ghetdjc320

I swear my drivers door is short by 3/16”. I have a good stack of shims to work with but haven’t been able to get down to less than 1/4” gap all around. Passenger side I got 5/32-3/16 all around. Drivers side is 3/16-1/4 all over. I’d like to get no more than 3/16 everywhere but am having to settle for just a good seal all around the door. I may play with it some more though as I have a nice stack of oem shims to use.

Restored wipers installed

Had to modify the door strikers and remove the captured thick washer. The thickness of the striker reinforcement plates I added was just as thick as the captured washer so the striker was sitting too far out. Works perfectly now.

More alignment in progress

Didn’t take a picture of it but I also replaced the horn contact button in the column and reassembled it all. I’d like to still find the “anti-theft” plate that goes over the lock plate in the column though.

Tailgate body work complete and all imperfections gone now. Aligned the axle to the chasis today. For future reference, the centerline of the XJ D30R is noted in the pic below. Starting with the lower control arms at 16” and the uppers at 15”. I’m at about 8* of caster now which is quite nice. Front suspension is coming along nicely. NOS HD sway bar is up next. Been pretty pleased with all the BDS products I’ve installed so far.

Worked on the passenger door today and getting it aligned before reassembling all the hardware. Also working on all the interior plastics and getting them ready to reassemble. If anyone has any good tips for realigning MJ doors please let me know. It’s a tough process making sure that the seal all around the door is compressed equally for a quiet and sealed ride. Will be working on the steering and front suspension soon to get it all lined up. Hope to crank the engine over and fire it up before too long

Then your booster should be working properly. When you feel the “pressure come back up” that’s because the booster is no longer assisting the pedal effort and you’re back to manual brakes. Pete said the booster fixed his issue . I could see you needing to replace the master cylinder though.

When the shackle isn’t inverted, what is the distance eye-to-eye?

I had the mishimoto and didn’t have an fitment issues even with my HD clutch but I’ve heard it not working for some. Although your fan clutch looks different than mine did. Mine didn’t have those “tabs” sticking out. I’ve come to believe that fluid capacity is key with these radiators. I’d be curious to see a fluid capacity comparison on the various models.

There is a check valve in the booster that should hold at least one full pedal assist pump after the engine is off. Try starting the engine, let it run at idle for just a bit then shut it off (don’t touch the brake pedal during this time). Give it about a minute then try pushing the brake pedal. This will tell you if the booster is still holding vacuum as intended.

The booster is just a pedal assist so it sounds like that is working great as it only worked when engine vacuum is present. I’d troubleshoot elsewhere in the hydraulic system. Start by examining carefully for any brake fluid leaks. How is the fluid level in the master? Did it ever run low or even dry?

Sounds like a good plan. Could possibly be sediment in the tank plugging the strainer. Id replace the pump as well. Refill with fresh gas then run it for a bit and report back

Does it suddenly start running rough or is it gradual? Is the fuel tank completely full? Have you pulled the pump to inspect the strainer?

Not a bad idea to check you engine vacuum at idle once it’s warmed up and see if you can track down a leak. I also wouldn’t rule out the pump.

Is it two days of consistent use or two days of sitting? I’m assuming it’s the 89 in your signature but just to be sure, what year and engine?

I eliminated those seams after doing the repair work in them. Once you have it all fixed, use some decent 3m or sem medium-bodied 2 part seam sealer in those lower window frame corners. I’ll try to add some pics to what I did on my current build also.

It’s the only way to really get in there and fix it. You likely find a lot more rust hiding inside that seam eating away at things.

It’s mostly from the outside of the truck. If you follow the vertical pinch seam down the corners below the glass, is there any evidence of rust, paint bubbling or water damage?

Alright, time to finish this project. May need some input on some items along the way. Just dropped off the tailgate to finish up the body work on it as I ran out of time to do that myself and have 36 circuits plus and engine harness to wire in lol. Also dropped off my mini overhead XJ console and a pair of oem door panels. The shop is going to make me some new door panels and eliminate the window crank handle, square the speaker opening to un-shroud the door speaker and delete the carpet “pocket” on the panels. The new ones will be made out of 1/8” birch. They’ll probably be keeping the original stitching and foam insert designs but may take some style cues from my Corbeau seats. Will be updating this thread pretty fast moving forward now.

No need to worry about the outer trim piece. It’s really just decorative. The trick is keeping water from pooling in the lower corners where the body seams are. Just like the windshield frame, there are seams in all the corners and the factory single stage seam sealer tends to deteriorate. Then you have a slow weeping leak.

No worries

Keep in mind that there are body seams in all 4 corners of the windshield frame. I’ve come to suspect every single body seam on these trucks as a possible leak point.

Can’t see the pics

Haven’t started the batch yet so I’ll add you on. Going to be closing this round in a few days though.