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Only two reliable options as mentioned above is get a decent junkyard engine or rebuild one yourself. If I was buying a stroker engine though, I would take a closer look at newcomer racing engines

A seal can be installed carefully in that area. Some even install two. There’s not an issue really with the seal moving down the tube as it press fits into it but it can be a challenge to get it perfectly square and set it correctly without damaging it. As for outing a seal further down the tube, the axle shaft itself isn’t machined smooth in that area and can tear up a seal. There is no outer seal on a dana 30 front axle. Some install tube seals near the end but it has been proven many times now that they will do nothing to prevent oil from leaking if used an oil seals. Not to mention, the diff just wasn’t designed to slosh volumes of oil down those tubes like most rear axles are. Plus there is a bit of axle shaft deflection when turning near the end of the tube which would ruin a traditional oil seal. There is a perfect solution for this situation though. Seals-it economy axle tube seals. They fit the ID of the tube and the OD of the axle shaft. They are a double lipped seal and work great. Takes all of 2 minutes to install and doesn’t require any machined surface as it squeezes into the tube itself. Automatically squares itself by design

Set aside a good budget for getting a v8 into an XJ/MJ. The cost of the engine itself is almost inconsequential compared to all the other parts you need. That being said, there are plenty of non LS engine swaps in the epic tech. But yes, most will be LS as they are a more viable swap candidate for most builds.

Have you tried running some seafoam through the oil?

And I would be buying the LJ

Timken has been the gold standard for many years, it’s maybe the past 3 that’s it’s been sporadic

If you want to do a full rebuilt these are really good kits: https://www.revolutiongear.com/product/dana_35_master_rebuild_kit_revolution_gear But you may be able to just do a carrier bearing swap. On the D35, the shims should be under the bearings which is a bit easier to work with. Anymore, I’ve been going with Koyo bearings. They are made in Japan and the quality have been consistent. Timken and National have been all over the place in terms of quality. Koyo tends to be just a few bucks cheaper but I’d actually put their quality over that of recent batches of Timkens I’ve seen.

Gotcha, makes sense. Any shims under the passenger side carrier bearing?

They’re great headliners, just take it out of the box and let it rest for a day or two before install to regain its shape

Yes the rebuild kits are the same. Just where exactly are you seeing the play? If the pinion is held to prevent movement and the wheels are off the ground, there should be some play if you rotate the ring gear in each direction, that’s your backlash and is set by shimming the carrier towards the pinion. Or are you referring to the spider gears inside the carrier?

Those are roll over style crimps. Grab that painless 70900 tool. Decent tool for the price and will take care of those for you. https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/70900

Yep that should work

Are you referring to the connections in the power distribution center by the radiator overflow bottle? If so, most of those are a roll over style crimper. I bought a ratcheting crimper with interchangeable dies but they are pricey. If it’s just a small job, the Painless 70900 crimper works well enough. There are other members here though that can probably suggest better options. Can you post of picture of the connector you’re trying to crimp to verify the type needed?

If the test above checks out, try checking the bulb sockets, and use new bulbs even if they look good.

If the 96 D30 is from an XJ it will fit. Just keep in mind that your front driveshaft will now be spinning constantly due to the lack of an axle disconnect. That’s typically not an issue but may reveal an unbalanced front driveshaft and or a bad transfer case front output bearing.

First off, it’s CR Laurence . I have two of the sms headliners. The first one was in an original rear slider and latter a CR Laurence dual pane slider. The new one is also on a dual pane CR Laurence. The fit is great. First headliner was from 2017 and the second was just this last year. I can’t see any reason to adjust the headliner as it fits factory and aftermarket windows just fine imo.

This may be helpful in determining how to upgrade your brakes:

Checkout the epic threads. Many V8s stuck in there. Hood clearance is a challenge with tbi or carb.

Guys, cry once and get that seals-it seal. No special tools and a far better seal.

, “island hacks”. Whatever works

Diesel also works great

No need to trim that sealant. It fits inside the tube itself though it’s not a great fit as that surface was never machined to fit a seal. If you have a few more days to take another approach, get a seals-it inner axle tube seal. Far easier to install and much less likely to leak. These, just find the right size od and id: https://sealsit.com/product/economy-axle-seal/

A long soak in diesel worked really well for the ones in my truck

Not the latest versions, they are out of stock. Good info here on some options though:

There was an aftermarket version of these available until maybe a couple of years ago. It was just some stock rubber material with that bend and some double sided adhesive tape. Worked well enough. Surely someone can find a similar piece of rubber stock