running Notch M Max flares and 35’s. Anyone else have a similar setup for reference? Will be running aftermarket wheels with appropriate backspacing, bump stops, gearing, brakes, steering etc.

The radiator tranny ports also help bring up the fluid temps for the tranny. More like a temp regulator than a cooler. The PS system can benefit from a cooler but it should be an external unit. An external cooler also adds fluid capacity as mentioned above.

I’ve run psc, redhead, Durango and stock boxes. For 33’s on my MJ I had a stock box rebuilt by PSC. About the same quality as redhead gears. Also ran a psc stock style pump. Worked great for onroad with occasional wheeling. I like plenty of steering feedback though. If you want more effortless steering, go with the psc big bore or a redneck ram setup. For tight and precise steering though, the number one improvement was to run the ironman track bar and steering brace setup. Once that was dialed in just right, it’s as close to rack and pinion steering as I’ve ever felt in a Jeep. And that was 6” of lift on 33’s.

The factory control arms are an “elegant” design. Able to flex and be light weight. But at 3” and with larger tires tire clearance and CA angles become somewhat of an issue. IMO the WJ arms don’t flex as well as they simply were not designed the same. I’d go with just some adjustable control arms with good joints so you can get your alignment back in spec. Many good options: Core, Metal Cloak and Currie (RockJock) all come to mind. But, if you could get away with adjusting your wheel stops or possibly even running a high quality wheel spacer to clear those 31’s on stock control arms, that may also be a viable solution. WJ arms do have their applications though

Looking for a pair of oem fenders and grill from a 97-01 XJ. Will also take washer bottle, splash shields and fender braces. LMK what you have.

Here is my take on it though I may be off . The charcoal “activation” creates tiny pores to increase surface area. VOC’s get trapped inside those tiny pockets. The engine then pulls fresh air through the replaceable filter on the bottom and extracts the VOC’s out of the charcoal and into the intake manifold. So the way I see it, the charcoal is not actually serving as a filter, more like a reservoir for VOC’s. If the activated charcoal was actually performing a filter function, then it would need to be replaced very frequently. But by design, the only replaceable item is the bottom air filter. Now if the charcoal inside becomes dirty and clogs the pores of the charcoal (perhaps from a dirty air filter or muddy water intrusion) then it wouldn’t work correctly anymore. But if maintained properly by replacing the filter and ensuring engine vacuum is always present, I can’t see why it wouldn’t last as long as the vehicle. Again, my theory is based on the idea that the activated charcoal is serving more as a collecting medium vs a filtration system.

Fun little project. These head units look clean in TJ’s

Awesome! Thanks